On Sun 02 Aug 2009 12:34:46p, Harlett O'Dowd told us...

> I'm pretty good at desserts, but custards still vex me.
>
> Maybe there's a trick I'm not getting, or my definition of, say, boil,
> is different than what the cookbook is telling me.
>
> For instance, yesterday I made a dacquoise. For the most part, it came
> out very well, but I think I can do better on the custard part.
>
> Here's the pertinent part of the recipe:
> _________________________
>
> 1. bring 2 cups half-and-half just to a boil in a large saucepan over
> medium heat, then turn off the heat, reserve.
>
> 2. in a mixer, whip 8 yolks, 1 tsp vanilla and 1/2 cup granulated
> sugar for about 4 minutes. when you lift the mixer blade, the mixture
> should form a thick ribbon. slowly mix in 1/2 cup all purpose flour
> until well combined.
>
> (me - I've learned that when the mixer is done to get a spatula and
> ensure that all of the flower has been well incorporated. Sometimes
> the beater forces some flour to the bottom or side and makes a kind of
> sludge.)
>
> 3. add 1 cup of the hot half-and-half to the bowl and mix well.
>
> 4. turn the heat to medium again under the pan of half-and half.
> Showly, mixing constantly, pour the yolk mixture into the saucepan.
> Bring just to a boil, stirring the entire time. Reduce the heat to low
> and simmer for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Allow to cool.
> Pour into abowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready
> to use.
>
> _________________________
>
>
> Maybe the book's concept of boil on point 4 is different than mine,
> but to me, it seems to congeal long before it comes to what I consider
> a boil. I've tried whipping it with a whisk rather than use a spoon,
> but I find too much sticks to the corners or the pan and begins to
> become something close to scrambled eggs.
>
> Should the H&H mixture be closer to a boil before I start pouring in
> the yolk mixture? (generally I boil the H&H first, take it off the
> heat and cover it, then prepare the yolks and temper the yolks with
> the H&H and THEN turn on the stove again. So, usually, 15 or so
> minutes have passed since the H&H was on the flame.)
>
> Anyone else have any secrets of the custard trade?
>
> For the record, my custards almost always taste good, and rarely
> curdle, but it's usually a bit lumpy and I know I can do better.
>
> Many thanks!
>
> PS - btw, apart from cooking the egg yolks, why does one want to boil
> milk/cream/H&H in custards and other simialr desserts? What chemical
> process occurs that aids in the cooking that you wouldn't have if you
> just used cold dairy?
>
>

First off, if I were making a custard I would be using cornstarch
(cornflour), not all-purpose flour. For the volume of cream, egg yolks,
and sugar, 1/2 cup all-purpose flour seems excessive, which could certainly
account for the premature thickening/clumping of the mixture.

AFAIC, this is not a particularly good recipe.

--
Wayne Boatwright
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There is no love sincerer than the love of food. George Bernard
Shaw, "The Revolutionist's Handbook," Man and Superman