at Mon, 31 Oct 2005 23:51:50 GMT in <1130802710.363860.179690
@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>, (Keith) wrote :

>
>Hi.
>
>I just made my first batch of truffles using a truffle recipe that
>called for 1 lb of bittersweet chocolate combined with 1 1/2 cups of
>heavy cream for the centers. The result is a very rich tasting truffle
>center (almost too rich) and a bit soft.

1 lb - 1.5 cups cream = 4:3 ratio. This will indeed produce a somewhat soft
truffle. FWIW this is a current fashion, started, it would seem, by Alice
Medrich. The classic truffle ratio is "firm ganache" - a 2:1 ratio. That
means 1 lb of bittersweet chocolate and 1 cup of cream. Be aware that this
will taste even richer, however, not less rich.

For the record, the "classic" ratios a

2:1 - Firm ganache - for truffles, moulded pieces, etc.
1:1 - Soft ganache - for frostings, fillings, and piped work
1:2 - Pouring ganache - for sauces and toppings

You can play around with the ratios to achieve intermediate textures. As I
implied, a lot of chocolatiers are making something below the firm ganache
but above the soft ganache for filling shell-coated truffles. Consumers
like them because the internal texture is creamier and more liquid, and it
does make for a more definite contrast to the crisp outer shell. However,
the 4:3 ratio doesn't work for the classic cocoa-rolled uncoated truffles -
it doesn't hold its shape truly well enough.

If you play around on the low side, between 1:1 and 1:2, doing things like
3:4 or 2:3, you can achieve consistencies similar to fudge sauce or to
pudding, which can be interesting.

A lot of people also add butter, which is useful with the higher ratios -
i.e. 4:3, 3:2, and 2:1, to achieve better texture and improved
emulsification. If you can't get 40% fat heavy cream (I recommend Organic
Valley heavy cream, pint-size carton), then adding butter may be necessary.
For a 2:1 ganache you'd use 1 lb chocolate, 7 oz. cream, 2 tbsp butter.

If you want both firm consistency and a less-rich flavour, then you'll need
to use a semisweet or sweet dark chocolate instead of a bittersweet. In
sweet dark chocolate, Callebaut's 54.5 is very good and economical as well.
Cuba Venchi makes an excellent 60% for semisweet, however, it's pretty
expensive and doesn't come in convenient formats. Guittard's Lever du
Soleil 61% is a good, economical chocolate.


--
Alex Rast

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