On Wed, 17 Mar 2021 01:55:56 -0700 (PDT), Cindy Hamilton
> wrote:

>On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 7:35:09 PM UTC-4, Sheldon wrote:
>> On Tue, 16 Mar 2021 14:27:11 -0700 (PDT), Thomas >
>> wrote:
>> >On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 12:21:07 PM UTC-4, Sheldon wrote:
>> >> On Mon, 15 Mar 2021 17:24:15 -0500, BryanGSimmons
>> >> > wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >On 3/14/2021 7:59 PM, wrote:
>> >> >> On Sunday, March 14, 2021 at 7:00:27 PM UTC-5, wrote:
>> >> >>>
>> >> >>> I'm sure some of you have tile walls in your kitchen. What would
>> >> >>> motivate a person to paint over ceramic tile? In my son's new house,
>> >> >>> he was originally intending to totally redo the kitchen, but he's
>> >> >>> since reconsidered, and instead is opting to restore it to original,
>> >> >>> except for the window. Instead of replacing the cabinets that have
>> >> >>> layers of paint, I'm stripping them to bare wood, and repainting them
>> >> >>> white. I'm also stripping the paint off of the original tile. That
>> >> >>> blue is painted over a nice, deep burgundy tile.
>> >> >>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/361781...posted-public/
>> >> >>>
>> >> >> That's awful looking.
>> >> >>>
>> >> >>> Here's what's underneath. The tile at the rear is only half stripped.
>> >> >>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/361781...posted-public/
>> >> >>>
>> >> >> MUCH better. That will provide a nice accent color. But I wouldn't be so happy
>> >> >> with the tile countertop. The grout lines with be a harbinger of bacteria.
>> >> >
>> >> >Chlorine bleach, concentrated peroxide and quat disinfectants are
>> >> >very effective at killing bacteria. If you want to mix up a cheap
>> >> >surface disinfectant that is chlorine free, 4 oz 99% isopropyl alcohol
>> >> >added to 12 oz 40 volume clear developer is serious stuff. You don't
>> >> >want to get it on your skin, but it dries with zero residue.
>> >> >https://www.hbprochem.com/product-pa...-alcohol-16oz?
>> >> >https://www.sallybeauty.com/hair-col.../SLNCAR67.html
>> >> >>>
>> >> >>> Of course, the vinyl asbestos floor tile has to go, but white ceramic
>> >> >>> will maintain the old fashioned look. He even wants to replace the
>> >> >>> modern induction range with the 1950s-'60s gas range we pulled out of
>> >> >>> our rental property, which worked fine.
>> >> >>>
>> >> >> When you say the vinyl asbestos floor tile will have to go, can you elaborate?
>> >> >> Professionally removed so as to not stir up asbestos particles?
>> >> >>
>> >> >I can remove it safely. I spent years working with VA tile. As long as
>> >> >you keep it wet, and especially if you remove the tiles unbroken, no
>> >> >asbestos fibers will become airborne. It needs to go because it's ugly.
>> >> If that tile floor is reasonably flat and level it can be refloored
>> >> directly over it... save a ton of labor and a huge mess. Any low
>> >> spots can be shimmed up with tar paper. Our kitchen floor was that
>> >> type of 12" tile, installed a Brazilian Cherry hardwood floor over
>> >> it... adios puke green:
>> >> https://postimg.cc/gallery/S8YDCLD
>> >Sheldon, very nice. I am thinking doing the same. Was it diy? Cost? I am currently doing all doors and windows diy except for large front window over 110x80. Back doors I am midway thru painting which I hate. Satin black acrylic has brush marks. Switched to fine 2 inch roller and side 2 is looking better than side 1. Bought some 220 grit to redo side 1. No hurry as it is freezing. Nepa.
>> I had someone do it, someone who was very skilled at installing
>> hardwood flooring, he learned from his father who installed the
>> hardwood flooring in the rest of this house; livingroom, diningroom,
>> four bedrooms, and hallways. Why the kitchen area wasn't done at that
>> time I don't know.
>
>Probably because tile was considered easier to clean.

That could't be the reason, most of the house had hardwood floors.

>I've seen people installing click-together flooring in kitchens.
>What happens if they drop and egg or spill some milk? Does
>it run down under the flooring?

I haven't seen that. How would one clean that without the liquid
seeping through?

>> It was 30 years ago so the actual cost is immaterial but at the time
>> it was a good price. The price was less than any other kind of
>> flooring. A properly done hardwood floor is good for 120+ years, and
>> can be sanded and refinished several times. It will certainly outlive
>> you. Right now 30 years later it looks brand new. Real hardwood
>> flooring, T & G, is 3/4" thick. If you tire of the look it can be
>> stained/bleached to look very different. Naturally there are many
>> different woods to choose from and unlimited methods of instalation
>> from basic gymnasium to fancy schmancy parquet. Hardwood flooring is
>> a lifetime investment, and is very easy to maintain... works
>> exceptionally well in kitchens and bathrooms.
>
>Our floors are a little bouncy. The builder was a great stonemason but
>not much of a carpenter. We beefed up the bathroom floor before
>installing ceramic tile, but there's so much going on under the kitchen
>I doubt we'd attempt it. That's where the furnace is--and most of the
>kitchen is over the basement while part of it is over a crawlspace.
>
>The upshot is that all of our existing hardwood floors move around
>a lot; I can feel the boards flexing in some areas when I walk on
>them. If we had the hardwood floors refinished, I'm sure the seams
>between the boards would open up right away.

Obviously whoever installed your hardwood flooring was very
inexperienced... should have noticed the movement and laid down 5/8"
plywood before installing the hardwood.

>We're perpetually looking at remodeling the kitchen, and our first
>choice for flooring is sheet vinyl. No seams, and flexible enough
>to follow the movement of the subfloor.
>
>Cindy Hamilton

Flexible vinyl doesn't seem like a good idea, after some flexing it
will crack... thick plywood first, then the new floor... and add some
lolly collums in the basement to better support that floor.