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I'm pretty good at desserts, but custards still vex me.
Maybe there's a trick I'm not getting, or my definition of, say, boil, is different than what the cookbook is telling me. For instance, yesterday I made a dacquoise. For the most part, it came out very well, but I think I can do better on the custard part. Here's the pertinent part of the recipe: _________________________ 1. bring 2 cups half-and-half just to a boil in a large saucepan over medium heat, then turn off the heat, reserve. 2. in a mixer, whip 8 yolks, 1 tsp vanilla and 1/2 cup granulated sugar for about 4 minutes. when you lift the mixer blade, the mixture should form a thick ribbon. slowly mix in 1/2 cup all purpose flour until well combined. (me - I've learned that when the mixer is done to get a spatula and ensure that all of the flower has been well incorporated. Sometimes the beater forces some flour to the bottom or side and makes a kind of sludge.) 3. add 1 cup of the hot half-and-half to the bowl and mix well. 4. turn the heat to medium again under the pan of half-and half. Showly, mixing constantly, pour the yolk mixture into the saucepan. Bring just to a boil, stirring the entire time. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Allow to cool. Pour into abowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use. _________________________ Maybe the book's concept of boil on point 4 is different than mine, but to me, it seems to congeal long before it comes to what I consider a boil. I've tried whipping it with a whisk rather than use a spoon, but I find too much sticks to the corners or the pan and begins to become something close to scrambled eggs. Should the H&H mixture be closer to a boil before I start pouring in the yolk mixture? (generally I boil the H&H first, take it off the heat and cover it, then prepare the yolks and temper the yolks with the H&H and THEN turn on the stove again. So, usually, 15 or so minutes have passed since the H&H was on the flame.) Anyone else have any secrets of the custard trade? For the record, my custards almost always taste good, and rarely curdle, but it's usually a bit lumpy and I know I can do better. Many thanks! PS - btw, apart from cooking the egg yolks, why does one want to boil milk/cream/H&H in custards and other simialr desserts? What chemical process occurs that aids in the cooking that you wouldn't have if you just used cold dairy? |
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