For a couple of years I've been diddling around with a plan to travel
from Houston to Mississippi stopping at every joint, eatery and
restaurant along the Gulf coast to sample their version of remoulade.
The idea is to research remoulade in all its iterations, permutations
and variations in as much of Acadiana and its environs as can be
reasonably toured in the time available to me to see what can be
learned about this noble gustatory pleasure for the benefit of all
humankind.

Well for the benefit of part of humankind, anyway.

For me, okay?

I've had homemade remoulade in a sleepy little town north of Baton
Rouge -- a gift from my grandmother's neighbor, who also (34 years
ago) gave D and me a Creole cookbook with a remoulade recipe in it as
our wedding present. I've had remoulade in a place in Pointe Coupee
Parish, at my uncle Leon's place in Gretna, at Fitzgerald's on a pier
on Lake Ponchartrain (now destroyed), in a dive in New Orleans, in an
upscale restaurant in New Orleans, in Lake Charles, in Houston, even.
Each time it was different. Each time it was GOOD.

I yearn to understand remoulade. I crave remoulade wisdom. To be one
with remoulade is surely a path to happiness, an escape from
dreariness, a promise of delight. There is a purpose in remoulade.

I mentioned the idea in passing to my sister last Christmas, and it
appears to have taken root in her imagination. Last night, she called
to plan our trip to Baton Rouge to see our parents, and the Remoulade
Tour began again to materialize in our conversation. My sister is
getting serious about this. It looks like this as of tonight: later
this summer D, sister, and I will haul our remoulade-craving bellies
down along the coast on a test run of the Remoulade Tour as we make
our way from Texas to Baton Rouge. We'll probably only be able to
stop at three or four places this time out, but we'll be able to test
The Great Remoulade Hypothesis (TGRH) if only in a very limited way.

TGRH: Even though every iteration of remoulade is different in
deliciously noticeable ways from all other iterations, all remoulade
is good.

I plan to shoot pictures and take notes.

Evidence arrived today in support of the scheme in the form of a late
birthday present from D. _The Hog Island Oyster Cookbook_ was in our
mailbox this afternoon, and in it was a recipe for -- you know. I
guess we'll have to visit California next. And French remoulade is
entirely different from it siblings on this side of the Atlantic.

It could become quite a tour indeed.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"modom (palindrome guy)" <moc.etoyok@modom> wrote in
:

> It could become quite a tour indeed.
>

Acadian food trip requires visiting Nova Scotia Canada...where the Acadians
began.

--

The house of the burning beet-Alan

It'll be a sunny day in August, when the Moon will shine that night-
Elbonian Folklore

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 09:58:17 GMT, hahabogus > wrote:

>"modom (palindrome guy)" <moc.etoyok@modom> wrote in
:
>
>> It could become quite a tour indeed.
>>
>
>Acadian food trip requires visiting Nova Scotia Canada...where the Acadians
>began.

Do they also have remoulade?

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

modom (palindrome guy) wrote:

> On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 09:58:17 GMT, hahabogus > wrote:
>
>
>>"modom (palindrome guy)" <moc.etoyok@modom> wrote in
m:
>>
>>
>>>It could become quite a tour indeed.
>>>
>>
>>Acadian food trip requires visiting Nova Scotia Canada...where the Acadians
>>began.
>
>
> Do they also have remoulade?
>
I thought the Brits deported all the Acadians in the 1700's! They aren't
all in Louisiana, some are in Maine, some in Rhode Island, and in other
areas where they were dropped off. I live in SW Louisiana and there are
still a bunch around here for sure. Unfortunately the Cajun language is
dying out.

George

modom (palindrome guy) wrote:
> For a couple of years I've been diddling around with a plan to travel
> from Houston to Mississippi stopping at every joint, eatery and
> restaurant along the Gulf coast to sample their version of remoulade.
> The idea is to research remoulade in all its iterations, permutations
> and variations in as much of Acadiana and its environs as can be
> reasonably toured in the time available to me to see what can be
> learned about this noble gustatory pleasure for the benefit of all
> humankind.

(interesting post snipped for brevity)

The company where I worked for many years before I retired has a large
plant in Lake Charles, La. I treasure a cookbook given me from the
manager there, which contains a recipe for remoulade (just another one
for your collection):

REMOULADE SAUCE

2 tbs tarragon vinegar
2 tbs hot mustard
1 1/2 tsp hoseradish
3 teaspoons paprika
2 tbs catsup
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
2 green onions and tops, finely chopped
1 tbs parsley, minced
2 nchovies
1 hard-boiled egg, mashed

Combine vinegar with mustard, horseradish and seasonings in food
processor. Gradually add oil and blend well. Add celery, green onions,
parsley, egg and anchovies. Pour over boiled shrimp and chill for
several hours. When ready to serve, mix well and serve on shredded
letuce. Serves four.

Source: The Official Louisiana Seafood and Wild Game Cookbook,
Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries, published 1985

Have fun on your tour, modom!

Dora

limey wrote:

> REMOULADE SAUCE
>
> 2 tbs tarragon vinegar
> 2 tbs hot mustard
> 1 1/2 tsp hoseradish
> 3 teaspoons paprika
> 2 tbs catsup
> salt and pepper to taste
> 1/2 cup olive oil
> 1 stalk celery, finely chopped
> 2 green onions and tops, finely chopped
> 1 tbs parsley, minced
> 2 nchovies
> 1 hard-boiled egg, mashed
>
> Combine vinegar with mustard, horseradish and seasonings in food
> processor. Gradually add oil and blend well. Add celery, green onions,
> parsley, egg and anchovies. Pour over boiled shrimp and chill for
> several hours. When ready to serve, mix well and serve on shredded
> letuce. Serves four.
>
> Source: The Official Louisiana Seafood and Wild Game Cookbook,
> Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries, published 1985
>
> Have fun on your tour, modom!
>
> Dora

Thanks for the recipe.

Becca

Another Remoulade Sauce Recipe-from The River Road Recipes-1973

4 Tbs lemon juice 1/2 Tsp black pepper
4 Tbs vinegar 2 Tsp paprika
4 Tbs prepared mustard Dash cayenne
4 Tbs prepared horseradish 2 Tbsp catsup(optional)
2tsp salt 1 cup salad oil
1/2 cup
celery,chopped fine
1/2 cup green
onions,minced

Combine lemon juice,vinegar(tarragon, if you have it) and seasonings.
Gradually add oil.Stir with a fork or rotary beater to blend well.Add celery
and onion. Makes 2 cups.

On Jun 23, 1:37 pm, "limey" > wrote:

> The company where I worked for many years before I retired has a large
> plant in Lake Charles, La. I treasure a cookbook given me from the
> manager there, which contains a recipe for remoulade (just another one
> for your collection):
>
> REMOULADE SAUCE
>
> 2 tbs tarragon vinegar
> 2 tbs hot mustard
> 1 1/2 tsp hoseradish
> 3 teaspoons paprika
> 2 tbs catsup
> salt and pepper to taste
> 1/2 cup olive oil
> 1 stalk celery, finely chopped
> 2 green onions and tops, finely chopped
> 1 tbs parsley, minced
> 2 nchovies
> 1 hard-boiled egg, mashed
>
> Combine vinegar with mustard, horseradish and seasonings in food
> processor. Gradually add oil and blend well. Add celery, green onions,
> parsley, egg and anchovies. Pour over boiled shrimp and chill for
> several hours. When ready to serve, mix well and serve on shredded
> letuce. Serves four.
>
> Have fun on your tour,modom!
>
> Dora

Thanks! I'll try the recipe tonight.

modom

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 21:13:32 GMT, "Uecho" > wrote:

>Another Remoulade Sauce Recipe-from The River Road Recipes-1973
>
>4 Tbs lemon juice 1/2 Tsp black pepper
>4 Tbs vinegar 2 Tsp paprika
>4 Tbs prepared mustard Dash cayenne
>4 Tbs prepared horseradish 2 Tbsp catsup(optional)
>2tsp salt 1 cup salad oil
> 1/2 cup
>celery,chopped fine
> 1/2 cup green
>onions,minced
>
>Combine lemon juice,vinegar(tarragon, if you have it) and seasonings.
>Gradually add oil.Stir with a fork or rotary beater to blend well.Add celery
>and onion. Makes 2 cups.
>
The odd thing here is that I have that cookbook. It was a present
when D and I got married. Of course it's falling apart, and most of
the index is missing now. BTW, doesn't the original RRR version of
this recipe call green onions "shallots"? That usage was a source of
confusion in my early days of cooking, as I recall.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Uecho wrote:

> Another Remoulade Sauce Recipe-from The River Road Recipes-1973
>
> 4 Tbs lemon juice 1/2 Tsp black pepper
> 4 Tbs vinegar 2 Tsp paprika
> 4 Tbs prepared mustard Dash cayenne
> 4 Tbs prepared horseradish 2 Tbsp catsup(optional)
> 2tsp salt 1 cup salad oil
> 1/2 cup
> celery,chopped fine
> 1/2 cup green
> onions,minced
>
> Combine lemon juice,vinegar(tarragon, if you have it) and seasonings.
> Gradually add oil.Stir with a fork or rotary beater to blend well.Add celery
> and onion. Makes 2 cups.
>
>
Here's August Escoffier's instructions, just FYI...

Sauce Remoulde
--------------

To 4 & 1/2 cups mayonnaise add and mix in 1 & 1/2 tbs. mustard, 3 & 1/2
ounces chopped gherkins, 2 ounces capers chopped and squeezed to remove
the liquid, 1 tbs. mixed chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil, and 1/2
tbs. anchovy essence. [use less whole anchovy or anchovy paste]

--------------


Personally i prefer a...


Sauce Gribiche
--------------

Place the yolks of 6 freshly cooked hard boiled eggs in a basin, crush
them and work t a smooth paste adding 1 tsp.. mustard and a pinch of
salt and pepper, then proceed in the usual way way as for mayonnaise by
adding 2 & 1/4 cups oil and 1 & 1/2 tbs. vinegar.

Finish the sauce with 3 & 1/2 ounces mixed chopped capers and gherkins;
1 tbs. mixed chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil; and the whites of 3
hard boiled eggs cut into short.
--
JL

River Road Cookbook 1973.

My book shows green onions in this and every recipe calling for same.

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 14:50:29 -0700, Joseph Littleshoes
> wrote:

>Here's August Escoffier's instructions, just FYI...
>
>Sauce Remoulde
>--------------
>
>To 4 & 1/2 cups mayonnaise add and mix in 1 & 1/2 tbs. mustard, 3 & 1/2
>ounces chopped gherkins, 2 ounces capers chopped and squeezed to remove
>the liquid, 1 tbs. mixed chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil, and 1/2
>tbs. anchovy essence. [use less whole anchovy or anchovy paste]
>
>Personally i prefer a...
>
>
>Sauce Gribiche
>--------------
>
>Place the yolks of 6 freshly cooked hard boiled eggs in a basin, crush
>them and work t a smooth paste adding 1 tsp.. mustard and a pinch of
>salt and pepper, then proceed in the usual way way as for mayonnaise by
>adding 2 & 1/4 cups oil and 1 & 1/2 tbs. vinegar.
>
>Finish the sauce with 3 & 1/2 ounces mixed chopped capers and gherkins;
>1 tbs. mixed chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil; and the whites of 3
>hard boiled eggs cut into short.

Thanks, JL. The Gribiche looks particularly tasty. In Acadiana,
remoulade has morphed into something quite different from its French
cousin. The Cajuns wound up there in the middle of the 18th century
after getting kicked out of Canada, and their cuisine has had a long
time to develop independently of what happened in France. Cajun
andouille is also quite distinct from sausages called by that name in
France.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

modom (palindrome guy) wrote:

> The odd thing here is that I have that cookbook. It was a present
> when D and I got married. Of course it's falling apart, and most of
> the index is missing now. BTW, doesn't the original RRR version of
> this recipe call green onions "shallots"? That usage was a source of
> confusion in my early days of cooking, as I recall.

My mother has a collection of River Road Recipe books, starting in the
50's. I will ask her about the cookbooks, I would love to see them again.

Becca

In article >,
"modom (palindrome guy)" <moc.etoyok@modom> wrote:

> For a couple of years I've been diddling around with a plan to travel
> from Houston to Mississippi stopping at every joint, eatery and
> restaurant along the Gulf coast to sample their version of remoulade.
> The idea is to research remoulade in all its iterations, permutations
> and variations in as much of Acadiana and its environs as can be
> reasonably toured in the time available to me to see what can be
> learned about this noble gustatory pleasure for the benefit of all
> humankind.

I salute you, Sir! It is rare in this day for someone to step up. The
'someone else can do it' attitude is all too pervasive. Create a need
and fill it! Let them eat remoulade! Go, Modom - go, Modom - go Modom!
Done properly, you could probably get a paper published for a handsome
or generous fee (generous being enough to cover expenses, handsome
having some left over).
--
-Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ
http://www.jamlady.eboard.com
http:/http://www.caringbridge.org/visit/amytaylor/

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 16:31:05 -0500, "modom (palindrome guy)"
<moc.etoyok@modom> wrote:

>On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 21:13:32 GMT, "Uecho" > wrote:
>
>>Another Remoulade Sauce Recipe-from The River Road Recipes-1973
>>
>>4 Tbs lemon juice 1/2 Tsp black pepper
>>4 Tbs vinegar 2 Tsp paprika
>>4 Tbs prepared mustard Dash cayenne
>>4 Tbs prepared horseradish 2 Tbsp catsup(optional)
>>2tsp salt 1 cup salad oil
>> 1/2 cup
>>celery,chopped fine
>> 1/2 cup green
>>onions,minced
>>
>>Combine lemon juice,vinegar(tarragon, if you have it) and seasonings.
>>Gradually add oil.Stir with a fork or rotary beater to blend well.Add celery
>>and onion. Makes 2 cups.
>>
>The odd thing here is that I have that cookbook. It was a present
>when D and I got married. Of course it's falling apart, and most of
>the index is missing now. BTW, doesn't the original RRR version of
>this recipe call green onions "shallots"? That usage was a source of
>confusion in my early days of cooking, as I recall.

My book is the 13th printing in 1966 and says green onions.
--
Susan N.

"Moral indignation is in most cases two percent moral,
48 percent indignation, and 50 percent envy."
Vittorio De Sica, Italian movie director (1901-1974)

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 06:22:25 -0500, The Cook >
wrote:
>
>My book is the 13th printing in 1966 and says green onions.

That's two to one. Obviously, I remember wrong. In fact, I just
checked mine (29th printing, 1972) and I did remember wrong.

OBRemoulade: I made some last night from Dora's recipe. It was well
received. Thanks, Dora.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Jun 23, 6:19 pm, Melba's Jammin' >
wrote:
> In article >,
> "modom (palindrome guy)" <moc.etoyok@modom> wrote:
>
> > For a couple of years I've been diddling around with a plan to travel
> > from Houston to Mississippi stopping at every joint, eatery and
> > restaurant along the Gulf coast to sample their version of remoulade.
> > The idea is to research remoulade in all its iterations, permutations
> > and variations in as much of Acadiana and its environs as can be
> > reasonably toured in the time available to me to see what can be
> > learned about this noble gustatory pleasure for the benefit of all
> > humankind.
>
> I salute you, Sir! It is rare in this day for someone to step up. The
> 'someone else can do it' attitude is all too pervasive. Create a need
> and fill it! Let them eat remoulade! Go, Modom - go, Modom - go Modom!
> Done properly, you could probably get a paper published for a handsome
> or generous fee (generous being enough to cover expenses, handsome
> having some left over).
> --
> -Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJhttp://www.jamlady.eboard.com
> http:/http://www.caringbridge.org/visit/amytaylor/

I'll join the cheering section (yay!) and also offer some data for use
in the appendix of your upcoming publication. A few years ago it
struck me that remoulade, one of my favorite dressings, was like
chile or cioppino. It seems to have as many variants as there are
cooks and this intrigued me so I decided to investigate. I was able
to find about 20 recipes in my collection asa well as the UCDavis
library.
One thing I did was compile a table of all the ingredients in the
recipes based on their frequency of use. For reasons that I forget, I
divided the data into two table, one for Louisiana and one for the
U.S. and Europe. The recipes go back as far as about 1900. So, here
it is:

REMOULADE USA & FRANCE (W/O LOUISIANA)

mayonnaise 9
capers 9
herbs 9
sour pickles 8
anchovy 7
prepared mustard 6
parsley 6
vinegar 2
boiled egg 2
tabasco/cayenne 2
chives 2
oil 1
Lea & Perrins 1
shallots 1
garlic 1
lemon 1


REMOULADE (LA)

prepared mustard 10
vinegar 9
parsley 8
scallions 8
oil 7
horseradish 7
tabasco/cayenne 7
celery 7
paprika 7
mayonnaise 6
garlic 5
Lea & Perrins 4
catsup/chilisauce 4
onion 4
lemon 4
dry mustard 3
herbs 3
bell pepper 1

So there!
D.M.

On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 19:21:59 -0700, "D.A.Martinich" >
wrote:

>I'll join the cheering section (yay!) and also offer some data for use
>in the appendix of your upcoming publication. A few years ago it
>struck me that remoulade, one of my favorite dressings, was like
>chile or cioppino. It seems to have as many variants as there are
>cooks and this intrigued me so I decided to investigate. I was able
>to find about 20 recipes in my collection asa well as the UCDavis
>library.
>One thing I did was compile a table of all the ingredients in the
>recipes based on their frequency of use. For reasons that I forget, I
>divided the data into two table, one for Louisiana and one for the
>U.S. and Europe. The recipes go back as far as about 1900. So, here
>it is:
>
>REMOULADE USA & FRANCE (W/O LOUISIANA)
>
>mayonnaise 9
>capers 9
>herbs 9
>sour pickles 8
>anchovy 7
>prepared mustard 6
>parsley 6
>vinegar 2
>boiled egg 2
>tabasco/cayenne 2
>chives 2
>oil 1
>Lea & Perrins 1
>shallots 1
>garlic 1
>lemon 1
>
>
>REMOULADE (LA)
>
>prepared mustard 10
>vinegar 9
>parsley 8
>scallions 8
>oil 7
>horseradish 7
>tabasco/cayenne 7
>celery 7
>paprika 7
>mayonnaise 6
>garlic 5
>Lea & Perrins 4
>catsup/chilisauce 4
>onion 4
>lemon 4
>dry mustard 3
>herbs 3
>bell pepper 1
>
>So there!
>D.M.

So there, indeed. That's quite an impressive remoulade rundown you
have there. Do you have the total numbers of remoulade recipes for
each list? It's be nice to see what percentage of the total called
for mayonnaise vs oil, and if any called for both, for example.
--

modom

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Jun 28, 2:03 pm, "modom (palindrome guy)" <moc.etoyok@modom> wrote:
> So there, indeed. That's quite an impressive remoulade rundown you
> have there. Do you have the total numbers of remoulade recipes for
> each list? It's be nice to see what percentage of the total called
> for mayonnaise vs oil, and if any called for both, for example.
> --
>
> modom

Unfortunately, I don't have each recipe transcribed, but, I think
there was one with both oil and mayo. But, don't trust my memory, I
did this in the late 90's. I do have the totals and sources. I'll
let you calculate the percentages ;=].

10 sources for Europe and USA-

HC Horizon Cookbook-a history of food
PC The New Professional Chef by the C.I.A.- a contemporary reference
GC Gourmet Cookbook I & II- from Gourmet mag in the 50's
LG Larousse Gastronomique- French reference from the 30's
GI Great Italian Cooking- Italian/continental from the 60's
RO Raymond Oliver's La Cuisine- French standards from the 60's
CR Charles Ranhoffer's The Epicurean- by the chef at Delminico's, 1894
JC Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking, 1961
JB The James Beard Cookbook, 1959
RB The Joy of Cooking, 1964 edition


12 sources for Louisiana-

B1 Nataniel Burton, from Creole Feast, 1978- NOLA restaurant chefs.
B2 as above
CR Sherman Crayton, as above
KI Charles Kirkland, as above
EV Louis Evans, as above
BL Chistopher Blake's Red Beans and Ricely Yours- 1975
JL1 Junior League of Lafayette Inc, Talk About Good!- 1969
JL2 as above
JL3 as above
RR Rima & Richard Collin, New Orleans Cooking- 197?


D.A.Martinich wrote:
> One thing I did was compile a table of all the ingredients in the
> recipes based on their frequency of use. For reasons that I forget, I
> divided the data into two table, one for Louisiana and one for the
> U.S. and Europe. The recipes go back as far as about 1900. So, here
> it is:
>

It would be interesting to develop a map based on the overlap of
ingredients--the more common ingredients two versions have, the closer
they would be in the map. Kind of like a sociogram. Maybe call it a
remouladogram. Just an idea.

-bwg

> REMOULADE USA & FRANCE (W/O LOUISIANA)
>
> mayonnaise 9
> capers 9
> herbs 9
> sour pickles 8
> anchovy 7
> prepared mustard 6
> parsley 6
> vinegar 2
> boiled egg 2
> tabasco/cayenne 2
> chives 2
> oil 1
> Lea & Perrins 1
> shallots 1
> garlic 1
> lemon 1
>
>
> REMOULADE (LA)
>
> prepared mustard 10
> vinegar 9
> parsley 8
> scallions 8
> oil 7
> horseradish 7
> tabasco/cayenne 7
> celery 7
> paprika 7
> mayonnaise 6
> garlic 5
> Lea & Perrins 4
> catsup/chilisauce 4
> onion 4
> lemon 4
> dry mustard 3
> herbs 3
> bell pepper 1
>
> So there!
> D.M.

On Fri, 29 Jun 2007 20:01:32 -0700, -bwg > wrote:

>D.A.Martinich wrote:
>> One thing I did was compile a table of all the ingredients in the
>> recipes based on their frequency of use. For reasons that I forget, I
>> divided the data into two table, one for Louisiana and one for the
>> U.S. and Europe. The recipes go back as far as about 1900. So, here
>> it is:
>>
>
>It would be interesting to develop a map based on the overlap of
>ingredients--the more common ingredients two versions have, the closer
>they would be in the map. Kind of like a sociogram. Maybe call it a
>remouladogram. Just an idea.
>
I love the way your mind works. This could morph into some sort of
ethnographic/culinary/conceptual art masterpiece.

Maybe.
--

modom

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com