Crabs Benedictine

"The story goes that the monks in some monastery of the Benedictine
order in France discovered in the course of their meditations and
experiments on refinements of the calm pleasures of the refectory, that
crabs as well as chickens might be milk fed, and since that happy day
full many a tender young crustacean has been torn from its seaweed bed,
to be drowned luxuriously in rich custard or eggnog sauce as a prelude
to immolation on the gridiron.

The ancient recipe of the brothers of the black cowl prescribes a bath
of milk and eggs for the selected young soft shell crabs that are to be
treated in the Benedictine manner. The crabs are washed, but not
dressed or killed, and then they are placed in a deep bowl and immersed
in a rich mixture of beaten eggs and milk, and left to enjoy or lament
their peculiar fate for at least three hours. If the bowl is full and
the victim lively, a heavy cover should be provided to guard against a
break for liberty.

After the ablution the crabs are drained and dressed as usual; the
pulpy substance is torn from the undersides of the shell points, and the
apron stripped from the lower shell. Then they are dredged lightly in
flour seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in well beaten eggs, covered
with finely sifted bread crumbs and fried to a golden brown in a kettle
of hot oil or lard. Drain on absorbent paper and serve at once in a
nest of crisp fried curled parsley (sprigs of clean parsley, dried,
dipped into a light batter sprig by sprig, plunged into hot deep fat and
removed at once) dotted here and there with small lemon or lime quarters.

This writer knows little enough of the physiology of crabs, but is
satisfied by repeated experiences and demonstrations, that they do
imbibe enough of the egg and milk to retain an appreciable quantity in
their tissues; and he has evolved some refinements in the honored
tradition of the epicurean friars as follows:

Crabs Epicurean Friars Style

Instead of using merely eggs and milk as indicated in Crabs Benedictine
a rich, unsweetened eggnog bath is prepared as follows:

One pint of French Cognac, 1/2 pint of Jamaica rum, 1/2 cup each of
applejack (apple brandy) and peach brandy, 12 fresh eggs, separated, 2
quarts milk, or equal parts milk and thin cream or undiluted evaporated
milk, 1 tsp. of salt and freshly grated nutmeg. Beat the yolks until
light; gradually beat in the French brandy so as to cook the egg yolks;
then the combined other liquors. Now, gradually beat in the cold milk
or combined milk and thin cream; lastly, fold in the stiffly beaten egg
whites flavored to taste with nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Instead of rum, you may substitute sherry, madeira, or marsala, using
no other liquor -- that is, use about 1 pint of either.

No large quantity of the eggnog is needed if the crabs are packed
closely in a deep earthenware or enameled or porcelain vessel. But do
not use aluminum or copper utensils. Cover with a heavy plate and weight.

During the usual cleaning operations, the crabs are handled gently,
without pressure or squeezing, and dredged with seasoned flour as soon
as possible, then well covered with beaten egg and fresh sifted crumbs
of bread crusts. The frying basket and the kettle of good cooking oil
complete the process to perfection, and a Benedictine abbot could ask
nothing better than a serving with crisp watercress and quartered lemons.

In these days of budgets and lightly equipped kitchens and kitchenettes,
the deep kettle and the wire frying basket are not very common utensils;
nor is olive oil bought in gallons by American families, unless they
have learned that there is thrift and health in its use. Crabs,
however, even for Benedictine or Epicurean Friars fashion, may be cooked
quite satisfactorily in the frying pan, without immersion, if they are
sauteed carefully in plenty of butter, oil or fat. Turn and shuffle
them about deftly with a spatula, to avoid burning and drying, and brown
them as evenly as possible. Maitre d'Hotel butter, sauce tartare and
sauce ravigote are the first thoughts for crabs, but for the delicate
flavour of those fattened on egg and sherry or other wine or cordial or
liqueur, a simple Maitre d'Hotel butter is the safest thing."

From a private collection of recipes by a former head chef of the
Waldorf Astoria hotel, New York City, circa 1920.

My own experience with these recipes is that while delicious and well
worth trying they are more of what i would make as a 'party' food, or
for some special occasion. The former rather than the latter is quite
good and worth experimenting with.
---
JL