John, as noted below Thomases didn't write for Gambero Rosso. But an
understandable mistake- GR and WA often agree on the wonders of modern
winemaking. I have pretty broad tastes, but up until last two years
the Tuscan and Piedmont sections of GR 3B have read like the de Grazia
Brotherhood of Oaky Winemaking (though Giacosa has always slipped in,
and recently both Mascarellos and Marcarini made the list). We
sometimes joke that Gambero Rosso is Italian for "More Oak! More
Vanilla! More Chocolate", and Tre Bicchieri means " Tres Oaky"

I've heard good things about the reviewers of the northern white areas
like Friuli. Usually if I think that the few Southern Italians I try
that get 3 glasses are as much the product of lumberyards as vineyards,
but that's a small sample.