Hi-
I planted a 2 yr. old walnut tree in my yard this spring.
It has done fairly well, but there are two issues I am concerned with.

1) Some of the leaves are dried up and/or yellow. Anyone know the
cause of this? Anything I can do about it?

2) The orchard that sold me the tree cut off the top at some point.
Nothing ever re-sprouted from the top. Should I seal it off somehow
or just let it be?

I posted some pictures at the below link.
http://picasaweb.google.com/leonard76

Any suggestions on resoliving those issues or anything I can do to
help it grow would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all the help,
Ryan

On Sep 3, 12:15*pm, Sue > wrote:
> Hi-
> I planted a 2 yr. old walnut tree in my yard this spring.
> It has done fairly well, but there are two issues I am concerned with.
>
> 1) Some of the leaves are dried up and/or yellow. *Anyone know the
> cause of this? *Anything I can do about it?
>
> 2) *The orchard that sold me the tree cut off the top at some point.
> Nothing ever re-sprouted from the top. *Should I seal it off somehow
> or just let it be?
>
> I posted some pictures at the below link.http://picasaweb.google.com/leonard76
>
> Any suggestions on resoliving those issues or anything I can do to
> help it grow would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks for all the help,
> Ryan

Current recommendation - never use any sealer on a plant or tree
injury, because it prevents the cambian from re-growth. Never. Why
did the nursery cut off the top? Is it an English walnut or black
walnut?

Ask the nursery who sold it to you why the leaves are yellow;
incidentally, it's starting to be fall-like around here (Iowa) (you
don't say where you are) and deciduous trees lose their leaves. My
river birch has already started shedding, but it will be a couple
months before the gingko and tulip trees shed their leaves. They're
all different, and it depends on the weather.

N.

Good points.

I live in Massachusetts.
Leaves have not yet started turning, and this starting happening a few
weeks back.
Some of them are more dried up than turning yellow.

It is an English Walnut grafted onto a black walnut root.
Best of both worlds hopefully.

They cut the top off so they could ship it to me.

Thanks'
Ryan

On Sep 3, 8:04*pm, Sue > wrote:
> Good points.
>
> I live in Massachusetts.
> Leaves have not yet started turning, and this starting happening a few
> weeks back.
> Some of them are more dried up than turning yellow.
>
> It is an English Walnut grafted onto a black walnut root.
> Best of both worlds hopefully.
>
> They cut the top off so they could ship it to me.

I have a black walnut and a couple of English walnuts. The
black walnut loses its leaves early, starting about this time of
year. The English walnuts lose their leaves late, usually in late
October or early November. (This is in Michigan.)

It sounds like your tree is stressed. Is it getting the right amount
of water? Too much is as bad as too little, and the symptoms
can look the same (yellow and then drying leaves). Your picture
also looks as if the leaves are spotty, which might be a fungal or
insect problem.

Cindy Hamilton

On Sep 3, 7:04*pm, Sue > wrote:
> Good points.
>
> I live in Massachusetts.
> Leaves have not yet started turning, and this starting happening a few
> weeks back.
> Some of them are more dried up than turning yellow.
>
> It is an English Walnut grafted onto a black walnut root.
> Best of both worlds hopefully.
>
> They cut the top off so they could ship it to me.
>
> Thanks'
> Ryan

I've never heard of a nursery lopping off the top (what would likely
be the main trunk) of a tree to ship it. Was it one of those outfits
that advertise in weekly flyers?

I made a typo earlier - the growth layer of a tree is the "cambium."
My fingers misbehaved on the keyboard.

N.

On Sep 3, 1:15�pm, Sue > wrote:
> Hi-
> I planted a 2 yr. old walnut tree in my yard this spring.
> It has done fairly well, but there are two issues I am concerned with.
>
> 1) Some of the leaves are dried up and/or yellow. �Anyone know the
> cause of this? �Anything I can do about it?
>
> 2) �The orchard that sold me the tree cut off the top at some point.

On Sep 4, 9:05�am, Nancy2 > wrote:
> On Sep 3, 7:04�pm, Sue > wrote:
>
> > Good points.
>
> > I live in Massachusetts.
> > Leaves have not yet started turning, and this starting happening a few
> > weeks back.
> > Some of them are more dried up than turning yellow.
>
> > It is an English Walnut grafted onto a black walnut root.
> > Best of both worlds hopefully.
>
> > They cut the top off so they could ship it to me.
>
> > Thanks'
> > Ryan
>
> I've never heard of a nursery lopping off the top (what would likely
> be the main trunk) of a tree to ship it. �

Not only normal but advisable. Severe pruning of young saplings
ensure dense side growth and root development. It's far more
advantageous to promote prolific branching, increased trunk diameter,
and a more developed root system than rapid tall spindly growth... the
tree will be stronger, healthier, and will look better. The growth
rate of trees is most rapid during their first ten years, that's the
most important period for shaping the tree to achieve its maximum
growth. When the tree is ready it will send up a new leader. For the
most attractive specimen trees it may be necesary to lop off the
leader two more times over the first ten years.

Black walnut becomes a very large tree, it's not advisable on the
typical house lot.

http://www.hort.uconn.edu/Plants/j/jugnig/jugnig1.html

On Sep 4, 12:06*pm, Sheldon > wrote:
> On Sep 4, 9:05 am, Nancy2 > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sep 3, 7:04 pm, Sue > wrote:
>
> > > Good points.
>
> > > I live in Massachusetts.
> > > Leaves have not yet started turning, and this starting happening a few
> > > weeks back.
> > > Some of them are more dried up than turning yellow.
>
> > > It is an English Walnut grafted onto a black walnut root.
> > > Best of both worlds hopefully.
>
> > > They cut the top off so they could ship it to me.
>
> > > Thanks'
> > > Ryan
>
> > I've never heard of a nursery lopping off the top (what would likely
> > be the main trunk) of a tree to ship it.
>
> Not only normal but advisable. *Severe pruning of young saplings
> ensure dense side growth and root development. *It's far more
> advantageous to promote prolific branching, increased trunk diameter,
> and a more developed root system than rapid tall spindly growth... the
> tree will be stronger, healthier, and will look better. *The growth
> rate of trees is most rapid during their first ten years, that's the
> most important period for shaping the tree to achieve its maximum
> growth. *When the tree is ready it will send up a new leader. *For the
> most attractive specimen trees it may be necesary to lop off the
> leader two more times over the first ten years.
>
> Black walnut becomes a very large tree, it's not advisable on the
> typical house lot.
>
> http://www.hort.uconn.edu/Plants/j/jugnig/jugnig1.html- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I disagree, but that isn't unusual. I have several "very large" trees
on my urban lot - love them, plenty of space for them, great shade for
the west side (front) of my house.

Black walnut trees are beautiful and proper growth can be controlled
without taking the top off. For one thing, doing so is likely to
unbalance the tree, so if it doesn't sprout a new main center trunk
that can grow fast enough to keep up with the weight of side branches,
the side branches will put too much weight on the remaining trunk, and
the tree will split in half. I've seen it happen.

N.

Thanks for all the advice. It sounds like the tree is doing ok then.

Anyone know how much water is too much?
I water it twice a day for about 20 minutes at a slow trickle (on the
same timer as my sprinkler in the front yard)

I recognize that it may one day be too big for the lot, but the trees
look so nice, and I do love walnuts (although hopfeully I will also
love them in 5 years, or however long it takes them to bear fruit.)

Thanks again
Ryan

"Sue" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks for all the advice. It sounds like the tree is doing ok then.
>
> Anyone know how much water is too much?
> I water it twice a day for about 20 minutes at a slow trickle (on the
> same timer as my sprinkler in the front yard)
>
> I recognize that it may one day be too big for the lot, but the trees
> look so nice, and I do love walnuts (although hopfeully I will also
> love them in 5 years, or however long it takes them to bear fruit.)
>
> Thanks again
> Ryan


Sounds like a classic case of overwatering to me.

Sit back, relax, enjoy your tree.

I love Walnut for grilling beef, but your tree is safe from my chainsaw.


TFM® - Growing palms in the vicinity of said chainsaw...

On Sep 4, 7:47*pm, Sue > wrote:
> Thanks for all the advice. *It sounds like the tree is doing ok then.
>
> Anyone know how much water is too much?
> I water it twice a day for about 20 minutes at a slow trickle (on the
> same timer as my sprinkler in the front yard)
>
> I recognize that it may one day be too big for the lot, but the trees
> look so nice, and I do love walnuts (although hopfeully I will also
> love them in 5 years, or however long it takes them to bear fruit.)
>
> Thanks again
> Ryan

Too much water. Probably a slow trickle for several hours, once a
week, would be enough - they are very drought-resistant and do best in
well-drained soil.

This is from Wikipedia, which isn't always correct, you know, but is a
start - your county extension office would have more information for
you.

"Walnuts are very attractive trees in parks and large gardens. Walnut
trees are easily propagated from the nuts. Seedlings grow rapidly on
good soils.[6] The Japanese Walnut in particular is grown for its huge
leaves, which have a 'tropical' appearance.

"As garden trees they have some drawbacks, in particular the falling
nuts, and the releasing of the allelopathic compound juglone, though a
number of gardeners do grow them.[5] [6] However, different walnut
species vary in the amount of juglone they release from the roots and
fallen leaves - the black walnut in particular is known for its
toxicity. [7] Juglone is toxic to plants such as tomato, apple, and
birch and may cause stunting and death of nearby vegetation. Juglone
appears to be one of the walnut's primary defence mechanisms against
potential competitors for resources (water, nutrients and sunlight),
and its effects are felt most strongly inside the tree's "drip
line" (the circle around the tree marked by the horizontal distance of
its outermost branches). However, even plants at a seemingly great
distance outside the drip line can be affected, and juglone can linger
in the soil for several years even after a walnut is removed as its
roots slowly decompose and release juglone into the soil."

Nancy2 > wrote in

oups.com:

> "As garden trees they have some drawbacks, in particular
> the falling nuts, and the releasing of the allelopathic
> compound juglone, though a number of gardeners do grow
> them.[5] [6] However, different walnut species vary in the
> amount of juglone they release from the roots and fallen
> leaves - the black walnut in particular is known for its
> toxicity. [7] Juglone is toxic to plants such as tomato,
> apple, and birch and may cause stunting and death of nearby
> vegetation. Juglone appears to be one of the walnut's
> primary defence mechanisms against potential competitors
> for resources (water, nutrients and sunlight), and its
> effects are felt most strongly inside the tree's "drip
> line" (the circle around the tree marked by the horizontal
> distance of its outermost branches). However, even plants
> at a seemingly great distance outside the drip line can be
> affected, and juglone can linger in the soil for several
> years even after a walnut is removed as its roots slowly
> decompose and release juglone into the soil."

i can vouch for the dangers of falling black walnuts. they're
about the size & density of a baseball, falling from 40 feet
or so...
if you do want an understory plant for black walnut, dogwoods
seem to grow very well under walnuts. i have one large one
within 2 feet of my larger (70') black walnut, so well under
the dripline & it's thriving. it's about half the age of the
walnut.
lee
--
Last night while sitting in my chair
I pinged a host that wasn't there
It wasn't there again today
The host resolved to NSA.

On Sep 4, 8:47*pm, Sue > wrote:
> Thanks for all the advice. *It sounds like the tree is doing ok then.
>
> Anyone know how much water is too much?
> I water it twice a day for about 20 minutes at a slow trickle (on the
> same timer as my sprinkler in the front yard)
>
> I recognize that it may one day be too big for the lot, but the trees
> look so nice, and I do love walnuts (although hopfeully I will also
> love them in 5 years, or however long it takes them to bear fruit.)
>
> Thanks again
> Ryan

You're watering short and shallow, not a good thing for your lawn or
your tree. For the lawn, recommendations are 1" of water per week.
During severe drought and high heat, 1" twice a week. Measure by
placing tuna cans around the area the sprinkler covers, and see how
long it takes for the specified amount of water to accumulate. For
trees and shrubs, it's based on the size of the rootball for the first
year, after that, only if they look stressed.

You say you're in MA? Maples start turning around there in late
August, (look along the highway), saplings first. We've had a very
wet summer, and lots of plants are showing signs of fungus and
mildew. Your tree, with only small amounts of dying leaves confined
to single branchlets, looks otherwise fine.

Pictures in the links that Sheldon provided show trees with a single
leader and what appears to have been pruned leaders for encouraging
side growth and multiple leaders (I forget if there's another term for
that).

Handsome trees. Black walnuts put out a chemical that kills
everything underneath them, altho hostas IIRC can survive it.

maxine in ri