Victor Sack wrote:
>
> Bringing Champagne down to earth
> By Eric Asimov
>
> Perhaps the most unusual of his Champagnes is Substance, made from a
> single chardonnay vineyard in Avize. It uses a solera system, similar to
> what is used to make sherry, in which successive vintages, back to 1987,
> are blended. The result is an almost ethereal Champagne, with aromas of
> flowers and seashells.
>
> Rather than obscuring the terroir, Selosse asserts, the blending of his
> solera Champagne emphasizes the qualities of the vineyard by eliminating
> variables like weather.
>
> "It takes all the different years - the good, the bad, the wet, the dry,
> the sunny - and neutralizes the elements to bring out the terroir," he
> said.
>
> I asked him whether he would ever suggest this method to his friends in
> Burgundy, where it would be looked on as heretical.
>
> "No," he said. "In Burgundy they already understand the terroir - it
> rises above the vintage." He looked thoughtful for a moment. "Maybe in
> Bordeaux."

That makes a lot of sense. In some years, certain flavor components
may be emphasized and others disappear, due to drought, insect attack,
fungal attack, etc. Combining different vintages of the same vines
would give you a more well-rounded result, without introducing
additional flavors that would make it too complex. You'd be averaging
all of the flavors the vine was capable of producing.

I wonder why that isn't usually done? I suppose it may be for the
same reason automakers introduce new models every year. It creates
excitement over the differences from year to year. It creates new
marketing opportunities, because each year is a separate product,
and sometimes they are very different.

If multiple years were blended, you might have a better product
and certainly more consistent. This can be done at home, if you
blend different vintages of the same wine (from the same vines,
of course). I wonder why that isn't usually done?