Posted to alt.food.wine
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Texas Wine
On Feb 7, 9:31 am, Ed Rasimus > wrote:
> Unlike "jumbo shrimp" or even "military intelligence", I can now
> assert that "Texas wine" is not an oxymoron.
>
> The previously announced visit to the Texas Hill Country took place
> this past weekend, and I'm willing to confess astonishment and very
> pleasant surprise at the offerings of Texas wines that I encountered.
>
> I'd previously tasted some wines grown in the Denison region, which
> despite the historical link to the Thomas Munson research that saved
> Europe from Phylloxera, were not very good.
>
> I started out in Fredericksburg (without benefit of local advice) at
> the Fredericksburg winery in the heart of town. Lots of varietals
> offered, with apparently knowledgable staff pointing out the alignment
> from dry to sweet and mandating "no dry to be tasted after sweet..." I
> started at the dry flight, since I don't particularly like sweet(ish)
> wines. Alas, the cabernet sauvignon was a wine that would make Mogan
> David Concord look good. Watery, pale, sweet. The Pinot Noir was a bit
> better, sort of like a diluted Kendall-Jackson. There was a dry rose
> of cabernet that was almost drinkable. Bad start.
>
> Then was a visit to Torre di Pietra, about half-way between
> Fredericksburg and Stonewall. This looked almost too contrived--stone,
> Burgundy-style winery building, fields of vines arrayed behind, fire
> in the fireplace, and tables arrayed for sipping and talking either
> inside or out. Minor off-putting moment with a $5 charge for five
> tastes, but them's the rules.
>
> Very nice array of varietals. Cabernet, Malbec, Mourvedre, Gewurz,
> Chard, Fume Blanc, etc. No Pinot, but that was reasonable. Some
> unusual grapes such as Touriga Nacional, Carignan and Grenacha. Some
> blends focussed on style, such as a five grape Spanish style they call
> Parada. Also some very pleasant sippers--a red called "Red Flirt" and
> a white called "Dirty Girl".
>
> Good news. The wines were excellent, with the exception of the Gewurz
> which somehow managed to capture the essence of gas-station restroom
> disinfectant. But,other than that, I found the reds almost uniformly
> impressive, particularly the Mourvedre. Came away with a
> case--Mourvere, Parada and Touriga Nacional.
>
> Next stop, the following day, was Becker. These folks had been
> mentioned here as worth visiting. Good advice!!! Another attempt at
> faux-Burgundy stone manor, warm and inviting. Broad range of varietals
> and again no Pinot Noir--a wisdom that Fredericksburg Winery would be
> wise to note.
>
> A great cabernet sauvignon they call Iconoclast--at about $10 a
> bottle, it is a real find! Surprisingly their whites really won my
> favor. They were already sold out of their '05 Chard--which I'd
> enjoyed the previous night at our small hotel for dinner (Rose Hill
> Manor in Stonewall--of which more in another post). But, they still
> had a Reserve Chard which reminded me a bit of Schug or Neyer in
> style.
>
> Then a delicate Chenin Blanc, clear, crisp, green apple and pear with
> the cleanest finish I think I've ever experienced in a dry white. Also
> a Viognier--maybe I'm becoming a convert.
>
> Overall Becker showed me some really fine wines--products that
> wouldn't be embarrassed in a blind tasting next to CA, OZ or Euro
> offerings.
>
> The Lagniappe:
>
> Talking with the folks who run Rose Hill on our departure the next
> morning about wines and wineries in the area, they offered me a bottle
> of a wine produced by the winemaker at Grape Creek Vineyard (a stop
> for next visit). This one was an '04 Cabernet/Syrah blend (74/26%)
> labeled "Quivis". It indicates they are in Lubbock TX, but don't look
> for them online (yet.)
>
> The wine was deep, dark, more brown than red. Wonderful huge nose of
> black cherries, deep spices and maybe a tinge of cedar. Huge mouthful
> of fruit and spices with some of that toastiness from judicious use of
> oak. Well balanced, very viscous, long legs, and extended finish. Just
> released, but without any sense of immaturity. One of the best wines
> I've had in a very long time! (If I were looking for comparison in my
> recent encounters, I'd say Cakebread '01 Cab, or Monte Bello '92 as
> the sort of wine this was.)
>
> Ed Rasimus
> Fighter Pilot (USAF-Ret)
> "When Thunder Rolled"
> www.thunderchief.org
> www.thundertales.blogspot.com
Very nice notes, thanks!
falon
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