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Valrhona 85%
at Fri, 21 Oct 2005 02:37:39 GMT in >,
(Geoffrey Bard) wrote :
>So how do you know whether it's dutched, if the label doesn't
>specifically say "cocoa processed with alkali"? Are these chocolatiers
>hiding the fact they are doing at least a little dutching?
What you're looking for is a distinct metallic twang at the beginning of
the flavour. Once you know what to look for, it's unmistakeable. It's hard
to put into words, but after a while you'll be able to identify Dutch
processing instantly.
As for looking on the label, the chocolatiers aren't "hiding" anything,
it's rather that it's only in the USA AFAIK that it specifically requires
the processed with alkali qualifier. Both of the chocolates you mentioned
are from Europe, where labelling laws are different.
The point to be taken, I think, from this is that Dutching isn't
necessarily a bad thing from a flavour standpoint. Now, plenty of people
lean one way or the other, the one group generally preferring natural and
the other generally preferring Dutch, but rare indeed I think is the
individual who without exception will prefer a natural or a Dutch-processed
chocolate over the other. It all depends on the specific bar and the
specific situation.
For instance, with relatively harsh beans (and this need not only be
"cheap" chocolate - e.g. Arriba and Ocumare beans can be harsh under
certain circumstances) Dutching often improves the overall flavour, because
it removes the bitter edge that numbs the tastebuds to anything else. But
with relatively gentle beans, Dutching pretty much wipes them out (e.g. God
forbid that one would Dutch a Porcelana or a Colombia Nacional) It's all
relative.
--
Alex Rast
(remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply)
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