cwdjrxyz wrote:
> The Chablis Grand Cru - Les Preuses 1979, Rene Dauvissat, was my last
> bottle, and has been properly stored since release. The fill was still
> high, and the cork was sound.
>
> The color is light yellow with a hint of green, what would be expected
> for a Grand Cru Chablis in good condition. There was not a trace of
> oxidation. There was good fruit of a complex mixed citrus character, as
> well as some flinty mineral character. There is enough, but not
> excessive, acidity. The wine is now more rounded and complex than when
> young.
>
> It is not at all unusual for a top Chablis Grand Cru to last this well.
> I have read several accounts of visiting VIPs being offered samples of
> old top Grand Cru Chablis by growers at their cellars, and the wine was
> still holding very well at several decades of age. In fact a Grand Cru
> Chablis, at the best, is a rather big wine, often has high alcohol, but
> still has plenty of acid and some flinty character. It can be of about
> the weight of a top Puligny-Montrachet, although of different style. It
> is big enough to hold up to about the same dishes as will a
> Puligny-Montrachet. I say serve a lesser wine or lemon juice with the
> raw oysters, and save a top Grand Cru Chablis for the main course. I
> have yet to have a Grand Cru Chablis of top repute and good vintage
> year that showed any oxidation before 10 years if properly stored and
> having a good cork. I can not say the same for some Puligny-Montrachet
> of good reputation, especially in very hot years when acid is low.
>

Thank you for the excellent notes. One of my all-time greatest wine
experiences was the '85 Les Preuses from R. Dauvissat, which we had
twice. One of the few points of contention between Jean and myself is
her resistance to the idea of aging white wines for extended periods. I
will submit your notes as my latest foray in this ongoing struggle. ;-)

Mark Lipton