On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 10:49:53 -0400, "Nancy Young"
> wrote:

>brooklyn1 wrote:
>> "Nancy Young" wrote:
>
>>> There are parts that need to be kept oiled or they will rust.
>>> With my previous grinder I made the mistake of using vegetable
>>> oil. I knew it was wrong but I had to do something.
>
>> Nothing wrong with vegetable oil on the carbon steel plate/blade.
>
>You know, it got gunky. I thought it might, and I wasn't disappointed.

Probably too much oil. Only needs a drop or three, rub on with
fingers, blot off all excess with a paper towel... should only be a
micro coat... pretend it's your most pricey cleavage parfume.

>> I
>> don't bother oiling those parts, just be sure all parts are dry/clean
>> before reassembling/storing. The easiest way to clear meat, wet/oily
>> ingredients from the plate and other parts is at the end to pass
>> through a hunk of dry bread/a few saltines (often that can be used in
>> a recipe anyway - meataballes, meataloaf). Then simply hand wash all
>> parts in ordinary dishwashing liquid... never place aluminum in
>> dishwasher. For the obsessive compulsives every hardware store sells
>> small diameter wire brushes of stainless steel/brass for passing
>> through grinder plate holes... but a short soak in hot soapy water and
>> a good rinse has always worked well for me. There are special food
>> safe silicone greases for long term storage but if you use your
>> grinder regularly those parts won't rust in the typical home kitchen.
>> I have extra carbon steel plates/blades sitting in my pantry
>> unused/unoiled for many years and not a speck of rust... I have a
>> second grinder that hasn't been used in a few years and no rust. Of
>> course a lot depends on your climate and the humidity in your home.
>
>Okay, I appreciate the advice. Push comes to shove, I'm sure I could
>just order a new plate.

I doubt you will ever need any new plate/blade due to rust, they are
self sharpening and polish each other when in use. You can buy
stainless steel plates and blades but they are intended for commercial
use, they are supposed to steam clean their machines. The stainless
steel parts are not self sharpening (they are relatively soft so by
rubbing upon each other they tend to gall) and are never as sharp as
standard hardened tool steel parts right out of the box. If one
wanted, with hardened tool steel plates, they could polish the I.D. of
each hole, they are typically pretty rough as they come from the heat
treater, only the two faces are ground... there are several methods
for internal polishing/smoothing, none of which it really pays to do
unless one has free accesses to a machine shop... you'd need a low
speed drill press or vertical mill, a suitable vice, a solid carbide
or adjustable carbide reamer, and skilled hands. But it's really
unnecessary to polish inside those holes, in fact the heat treating
scale helps protect from rust.