On Oct 17, 12:13*pm, zxcvbob > wrote:
> Cheryl wrote:
> > On 10/16/2011 2:19 PM, Lou Decruss wrote:
> >> On Sun, 16 Oct 2011 13:47:15 -0400, >
> >> wrote:
>
> >>> On 10/15/2011 12:03 PM, ImStillMags wrote:
>
> >>>> How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. * *Why can't
> >>>> it be used to hardwire the new stove?
> >>>> Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
> >>>> use it for the new one.
> >>>> Problem solved.
>
> >>> The old wire coming out of the wall is split into three; two 120v and
> >>> one ground. *The oven requires 4 wires.
>
> > I honestly have no idea. *I guess the receptacle box converts it.
>
> I know this is a little late, but the oven probably does NOT require 4
> wires. *It should have 2 different cords available and a little
> grounding jumper in the wiring box to remove if you uses a 4-wire cord
> or add for a 3-wire.
>
> Four wires is better. *The 3-wire hookup is not legal if installed in
> a mobile home or if the circuit breakers for the stove are in a
> subpanel (rather than the main panel)
>

Here's a good explanation of the old way and how to upgrade it:

In the past, wire cable for kitchen ranges included two hot wires and
a stranded ground/neutral. This type of cable is called service
entrance conductor (SE) cable. The range receptacle for this kind of
cable accommodated a three-prong plug configuration. The problem with
this arrangement was that the current-carrying neutral was the same as
the ground for the appliance frame. Today, wire cables for kitchen
ranges are still required to carry two hot conductors, and an
equipment ground, but an additional wire, a white, insulated, neutral
wire must also be included.

http://www.realtor.com/home-garden/d...eceptacle.aspx