Any recommended pubs located on the Messe side of the river in Koln?

My itinerary involves catching an ICE train at the Messe railway
station. I may some time to kill, so thought I might explore the
surroundings on the non-tourist side of the river.

Bruce

a écrit :

>Any recommended pubs located on the Messe side of the river in Koln?
>
>My itinerary involves catching an ICE train at the Messe railway
>station. I may some time to kill, so thought I might explore the
>surroundings on the non-tourist side of the river.
>
There used to be the mythical, scruffy Gaststätte Lommerzheim, aka
Lommis, three minute's walk away from Köln-Deutz station, but it closed
down at the end of December 2004... ((


--
Warning : you may encounter French language beyond this point.

Je cherche mon petit Liré...
(F'murrr)

Laurent Mousson, Berne, Switzerland

Oh dear? I saw this in Ron Pattisons web site and planned to visit...
Any other pubs/bars at all on this side of the river?
On a related point, what sort of beer do they serve in the buffet cars
on Deutsche Bahn ICE trains?

Bruce

wrote:
> Any recommended pubs located on the Messe side of the river in Koln?

Is that the opposite side of the river from the Cathedral?

If so, there was a nice little Paeffgen pub next to the
youth hostel. The Youth Hostel is at:
Siegesstr. 5
50679 K=F6ln

The pub was directly accross the street, if I remember correctly.

It was the first Koeslch beers I tasted when I arrived in Koln,
and quite possibly the best.

John

wrote:

> Oh dear? I saw this in Ron Pattisons web site and planned to visit...

Regrettably, Ron's site is just a touch out of date here. The owner
packed it in at the end of 2004. He was 74. He died a few months
later, to the great sorrow of those who treasured his tavern, where
all were treated equally.

Lommi certainly was a textbook example of "endearingly scruffy."
See http://www.nurso.de/lommi/images/Lommi_text.jpg and
http://www.schael-sick-online.de/Lommi%20von%20oben.jpg for hints.

> Any other pubs/bars at all on this side of the river?
> On a related point, what sort of beer do they serve in the buffet cars
> on Deutsche Bahn ICE trains?

Pils, usually "national" brands. Sometimes Erdinger Weisse.
--
dgs

> wrote in message
oups.com...

> Is that the opposite side of the river from the Cathedral?

> If so, there was a nice little Paeffgen pub next to the
> youth hostel. The Youth Hostel is at:
> Siegesstr. 5
> 50679 Köln

Hmm, the only Päffgen I'm aware of is on the same side of the Rhein as the
Hauptbahnhof and Dom, about a 15-20 minute walk west-ish of both, away from
the river. (Checking their web site, the only address they give is
Friesenstraße 64-66.) I'm not sure how much Päffgen sell to other pubs, but
the actual Hausbrauerei is at the Friesenstr. address.

To the OP, it's well worth the trip across the Rhine. For my money, it's the
best Kölsch there is (Malzmühle would be my second choice), and the pub
itself is a wonderful old beer hall. Hop a train back across the river and
then catch a tram from the Hbf, and it's not that long a journey to get
there. From what I recall, there's not going to be anything special on the
Messe side of the river.

-Steve

Steve Jackson wrote:
> > wrote in message
> oups.com...
>
> > Is that the opposite side of the river from the Cathedral?
>
> > If so, there was a nice little Paeffgen pub next to the
> > youth hostel. The Youth Hostel is at:
> > Siegesstr. 5
> > 50679 K=F6ln
>
> Hmm, the only P=E4ffgen I'm aware of is on the same side of the Rhein as =
the
> Hauptbahnhof and Dom, about a 15-20 minute walk west-ish of both, away fr=
om
> the river. (Checking their web site, the only address they give is
> Friesenstra=DFe 64-66.) I'm not sure how much P=E4ffgen sell to other pub=
s, but
> the actual Hausbrauerei is at the Friesenstr. address.

True, this was not the brewery, ... it was just a little bar that
served
Paeffgen. It was in 1999 when I was there, so perhaps they closed.

If you can walk across the bridge to the Cathedral, there are
a lot of Koelsch bars not to far from it. I remember there
was a Fruch bar parctially in the shadow if it.

John

Thanks Steve.
I've visited the "tourist side" quite a few times.
I was wondering if the Messe side had any pubs. I am coming from the
airport and connecting with an ICE train down to Nuremberg from Messe
station.
If not, I'll buy a couple of bottles of koelsch and drink them on the
train.

dgs a écrit :

> Lommi certainly was a textbook example of "endearingly scruffy."

Well put. In a city such as Cologne where every Kneipe is clean and
soulless, this was pretty much the only place where one found the same
whiff of humanity one finds in the best british community pubs.

>> On a related point, what sort of beer do they serve in the buffet cars
>> on Deutsche Bahn ICE trains?
>
> Pils, usually "national" brands. Sometimes Erdinger Weisse.

Depends on the routes. I remeber having a few very nice glasses of
Fürstenberg Pils between Basel and Cologne.

--
Warning : you may encounter French language beyond this point.

Mon rêve à moi, c'est d'avoir des cornes à double volute...
(F'murrr)

Laurent Mousson, Berne, Switzerland

FYI ... a little more info on the place:
http://www.cologne-in.de/kneipen/k_lommerzheim.htm

It's at Siegesstr. 18

It looks a little run down on the outside ...
but the beer still tastes great!

John

wrote:
> Steve Jackson wrote:
> > > wrote in message
> > oups.com...
> >
> > > Is that the opposite side of the river from the Cathedral?
> >
> > > If so, there was a nice little Paeffgen pub next to the
> > > youth hostel. The Youth Hostel is at:
> > > Siegesstr. 5
> > > 50679 K=F6ln
> >
> > Hmm, the only P=E4ffgen I'm aware of is on the same side of the Rhein a=
s the
> > Hauptbahnhof and Dom, about a 15-20 minute walk west-ish of both, away =
from
> > the river. (Checking their web site, the only address they give is
> > Friesenstra=DFe 64-66.) I'm not sure how much P=E4ffgen sell to other p=
ubs, but
> > the actual Hausbrauerei is at the Friesenstr. address.
>
> True, this was not the brewery, ... it was just a little bar that
> served
> Paeffgen. It was in 1999 when I was there, so perhaps they closed.
>
> If you can walk across the bridge to the Cathedral, there are
> a lot of Koelsch bars not to far from it. I remember there
> was a Fruch bar parctially in the shadow if it.
>=20
> John

wrote:

> FYI ... a little more info on the place:
> http://www.cologne-in.de/kneipen/k_lommerzheim.htm
>
> It's at Siegesstr. 18
>
> It looks a little run down on the outside ...
> but the beer still tastes great!

Päffgen might taste great somewhere, but most certainly not here.
Not any more.

As has been mentioned in this thread, that was the Gaststätte
Lommerzheim, aka "Lommi." It closed for good after its last day
of business, on December 31, 2004; the 74-year-old owner had been
running the place for more than half a century. The owner died just
a few months ago.

It was scruffy on the inside, worn on the inside, and a one of the
great classic Cologne pub-restaurants, serving up Päffgen on tap
and gigantic pork chops, aka "Koteletten," with french fries and
onions. You didn't saunter up to the bar to order beer there; you
waited until the owner - the only waiter in the joint - came by your
table while he was making his rounds through the room. You had to
be quick-witted, because he would stop by for just a brief pause,
but of course you were there to drink Kölsch, were you not? If not,
what were you doing there?

It was a treasure. It will be missed. We may not see its like ever
again.
--
dgs

wrote:

> Thanks Steve.
> I've visited the "tourist side" quite a few times.
> I was wondering if the Messe side had any pubs. I am coming from the
> airport and connecting with an ICE train down to Nuremberg from Messe
> station.
> If not, I'll buy a couple of bottles of koelsch and drink them on the
> train.

The Deutz side of the Rhein has various pubs and restaurants, but none
of any great distinction - at least, not any more.
--
dgs

Steve Jackson wrote:

> [...]
> Hmm, the only Päffgen I'm aware of is on the same side of the Rhein as the
> Hauptbahnhof and Dom, about a 15-20 minute walk west-ish of both, away from
> the river. (Checking their web site, the only address they give is
> Friesenstraße 64-66.)

That's the main Päffgen brewery-pub, yes.

> I'm not sure how much Päffgen sell to other pubs, but
> the actual Hausbrauerei is at the Friesenstr. address.

Yep. There used to be a second Päffgen place at the southern end of the
Altstadt, quite close to the Heumarkt. However, the owner - a member of
the family - had a falling-out, and banished Päffgen's beer from the
place. In its place, he substituted his own beer, "Pfaffen," which is
also the name of the place. He was going to bill it as a Kölsch, but
it's not brewed within the geographic area defined by the Kölsch
Konvention, so ... it's just Pfaffenbier.

However, a short walk from Pfaffen is a place that was opened up
relatively recently ... serving Päffgen. Imagine that. And so the
feud continues.

> To the OP, it's well worth the trip across the Rhine. For my money, it's the
> best Kölsch there is (Malzmühle would be my second choice), and the pub
> itself is a wonderful old beer hall.

Those two, and the two Früh houses (am Dom and im Weedel), are about as
good as it gets. Last time in Cologne, I got the impression that there
was some dumbing-down of a lot of the brands. There are fewer Kölsches
than there used to be - or so it seems - and too many of them taste
suspiciously alike. Considering that several of them are brewed at the
same plant, perhaps it's not so suspicious, but it is disappointing.
Peters Brauhaus, in the Altstadt, is also a pleasant place to spend
some time, although its Kölsch is among the lightest and mildest of
the bunch - or so it seemed to me, anyway.
--
dgs

dgs wrote:
>
> It was a treasure. It will be missed. We may not see its like ever
> again.

Sad to hear that it is no more.

I had one of my most enjoyable experiences in Europe there ...
after arriving in Koln by train, I got out at the
main station and started wondering around, looking
for the hostel where I had my reservation.

After a long while, I found out the hostel was across
the bridge, so I hoofed it across (carrying my backpack).
It was a warm May day, and I was pretty hot by the time
I found the place and checked in.

Once I dumped my backpack, I went out to look for some Koelsch,
and the first place I saw was this ratty looking place across
the street.

The tavern was pretty full of people, and even people spilled
out onto the street.

There was a couple sitting next to their bicycle, who
at first I thought were from the hostel, but on asking
them, found out they were natives, and that the beer
here was the best Koeslch in Koln.

Since I was really tired by a long day of travel, I had
not problem with going in and drinking my first couple
of Koelschs there, which I did.

The next day I spent walking around sampling the Koelsches
at all the places on the opposite side of the river,
but I'm not sure if any of them were as good as those
first ones I had there.

Cheers,
John

OP here.
I had a walk around the Deutz station area...Koln FC football team were
playing a game at the nearby stadium. There were a few pubs on the
pedestrianised shopping street nearby, including an excellent
traditional type Sion pub which was popular with local soccer fans.
But, as you say, Lommis is all boarded up now.

Any comments on Reissdorf koelsch...all the soccer fans were drinking
bottles of it on the way to the game. Probably because it has a red &
white label = same colours as FC Koln.
Bruce
Bruce

wrote:

> [...]
> Any comments on Reissdorf koelsch...

Passable example of the style, and pretty much the only one from
Cologne available in the USA on a regular basis. Not the worst
of the bunch, and fairly widely available.
--
dgs

On Mon, 05 Sep 2005 16:24:35 -0700, dgs > wrote:

wrote:
>
>> [...]
>> Any comments on Reissdorf koelsch...
>
>Passable example of the style, and pretty much the only one from
>Cologne available in the USA on a regular basis. Not the worst
>of the bunch, and fairly widely available.

Yes decent enough beer and particularly good in the brewery tap, not a
million miles from Barbarossa Platz

>Yes decent enough beer and particularly good in the brewery tap, not a
million miles from Barbarossa Platz <

Where is the brewery tap, exactly?

Thanks
Bruce