Mark hosted SOBER last night, and did his usual wonderful job with
both the wine and the food. As I arrived Nancy poured me a glass of
sparking wine, blind. Nice yeasty nose, biscuits, chalk. Mark came
into the room and asked "did you guess it yet." I thought maybe he
meant it was something I had tasted recently, went through my recent
bubblies, nose rang no bell. I took a sip and was pretty sure nothing
I'd tasted recently- appley fruit with a mature edge, hint of lemon
polish, reasonably long. Turns out it was something I'd never tasted
before, the 2001 Nyetimber (Sussex, England). Others (more
experienced than I with Champagne) liked it more. B-

There was another bubbly, but Mark wisely decided we had too much
wine. We met our visitors, Adrian Bridge of Fladgate Group as well as
Bob from the city, and moved to table. Nice cheeses, a D'Artagnan
mousse, a platter of proscuitto and mozzarella, etc. On to the wines,
all blind:

Flight 2 ** (numbered before decision to not make the bubblies a
flight)

2A: Sweet floral nose, but fairly dry on palate. A lanolin note made
me wonder briefly about Chenin Blanc, but it didn't have the acids.
There is a bit of muskiness florality, and once someone said Gewurz it
made sense. 1983 Zind-Humbrecht* "Herrenweg de Turkheim"
Gewurztraminer. B
(I think this is my first non-dessert ZH of the pre-Olivier era)
*
2B: One whiff and I wrote heavily oxidized nose. Just oxidative notes
and alcohol. Nice initial mouthfeel, but that seems to crack up
quickly. Not a correct bottle, too bad. 1983 Trimbach "Cuvee Frederic
Emile" Riesling.
(C-, but others assured me there are live bottles out there)

Flight 3 - both marked by a light gold meets orange color, Gilman says
Italian and maybe raised in amphora in about 2 sniffs, bingo

3A: Light, fresh, orange peel, citrus and almond. Lively, good length,
I really like (more than table as whole I think). 2000 Gravner Ribolla
Gialla (Venezia Giulia) A-/B+
*
3B : Similar flavor profile- orange zest, nuts, seems abit less fresh
and lower acidity. 2002 Gravner "Anfora" Ribolla Gialla (Venezia
Giulia)
B


Flight 5 (moved ahead so that 4 could go with cassoulet)

5A- older color, light around edges. Cherries, tar, leather, citrus
zest. I was pretty locked on idea of 40 year old Barolo (No!). I
really quite liked, but with shocked when the 1990 Prieure-Roch Clos
de Vougeot was unveiled. Not so much it was Burgundy, but that it was
a 1990. I'd call quite atypical in its delicacy. B+

5B: this was clearer fuller and heavier (and I thought clearly younger
while both were blind_, but tight and not giving up much, a bit of
black cherry and earth. Mark saved a glass and it opened up after a
while. 1990 Jadot Clos De Vougeot (B while we tasted, probably would
have scored higher after some air time).
**
With a very tasty cassoulet (my 3rd cassoulet in 10 days,but I could
eat every other day!) Flight 4 :

4A: I wrote Rhone on first whiff of nose, but honestly I was thinking
south. I have to give Gilman credit, he called Cote Rotie in about 10
seconds. Once that was confirmed, it fell into place. Red and black
fruit, herbs, olives. Drinking wonderfully now. 1990 Jamet Cote Rotie
A/A-

4B: Big, young, smoke, peppery. On this night I preferred the 1990 by
a hair, but this is the long distance runner. 1991 Jamet Cote Rotie
A-
*
Flight 6
6A: Couple of whiffs and I wrote Bordeaux, but when someone said Monte
Bello it sounded reasonable. Once Mark said no to that, I ventured
Bordeaux, and it was confirmed. Black currants, floral, cedar, a
little leathery (brett?) note. Cathleen found it herbaceous, I thought
just a lovely hint of herbs. I guessed Margaux, and then Rausan Segla
(my only good guesses of night), Gilman got vintage. 1986 Ch. Rausan
Segla. A-

6B: Bigger, tight, black plums and some oaky notes. Some found the oak
obtrusive, I just thought it was young. This was a table divider. 1986
Ch. Margaux. B+ with much room to improve fro me
*
Next flight had one disclosed bottle and one blind:
1908 Cockburn Vintage Port - light color, fragrant, caramel meets
cherries, beautifully lifted nose, Christmas spices. What a treat! A-

The blind bottle was golden brown, with a thick consistency and a
complex blend of raisins, dried currants, brown sugar, spices,and
herbs. Dan said Madiera, and that seemed perfect guess to me. It was
however port. The
1908 Taylor Colheita tawny. This is not a commercial bottling, but a
bottle they had drawn last week from a barrel they use to blend into
the 40 year old tawny. A unique and fantastic experience, thanks to
Adrian.

Ferris Tintilla di Rota Sherry
I think this was NV, though I also think Mark said this was supposed
to be 1945. Dark, toffee and caramel, nutty. Mark said this was fading
a bit compared to early bottles. Fascinating, but I didn't find near
as pleasurable as the ports. B

Truly remarkable night, thanks to Mark for his hospitality and
generosity, and to Adrian for the chance to taste a 101 year old
tawny.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an
excellent*wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I
wouldn't*drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I
offer no*promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of
consistency.**