On Sun, 2 Aug 2009 12:34:46 -0700 (PDT), "Harlett O'Dowd"
> wrote:

>I'm pretty good at desserts, but custards still vex me.
>
>Maybe there's a trick I'm not getting, or my definition of, say, boil,
>is different than what the cookbook is telling me.
>
>For instance, yesterday I made a dacquoise. For the most part, it came
>out very well, but I think I can do better on the custard part.
>
>Here's the pertinent part of the recipe:
>_________________________
>
>1. bring 2 cups half-and-half just to a boil in a large saucepan over
>medium heat, then turn off the heat, reserve.
>
>2. in a mixer, whip 8 yolks, 1 tsp vanilla and 1/2 cup granulated
>sugar for about 4 minutes. when you lift the mixer blade, the mixture
>should form a thick ribbon. slowly mix in 1/2 cup all purpose flour
>until well combined.
>
>(me - I've learned that when the mixer is done to get a spatula and
>ensure that all of the flower has been well incorporated. Sometimes
>the beater forces some flour to the bottom or side and makes a kind of
>sludge.)
>
>3. add 1 cup of the hot half-and-half to the bowl and mix well.
>
>4. turn the heat to medium again under the pan of half-and half.
>Showly, mixing constantly, pour the yolk mixture into the saucepan.
>Bring just to a boil, stirring the entire time. Reduce the heat to low
>and simmer for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Allow to cool.
>Pour into abowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready
>to use.
>
>_________________________
>
>
>Maybe the book's concept of boil on point 4 is different than mine,
>but to me, it seems to congeal long before it comes to what I consider
>a boil. I've tried whipping it with a whisk rather than use a spoon,
>but I find too much sticks to the corners or the pan and begins to
>become something close to scrambled eggs.
>
>Should the H&H mixture be closer to a boil before I start pouring in
>the yolk mixture? (generally I boil the H&H first, take it off the
>heat and cover it, then prepare the yolks and temper the yolks with
>the H&H and THEN turn on the stove again. So, usually, 15 or so
>minutes have passed since the H&H was on the flame.)
>
>Anyone else have any secrets of the custard trade?
>
>For the record, my custards almost always taste good, and rarely
>curdle, but it's usually a bit lumpy and I know I can do better.
>
>Many thanks!
>
>PS - btw, apart from cooking the egg yolks, why does one want to boil
>milk/cream/H&H in custards and other simialr desserts? What chemical
>process occurs that aids in the cooking that you wouldn't have if you
>just used cold dairy?

The custard is done when it's the right consistency... overcook it and
you'll just get a mess. I must admit to never having made an actual
egg custard - I use custard powder or cornstarch... but whatever the
setting medium, custard does not always act the same way when you cook
it up. The custard is boiled to set it up and when it's set it's done.