Dear Tea friends this tea story was written couple months ago. Here is
the post with my final touch. Enjoy...
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Kingdom Of Swaziland a small landlocked Southern African country. The
entire country is surrounded by Mozambique and South Africa. This is
one of the most beautiful, green, colorful, mountainous country in
Africa. The king is the ultimate power but the country is pretty much
like South Africa- GNI per capita $1,700 but still some people are
poor. modern roads, modest medical system, good British education
system exgist. The main problem is 45% population believed infected
with HIV, pretty scary. English language is widely spoken and English
style life style is also very interesting to observe.
You guys already know about my free three nights gift voucher in Royal
Swazi Sun Hotel. The hotel is situated a beautiful mountainous area
call- Ezulwini. The area surrounded by couple of mountains, beautiful
bush trees and flowers. Perfect example of near to heaven. Royal Swazi
has 18 holes golf club, one of the most beautiful golf club in the
world, Wonderful afternoon tea-coffee areas just next to a huge
swimming pool with a beautiful fountains. Wide selection of cake,
pastry, finger food.
While I was driving and enjoying beautiful wide open view, mountains.
Southern Africa is beautiful, green and colorful. The negative news
about Africa we heard of is central, sub-Sahara Africa. The area I was
driving call Malini, suddenly I saw a sign board "TEA". I was excited,
after a 2 and half ours drive, I wanted to stop and relax. The shop is
small, a flower nursery( I can't even remember how many kinds of flower
plants, orchid I have seen), small play corner for kids, many African
handicrafts and musical instruments. All the people are drinking tea
were European. Launch time, the tables were full of tourist. This part
of Africa is full of rich European tourist, retired with heavy bank
balance. Traveling Southern Africa is expensive for traveler who want
to explore with style. This group of traveler also come to collect
precious stones, animal skin, ivory etc. Africa is full of resources
and that is another reason why Africa will continue to suffer for
corporate greed. Anyway, I was wearing shorts, my favorite "Myrtle
Beach" baseball hat, T-vas sandal- a perfect example of typical
American tourist. My dress up was too easy going compare to those
senior European with light color suited gentlemen and flowery English
skirt dressed gentlewoman. Who cares, I took a corner where only one
small chair was waiting for me without any table for resting my arms.
Anyway, I am used to with rough and tough journey and I am fit in any
kind of environment. Indeed, my dress up was not very welcomed in that
environment so the waiter came to me late and asked me "Sir, we have no
extra table but if you want you can wait and have a cup of tea." I
asked for a cup of black tea and wanted know their selection. He was
most probably European-African with heavy accent and tried to shit with
me about their tea selection. I asked for their best black tea blend.
He said their blend is very rare and custom made of Chinese, Ceylon and
South African black tea calls "Swazi queen". I just didn't like his
body language. He came back with a tea pot and cup filled in with
so-called Swazi Queen. I took a sip and called him to me and said "When
did you start making up story about your blend." He looked at me with
surprise and say "Excuse me". I said no excuse as long as you are not
telling me the truth. This tea is pure South African black CTC which
produce little black tea. It is not smooth at all, the rough and full
bodied distinctive taste easily remind me of Transeki tea. He looked at
me and start shouting why should he lie with me. Other people start
moving their head to our conversation. I said I am also wondering why
should you lie with someone who know something about tea quality. One
English lady came to us and asked the guy why he can just bring the
blend to us. His face became very red, I understood now he is in
trouble. He start shouting to me and say Sir why don't you drink your
tea rather then challenging my tea quality. Swaziland is a peaceful
quiet country and the royal petrol police always intervene with any
small dispute. They came front of us and I felt they were tilted to
their fellow citizen who was challenged by a foreigner which is not
good for their tourist industry. They asked my identification such a
way than I was a criminal. I gave them my passport and the funny thing
start happening. First of all they salute me for my diplomatic pass and
asked if I need a ride to Ezulwini. I said, look guys I am here to eat
and visit your country not to be dominated by a hot headed man who
doesn't know anything about tea or trying to bluffing me. The policeman
apologies and asked the waiter to give my money back. By this time
other people became very interested in our conversation and a 30's
gentlewoman invited me to have launch with her. According to her gentle
offer was to learn more about tea. She though the waiter was very
unfair and I deserve some rest and peace. Well, I never consider myself
as an special person rather then a citizen of the universe. This is
very interesting to see how some people still respect people who dare
to face the truth. I end up with a bunch of European to present a small
lecture about tea, then culture and politics. The majority people were
going to spend Royal Swazi Sun Hotel and we end up our journey with a
little convoy. It was fun to be with this group of European.
I want to give you a little background why Americans are so influential
and respected in Swaziland. Swazi king maintain a lavish life who cares
a little about HIV problem. Couple years ago he wanted to buy a private
jet which package would cost the country $25 million. The money was
really needed for their social development project. All the foreign
donor disagreed with his plan but no one tried to stop him. After all
Swaziland doesn't depend on foreign aid like other African nation.
Swazi citizen were very upset with his decision. The US government came
with the real threat if he proceed with his plan then US government
will stop all foreign aid(for your information our expert and peaceCorp
is working very hard to control their HIV problem which helps them to
have some sort of control to spread HIV disease) and will declare the
king as an unwanted guest to the United States. The threat was not
official, it was delivered to him privately. That threat was enough to
stop the king to drop his royal plan. After that Swazi people respect
Americans even more.
Anyway, it was almost dark when we entered to the Ezulini valley. Oh
what a scene. I was stunt by the beauty of the valley. That night we
were invited to a cooking competetion. They choose eight different
group of people who were provided raw meat and spices and had to cook
their dish and share the food with each other. The prize was to stay in
the hotel's Royal suit for three nights. My group got the
responsibility to cook lamb curry in a South African porkey pot. For
your information, Porkey Pot is a huge iron pot which needed to be
cultured as Yixing tea pot. The cooked food get a different taste for
the pot. The pot need to be set inside a hole which is full of hot
charcoal. It was so much fun to be with different people from different
countries, we danced, we exchange our views, we drank some top quality
South African wine include a new wine call Green wine. The taste is in
between white and sparkling wine- very smooth, fruity and round
flavored. After cooking and eating session we had good English style
tea. I also steeped my Lord Ripon's blend and gave away my stock to
other people. They liked it so much, I even had to receive some order
from some of my new friends. As always I never accept money to share my
passion. One Dutch woman was so fond of my blend, she gave me a little
elephant bone statue as her gratitude. The world is so beautiful. I
don't understand why some of us still don't understand, exchange of
knowledge and tea can change some of our political tension. I think all
we need is to sit together and exchange dialogue.
Next day, I went to visit world famous "Ngwenya Glass Factory".
Everything is 100% recycled glass and handmade with quality human
touch. The famous Dutch glass craftsman Peter Bremer visited this glass
factory and praised their quality work. They make beautiful, elegant
glass decorative bowl, plate, flower vases, napkin rings, drinking
glasses with African design. Things can be expensive to moderate price.
I have seen a lot in my life but this is one of my favorite place where
I have to come back again. I bought a lot of crystal napkin rings and
some decorative bowls which were designed in Netherlands. I am always
curious to learn about art and crafts. My Dutch friend who I met during
my afternoon tea adventure, helped me a lot to understand the secret of
glass art and the glass art culture in Netherlands or Holland. The
factory compound also has a small craft market which offers African
weapons, artifacts and crafts, unique ceramic product, crafted rocking
horse and curved wooden statues. This glass factory is Africa's most
prestigious glass factory. The British Royal family collected a lot of
pieces to decorate some of their castle and palaces. I can write a book
about this beautiful factory. Interested people click on this link
please
http://www.ngwenyaglass.co.sz/ After the trip we had a
wonderful cup of Ceylon tea in there Cafeteria with some interesting
people. They also have a beautiful chocolate store who import raw
chocolate from Belgium and shape them in many African animal design.
First time in my life, I had spicy chocolate which they mix with a
little crushed dried chilies. Their Hazelnut chocolate was a real
treat. The chocolate is forms in animal shaped design in their factory
and served little hot and fresh. This taste is totally different then
the one we buy from our super market.
The great advantage in Swaziland is the country is small and you can go
to any corner of the country with 2-3 hours drive. The roads are
wonderful quality and the traffic system is very standard. The country
is full of beautiful hotels and resorts. I have been to Mbabane river,
Big game park, Mantenga falls, weaving village, enjoyed fishing in
Usuthu forest lake, the nature reserve of Lubombo, Pine valley(very
German rural looking), caving, rock climbing and enjoy typical Swazi
Sibhaca Dancing performance. It was a memorable trip and I will go back
to this small beautiful African country again and again. It is just
three hours drive from Maputo, Mozambique. If you like quiet, natural
beauty, high land, green mountain, animal life and culture Swaziland is
a perfect country. I recommend highly to visit Swaziland.
I hope you enjoy my post though it was more about culture rather then
tea.
Have a nice tea day.
Ripon
Maputo, Mozambique