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(Erica) wrote in
om:

> Hi all,
>
> I have a few trees in the backyard that produce sour oranges. A large
> number of them have started ripening, so I thought that it would be
> nice to make a batch of marmalade. I have made jam and preserves
> before, but I've never made jelly or marmalade, and I have several
> questions (please bear with me!).

Erica,

There are many different methods for producing marmalade. The one you
detailed is common, but I find it messier to deal with and the end
product is not measurably better than any other I've tried.

The sour/bitter oranges you have will work beautifully in marmalade.
These oranges are grown all over the valley surrounding Phoenix, AZ, and
the only type easily available to me. I can't tell the difference in the
finished product from genuine Seville oranges.

The following recipe is one I have used many times and is from Delia
Smith's website. The results are delicious and consistent.

Traditional Seville Orange Marmalade

Makes six 1 lb (350 ml capacity) jars

2 lb (900 g) Seville oranges
1 lemon
4 lb (1.8 kg) granulated sugar (to speed the dissolving, this can be
warmed in the oven)

You will also need a preserving pan or a large, heavy-based saucepan; a 9
inch (23 cm) square of muslin (or gauze); some string; a funnel; and six
1 lb (350 ml capacity) jars, sterilised.

Begin by measuring 4 pints (2.25 litres) water into a preserving pan,
then cut the lemon and oranges in half and squeeze the juice out of them.
Add the juice to the water and place the pips and any bits of pith that
cling to the squeezer on the square of muslin (laid over a dish or cereal
bowl first). Now cut the orange peel into quarters with a sharp knife,
and then cut each quarter into thinnish shreds. As you cut, add the
shreds to the water and any pips or spare pith you come across should go
on to the muslin. The pith contains a lot of pectin so don't discard any
and don't worry about any pith and skin that clings to the shreds – it
all gets dissolved in the boiling.

Now tie the pips and pith up loosely in the muslin to form a little bag,
and tie this on to the handle of the pan so that the bag is suspended in
the water. Then bring the liquid up to simmering point and simmer gently,
uncovered, for 2 hours or thereabouts until the peel is completely soft
(test a piece carefully by pressing it between your finger and thumb).
Meanwhile, chill the saucers in the freezer compartment of the fridge.

Next, remove the bag of pips and leave it to cool on a saucer. Then pour
the sugar into the pan and stir it now and then over a low heat, until
all the crystals have dissolved (check this carefully, it's important).
Now increase the heat to very high and squeeze the bag of pips over the
pan to extract all of the sticky, jelly-like substance that contains the
pectin. As you squeeze you'll see it ooze out. You can do this by placing
the bag between two saucers or using your hands. Then stir or whisk it
into the rest.

As soon as the mixture reaches a really fast boil, start timing. Then
after 15 minutes spoon a little of the marmalade on to one of the cold
saucers from the fridge, and let it cool back in the fridge. You can tell
– when it has cooled – if you have a 'set' by pushing the mixture with
your little finger: if it has a really crinkly skin, it is set. If not,
continue to boil the marmalade and give it the same test at about 10-
minute intervals until it does set.

After that remove the pan from the heat (if there's a lot of scum, most
of it can be dispersed by stirring in half a teaspoon of butter, and the
rest can be spooned off). Leave the marmalade to settle for 20 minutes.

In the meantime, the jars should be washed, dried and heated in a
moderate oven for 5 minutes. Pour the marmalade, with the aid of a funnel
or a ladle, into the jars, cover with waxed discs and seal while still
hot. Label when cold and store in a dry, cool, dark place. Then hurry up
and make some toast to try some!