open barrel fermentation? (pretty long)
Forgot to mention 2.
Domaine La Roche Buissiere, another organic producer who also has a wine
bar in Faucon. Haven't been but the parking lot is usually full. 3
well made CdRs with honest fruit but quite expensive relatively.
Domaine Puy de Maupas, got a coup de coeur from Guide Hachette for the
top cuvee, which I didn't like that much, but the basic CdR was a well
made summer quaff at a very good price. Also a good rose.
-E
On 07/26/2011 07:22 PM, Emery Davis wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Back from a very short week in the southern Rhone valley. Not at all a
> wine-oriented trip, but a few comments to report. We stayed local to
> our Baronnies/Ouveze base, so really any wine was from the Puymeras
> area. There was a fete in Mollans with quite a few of the locals giving
> tastings (and lots of swilling going on).
>
> Mainly left with an impression that this area is moving heavily into
> organic farming or "agriculture raisonnee" at the very least; only a few
> of the old school bulk folks seemed to be doing the full treatment. Use
> of sulfites also seems down.
>
> Here are the ones that impressed.
>
> We did a large tasting at Dom du Faucon Dore and had the chance to spend
> time with Damien Beaumont who is the heir apparent and I think driving
> force behind the philosophy. These guys are pretty crazy, with yields
> below 20 hl/ha and sometimes approaching 10, all manual methods, some
> very long barrel times (IIRC the longest is 38 months sur lie) but the
> wines are very pure and clean, many monocepage cuvees. The alcohol
> level is very high but the wines are never hot or jammy, or over
> concentrated. The domaine has completed the transition to biodynamic
> and been Demeter certified, not because of any anthroposophist bent but
> in a further search for quality. Sulfite levels are between 15-60
> depending on the cuvee. No bad wines and some very good indeed, in
> particular the Authentique Grenache, 100 yr old vines with 12 hl yields,
> 18 months in old oak has made fine progress with a few tweaks in the
> cellar. They are making a couple of wines called "200%" which have 18
> months in new oak followed by 18 more in old barrels. These have gotten
> relatively pricey and are not frankly to my taste, but I fear may get
> them "discovered" as they are very much styled to please the new world
> palate, and Damien has a mind towards marketing (unlike his parents). I
> wish them all the luck, but they will need to get quantities up to make
> any money. Still, the world needs dreamers!
>
> Another dreamer we met briefly was Elodie Aubert, the young owner of
> Clos des Cimes in Merindol les Oliviers. Her wines are made with no
> sulfites added at all (to reds)... and although she has no certification
> (doesn't believe in labels, etc) this is as close to fully organic wine
> as you can get. The flagship spends 37 months in open topped barrels,
> fully exposed. I've never heard of this technique, does anyone else do
> it? In spite of this the wines are very clean with no sign of
> oxidization. Someone to watch.
>
> Good organic work happening at Les Usseaux, 2 very clean and well
> structured CdRs (2009), we even bought a few bottles.
>
> Domaine des Arches, an organic farm stand (farm really) we have
> frequented for vegetables for years, won a silver medal for their CdR at
> Orange (pretty good medal). It had good ripe grenache fruit with very
> feminine structure, an excellent summer quaff. No idea if it gets sent
> anywhere but worth a stop if you're in the area and like that style, on
> the road between Mirabel and Nyons. (Great fruit and veg, too).
>
> An excellent very peppery CdR from Alain Sorbier at Domaine de la
> Tuyere, raised in 3 yr old oak. Sadly his traditional CdR was sold out,
> but we were delighted to learn he delivers to Paris twice a year, and
> will certainly be ordering that way. The "fut de chene" was a steal at
> 5.20 EU.
>
> A fine tasting from Mme Sauvan of Domaine de Combebelle with a good
> range of well built CdRs. They do the Caves Particuliers wine show in
> the spring, so planning on talking with them again there.
>
> Also tasted the range from Mas des Collines, a tasty if unremarkable
> Gigondas, classic grenache profile. Didn't care much for the Vacqueyras.
>
> cheers,
>
> -E
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