TN: wines and food, some good matches, some bad
The pianist from Betsy's piano trio was in town for rehearsals, and staying at
our place. Betsy took her to the large local Oriental market, and they came
back Monday and made dinner. First course was bok choy/tofu/miso napoleans,
from a recipe by Ming Tsai (actually for spinach not bok choy). Every time
Betsy makes this, I note that Ming calls for a match with a sparkling Chenin,
and regret that the '98 Huet petillants are tucked away (non-home storage). But
this time I remembered my latest haul from Chambers Street was downstairs, and
it included a 1996 F. Pinon Vouvray Sec petillant. I had grabbed this because
Betsy had really liked at a offline potluck. Give Ming points for the match, it
really was good. The Vouvray was just lightly sparkling,with baked apple fruit,
some citrus, flowers, and a tangy finish. B+
Main course was pad thai, accompanied by green beans with those little brown
mushrooms whose name I can never remember. Time for the 2002 Willi Schaefer
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Qba. Bright and light, citrus fruit with a touch
of something darker -black cherry? Nice crisp food-friendly quaffer, the light
sweetness takes the bite out of the spicy pad thai (I hate it when people make
pad thai a really sweet dish, I prefer it a tad spicy). Nice wine B/B+
Tuesday was also from the Chinese grocery, we started with lobster ball soup (
with a little sambal olek & cilantro). Neither the Vouvray nor the Riesling was
a perfect match, but I can't imagine what would be. The main course was roast
chicken, and I had a Burgundy for that, the 2001 Dom. Jean Michelot Pommard.
Bad choice, as I hadn't paid much attention to Betsy's description of the
chicken (had lemon zest/creme fraiche sauce). OK, so this wasn't my night for
wine-food matching. Aside from the food, the Pommard had some simple
cherry/raspberry fruit, pleasant hint of earth, but with a somewhat clipped
finish. I wouldn't buy more, though it's not horrible, and was something like
$12 (which should have been a warning, I think). B-
Over a couple of nights while sitting around talking we also consumed a bottle
of the 2003 Babich Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Intense ripe gooseberry nose
with a little herb, tasty. OK acidity, but I think this vintage might be more
of a stand-alone wine than super food-friendly. B/B+
Barbara headed back to NC, and Betsy made lamb shanks with white beans
Wednesday. I thought I had a bottle of Brunello at home, but I wrong, and
didn't feel like driving to office storage to get it. So opened a 1996 Potensac
(Medoc). Dark color, slightly muted nose of black plum and blackcurrant. Fair
amount of smoky oak, lots of ripe tannins. Seen a lot of notes plugging this as
"drink now", but to me seemed to need a couple more years. Opened up by the
next night, showed better, with some spicy notes and earth. B+ (A- for value,
$16 at PJs a year or so ago).
Thursday another incredble cold wave was moving in, and I was pretty drained
when I got in from work. Betsy said she was making puttanesca, which is about
to hard to match as anything (any ideas, folks?). So decided to just have some
white beforehand, with seltzer with dinner. The white was the 1995 Domaine
Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc. I had just picked these up at $10 at Rochambeau's
closeout sale, and wasn't sure how they had held up. Hey,this is seriously nice
Chardonnay. A very slight nutty nuance makes me wonder if oxidation is
beginning to show, but clear pure apple and pear fruit is overlaid with touches
of honey and smoke. Not to be help, but lots of drinking pleasure right now.
B++
My usual disclaimer: I'm a pretty easy grader, basically A is a very good wine,
B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party
where it was only choice
Dale
Dale Williams
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