On Thu 02 Mar 2006 05:02:09p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Melba's
Jammin'?

> In article >,
> "Dee Randall" > wrote:
>
>> Now, Wayne, I have to ask -- is your stove induction that Pyrex works
>> on -- or oh, my -- smoothtop?
>> Dee
>
> Nah, Wayne's talking about a smoothtop. Induction needs metal.

Right you are!

--
Wayne Boatwright o¿o
____________________

BIOYA

On Thu 02 Mar 2006 05:01:16p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Melba's
Jammin'?

> In article >,
> "Dee Randall" > wrote:
>
>> Does it handle Visionware (Glass)?
>> Thanks,
>> Dee
>
> Interestingly, the GE guy said they don't recommend glass cookware for
> the smoothtop. Scratching, maybe? Sorry, Dee. I don't remember.

Glass can scratch glass, but I never had a problem with Pyrex. However, I
don't tend to scoot pots around on the stovetop. If I need to move it, I
pick it up and place it back down.

--
Wayne Boatwright o¿o
____________________

BIOYA

On Thu 02 Mar 2006 05:04:42p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it pltrgyst?

> On 2 Mar 2006 22:08:53 +0100, Wayne Boatwright
> <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>... On some of
>>those cooktops, using an oversize pot, such as a 22 qt pot, will cause
>>the symptoms of overheating.
>
> We're in the throes of redoing our kitchen right now -- about $32K so
> far 8;(. We chose the GE Profile JB968 free-standing double oven model
> (http://tinyurl.com/rk8ur), in large part because the largest burner is
> a full 12 inches across. This should handle those large pots!
>
> -- Larry

Kenmore also has several models with the 12-inch burner. Those would be a
better choice, I'm sure.

--
Wayne Boatwright o¿o
____________________

BIOYA

On 3 Mar 2006 02:56:56 +0100, Wayne Boatwright
<wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote:

>On Thu 02 Mar 2006 05:01:16p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Melba's
>Jammin'?
>
>> In article >,
>> "Dee Randall" > wrote:
>>
>>> Does it handle Visionware (Glass)?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Dee
>>
>> Interestingly, the GE guy said they don't recommend glass cookware for
>> the smoothtop. Scratching, maybe? Sorry, Dee. I don't remember.
>
>Glass can scratch glass, but I never had a problem with Pyrex. However, I
>don't tend to scoot pots around on the stovetop. If I need to move it, I
>pick it up and place it back down.


I use mine as counter space when not cooking. The toaster gets pushed
back and forth, things get mixed in bowls, cutting boards are placed
there - basically, it gets treated as any other counter. It still
shines up like a mirror, albeit a deep, dark and spooky one.

Boron

"pltrgyst" > wrote in message
...
> On 2 Mar 2006 22:08:53 +0100, Wayne Boatwright
> <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>>... On some of
>>those cooktops, using an oversize pot, such as a 22 qt pot, will cause the
>>symptoms of overheating.
>
> We're in the throes of redoing our kitchen right now -- about $32K so far
> 8;(.
> We chose the GE Profile JB968 free-standing double oven model
> (http://tinyurl.com/rk8ur), in large part because the largest burner is a
> full
> 12 inches across. This should handle those large pots!
>
> -- Larry

Larry, do you mind me asking: how can you tell by looking at this page
whether it is a smooth top or induction? Does one assume that if it doesn't
say "induction," it is not induction?
Thanks,
Dee

"Steve Calvin" > wrote in message
...
> Dee Randall wrote:
>
>>
>> Maybe there should be a thread here for smoothtop vs. induction. Boy,
>> oh, boy,
>> I can't figure out what the difference is between smooth top vs.
>> induction. Can you give me some lessons.
>> You can email me if you wish or if you want to post
>> here or separately, no problem. Maybe there are others as clueless as
>> me -- and I'm getting ready to get ready for purchase.
>> Thank you.
>> Dee Dee
>
> Here's a pretty straight forward explanation Dee
>
> http://www.ece.mtu.edu/~mtromble/ind.../cooktops.html
>
>
> --
> Steve

Thanks, Steve, I've been reading a lot and this is pretty straightforward to
me, too. What is confusing to me and I'm going to have to look out for it
in my purchase is for instance, I looked at maybe 15 of ranges in Sears
(different brands), and I assumed that they were all 'induction,' now I'm
not sure what the heck they were. Now that I know induction, I'm wondering
what the heck the other ranges are that have that smooth look, so I can ask,
"Is this induction, or Is this halogen, or Is this whut! I looked at the
GE online that was referenced and I nothing about what the smooth top
actually is. I can look-see whether it is coil or gas, but the smooth top
without any further description is still beyond me.

Thanks again,
Dee

Dee Randall wrote:

>>
>>Here's a pretty straight forward explanation Dee
>>
>>http://www.ece.mtu.edu/~mtromble/ind.../cooktops.html
>>
>>
>>--
>>Steve
>
>
> Thanks, Steve, I've been reading a lot and this is pretty straightforward to
> me, too. What is confusing to me and I'm going to have to look out for it
> in my purchase is for instance, I looked at maybe 15 of ranges in Sears
> (different brands), and I assumed that they were all 'induction,' now I'm
> not sure what the heck they were. Now that I know induction, I'm wondering
> what the heck the other ranges are that have that smooth look, so I can ask,
> "Is this induction, or Is this halogen, or Is this whut! I looked at the
> GE online that was referenced and I nothing about what the smooth top
> actually is. I can look-see whether it is coil or gas, but the smooth top
> without any further description is still beyond me.
>
> Thanks again,
> Dee
>
>

Without getting real technical Dee it's difficult. If you're
a home cook then induction and halogen are gimmicks as far
as I'm concerned. Nice? Maybe. Needed? Not in my book.

If you're an average home cook like me then a "normal"
electric glasstop will serve you well. If you're a pro, then
you may want to spend the $ and look at the higher end.

--
Steve
No piece of paper can be folded in half more than 7 times.

On Thu 02 Mar 2006 07:50:33p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Dee
Randall?

>
> "Steve Calvin" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Dee Randall wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Maybe there should be a thread here for smoothtop vs. induction. Boy,
>>> oh, boy, I can't figure out what the difference is between smooth top
>>> vs. induction. Can you give me some lessons.
>>> You can email me if you wish or if you want to
>>> post here or separately, no problem. Maybe there are others as
>>> clueless as me -- and I'm getting ready to get ready for purchase.
>>> Thank you.
>>> Dee Dee
>>
>> Here's a pretty straight forward explanation Dee
>>
>> http://www.ece.mtu.edu/~mtromble/ind.../cooktops.html
>>
>>
>> --
>> Steve
>
> Thanks, Steve, I've been reading a lot and this is pretty
> straightforward to me, too. What is confusing to me and I'm going to
> have to look out for it in my purchase is for instance, I looked at
> maybe 15 of ranges in Sears (different brands), and I assumed that they
> were all 'induction,' now I'm not sure what the heck they were. Now
> that I know induction, I'm wondering what the heck the other ranges are
> that have that smooth look, so I can ask, "Is this induction, or Is this
> halogen, or Is this whut! I looked at the GE online that was
> referenced and I nothing about what the smooth top actually is. I can
> look-see whether it is coil or gas, but the smooth top without any
> further description is still beyond me.
>
> Thanks again,
> Dee

The vast majority of ranges you see will be neither halogen nor induction.
Especially in the US, if a cooktop has either of these technologies, the
description and advertising will be prominant. Another measure will be
price. Both halogen and, especially, induction will be markedly more
expensive than a convention radiant smoothtop range.



--
Wayne Boatwright o¿o
____________________

BIOYA

On Thu 02 Mar 2006 07:34:48p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Dee
Randall?

>
> "pltrgyst" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On 2 Mar 2006 22:08:53 +0100, Wayne Boatwright
>> <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>... On some of
>>>those cooktops, using an oversize pot, such as a 22 qt pot, will cause
>>>the symptoms of overheating.
>>
>> We're in the throes of redoing our kitchen right now -- about $32K so
>> far 8;(. We chose the GE Profile JB968 free-standing double oven model
>> (http://tinyurl.com/rk8ur), in large part because the largest burner is
>> a full 12 inches across. This should handle those large pots!
>>
>> -- Larry
>
> Larry, do you mind me asking: how can you tell by looking at this page
> whether it is a smooth top or induction? Does one assume that if it
> doesn't say "induction," it is not induction?
> Thanks,
> Dee

That's a good bet!

--
Wayne Boatwright o¿o
____________________

BIOYA

"Steve Calvin" > wrote in message
...
> Dee Randall wrote:
>
>>>
>>>Here's a pretty straight forward explanation Dee
>>>
>>>http://www.ece.mtu.edu/~mtromble/ind.../cooktops.html
>>>
>>>
>>>--
>>>Steve
>>
>>
>> Thanks, Steve, I've been reading a lot and this is pretty straightforward
>> to me, too. What is confusing to me and I'm going to have to look out
>> for it in my purchase is for instance, I looked at maybe 15 of ranges in
>> Sears (different brands), and I assumed that they were all 'induction,'
>> now I'm not sure what the heck they were. Now that I know induction, I'm
>> wondering what the heck the other ranges are that have that smooth look,
>> so I can ask, "Is this induction, or Is this halogen, or Is this whut!
>> I looked at the GE online that was referenced and I nothing about what
>> the smooth top actually is. I can look-see whether it is coil or gas,
>> but the smooth top without any further description is still beyond me.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> Dee
>>
>>
>
> Without getting real technical Dee it's difficult. If you're a home cook
> then induction and halogen are gimmicks as far as I'm concerned. Nice?
> Maybe. Needed? Not in my book.
>
> If you're an average home cook like me then a "normal" electric glasstop
> will serve you well. If you're a pro, then you may want to spend the $ and
> look at the higher end.
>
> --
> Steve

What sounds nice regarding induction is that the burner space doesn't get
hot; only the pan/pot/skillet gets hot vs. other smooth tops burner space
stays hot after they are turned off. Is this not the case; that the ceramic
burners/smooth tops can stay hot?

Surely there must be different types of elements under the smooth tops, and
do they all go from hot to cool instantly and varying degrees; and do the
spaces above the burner cool off immediately. If this is so, why does one
need induction.

These are questions I have and they seem answerable, but I don't know how to
get it cleared up. Now, now, microwaves to people years ago seem like a
gimmicks to many. :-))))
Dee

"Wayne Boatwright" <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote in message
28.19...
> On Thu 02 Mar 2006 07:50:33p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Dee
> Randall?
>
>>
>> "Steve Calvin" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Dee Randall wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Maybe there should be a thread here for smoothtop vs. induction. Boy,
>>>> oh, boy, I can't figure out what the difference is between smooth top
>>>> vs. induction. Can you give me some lessons.
>>>> You can email me if you wish or if you want to
>>>> post here or separately, no problem. Maybe there are others as
>>>> clueless as me -- and I'm getting ready to get ready for purchase.
>>>> Thank you.
>>>> Dee Dee
>>>
>>> Here's a pretty straight forward explanation Dee
>>>
>>> http://www.ece.mtu.edu/~mtromble/ind.../cooktops.html
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Steve
>>
>> Thanks, Steve, I've been reading a lot and this is pretty
>> straightforward to me, too. What is confusing to me and I'm going to
>> have to look out for it in my purchase is for instance, I looked at
>> maybe 15 of ranges in Sears (different brands), and I assumed that they
>> were all 'induction,' now I'm not sure what the heck they were. Now
>> that I know induction, I'm wondering what the heck the other ranges are
>> that have that smooth look, so I can ask, "Is this induction, or Is this
>> halogen, or Is this whut! I looked at the GE online that was
>> referenced and I nothing about what the smooth top actually is. I can
>> look-see whether it is coil or gas, but the smooth top without any
>> further description is still beyond me.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> Dee
>
> The vast majority of ranges you see will be neither halogen nor induction.
> Especially in the US, if a cooktop has either of these technologies, the
> description and advertising will be prominant. Another measure will be
> price. Both halogen and, especially, induction will be markedly more
> expensive than a convention radiant smoothtop range.
>

> Wayne Boatwright o¿o

Damn! No doubt out of my price range. So! then, is there a choice when you
say, "let me look at your smooth-tops" as to the question to ask, "what's
the burner-elment underneath"? ceramic, or what? Is there a big difference
as to the cooking abilities of the different elements?
Thanks, Wayne,
Dee

On Thu 02 Mar 2006 09:42:32p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Dee
Randall?

>
> "Wayne Boatwright" <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote in message
> 28.19...
>> On Thu 02 Mar 2006 07:50:33p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Dee
>> Randall?
>>
>>>
>>> "Steve Calvin" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> Dee Randall wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Maybe there should be a thread here for smoothtop vs. induction.
>>>>> Boy, oh, boy, I can't figure out what the difference is between
>>>>> smooth top vs. induction. Can you give me some lessons.
>>>>> You can email me if you wish or if you want to
>>>>> post here or separately, no problem. Maybe there are others as
>>>>> clueless as me -- and I'm getting ready to get ready for purchase.
>>>>> Thank you.
>>>>> Dee Dee
>>>>
>>>> Here's a pretty straight forward explanation Dee
>>>>
>>>> http://www.ece.mtu.edu/~mtromble/ind.../cooktops.html
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Steve
>>>
>>> Thanks, Steve, I've been reading a lot and this is pretty
>>> straightforward to me, too. What is confusing to me and I'm going to
>>> have to look out for it in my purchase is for instance, I looked at
>>> maybe 15 of ranges in Sears (different brands), and I assumed that
>>> they were all 'induction,' now I'm not sure what the heck they were.
>>> Now that I know induction, I'm wondering what the heck the other
>>> ranges are that have that smooth look, so I can ask, "Is this
>>> induction, or Is this halogen, or Is this whut! I looked at the GE
>>> online that was referenced and I nothing about what the smooth top
>>> actually is. I can look-see whether it is coil or gas, but the smooth
>>> top without any further description is still beyond me.
>>>
>>> Thanks again,
>>> Dee
>>
>> The vast majority of ranges you see will be neither halogen nor
>> induction. Especially in the US, if a cooktop has either of these
>> technologies, the description and advertising will be prominant.
>> Another measure will be price. Both halogen and, especially, induction
>> will be markedly more expensive than a convention radiant smoothtop
>> range.
>>
>
>> Wayne Boatwright o¿o
>
> Damn! No doubt out of my price range. So! then, is there a choice when
> you say, "let me look at your smooth-tops" as to the question to ask,
> "what's the burner-elment underneath"? ceramic, or what? Is there a
> big difference as to the cooking abilities of the different elements?
> Thanks, Wayne,
> Dee

First off, it depends largely on whether you want to buy a full range
(cooktop and oven) or a separate cooktop. I don't know of any domestic US
free-standing ranges that yet have induction elements in the cooktop.
Jenn-Air makes a removable 2-burner unit with halogen elements. Another
manufacturer (I forget which) has 1 halogen element, the remaining 3 being
resistance elements. There may be others, but there won't be many. That
leaves at least 99% of models that have some form of resistant element
under the glass. The two major configurations of those elements are a wire
coil and a ribbon. I don't think there's a measurable performance
difference between the two. One of the main questions you want to ask is
the wattage output of each element on the cooktop.

If you're looking for just a cooktop, then all options are available, and
more than one technology may be included in different elements on the
cooktop. The one least available in the US is an all induction cooktop
and, IME, disproportionately expensive.

Haviang said all that, the halogen and induction technologies are quite
common in European cookers, both in free-standing ranges and in separate
cooktops. They've been using them for years.

I'm not interested in either halogen or induction as the cost is beyond my
means, but I've done considerable research on free-standing ranges. One
model I'm seriously considering is a Kenmore. It has one dual 9"/12"
element, 1 high-output 9" element, 2 6" elements, and a low-output warming
zone. It does not have a bridge element, but I have no need for that.

Here's a link to that model...

http://tinyurl.com/njnvg

--
Wayne Boatwright o¿o
____________________

BIOYA

"Wayne Boatwright" <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote in message
28.19...
> On Thu 02 Mar 2006 09:42:32p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Dee
> Randall?
>
>>
>> "Wayne Boatwright" <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote in message
>> 28.19...
>>> On Thu 02 Mar 2006 07:50:33p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Dee
>>> Randall?
>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Steve Calvin" > wrote in message
>>>> ...
>>>>> Dee Randall wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>
> First off, it depends largely on whether you want to buy a full range
> (cooktop and oven) or a separate cooktop. I don't know of any domestic US
> free-standing ranges that yet have induction elements in the cooktop.
> Jenn-Air makes a removable 2-burner unit with halogen elements. Another
> manufacturer (I forget which) has 1 halogen element, the remaining 3 being
> resistance elements. There may be others, but there won't be many. That
> leaves at least 99% of models that have some form of resistant element
> under the glass. The two major configurations of those elements are a
> wire
> coil and a ribbon. I don't think there's a measurable performance
> difference between the two. One of the main questions you want to ask is
> the wattage output of each element on the cooktop.
>
> If you're looking for just a cooktop, then all options are available, and
> more than one technology may be included in different elements on the
> cooktop. The one least available in the US is an all induction cooktop
> and, IME, disproportionately expensive.
>
> Haviang said all that, the halogen and induction technologies are quite
> common in European cookers, both in free-standing ranges and in separate
> cooktops. They've been using them for years.
>
> I'm not interested in either halogen or induction as the cost is beyond my
> means, but I've done considerable research on free-standing ranges. One
> model I'm seriously considering is a Kenmore. It has one dual 9"/12"
> element, 1 high-output 9" element, 2 6" elements, and a low-output warming
> zone. It does not have a bridge element, but I have no need for that.
>
> Here's a link to that model...
>
> http://tinyurl.com/njnvg
>
> --
> Wayne Boatwright o¿o


I'm interested in what you have chosen, but the url seems to have timed out
and just goes to a sears page, not to the model you have chosen

I'm going to HAVE to have a slide-in unit, which will fit into my kitchen
counter (which I will be replacing the formica) because that is the
configuration I have now.

Thanks for the words, "some sort of resistance elements (a wire coil and a
ribbon) and to look for the wattage.: I'll keep your information; thanks
for the time to try to enlighten me.
The fog of war.
Dee

On Thu, 2 Mar 2006 21:34:48 -0500, "Dee Randall"
> wrote:

>
>"pltrgyst" > wrote in message
.. .
>> On 2 Mar 2006 22:08:53 +0100, Wayne Boatwright
>> <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>... On some of
>>>those cooktops, using an oversize pot, such as a 22 qt pot, will cause the
>>>symptoms of overheating.
>>
>> We're in the throes of redoing our kitchen right now -- about $32K so far
>> 8;(.
>> We chose the GE Profile JB968 free-standing double oven model
>> (http://tinyurl.com/rk8ur), in large part because the largest burner is a
>> full
>> 12 inches across. This should handle those large pots!
>>
>> -- Larry
>
>Larry, do you mind me asking: how can you tell by looking at this page
>whether it is a smooth top or induction? Does one assume that if it doesn't
>say "induction," it is not induction?
>Thanks,
>Dee
>

I don't think that you will find a full sized range with induction
burners. Most are 1 or 2 burner. Do a Google search and see if you
find one.
--
Susan N.

"Moral indignation is in most cases two percent moral,
48 percent indignation, and 50 percent envy."
Vittorio De Sica, Italian movie director (1901-1974

On Fri 03 Mar 2006 05:44:23a, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Dee
Randall?

>
> "Wayne Boatwright" <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote in message
> 28.19...
>> On Thu 02 Mar 2006 09:42:32p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Dee
>> Randall?
>>
>>>
>>> "Wayne Boatwright" <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote in message
>>> 28.19...
>>>> On Thu 02 Mar 2006 07:50:33p, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Dee
>>>> Randall?
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Steve Calvin" > wrote in message
>>>>> ...
>>>>>> Dee Randall wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>
>> First off, it depends largely on whether you want to buy a full range
>> (cooktop and oven) or a separate cooktop. I don't know of any domestic
>> US free-standing ranges that yet have induction elements in the
>> cooktop. Jenn-Air makes a removable 2-burner unit with halogen
>> elements. Another manufacturer (I forget which) has 1 halogen element,
>> the remaining 3 being resistance elements. There may be others, but
>> there won't be many. That leaves at least 99% of models that have some
>> form of resistant element under the glass. The two major
>> configurations of those elements are a wire coil and a ribbon. I don't
>> think there's a measurable performance difference between the two. One
>> of the main questions you want to ask is the wattage output of each
>> element on the cooktop.
>>
>> If you're looking for just a cooktop, then all options are available,
>> and more than one technology may be included in different elements on
>> the cooktop. The one least available in the US is an all induction
>> cooktop and, IME, disproportionately expensive.
>>
>> Haviang said all that, the halogen and induction technologies are quite
>> common in European cookers, both in free-standing ranges and in
>> separate cooktops. They've been using them for years.
>>
>> I'm not interested in either halogen or induction as the cost is beyond
>> my means, but I've done considerable research on free-standing ranges.
>> One model I'm seriously considering is a Kenmore. It has one dual
>> 9"/12" element, 1 high-output 9" element, 2 6" elements, and a
>> low-output warming zone. It does not have a bridge element, but I have
>> no need for that.
>>
>> Here's a link to that model...
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/njnvg
>>
>> --
>> Wayne Boatwright o¿o
>
>
> I'm interested in what you have chosen, but the url seems to have timed
> out and just goes to a sears page, not to the model you have chosen
>
> I'm going to HAVE to have a slide-in unit, which will fit into my
> kitchen counter (which I will be replacing the formica) because that is
> the configuration I have now.
>
> Thanks for the words, "some sort of resistance elements (a wire coil and
> a ribbon) and to look for the wattage.: I'll keep your information;
> thanks for the time to try to enlighten me.
> The fog of war.
> Dee

here's Kenmore's top slide-in model with many features, including a warming
drawer. Hope the link works. If not, the Sears website is very
searchable.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?
BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=APPL&pid=02246613000&s ubcat=Slide-In+Ranges



--
Wayne Boatwright o¿o
____________________

BIOYA

On Thu, 2 Mar 2006 21:34:48 -0500, "Dee Randall" > wrote:

>> We're in the throes of redoing our kitchen right now -- about $32K so far
>> 8;(.
>> We chose the GE Profile JB968 free-standing double oven model
>> (http://tinyurl.com/rk8ur), in large part because the largest burner is a
>> full
>> 12 inches across. This should handle those large pots!
>>
>> -- Larry
>
>Larry, do you mind me asking: how can you tell by looking at this page
>whether it is a smooth top or induction?

If you click on "Product Details", under "element types" you will see "5
ribbon."

> Does one assume that if it doesn't
>say "induction," it is not induction?

Yes.

After a week of use, we're quite pleased with it. We would have preferred a
slide-in model, but the slide-in equivalent didn't have the double oven, and
also had a different and much less convenient control set for the large 12/9/6"
burner.

The lower drawer oven goes from 140 deg to 450 deg, and is quite useful.

And that 12/9/6 inch element fits my monster 30cm copper saute pan (hauled back
from Dehillerin in Paris) perfectly!

The front left medium sized element, when combined with the bridge element, is
also a perfect fit for my oval pans. And all the elements have a bit more power
and smoother control gradations than the 5-yr. old GE Profile smooth top it
replaced.

Best of all, this one has almost no lip around the cooktop. The old GE profile
had almost a 1/4" lip, which interfered with many large pans and my griddle.

So far, so good!

-- Larry

In article 9>,
Wayne Boatwright <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote:

> here's Kenmore's top slide-in model with many features, including a
> warming drawer. Hope the link works. If not, the Sears website is
> very searchable.

>
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?
> BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=APPL&pid=02246613000&s ubcat=Slide-In+Ranges

LOL! About $850 more than I'm planning to spend.
--
-Barb
<www.jamlady.eboard.com> Updated 2-28-2006, Crazy Lady Party;
Church review #7

In article >,
"Peter Aitken" > wrote:
(snipped)
> How would you know with a too-large pot? You'd need to see the element
> cycling off. In any case, so what? The worst that would happen is that the
> canning bath would take slightly longer to boil.

Even heat and maintenance of psi is critical to steam pressure-canning
(specifically), though, Peter. If the psi drops below its correct
level, timing has to start all over again. "It's The Law."
--
-Barb
<www.jamlady.eboard.com> Updated 2-28-2006, Crazy Lady Party;
Church review #7

On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 09:26:20 -0600, Melba's Jammin'
> wrote:

>In article 9>,
> Wayne Boatwright <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> here's Kenmore's top slide-in model with many features, including a
>> warming drawer. Hope the link works. If not, the Sears website is
>> very searchable.
>
>>
>> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...lide-In+Ranges
>
>LOL! About $850 more than I'm planning to spend.
--
Susan N.

"Moral indignation is in most cases two percent moral,
48 percent indignation, and 50 percent envy."
Vittorio De Sica, Italian movie director (1901-1974

On Fri 03 Mar 2006 08:26:20a, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Melba's
Jammin'?

> In article 9>,
> Wayne Boatwright <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> here's Kenmore's top slide-in model with many features, including a
>> warming drawer. Hope the link works. If not, the Sears website is
>> very searchable.
>
>>
>> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?
>> BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=APPL&pid=02246613000&s ubcat=Slide-In+Ranges
>
> LOL! About $850 more than I'm planning to spend.

Do you need a slide-in? Similar features are available in a free-standing
model at significantly less cost.

--
Wayne Boatwright Õ¿Õ¬
________________________________________

Okay, okay, I take it back! UnScrew you!

Melba's Jammin' > wrote:
> In article >, wrote:
> > using big pots on them. She spills lots of sugary stuff
> > on them as well, and we've had no trouble, though I'll admit
> > there is a little etching on one burner of our home cooktop.
> > Quick cleanup of spills seems to aleviate that as I've seen
> > no evidence of etching on the two in her new kitchen.

> Thanks, Bill. What brand did you use?

The new ones are Sears Kenmore, not sure who the real
manufacturer is for those. They were on sale. ;-)

The old one at the house is a Magic Chef. It was there
when we bought the house 11 years ago.

Bill Ranck
Blacksburg, Va.

On 3 Mar 2006 18:21:30 +0100, Wayne Boatwright <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com>
wrote:

>Do you need a slide-in? Similar features are available in a free-standing
>model at significantly less cost.

The free-standing/slide-in cost differential is hard to understand.

We also considered some other pros and cons of the slide-in.

It's nice to not have to reach past hot burners and pots to adjust the controls.

While it's nice to have the controls up front, this also places them above the
oven, where they may get hot (especially if you're broiling with the door open
to the broil-stop).

Up front controls also move the cooktop back a few inches, which may be a
significant comfort factor depending on your height (I'm 6'3"+) and whether or
not you have any back problems.

And the slide-in may also have implications for your backsplash area, since the
it's much more exposed to heat.

In the end, we went with the free-standing, but it was not an easy decision. I'd
really have liked the slide-in look and the lack of gaps with our new granite
countertops.

BTW, in case anyone's considering a kitchen renovation through a jumbo store
like Lowe's or Home Depot, the blow-by-blow of our ongoing experience with Home
Depot (with pictures) is at http://www.xhost.org/kitchen. I'll be removing the
rest of the g&%$-*)#%*@ed wallpaper this weekend while my wife is off in
Colorado skiing... 8;(

-- Larry

In article >,
pltrgyst > wrote:
> BTW, in case anyone's considering a kitchen renovation through a
> jumbo store like Lowe's or Home Depot, the blow-by-blow of our
> ongoing experience with Home Depot (with pictures) is at
> http://www.xhost.org/kitchen. I'll be removing the rest of the
> g&%$-*)#%*@ed wallpaper this weekend while my wife is off in Colorado
> skiing... 8;(

> -- Larry

You have my deepest sympathies, Larry. My stomach was knotting up while
I was reading your blog.
--
-Barb
<www.jamlady.eboard.com> Updated 2-28-2006, Crazy Lady Party;
Church review #7

In article 9>,
Wayne Boatwright <wayneboatwright_at_gmail.com> wrote:

> On Fri 03 Mar 2006 08:26:20a, Thus Spake Zarathustra, or was it Melba's
> Jammin'?

> > LOL! About $850 more than I'm planning to spend.
>
> Do you need a slide-in? Similar features are available in a free-standing
> model at significantly less cost.

I do. It's also my preference.
--
-Barb
<www.jamlady.eboard.com> Updated 2-28-2006, Crazy Lady Party;
Church review #7

"pltrgyst" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 2 Mar 2006 21:34:48 -0500, "Dee Randall" >
> wrote:
>
>>> We're in the throes of redoing our kitchen right now -- about $32K so
>>> far
>>> 8;(.
>>> We chose the GE Profile JB968 free-standing double oven model
>>> (http://tinyurl.com/rk8ur), >>> -- Larry
>>
>>Larry, do you mind me asking: how can you tell by looking at this page
>>whether it is a smooth top or induction?
>
> If you click on "Product Details", under "element types" you will see "5
> ribbon."
>
So, if you see ribbon, the word, "ribbon" means it is not induction, right?
*******

>
> The front left medium sized element, when combined with the bridge
> element, is
> also a perfect fit for my oval pans. > -- Larry



Larry, I've been studying your choice and reading the manual, but I see
under "Product Details," it says that the bridge element is 800w, whereas
the other elements a
6" 1500w 1 ribbon;
tri-ring 3000w 1 ribbon;
7" element (2 ribbon) 1800w

Do you know why the bridge element is only 800watts?

And the 7" element is '2' ribbon vs. '1' ribbon? does it mean that there are
2 ribbons at 900w

When it says tri-ring 3000 1 ribbon, do you think that means that each ring
is 1000w?

I guess I'm getting too technical, perhaps, but am trying to understand the
specs.
Thanks,
Dee

On Sat, 4 Mar 2006 10:58:30 -0500, "Dee Randall" > wrote:


>So, if you see ribbon, the word, "ribbon" means it is not induction, right?

Right.

>Larry, I've been studying your choice and reading the manual, but I see
>under "Product Details," it says that the bridge element is 800w, whereas
>the other elements a
>6" 1500w 1 ribbon;
>tri-ring 3000w 1 ribbon;
>7" element (2 ribbon) 1800w
>
>Do you know why the bridge element is only 800watts?

Because it covers only a very small, irregularly-shaped area between the two 7"
elements.

>And the 7" element is '2' ribbon vs. '1' ribbon? does it mean that there are
>2 ribbons at 900w

No, it means there are two 7" burners at 1800w each.

>When it says tri-ring 3000 1 ribbon, do you think that means that each ring
>is 1000w?

No, it means the large burner can be set with a switch to be either 12", 9", or
6" in diameter, and its maximum is 3000 watts at the 12" setting.

-=- Larry

On Sat, 04 Mar 2006 07:32:05 -0600, Melba's Jammin'
> wrote:

>> BTW, in case anyone's considering a kitchen renovation through a
>> jumbo store like Lowe's or Home Depot, the blow-by-blow of our
>> ongoing experience with Home Depot (with pictures) is at
>> http://www.xhost.org/kitchen. I'll be removing the rest of the
>> g&%$-*)#%*@ed wallpaper this weekend while my wife is off in Colorado
>> skiing... 8;(
>
>You have my deepest sympathies, Larry. My stomach was knotting up while
>I was reading your blog.

Thanks. It will be nice when it's finished, but it has been a lot more
aggravating than we anticipated.

-- Larry

"Melba's Jammin'" wrote >


>> > Anything you hate about it?
>>
>> You have to be extra careful with rough-bottomed, cast iron pots & pans,
>> even Le Creuset.
>
> Understood.
>
> Thanks for the input.
> --
> -Barb

My Kenmore manual also warns against shaking the pan - you know, the way
chefs vigorously shake the pan back and forth on the burner. Seems you
might scratch the surface.
I have a free-standing Kenmore model similar to the setup you're looking
at - two 6" burners in the back, plus two large burners in the front, one
with an integral 6" burner as well. The range also has a warming burner.

The stove is very easy to clean - you're also told to wipe up sugary spills
right away. My only wish is that the two large burners were in the back,
since my range hood won't carry off the steam/fumes from the front burners.

Dora

"pltrgyst" > wrote in message
...
> On Sat, 04 Mar 2006 07:32:05 -0600, Melba's Jammin'
> > wrote:
>
>>> BTW, in case anyone's considering a kitchen renovation through a
>>> jumbo store like Lowe's or Home Depot, the blow-by-blow of our
>>> ongoing experience with Home Depot (with pictures) is at
>>> http://www.xhost.org/kitchen. I'll be removing the rest of the
>>> g&%$-*)#%*@ed wallpaper this weekend while my wife is off in Colorado
>>> skiing... 8;(
>>
>>You have my deepest sympathies, Larry. My stomach was knotting up while
>>I was reading your blog.
>
> Thanks. It will be nice when it's finished, but it has been a lot more
> aggravating than we anticipated.
>
> -- Larry

Larry, I've been reading your blog a while. We bought a water-heater from
Home Depot about 18 months ago and it's been replaced twice. We went
without a heater about 10-14 days each time. I would say that a lot of that
down-time was due to their scheduling, which is a term for just about
everything that will go wrong in getting two things together at one time.
DH is pretty knowledgeable about some things (an engineer) and used to
working with repair people all his work-life and very successful at it. But
listening to all the scheduling shenanigans made me not that anxious in
getting counter-tops, a new stove and new flooring at the same time.

BTW, I like your countertop choice. Can you tell me what it is?
Oh, forgot, I like the handles, too, on your cabinets.
Thanks,
Dee

On Sat, 4 Mar 2006 13:27:15 -0500, "limey" > wrote:

>.... My only wish is that the two large burners were in the back,
>since my range hood won't carry off the steam/fumes from the front burners.

You don't really wish that -- you need those burners up front for best control
while sauteing, etc. What you should be wishing for is a better range hood. 8

Look, for example, at the air control pattern for the Broan Allure III, which
blows a little air out just in front of the front burners and sucks it back in
along with the front burner effluent.

I just bought my second Allure III, and they've changed the design slightly to
make that air current loop even more effective, at capacities up to 430CFM. It
works really well.

-- Larry

On Sat, 4 Mar 2006 14:06:39 -0500, "Dee Randall" > wrote:

>Larry, I've been reading your blog a while. We bought a water-heater from
>Home Depot about 18 months ago and it's been replaced twice. We went
>without a heater about 10-14 days each time.

Wow, that's a long time, especially considering places like Sears that do
next-day replacements. You'd expect HD to be able to match that, especially on
replacements.

>I would say that a lot of that
>down-time was due to their scheduling, which is a term for just about
>everything that will go wrong in getting two things together at one time.

That sounds very similar to the delay factors we're dealing with.

>BTW, I like your countertop choice. Can you tell me what it is?

It's granite, in a color pattern Home Depot calls Dakota Bordeaux (see
http://www.countertopcollections.com/material.html, about a third of the way
down.) Strangely enough, my employer just moved into a new campus, and the
elevator floors and bathroom counters are *extremely* similar to our
countertops. But no, I am not tempted to change ours. 8

>Oh, forgot, I like the handles, too, on your cabinets.

Thanks. They're standard Euro bar pulls, available in a variety of lengths,
thickness, and finish. I chose all stainless ones rather than nickel-plated, and
by far the best prices I found were at coolknobsandpulls.com. The specific link
is:
http://www.coolknobsandpulls.com/cab...bar-pulls.html
(or http://tinyurl.com/f268h).

We used #8000-3 (4-1/2 long) on the small doors, #8000-4 (5-9/16 long) on all
other doors, #8000-192 (10-5/8 long) on 24" drawers, and #8000-448 (20-3/4 long)
on the single 30" drawer. All the bars are 1/2" diameter.

-- Larry

>
>>BTW, I like your countertop choice. Can you tell me what it is?
>
> It's granite, in a color pattern Home Depot calls Dakota Bordeaux (see
> http://www.countertopcollections.com/material.html, about a third of the
> way
> down.) Strangely enough, my employer just moved into a new campus, and the
> elevator floors and bathroom counters are *extremely* similar to our
> countertops. But no, I am not tempted to change ours. 8

Maybe that would be overdoing it? I'm not much on decorating, so I couldn't
say, but it is extremely attractive.


>
>>Oh, forgot, I like the handles, too, on your cabinets.
>
> Thanks. They're standard Euro bar pulls, available in a variety of
> lengths,
> thickness, and finish. I chose all stainless ones rather than
> nickel-plated, and
> by far the best prices I found were at coolknobsandpulls.com. The specific
> link
> is:
> http://www.coolknobsandpulls.com/cab...bar-pulls.html
> (or http://tinyurl.com/f268h).
>
> We used #8000-3 (4-1/2 long) on the small doors, #8000-4 (5-9/16 long) on
> all
> other doors, #8000-192 (10-5/8 long) on 24" drawers, and #8000-448 (20-3/4
> long)
> on the single 30" drawer. All the bars are 1/2" diameter.
>
> -- Larry
>
Thanks, Larry, for providing me with all the information.
'tis very much appreciated,
Dee

"pltrgyst" wrote in message

limey wrote:
>
>>.... My only wish is that the two large burners were in the back,
>>since my range hood won't carry off the steam/fumes from the front
>>burners.
>
> You don't really wish that -- you need those burners up front for best
> control
> while sauteing, etc. What you should be wishing for is a better range
> hood. 8
>
> Look, for example, at the air control pattern for the Broan Allure III,
> which
> blows a little air out just in front of the front burners and sucks it
> back in
> along with the front burner effluent.
>
> I just bought my second Allure III, and they've changed the design
> slightly to
> make that air current loop even more effective, at capacities up to
> 430CFM. It
> works really well.
>
> -- Larry

Great tip. I'll check it out. Thanks!

Dora

In article >,
Melba's Jammin' > wrote:

> Damn! I've got an offer in to the manager of the appliance store where
> I expect to buy. She's got a smooth top and my offer includes the whole
> friggin' batch of strawberry jam for her if she'll let me try to make it
> on her unit. I haven't heard back from her so I'm not holding my
> breath.

The "Maytag Stores" make a deal out of "try it before you buy it".
There's one in Minnetonka. I know Maytag isn't GE, and, frankly, I
would not recommend buying Maytag, but they have smoothtop
electrics. If it's a proof of concept you're looking for, it might
do.

Maytag Store 11300 Wayzata Blvd Hopkins MN (952) 544-0155

sd

On Sun, 05 Mar 2006 08:14:09 -0600, me > wrote:

>.... I know Maytag isn't GE, and, frankly, I
>would not recommend buying Maytag, but they have smoothtop
>electrics.

You do know that Maytag (which might shortly merge with Whirlpool) is the same
company that makes Kitchen Aid, Jenn-Air, and several other brands, right?

-- Larry

"Melba's Jammin'" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> "Dee Randall" > wrote:
>
>> Does it handle Visionware (Glass)?
>> Thanks,
>> Dee
>
> Interestingly, the GE guy said they don't recommend glass cookware for
> the smoothtop. Scratching, maybe? Sorry, Dee. I don't remember.
> --
> -Barb


Re-reading these postings after a month, I had forgotten that you had said
this. However, I've been using a small visionware (glass) pot just about
every-other day. So far it has not exploded. Maybe it has scratched the
glass, but I can't tell.
Thanks, Barb.
Dee