Ian Hoare wrote:

>>Absolutely. Tannin and fat mix to form a nasty powdery sensation on the
>>palate, and there is no acidity to cut through all that fat. And Cahors
>>is about the most tannic thing you can uncork, the very WORST wine you
>>could ever open with pork roast. So far I follow.
>
>
> Ah but that's not at all what I was thinking of. I must say I don't agree
> with you over the fat business. My thought was that pork is actually quite a
> delicate meat - when compared with lamb or beef or even a duck confit.

You echo my own thoughts, Ian. I have always considered tannins to be
an asset when pairing fatty meats. That's why young Cabernet Sauvignon
works so well with grilled steaks, especially rare ones that haven't had
all their fat rendered. For my part, I've tested various wines with my
cassoulets and found that, yes, Cru Beaujolais and Aussie Shiraz are
passable (a 3 on the Hoare scale and incidentally two wines recommended
by H. Johnson for this purpose) but Madiran is a solid 4. I haven't
tried _young_ Madiran, but I suspect that, within reason, it would pair
reasonably well, too.

I've heard it rationalized that the astringent nature of younger tannins
is also what's reponsible for the affinity for fats: the polyphenols of
the tannin molecules actually bind the fats and help remove them from
the surface of the tongue, thereby cleansing the palate, if not the
bloodstream ;-)

So a
> light, delicate meat, matched against a big bruising tannic wine will be
> swamped by it in my view. Same would go for a chickum. I also can't agree
> that they are lacking in acidity. That said I know that you like wines with
> much higher levels of acidity than I do, so this might be part of the reason
> behind our differences.

Yes, roast pork to me calls for a powerhouse white or rosé. A lighter
Beaujolais might also work well with it, but then again I'll drink a
good Bojo with many different foods.


>
> Well you know, it's not because it's traditional that I do it, but because
> in my book it's good. Cassoulet, no matter whether it be from Carcassonne,
> Castelnaudary or Toulouse, is very powerful in flavour - when I make it it's
> not too fatty, as I cook out much of the fat from the salt belly and make my
> own sausages with about 25-35% only. And then I drain off excess fat before
> assembling the dish.

Hey! I thought that you didn't have a traditional cassoulet recipe...
Acquired one since 23 Jan 2003? <poke poke>

Bon apetit yourself,
Mark Lipton

(currently researching coq au vin recipes for a Fête de Bourgogne
planned for this weekend -- 3 '88 GCs on deck)

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