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General Cooking (rec.food.cooking) For general food and cooking discussion. Foods of all kinds, food procurement, cooking methods and techniques, eating, etc. |
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Michael "Dog3" Lonergan wrote:
> From the NYT: > > A pic of the chicken http://i11.tinypic.com/42ul5ee.jpg > > PET a Silkie chicken and you understand how it got its name. The feathers > are fine and flutter in wisps in the breeze. > > At Sapa, Patricia Yeo serves black-skinned chicken in a dark soy sauce. > With a walnut-shaped crown of plumage, blue earlobes and feathers that come > in a variety of colors, it’s a striking-looking bird that’s often raised > for show. > > Breeders also like them because they will hatch other birds’ eggs. > > “They are such good moms,” said Frank R. Reese Jr., the founder of Good > Shepherd Turkey Ranch in Lindsborg, Kan., who breeds Silkies for show. > “They’ll sit on anything and hatch anything. They’ll hatch ducks, turkeys, > chickens.” > > Deprived of their striking outerwear, though, Silkies are far less > appealing. They have bluish-gray skin, pitch-black bones and dark beige > flesh (they’re sometimes called black-skinned chickens). They’re a scrawny > pound or two, plucked, and are usually sold with the head and feet attached > (with five toes, not the usual four). > > Yet Asian cooks love them for their deep, gamy flavor, even in the breast > meat. And with the nation’s Asian population growing, sales have soared. > > Murray McMurray Hatchery in Webster City, Iowa, sells about 10,000 Silkies > a year, up from a few hundred 10 years ago, when the hatchery first started > raising the little birds, said Bud Wood, an owner. > > “The majority are sold for ornamental purposes, but there’s a big market in > San Francisco, where there are Asians, and in Minneapolis, where there’s a > Hmong market,” Mr. Wood said. Japanese, Cambodians and Koreans also eat the > Silkie, he said. > > At K. K. Live Poultry in Brooklyn’s main Chinatown, Danny Wu, the owner, > said he sells, butchers and cleans 3,000 Silkies a week, up from 400 a week > 10 years ago. He attributes the growth to the number of Chinese moving from > China and Taiwan to New York City. > > > “They make it for soup, or for the broth for Mongolian hot pot,” he said, > “and sometimes they make a curry.” For chefs outside Chinatown, though, it > is not the easiest dish to sell. > > “It’s a scary-looking creature,” said Patricia Yeo, of Sapa in Chelsea. She > said she has her staff describe it as a deeply flavored, lean, free-range > chicken. > > She compares the Silkie to the blue-foot chicken, the domestic version of > the poulet de Bresse of France; the blue-foot costs twice as much as the > Silkie, she said. And unlike the blue-foot, the Silkie is rarely roasted. > > In an Asian home, most often a Silkie will be made into a deeply flavored, > aromatic, amber-colored soup, simmered or steamed with ginger, ginseng, > dried wolfberries and dried red dates, also known as jujubes. The broth is > usually served clear, but occasionally it has bits of meat in it. (A recipe > can be found at nytimes.com/dining.) > > In China, the Silkie is called wu gu ji — black-boned chicken. It has been > prized for its medicinal value since the seventh or eighth century, said Yu > Ying-Shih, a retired professor of Chinese and East Asian studies at > Princeton University. Women who have just given birth eat it for energy. > But its curative powers are not necessarily gender-specific. > > When Professor Yu was a small boy growing up in Anhui, in southeastern > China, he said, because he had constant headaches, he was given bowls of > Silkie chicken soup to make the headache go away. > > Did the soup work? > > “I don’t know,” he said, “but probably it helped.” > > That same soup can be ordered a day in advance at some restaurants in > Manhattan’s Chinatown, like Oriental Garden and Danny Ng’s. > > Cooked in the traditional way, with ginseng, the soup has a hint of > bitterness. Without ginseng, it is simply an addictive, intensely flavored > broth. > > Yvonne L. C. Wong, an art consultant and trustee of the China Institute, > makes her variation of the soup with Virginia ham, wolfberries, dried white > yam, preserved orange peel and ginger. It may be to the Chinese what > chicken soup is to Jews — liquid penicillin. > > Ms. Yeo slow-cooks the chickens in curries and other braises. When she was > growing up in Cambridge, England, she remembers, her grandmother visited > from Kuala Lumpur and made the family the traditional Chinese soup in a > clay pot. > > For her black-skinned chicken slow-cooked in dark soy sauce at Sapa, Ms. > Yeo braises the quartered chicken in a dark, aromatic sauce that includes > onions, garlic, ginger, galangal, chilies, wolfberries, Chinese dried red > dates, soy sauce and star anise. > > “My secret ingredient?” she said, as she ran upstairs from the restaurant > pantry to the kitchen. “Coke!” She said she substitutes it for the > traditional rock sugar, because she likes Coke’s caramel flavor. She > braises the chicken the night before she puts it on the menu, as a special, > because it, like nearly all braised dishes, tastes better the next day. > > At the Jefferson Restaurant in Greenwich Village, Simpson Wong takes an > even more European turn. He cooks the Silkie leg and thigh as a confit in > olive oil, seasoned with garlic and rosemary, for six hours, and does a > quick sauté of the tender breast meat in a savory sauce of garlic, ginger, > rice wine lees, oyster sauce and lemon balm. > > At Chow Bar in Greenwich Village, Peter Klein serves slow-cooked black > chicken in red Thai coconut sauce. He also slow-cooks it, shreds the meat > and mixes it with an Asian barbecue sauce. Then he stuffs it into toasted > Chinese bread, along with paper-thin slices of cucumber and a sprinkle of > fresh cilantro leaves. > > Mr. Klein asks his staff to describe the chicken as particularly fresh and > lean. > > “We try not to go into great detail,” he said. “The American public is a > little squeamish.” > > Where to Buy > > Silkie chickens can be found in the following shops: > > BAYARD MEAT MARKET 57 Bayard Street, (212) 619-6206. > > DELUXE FOOD MARKET 79 Elizabeth Street, (212) 925-5766. > > DYNASTY SUPERMARKET 68 Elizabeth Street, (212) 966-4943. Also sells all the > other ingredients needed for the soup. > > K. K. LIVE POULTRY 6221 Sixth Avenue, Brooklyn, (718) 439-3838. > > Michael Very interesting, Michael...I think that I am a lil squeamish too... Aloha...tutu |
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