We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop (as opposed to a
cooktop) that sits down in the cabinets rather than on the counter surface.
So in all the model kitchens there is an ever so small gap on either side of
the rangetop. Everyone we ask about how to seal that up gives us a kind of
puzzled look.

Is sealing this gap just not done? (I'm a little worried about those garlic
anchovy drippings slipping in there and being with us for weeks!) If it is
done, how is it typically done? Anyone else gone through this recently?

Tx,
M

"m" > wrote:

>We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop
>
> (I'm a little worried about those garlic
>anchovy drippings slipping in there and being with us for weeks!)

Any professional kitchen will not worry about this either. If you do...why
don't you look for a a smooth glass top that can be shined and polished after
every meal.

"m" > wrote in message
news:bS54d.133665$3l3.113696@attbi_s03...
>
> We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop (as opposed to a
> cooktop) that sits down in the cabinets rather than on the counter
surface.
> So in all the model kitchens there is an ever so small gap on either side
of
> the rangetop. Everyone we ask about how to seal that up gives us a kind
of
> puzzled look.
>
> Is sealing this gap just not done? (I'm a little worried about those
garlic
> anchovy drippings slipping in there and being with us for weeks!) If it
is
> done, how is it typically done? Anyone else gone through this recently?
>

You can use calking to fill small gaps, just check the label to see what the
maximum temperature exposure is. I used color-matched silicon calk around
my slide-in range and counters and it has worked very well. Larger gaps can
be filled with filler strips supplied by the cabinet manufacturer. You
might also use metal strips to trim out the area. Remember, if you use trim
around the range it may have to be removed to service the appliance.

"m" > wrote in message news:<bS54d.133665$3l3.113696@attbi_s03>...
> We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop (as opposed to a
> cooktop) that sits down in the cabinets rather than on the counter surface.
> So in all the model kitchens there is an ever so small gap on either side of
> the rangetop. Everyone we ask about how to seal that up gives us a kind of
> puzzled look.
>
> Is sealing this gap just not done? (I'm a little worried about those garlic
> anchovy drippings slipping in there and being with us for weeks!) If it is
> done, how is it typically done? Anyone else gone through this recently?
>
> Tx,
> M


No, it's a real thing, there is such a gap and people do wonder about
how to deal with it. When our contractor installed our rangetop (a
BlueStar) about six months ago, he filled in that gap with some sort
of nothing fancy clear caulk-type substance (silicone maybe?). It's
completely unobtrusive aesthetically, and it does the job of keeping
stuff from dripping down that narrow gap (which it otherwise will
certainly do). This gets discussed from time-to-time over on the
gardenweb appliance forum site (www. thathomesite.com). I recall
people mentioning that there is some sort of strip you can buy at
HomeDepot (or the equivalent) to do this job, but I don't remember
more about it, as what we did seemed at least as good.

"m" > wrote in message news:<bS54d.133665$3l3.113696@attbi_s03>...
> We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop (as opposed to a
> cooktop) that sits down in the cabinets rather than on the counter surface.
> So in all the model kitchens there is an ever so small gap on either side of
> the rangetop. Everyone we ask about how to seal that up gives us a kind of
> puzzled look.
>
> Is sealing this gap just not done? (I'm a little worried about those garlic
> anchovy drippings slipping in there and being with us for weeks!) If it is
> done, how is it typically done? Anyone else gone through this recently?
>
> Tx,
> M


No, it's a real thing, there is such a gap and people do wonder about
how to deal with it. When our contractor installed our rangetop (a
BlueStar) about six months ago, he filled in that gap with some sort
of nothing fancy clear caulk-type substance (silicone maybe?). It's
completely unobtrusive aesthetically, and it does the job of keeping
stuff from dripping down that narrow gap (which it otherwise will
certainly do). This gets discussed from time-to-time over on the
gardenweb appliance forum site (www. thathomesite.com). I recall
people mentioning that there is some sort of strip you can buy at
HomeDepot (or the equivalent) to do this job, but I don't remember
more about it, as what we did seemed at least as good.

Anita P. Ness > wrote in message >. ..
> "m" > wrote:
>
> >We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop
> >
> > (I'm a little worried about those garlic
> >anchovy drippings slipping in there and being with us for weeks!)
>
> Any professional kitchen will not worry about this either. If you do...why
> don't you look for a a smooth glass top that can be shined and polished after
> every meal.

Well aren't we just oh so amusing and clever. This isn't a
professional kitchen. It's where a family spends time and eats meals.
Is it really so unreasonable not to want grease or oil or rendered
fat splattering down into a location where it cannot be removed so
that your kitchen smells rancid. Sheesh.

Anita P. Ness > wrote in message >. ..
> "m" > wrote:
>
> >We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop
> >
> > (I'm a little worried about those garlic
> >anchovy drippings slipping in there and being with us for weeks!)
>
> Any professional kitchen will not worry about this either. If you do...why
> don't you look for a a smooth glass top that can be shined and polished after
> every meal.

Well aren't we just oh so amusing and clever. This isn't a
professional kitchen. It's where a family spends time and eats meals.
Is it really so unreasonable not to want grease or oil or rendered
fat splattering down into a location where it cannot be removed so
that your kitchen smells rancid. Sheesh.

(MEM9) wrote:


>> >We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop

>Well aren't we just oh so amusing and clever. This isn't a
>professional kitchen.

Never mind.....you probably can't see a grin with that scowl on your brow.
Check your scripts....there are meds that can help your attitude.


The happy people are those who are producing something;
the bored people are those who are consuming much and producing nothing.
- - William Ralph Inge

(MEM9) wrote:


>> >We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop

>Well aren't we just oh so amusing and clever. This isn't a
>professional kitchen.

Never mind.....you probably can't see a grin with that scowl on your brow.
Check your scripts....there are meds that can help your attitude.


The happy people are those who are producing something;
the bored people are those who are consuming much and producing nothing.
- - William Ralph Inge

you figure out what the difference between sealed and open burners are yet,
newb?

"Anita P. Ness" > wrote in message
...
> "m" > wrote:
>
> >We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop
> >
> > (I'm a little worried about those garlic
> >anchovy drippings slipping in there and being with us for weeks!)
>
> Any professional kitchen will not worry about this either. If you
do...why
> don't you look for a a smooth glass top that can be shined and polished
after
> every meal.
>
>
>
>

you figure out what the difference between sealed and open burners are yet,
newb?

"Anita P. Ness" > wrote in message
...
> "m" > wrote:
>
> >We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop
> >
> > (I'm a little worried about those garlic
> >anchovy drippings slipping in there and being with us for weeks!)
>
> Any professional kitchen will not worry about this either. If you
do...why
> don't you look for a a smooth glass top that can be shined and polished
after
> every meal.
>
>
>
>

tx very much, this helps

"Vox Humana" > wrote in message
...
>
> "m" > wrote in message
> news:bS54d.133665$3l3.113696@attbi_s03...
> >
> > We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop (as opposed to a
> > cooktop) that sits down in the cabinets rather than on the counter
> surface.
> > So in all the model kitchens there is an ever so small gap on either
side
> of
> > the rangetop. Everyone we ask about how to seal that up gives us a kind
> of
> > puzzled look.
> >
> > Is sealing this gap just not done? (I'm a little worried about those
> garlic
> > anchovy drippings slipping in there and being with us for weeks!) If it
> is
> > done, how is it typically done? Anyone else gone through this recently?
> >
>
> You can use calking to fill small gaps, just check the label to see what
the
> maximum temperature exposure is. I used color-matched silicon calk around
> my slide-in range and counters and it has worked very well. Larger gaps
can
> be filled with filler strips supplied by the cabinet manufacturer. You
> might also use metal strips to trim out the area. Remember, if you use
trim
> around the range it may have to be removed to service the appliance.
>
>

tx very much, this helps

"Vox Humana" > wrote in message
...
>
> "m" > wrote in message
> news:bS54d.133665$3l3.113696@attbi_s03...
> >
> > We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop (as opposed to a
> > cooktop) that sits down in the cabinets rather than on the counter
> surface.
> > So in all the model kitchens there is an ever so small gap on either
side
> of
> > the rangetop. Everyone we ask about how to seal that up gives us a kind
> of
> > puzzled look.
> >
> > Is sealing this gap just not done? (I'm a little worried about those
> garlic
> > anchovy drippings slipping in there and being with us for weeks!) If it
> is
> > done, how is it typically done? Anyone else gone through this recently?
> >
>
> You can use calking to fill small gaps, just check the label to see what
the
> maximum temperature exposure is. I used color-matched silicon calk around
> my slide-in range and counters and it has worked very well. Larger gaps
can
> be filled with filler strips supplied by the cabinet manufacturer. You
> might also use metal strips to trim out the area. Remember, if you use
trim
> around the range it may have to be removed to service the appliance.
>
>

tx very much, this helps

"Vox Humana" > wrote in message
...
>
> "m" > wrote in message
> news:bS54d.133665$3l3.113696@attbi_s03...
> >
> > We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop (as opposed to a
> > cooktop) that sits down in the cabinets rather than on the counter
> surface.
> > So in all the model kitchens there is an ever so small gap on either
side
> of
> > the rangetop. Everyone we ask about how to seal that up gives us a kind
> of
> > puzzled look.
> >
> > Is sealing this gap just not done? (I'm a little worried about those
> garlic
> > anchovy drippings slipping in there and being with us for weeks!) If it
> is
> > done, how is it typically done? Anyone else gone through this recently?
> >
>
> You can use calking to fill small gaps, just check the label to see what
the
> maximum temperature exposure is. I used color-matched silicon calk around
> my slide-in range and counters and it has worked very well. Larger gaps
can
> be filled with filler strips supplied by the cabinet manufacturer. You
> might also use metal strips to trim out the area. Remember, if you use
trim
> around the range it may have to be removed to service the appliance.
>
>

On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 22:05:09 GMT, Anita P. Ness
> wrote:


>
>Never mind.....you probably can't see a grin with that scowl on your brow.
>Check your scripts....there are meds that can help your attitude.
>


Sorry, but MEM9 is right here. You think professionals
don't worry about spills? Ever hear of health inspectors?
Haven't worked in a commercial kitchen in some years
but that was part of my job description - keep the kitchen
immaculate to get those A ratings from the health inspector.
And the commercial kitchens are much easier to clean as
there are not cabinets on the side to collect the spill. You
clean it off the floor under the stove, fryer etc. The question
was a valid one and didn't require your smart alec remark.

Greg

On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 22:05:09 GMT, Anita P. Ness
> wrote:


>
>Never mind.....you probably can't see a grin with that scowl on your brow.
>Check your scripts....there are meds that can help your attitude.
>


Sorry, but MEM9 is right here. You think professionals
don't worry about spills? Ever hear of health inspectors?
Haven't worked in a commercial kitchen in some years
but that was part of my job description - keep the kitchen
immaculate to get those A ratings from the health inspector.
And the commercial kitchens are much easier to clean as
there are not cabinets on the side to collect the spill. You
clean it off the floor under the stove, fryer etc. The question
was a valid one and didn't require your smart alec remark.

Greg

"m" > wrote:

>you figure out what the difference between sealed and open burners are yet,
>newb?

Been to three "sources" to cook with various vendors. The nonworking units at
"cooktops 'r us" didn't work for me.


Glad that you mentioned this....the open burners provide a higher BTW. Will go
for that in a NY heartbeat. You are a sweetie for bringing this point up!

"m" > wrote:

>you figure out what the difference between sealed and open burners are yet,
>newb?

Been to three "sources" to cook with various vendors. The nonworking units at
"cooktops 'r us" didn't work for me.


Glad that you mentioned this....the open burners provide a higher BTW. Will go
for that in a NY heartbeat. You are a sweetie for bringing this point up!

Greg Muncill > wrote:


>Greg

sorry that you were the "clean up staff". Better luck next time.


Coming in second place only means
that you are the FIRST LOSER!

M:

I have a slide in stove and was faced with the same problem. Viking
sells as extras a couple of stainless steel strips. They are designed
to act as a cover for this gap. But for some strange reason the stove
had to be set 1/8 of an inch higher than the counter and the strips
wouldn't work.

I use a toothpick to scrape out the "stuff." Supposedly wood won't
stratch the stove finish.

Joan

M:

I have a slide in stove and was faced with the same problem. Viking
sells as extras a couple of stainless steel strips. They are designed
to act as a cover for this gap. But for some strange reason the stove
had to be set 1/8 of an inch higher than the counter and the strips
wouldn't work.

I use a toothpick to scrape out the "stuff." Supposedly wood won't
stratch the stove finish.

Joan

M:

I have a slide in stove and was faced with the same problem. Viking
sells as extras a couple of stainless steel strips. They are designed
to act as a cover for this gap. But for some strange reason the stove
had to be set 1/8 of an inch higher than the counter and the strips
wouldn't work.

I use a toothpick to scrape out the "stuff." Supposedly wood won't
stratch the stove finish.

Joan

M:

I have a slide in stove and was faced with the same problem. Viking
sells as extras a couple of stainless steel strips. They are designed
to act as a cover for this gap. But for some strange reason the stove
had to be set 1/8 of an inch higher than the counter and the strips
wouldn't work.

I use a toothpick to scrape out the "stuff." Supposedly wood won't
stratch the stove finish.

Joan

"Joan" > wrote in message
m...
> M:
>
> I have a slide in stove and was faced with the same problem. Viking
> sells as extras a couple of stainless steel strips. They are designed
> to act as a cover for this gap. But for some strange reason the stove
> had to be set 1/8 of an inch higher than the counter and the strips
> wouldn't work.
>
> I use a toothpick to scrape out the "stuff." Supposedly wood won't
> stratch the stove finish.
>

Why not get some calk and fill the gap? You can get calk in a wide range of
colors these days and it is easy and inexpensive. Silicon calk can take
temperature exposures up to 400F as I recall.

"Joan" > wrote in message
m...
> M:
>
> I have a slide in stove and was faced with the same problem. Viking
> sells as extras a couple of stainless steel strips. They are designed
> to act as a cover for this gap. But for some strange reason the stove
> had to be set 1/8 of an inch higher than the counter and the strips
> wouldn't work.
>
> I use a toothpick to scrape out the "stuff." Supposedly wood won't
> stratch the stove finish.
>

Why not get some calk and fill the gap? You can get calk in a wide range of
colors these days and it is easy and inexpensive. Silicon calk can take
temperature exposures up to 400F as I recall.

Anita P. Ness > wrote in message >. ..
> (MEM9) wrote:
>
>
> >> >We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop
>
> >Well aren't we just oh so amusing and clever. This isn't a
> >professional kitchen.
>
> Never mind.....you probably can't see a grin with that scowl on your brow.
> Check your scripts....there are meds that can help your attitude.
>
>
> The happy people are those who are producing something;
> the bored people are those who are consuming much and producing nothing.
> - - William Ralph Inge

Nice try, but your initial response to m (and your later one to
gmuncill) just shows that you don't know the difference between
placing your tongue firmly in your cheek (a well-meaning "grin"), and
sticking it out at the other person. Either that, or you need to work
on your delivery.

Anita P. Ness > wrote in message >. ..
> (MEM9) wrote:
>
>
> >> >We're doing a new kitchen with a professional rangetop
>
> >Well aren't we just oh so amusing and clever. This isn't a
> >professional kitchen.
>
> Never mind.....you probably can't see a grin with that scowl on your brow.
> Check your scripts....there are meds that can help your attitude.
>
>
> The happy people are those who are producing something;
> the bored people are those who are consuming much and producing nothing.
> - - William Ralph Inge

Nice try, but your initial response to m (and your later one to
gmuncill) just shows that you don't know the difference between
placing your tongue firmly in your cheek (a well-meaning "grin"), and
sticking it out at the other person. Either that, or you need to work
on your delivery.