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Mark Lipton
 
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Chris Sprague wrote:
> Telegramme:
> This is the 2002 cuvee from the producers of Dom. Vieux Telegraphe, a
> declassified one-off produced after the fall rains ruined most of the
> crop just before harvest.


The part of the crop that it didn't ruin was the Grenache, planted on
the plateau "La Crau," which apparently drained well enough to preserve
the fruit. The Bruniers were so impressed with the quality of the
Grenache that they were loathe to sell, but didn't want to call a 100%
Grenache cuvee "Vieux Telegraphe," so instead chose the rather whimsical
bottling you saw.

>
> Very light color, and I could swear that it looked pale at the rim, but
> that could have been a trick of the light caused by the thick glasses
> it was served in (I was at a friend's house).

To me, it was a typical Grenache color, close to garnet.

Very promising,
> structured nose indicating tannin and solid complexity with some fruit.
> Thinnish mouthfeel followed by a good but not great, medium finish,
> with a very red fruit-forward flavor. The tannins hinted at by the
> nose were nowhere to be seen, and it lacked the complexity I had hoped
> for. That being said, this was a pleasant enough wine, but its not a
> bargain priced Vieux Telegraphe. I'd buy it again at $18-$20, but not
> at $29.


What I got was classic, bright Grenache fruit in the nose and on the
palate, decent backbone, but a somewhat clipped finish. I likened it to
a decent Cotes du Rhone, but it lacked the depth or complexity of the
usual VT bottlings. I think that I paid $22 for it at Premier Cru.

Mark Lipton