TN: Great Burgs, Bubbles, Nebbiolo, Rhones w/SOBER
John hosted SOBER last night, and put out a spectacular array of
wines. We arrived to platters of cheeses (the St. Marcellin and Delice
de Bourgogne were especially good examples), pate, and olives. He
started us with 2 non-blind Champagnes
2002 Camille Saves Brut Champagne (Bouzy)
Big, fresh, apple with a nice touch of bitter grapefruit peel, baked
bread, full-bodied. A-
2004 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose
Young, tight, not showing a lot right now. Cherry pie and yeast, but
muted. A few who saved said it really opened up. For now, B
On to the blind wines
Red Flight #1
#1- nice complex nose, with dark fruit, tobacco, bacon fat, earth. At
first I thought Bordeaux with the tobacco, but once someone said
Northern Rhone it seemed clear. Mark got Hermitage, and La Chapelle
fairly quickly. I really liked this. 1988 Jaboulet "La Chapelle"
Hermitage. A-/B+
#2- a bit lifted, something a little off on nose, but not corked.
Medium body, redder fruits, shorter than its flightmate. 1983 Jaboulet
"La Chapelle" Hermitage. B-
Red Flight #2
#1 a bit of brett (some found too much), horsey, dark plum and cherry
fruit, earth. Not bad at all, but suffered in comparison to
flightmate. Consensus of more experienced Burgheads was it needed
time. 1985 Georges Mugneret Echezeaux. B/B+
#2- Wow, great nose, perfumey (someone said "Chave-like"), complex,
red fruits, earth. Sweet and full. I was thinking Northern Rhone again
but Dan got Burgundy. I think he then guessed Clos Vougeot, John said
next door, he got Echezeaux. No one guessed producer, as no one had
ever heard of before. 1966 Echezeaux from Lamadon (or Lamandon, I
can't read my scribbles, even though I made a special effort to read
the name). A-/A
White Flight (with a delicious tomato, olive, and onion tart)
This was clearly Riesling, but much debate about from where. I thought
either Alsace or Austria, and came down in latter camp. I was thinking
#2 was something like late 90s Smaragd, maybe a Hirtzberger
Singerriedel or a top Knoll. But Andy guessed late 80s Alsace, bingo.
#1 -light petrol, medium body, citrus, saline. 1989 Trimbach "Cuvee
Frederic Emile" B/B+
#2- big, herby, rich, minerally, absolutely lovely. 1990 Trimbach Clos
Ste. Hune. A-
Red Flight #3 (with osso buco)
#1 Some quick calls of Piedmont. Sweet full red fruit, tar, smoke,
mushrooms. Nice length, balanced and ready. 1979 Produttori de
Barbaresco "Ovello" Barbaresco Riserva. A-/B+
#2 very advanced, some definite maderization (others didn't think so),
rich red fruit underneath, funk. John said this had a problem cork.
1970 Rinaldi Barbaresco C+
Red Flight #4
#1 Full, rich, excellent length. Someone (Mark) gets Giacosa quickly,
but no one gets vineyard, as no one knew of Giacosa having produced
this.
1971 Giacosa "Montefico" Barbaresco . A-/A
#2 Soy, black cherry, earth. Really nice! We got vintage with a Walrus
clue from John (koo koo ca choo). 1967 Marcarini "Brunate" Barolo A-
Quite a night, thanks John!
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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