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Barbecue (alt.food.barbecue) Discuss barbecue and grilling--southern style "low and slow" smoking of ribs, shoulders and briskets, as well as direct heat grilling of everything from burgers to salmon to vegetables. |
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The idea of bolts through the fire pan didn't work in my mind, I'm sure
many of you used it, but I have been firing it up in the back yard, in sand so as to not stain the porch, and the bolt heads just didn't seem sturdy enough for me - plus I would have gone through the hassle of the wrong size, cutting all-thread etc (and yea, I'm lazy) So it occurred to me that the water pan was about the same height as the fire pan and the Academy Store where I bought the ECB had replacement pans for $4.99. I bought another pan, drilled a hole in the bottom of the fire pan and a water pan, put them so the bottom-outsides were touching and bolted them together. I then drilled holes through the bottoms and then on the outside of the water pan (new base). The other benefit here is that if I need to choke down a bit I can close the holes by moving the fire pan by an inch or so either way. Markings on the pan would signal open - but if it is just paint then they will burn off (thought of that after I painted the lines) I also straightened the legs and will replace with 3/4" steel as another poster suggested - also didn't like the tripping hazzard of putting them on the outside - although that may just be in my mind. So now the new water pan sits upside down with air holes, bolted on top is the fire pan with holes drilled through it, and the water pan beneath it, legs are straight so the top comes off - and all for 4.99 and a bolt that was lying around the garage. feels real sturdy, and doesn't look half bad. 2-kewl |
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In article . com>,
"2kewl-AlamoCityGypsyMC" > wrote: > The idea of bolts through the fire pan didn't work in my mind, I'm sure > many of you used it, but I have been firing it up in the back yard, in > sand so as to not stain the porch, and the bolt heads just didn't seem > sturdy enough for me - plus I would have gone through the hassle of the > wrong size, cutting all-thread etc (and yea, I'm lazy) > So it occurred to me that the water pan was about the same height as > the fire pan and the Academy Store where I bought the ECB had > replacement pans for $4.99. I bought another pan, drilled a hole in > the bottom of the fire pan and a water pan, put them so the > bottom-outsides were touching and bolted them together. I then > drilled holes through the bottoms and then on the outside of the > water pan (new base). The other benefit here is that if I need to > choke down a bit I can close the holes by moving the fire pan by an > inch or so either way. I assume that you connected the two pans with a bolt through the center, right? > Markings on the pan would signal open - but if it is just paint then > they will burn off (thought of that after I painted the lines) I also > straightened the legs and will replace with 3/4" steel as another > poster suggested - also didn't like the tripping hazzard of putting > them on the outside - although that may just be in my mind. So now > the new water pan sits upside down with air holes, bolted on top is > the fire pan with holes drilled through it, and the water pan beneath > it, legs are straight so the top comes off - and all for 4.99 and a > bolt that was lying around the garage. feels real sturdy, and doesn't > look half bad. > 2-kewl > Sounds like a novel approach, 2-kewl! I salute your creativity! ![]() Have you tried it out, yet, to see how it works? I'd be interested to know how well it will hold the fire. -- Stan Marks A waist is a terrible thing to mind. |
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2kewl-AlamoCityGypsyMC wrote:
> The idea of bolts through the fire pan didn't work in my mind, I'm sure > many of you used it, but I have been firing it up in the back yard, in > sand so as to not stain the porch, and the bolt heads just didn't seem > sturdy enough for me - plus I would have gone through the hassle of the > wrong size, cutting all-thread etc (and yea, I'm lazy) I tried the bolts at first. The result was far too wibbly for my sense of saftey. > So it occurred to me that the water pan was about the same height as > the fire pan and the Academy Store where I bought the ECB had > replacement pans for $4.99. I bought another pan, drilled a hole in > the bottom of the fire pan and a water pan, put them so the > bottom-outsides were touching and bolted them together. I then drilled > holes through the bottoms and then on the outside of the water pan (new > base). The other benefit here is that if I need to choke down a bit I > can close the holes by moving the fire pan by an inch or so either way. > Markings on the pan would signal open - but if it is just paint then > they will burn off (thought of that after I painted the lines) That could work. Are you going to elevate the whole thing to allow combustion air to come in the bottom? > I also straightened the legs and will replace with 3/4" steel as > another poster suggested - also didn't like the tripping hazzard of > putting them on the outside - although that may just be in my mind. I've never come close to contacting the legs of my ECBX2 while cooking. Of course, you might be clumsier than me:-) > So now the new water pan sits upside down with air holes, bolted on top > is the fire pan with holes drilled through it, and the water pan > beneath it, legs are straight so the top comes off - and all for 4.99 > and a bolt that was lying around the garage. > feels real sturdy, and doesn't look half bad. Report back after you've given it a try. -- Matthew I'm a contractor. If you want an opinion, I'll sell you one. Which one do you want? |
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![]() Matthew L. Martin wrote: > That could work. Are you going to elevate the whole thing to allow > combustion air to come in the bottom? > Yes one bolt in the center to allow turning so the holes either line up, or are closed. Plenty stable enough with all that surface area. And don't need to elevate as I put a second set of holes around the base (the uspide down water pan) Will try it this weekend, as I travel a lot for work and that will be my first time home since last night. 2-kewl |
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>Matthew L. Martin wrote:
> That could work. Are you going to elevate the whole thing to allow > combustion air to come in the bottom? >Yes one bolt in the center to allow turning so the holes either line >up, or are closed. Plenty stable enough with all that surface area. >And don't need to elevate as I put a second set of holes around the >base (the uspide down water pan) >Will try it this weekend, as I travel a lot for work and that will be >my first time home since last night. Fired her up on Sunday, and got two hours and 15 minutes at just above 250- started to dip a bit, threw in a couple more chunks of pecan (started with three, a chimney of lump - minon method, and another lit chimney), and shook the pan a bit to get the ashes off. Was doing a shoulder roast, and while it came out dry (overdone) it was not the fault of the cooker, or the mods - but total operator error. Overall VERY happy with the mod, may try shutting down the air a bit as the "bit over 250" IMO was just a little warmer than I am used to - but I guess I should have known that with all the extra air the firebox was getting. 2kewl |
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