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Cooking Equipment (rec.food.equipment) Discussion of food-related equipment. Includes items used in food preparation and storage, including major and minor appliances, gadgets and utensils, infrastructure, and food- and recipe-related software. |
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Hi all,
I have a chance to buy back my old Garland 6 burner cooktop as the new owners have renovated the kitchen and downgraded to a Viking. ![]() natural gas and wonder if I'll be able to get the Garland set up to use this, either through a tweak on its existing hardware, obtaining a part through Garland or using a newer part from Blue Star. I'd call the companies, but this offer just came up this weekend and I need to decide today. Thanks. -- - Kyle |
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![]() "Kyle Tucker" > wrote in message ... > Hi all, > I have a chance to buy back my old Garland 6 burner > cooktop as the new owners have renovated the kitchen and > downgraded to a Viking. ![]() > natural gas and wonder if I'll be able to get the Garland > set up to use this, either through a tweak on its existing > hardware, obtaining a part through Garland or using a newer > part from Blue Star. I'd call the companies, but this offer > just came up this weekend and I need to decide today. Thanks. > > -- > - Kyle As I recall, natural gas takes a larger orifice. So if you get really desperate you could probably drill out the ones you have. Otherwise the conversion should be simple. Most of the gas stoves sold in the US run on natural gas, I would bet. |
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On Mon, 10 Oct 2005, Del Cecchi > wrote:
>As I recall, natural gas takes a larger orifice. So if you get really >desperate you could probably drill out the ones you have. Otherwise the >conversion should be simple. I thought it was the other way around. Natural gas has more BTUs than LP. So it would seem to me to need a smaller hole. I wouldn't risk drilling anything. Buy the needed orifices. Don <www.donwiss.com> (e-mail link at home page bottom). |
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![]() "Don Wiss" > wrote in message ... > On Mon, 10 Oct 2005, Del Cecchi > wrote: > >>As I recall, natural gas takes a larger orifice. So if you get really >>desperate you could probably drill out the ones you have. Otherwise the >>conversion should be simple. > > I thought it was the other way around. Natural gas has more BTUs than > LP. > So it would seem to me to need a smaller hole. > > I wouldn't risk drilling anything. Buy the needed orifices. > > Don <www.donwiss.com> (e-mail link at home page bottom). A little google turned up http://www.altenergy.com/propaned.ht...%20Equivalents that says Propane is 2515 BTU/cubic foot, while Natural Gas (methane) is 1012, which stands to reason because Natural Gas is CH4 and Propane is C3H8 and there is the same number of molecules per unit volume. del |
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On Tue, 11 Oct 2005, Del Cecchi > wrote:
>A little google turned up >http://www.altenergy.com/propaned.ht...%20Equivalents >that says Propane is 2515 BTU/cubic foot, while Natural Gas (methane) is >1012, which stands to reason because Natural Gas is CH4 and Propane is >C3H8 and there is the same number of molecules per unit volume. So propane gives you a hotter flame? Don <www.donwiss.com> (e-mail link at home page bottom). |
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![]() "Don Wiss" > wrote in message ... > On Tue, 11 Oct 2005, Del Cecchi > wrote: > >>A little google turned up >>http://www.altenergy.com/propaned.ht...%20Equivalents >>that says Propane is 2515 BTU/cubic foot, while Natural Gas (methane) >>is >>1012, which stands to reason because Natural Gas is CH4 and Propane is >>C3H8 and there is the same number of molecules per unit volume. > > So propane gives you a hotter flame? > > Don <www.donwiss.com> (e-mail link at home page bottom). Not necessarily, because you need more air to have enough oxygen. Either one can make a hot flame. If you run propane in a natural gas device I would think you would get a yellow sooty flame. If you run natural gas in a propane device it might not even burn. and will be feeble if it does. But each makes the same btu/burner in an appropriately designed appliance. del |
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