Bob Pastorio wrote:

> Let's start by defining "chopping." Using a European-style cleaver to
> hack through bones and cartilage and the meat connected to it. This is
> a forceful chop.

Ah, 30 years of vegetarianism has made my brain soft, and I didn't think
of butchering. I guess I think of that as disjointing rather than
chopping. "Cutting boards" do just fine with the chopping I do.
blacksalt

kalanamak wrote:

> Bob Pastorio wrote:
>
>>Let's start by defining "chopping." Using a European-style cleaver to
>>hack through bones and cartilage and the meat connected to it. This is
>>a forceful chop.
>
> Ah, 30 years of vegetarianism has made my brain soft, and I didn't think
> of butchering. I guess I think of that as disjointing rather than
> chopping.

Except that butchering also means cutting *through* bones, not just
opening the joints. Disjointing is knifework as opposed to cleaver work.

"Cutting boards" do just fine with the chopping I do.

I'd expect so with veggies.

Pastorio

Katra wrote:

> Cleanliness is next to godliness, or so the saying goes. <G>
> I just use hot soapy dishwater with a dash of bleach mixed in.
> Keeps all my dishes (and cutting boards) disinfected.

That's kind of harsh on wooden boards. And I don't like the residual
bleach flavor that I can taste even with a 50 parts per million solution.

I still like the peroxide/white vinegar wash. Pour from separate
bottles and wipe. Sterile.

> Honestly, are there really any advantages of using plastic vs. wood
> boards?

A matter of suiting yourself. If it takes care of your needs, whatever
you're using is the best thing.

Pastorio

In article >,
Bob Pastorio > wrote:

> Katra wrote:
>
> > Cleanliness is next to godliness, or so the saying goes. <G>
> > I just use hot soapy dishwater with a dash of bleach mixed in.
> > Keeps all my dishes (and cutting boards) disinfected.
>
> That's kind of harsh on wooden boards. And I don't like the residual
> bleach flavor that I can taste even with a 50 parts per million solution.

It evaporates. ;-)
I don't wash the board until I'm done, and I cut my veggies first and
the meat last. Like the scallion, chicken and shrimp dish I made last
night and served over rice cooked in shrimp bullion. Shallots take
longer to cook anyway so they are simmering in the olive oil and butter
while I'm cutting up the chicken. The shrimp went in last.

Still teaching dad to cook. <G> He saw me walking over and stirring the
shrimp into the mix every couple of minutes for even cooking and he
suggested I just put the iron lid over it and let it steam!

Aggghhhhhhh!!! That's a good way to overcook good tiger shrimps and make
them tough!

Anyway, I washed the board after the chicken was cut up, then it gets to
dry overnight.

>
> I still like the peroxide/white vinegar wash. Pour from separate
> bottles and wipe. Sterile.

Yes, vinegar IS a good disinfectant, but working in a lab like I do, I
know that bleach is really the only disinfectant that kills
_everything_, including the AIDS virus, on contact. That is what we use
for human blood spills at work.
Vinegar is not as quick, and neither is peroxide.

Just a personal preference. ;-)

>
> > Honestly, are there really any advantages of using plastic vs. wood
> > boards?
>
> A matter of suiting yourself. If it takes care of your needs, whatever
> you're using is the best thing.
>
> Pastorio

Ah, good. I'll stick with my beloved oak boards then! <G>

K.

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

>Katra wrote:
>
>Ah, good. I'll stick with my beloved oak boards then! <G>

Oak is a lousy choice for cutting boards, checks and splits... are you sure
yours isn't maple? There are many woods that are excellent for cutting boards,
ie. beech, sycamore, etc., but oak is about the worst possible choice.

One of the best preservative treatments for cutting boards and other wooden
kitchenware is to apply a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax... this concoction
can be purchased at most any hardware emporium.


---= BOYCOTT FRENCH--GERMAN (belgium) =---
---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =---
Sheldon
````````````
"Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation."

In article >,
(PENMART01) wrote:

> >Katra wrote:
> >
> >Ah, good. I'll stick with my beloved oak boards then! <G>
>
> Oak is a lousy choice for cutting boards, checks and splits... are you sure
> yours isn't maple? There are many woods that are excellent for cutting
> boards,
> ie. beech, sycamore, etc., but oak is about the worst possible choice.
>
> One of the best preservative treatments for cutting boards and other wooden
> kitchenware is to apply a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax... this
> concoction
> can be purchased at most any hardware emporium.
>
> Sheldon

Odd... My oldest oak cutting board belonged to mom, and is over 30 years
old. Just has the usual minor knife scores.

Maybe you bought cheap oak?

You have to watch the grain. Finer grained woods are going to be harder,
and avoid knots.

K.

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

In rec.food.cooking, sf > wrote:

> The problem with those flat "boards" is that juices can run
> off.

If I'm cutting into a juicy roast, I use my carving board. But for raw
meat, a plastic board works great.

--
....I'm an air-conditioned gypsy...

- The Who

In rec.food.cooking, Katra > wrote:

> Honestly, are there really any advantages of using plastic vs. wood
> boards?

You can put them in the dishwasher (if you have one).


--
....I'm an air-conditioned gypsy...

- The Who

In rec.food.cooking, sf > wrote:
> >
> > They're not THAT bad. I have a couple of them that I use for raw meat.
> > I throw them in the dishwaser the moment I get done using them. That
> > keeps the counter clean, and keeps my main maple butcher's block
> > reasonably sanitary.

> How are they on your knife blade?

I dunno. They seem much softer than the carbon steel, so I imagine that
they are OK.

--
....I'm an air-conditioned gypsy...

- The Who

Katra wrote:

> In article >,
> Bob Pastorio > wrote:

>>I still like the peroxide/white vinegar wash. Pour from separate
>>bottles and wipe. Sterile.
>
> Yes, vinegar IS a good disinfectant, but working in a lab like I do, I
> know that bleach is really the only disinfectant that kills
> _everything_, including the AIDS virus, on contact. That is what we use
> for human blood spills at work.
> Vinegar is not as quick, and neither is peroxide.

Understand. But there's a synergistic effect that's very interesting.
Separately, the kills are good. Together you get to much higher log
kills. Everybody's surprised, but it's cool.

> Just a personal preference. ;-)

Understand. Might want to look at some of these:
http://www.hi-tm.com/Documents/Cutboard.html
http://www.hi-tm.com/Documents/Countertops.html

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cohous.../6647?source=1

It includes some nice discussion about wood versus plastic and what to
sanitize with, he
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cohousing-L/message/6647?source=1>

Bleach has lost favor in foodservice because of its residual smell and
flavor and because other things have been show to be as or more
effective, depending on the application.

Pastorio

wrote:
>
> In rec.food.cooking, Katra > wrote:
>
> > Honestly, are there really any advantages of using plastic vs. wood
> > boards?
>
> You can put them in the dishwasher (if you have one).
>
I had one melt (get uneven) in my hot Bosch.
blacksalt

>From: Bob Pastorio

>Bleach has lost favor in foodservice because of its residual smell and
>flavor and because other things have been show to be as or more
>effective, depending on the application.
>
>Pastorio

Now here's where I pop in with my .02 worth. Why not use products made from
Grapefruit Seed Extract?

Ellen

>(SportKite1)
>
>Now here's where I pop in with my .02 worth. Why not use products made from
>Grapefruit Seed Extract?

It's the pits.


---= BOYCOTT FRENCH--GERMAN (belgium) =---
---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =---
Sheldon
````````````
"Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation."

> wrote:
>In rec.food.cooking, sf > wrote:
>> > They're not THAT bad. I have a couple of them that I use for raw meat.
>> > I throw them in the dishwaser the moment I get done using them. That
>> > keeps the counter clean, and keeps my main maple butcher's block
>> > reasonably sanitary.
>
>> How are they on your knife blade?
>
>I dunno. They seem much softer than the carbon steel, so I imagine that
>they are OK.

The hard plastic boards are crap. Slippery when wet and
harder on knives than hardwood. Even worse is glass.

The softer plastic boards are great. I have three and I
want to get another large one, but this time with a moat
on one side, because on the medium one that has a moat is
barely big enough for a spatchcocked chicken.

--Blair
"Such a hassle, huh."

On Tue, 06 Jan 2004 03:16:58 GMT, Blair P. Houghton >
wrote:

> this time with a moat
> on one side, because on the medium one that has a moat is
> barely big enough for a spatchcocked chicken.

I'm having a hard time visualizing this.... isn't a moat a
ditch or groove?


Practice safe eating - always use condiments

In article >, sf
> writes:

> Blair P. Houghton wrote:
>
>> this time with a moat
>> on one side, because on the medium one that has a moat is
>> barely big enough for a spatchcocked chicken.
>
>I'm having a hard time visualizing this.... isn't a moat a
>ditch or groove?

Carving boards are generally constructed with chanelling grooves and a resevoir
for collecting meat juices.


---= BOYCOTT FRENCH--GERMAN (belgium) =---
---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =---
Sheldon
````````````
"Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation."

In rec.food.cooking, Blair P. Houghton > wrote:

> The hard plastic boards are crap. Slippery when wet and
> harder on knives than hardwood. Even worse is glass.

I agree. I have one that is made from styrene or something like that. I
never use it. I don't even understand glass as a cutting board material.

> The softer plastic boards are great. I have three and I
> want to get another large one, but this time with a moat
> on one side, because on the medium one that has a moat is
> barely big enough for a spatchcocked chicken.

Just be careful putting super-hot food on them. I'm always a little
concerned when I take food right off an 800 degree grill and put it on the
plastic.


--
....I'm an air-conditioned gypsy...

- The Who

> wrote:
>In rec.food.cooking, Blair P. Houghton > wrote:
>> The softer plastic boards are great. I have three and I
>> want to get another large one, but this time with a moat
>> on one side, because on the medium one that has a moat is
>> barely big enough for a spatchcocked chicken.
>
>Just be careful putting super-hot food on them. I'm always a little
>concerned when I take food right off an 800 degree grill and put it on the
>plastic.

Never happens. First, 800 degrees? Jealous, I am. I get
about 650-700. Second, I use a regular stoneware platter
right off the grill, because it's the biggest I have and
it can take all the meat and veggies at once; then I carry
it into the house and put things where they're going.

--Blair
"I need to make the slaves row faster."

On 07 Jan 2004 14:08:31 GMT, (PENMART01)
wrote:

> In article >, sf
> > writes:
>
> > Blair P. Houghton wrote:
> >
> >> this time with a moat
> >> on one side, because on the medium one that has a moat is
> >> barely big enough for a spatchcocked chicken.
> >
> >I'm having a hard time visualizing this.... isn't a moat a
> >ditch or groove?
>
> Carving boards are generally constructed with chanelling grooves and a resevoir
> for collecting meat juices.
>
IMO, those tiny grooves aren't good enough. I want a better
way to contain juices and the meat itself... because I'm not
the most careful of carriers, so I need a lip on the plate.
I also want my plate to serve as a cutting board. Is that
so hard to ask? Why does that seem impossible today? Is it
because so many people have been brainwashed into thinking a
little groove around the outside of a flat board is the only
option?


Practice safe eating - always use condiments

In rec.food.cooking, Blair P. Houghton > wrote:

> Never happens. First, 800 degrees? Jealous, I am. I get
> about 650-700.

I'm estimating. I use harwood charcoal on a Weber Kettle. I don't really
know how hot it gets. But people that use ceramic grills like a Kamado or
BGE claim that they can attain temps over 1000F.



--
....I'm an air-conditioned gypsy...

- The Who

EskWIRED typed:
> In rec.food.cooking, Blair P. Houghton > wrote:
>
>> Never happens. First, 800 degrees? Jealous, I am. I get
>> about 650-700.
>
> I'm estimating. I use harwood charcoal on a Weber Kettle. I don't really
> know how hot it gets. But people that use ceramic grills like a Kamado or
> BGE claim that they can attain temps over 1000F.
>

1000 degrees easily in a Kamado (but in my case, not on purpose). I
frequently cook pizza at 700 degrees and if I am distracted when setting the
initial temperature, I'll have to wait for it to cool down.

To clean the interior of my Kamados, I'll let the temperature go to at least
800 degrees to burn off the grease and fat left from low-and-slow cooks.

Hardwood lump charcoal is the answer to the high heat cooking

BOB

>
> --
> ...I'm an air-conditioned gypsy...
>
> - The Who

In article >,
wrote:

> In rec.food.cooking, Blair P. Houghton > wrote:
>
> > Never happens. First, 800 degrees? Jealous, I am. I get
> > about 650-700.
>
> I'm estimating. I use harwood charcoal on a Weber Kettle. I don't really
> know how hot it gets. But people that use ceramic grills like a Kamado or
> BGE claim that they can attain temps over 1000F.

Just out of curiosity, why would you NEED temps that high?

Visit your local volcano. <G>

K.

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

Katra typed:
> In article >,
> wrote:
>
>> In rec.food.cooking, Blair P. Houghton > wrote:
>>
>>> Never happens. First, 800 degrees? Jealous, I am. I get
>>> about 650-700.
>>
>> I'm estimating. I use harwood charcoal on a Weber Kettle. I don't really
>> know how hot it gets. But people that use ceramic grills like a Kamado or
>> BGE claim that they can attain temps over 1000F.
>
> Just out of curiosity, why would you NEED temps that high?
>
> Visit your local volcano. <G>
>
> K.
>

For searing a steak?
It's a guy thing. Ya ever hear of "Tim the Tool-Man Taylor"?

MORE POWER

BOB

In article >,
" BOB" > wrote:

> Katra typed:
> > In article >,
> > wrote:
> >
> >> In rec.food.cooking, Blair P. Houghton > wrote:
> >>
> >>> Never happens. First, 800 degrees? Jealous, I am. I get
> >>> about 650-700.
> >>
> >> I'm estimating. I use harwood charcoal on a Weber Kettle. I don't really
> >> know how hot it gets. But people that use ceramic grills like a Kamado or
> >> BGE claim that they can attain temps over 1000F.
> >
> > Just out of curiosity, why would you NEED temps that high?
> >
> > Visit your local volcano. <G>
> >
> > K.
> >
>
> For searing a steak?
> It's a guy thing. Ya ever hear of "Tim the Tool-Man Taylor"?
>
> MORE POWER
>
> BOB
>
>

What I was asking was, do you really need 1,000 degrees to sear a steak?
(or whatever) :-) What is the maximum optimal temperature?

Seems to me you'd get ashes at temps that high?

K.

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

Katra typed:
> " BOB" wrote:
>
>> Katra typed:
>>
>> For searing a steak?
>> It's a guy thing. Ya ever hear of "Tim the Tool-Man Taylor"?
>>
>> MORE POWER
>>
>> BOB
>>
> What I was asking was, do you really need 1,000 degrees to sear a steak?
> (or whatever) :-) What is the maximum optimal temperature?
>
> Seems to me you'd get ashes at temps that high?
>
> K.
>
No, you don't. While I *can* get 1000+ temperatures, I try not to go that
high. 800 for a quick thin pizza is enough. That same 800 or slightly lower
will make a great black-and-blue steak. Charred with the grill marks for
presentation on the outside, while still raw inside. Not for your average
supermarket steaks.

BOB

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 11:36:57 -0600, Katra >
wrote:

>Honestly, are there really any advantages of using plastic vs. wood
>boards? I only have so much storage space, and the large oak board
>usually just stays out on the counter since our primary diet consists of
>fresh foods rather than canned or frozen.
>
>K.

if the oak board stays out, you must like it for some reason. i've
used plastic boards, but i get more pleasure from using wood.

your pal,
blake

In article >,
blake murphy > wrote:

> On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 11:36:57 -0600, Katra >
> wrote:
>
> >Honestly, are there really any advantages of using plastic vs. wood
> >boards? I only have so much storage space, and the large oak board
> >usually just stays out on the counter since our primary diet consists of
> >fresh foods rather than canned or frozen.
> >
> >K.
>
> if the oak board stays out, you must like it for some reason. i've
> used plastic boards, but i get more pleasure from using wood.
>
> your pal,
> blake

Thank you!!! :-)

K.

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

In rec.food.cooking, Katra > wrote:

> Just out of curiosity, why would you NEED temps that high?

Need? Is that relevant?

--
....I'm an air-conditioned gypsy...

- The Who

In article >,
wrote:

> In rec.food.cooking, Katra > wrote:
>
> > Just out of curiosity, why would you NEED temps that high?
>
> Need? Is that relevant?


<whoosh...> ????????

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

Katra > wrote:


> Rather than "chopping" with the cleaver, I'll place the edge of the
> cleaver against the bone and tap it thru with either my kitchen rock

Kitchen rock?

Katra > wrote in
:
> In article >,
> Frogleg > wrote:
>> On Thu, 01 Jan 2004 22:47:13 +0000, Alex > wrote:

>> >Does anyone actually wash their boards? i.e. submerge in the bowl
>> >along with the plates and stuff?


I've been cooking for forty years, and I always wash my board after
cutting. I always prep starting with vegetables and ending with animal
parts. The board gets scrubbed down with hot soapy water and a scrubber,
rinsed, and left to dry in a place where it gets strong sunlight.
Occasionally, I scrub with bleach.

I would never submerge any wooden item in water, and certainly not with
plates that might have grease or stale food items on them.

But obviously, other people have different ideas.

>> Regularly. Always, after cutting up meat things. Have had 2-3 wooden
>> boards for at least 15 years getting this treatment and they're as
>> flat and unsplit as they were on day 1. Have never applied any sort
>> of oil, either.

I have used my current cutting board for nearly 20 years. I cook very
heavily, so I spend a lot of time cutting. I have never ever used oil on my
cutting board, and I have never heard of this practice. I have never had a
problem with splintering, either.

> The current board I am using is one I made myself, and it's oak.

> Making a cutting board is easy. Just buy an 18" pieces of 1 x 12 oak
> board from the lumber store, (make sure that it is NOT chemically
> treated for outdoor use!) and sand it well. Usually it's pretty smooth
> so you can start out with a 350 grit and work up to 600. Finish with a
> bit of steel wool. :-)

> Does not take all that long either.

Thanks for that excellent piece of information!

Although I suspect I'll be long dead and gone before I have to replace my
cutting boards!

> If all else fails, you could get a plastic cutting board. <shiver,
> ick!>

I'm so glad to hear that someone else feels that way! I find the fancy,
expensive plastic/silicon/other_fake_material boards utterly unappealing,
and I suspect they would not be good for the knife.

sq

Katra > wrote in
:
> In article >,
> Frogleg > wrote:
>> On Thu, 01 Jan 2004 22:47:13 +0000, Alex > wrote:

>> >Does anyone actually wash their boards? i.e. submerge in the bowl
>> >along with the plates and stuff?


I've been cooking for forty years, and I always wash my board after
cutting. I always prep starting with vegetables and ending with animal
parts. The board gets scrubbed down with hot soapy water and a scrubber,
rinsed, and left to dry in a place where it gets strong sunlight.
Occasionally, I scrub with bleach.

I would never submerge any wooden item in water, and certainly not with
plates that might have grease or stale food items on them.

But obviously, other people have different ideas.

>> Regularly. Always, after cutting up meat things. Have had 2-3 wooden
>> boards for at least 15 years getting this treatment and they're as
>> flat and unsplit as they were on day 1. Have never applied any sort
>> of oil, either.

I have used my current cutting board for nearly 20 years. I cook very
heavily, so I spend a lot of time cutting. I have never ever used oil on my
cutting board, and I have never heard of this practice. I have never had a
problem with splintering, either.

> The current board I am using is one I made myself, and it's oak.

> Making a cutting board is easy. Just buy an 18" pieces of 1 x 12 oak
> board from the lumber store, (make sure that it is NOT chemically
> treated for outdoor use!) and sand it well. Usually it's pretty smooth
> so you can start out with a 350 grit and work up to 600. Finish with a
> bit of steel wool. :-)

> Does not take all that long either.

Thanks for that excellent piece of information!

Although I suspect I'll be long dead and gone before I have to replace my
cutting boards!

> If all else fails, you could get a plastic cutting board. <shiver,
> ick!>

I'm so glad to hear that someone else feels that way! I find the fancy,
expensive plastic/silicon/other_fake_material boards utterly unappealing,
and I suspect they would not be good for the knife.

sq

Bob Pastorio > wrote in
:
Katra wrote:

>> This just boggles my mind...
>> I have never never NEVER had a problem with splinters or sawdust in
>> my food using my oak cutting boards! :-P

> And as long as you don't take a cleaver to them, you won't. Oak has an
> open grain, so I rub mine with paraffin wax and warm them to melt it
> in. Then give them a good rub to polish. Less chance of anything
> soaking in and gives a nice surface patina.

Forgive me for jumping in so late on this thread, but I just discovered
this newsgroup.

I regularly take a cleaver to my chopping board. I have one board I've
used for nearly 30 years. I have never had a problem with splinters or
sawdust.

Moreover, I have never used any substance on my board excepting soap,
water, and bleach.

Have you ever had a problem with splinters, or is this "common
knowledge," the sort that always happens to a friend of a friend?

I'm genuinely curious, not baiting.

Thanks for your reply, if any.

sq

mroo philpott-smythe wrote:

> Bob Pastorio > wrote in
> :
> Katra wrote:
>
>>>This just boggles my mind...
>>>I have never never NEVER had a problem with splinters or sawdust in
>>>my food using my oak cutting boards! :-P
>
>>And as long as you don't take a cleaver to them, you won't. Oak has an
>>open grain, so I rub mine with paraffin wax and warm them to melt it
>>in. Then give them a good rub to polish. Less chance of anything
>>soaking in and gives a nice surface patina.
>
> Forgive me for jumping in so late on this thread, but I just discovered
> this newsgroup.
>
> I regularly take a cleaver to my chopping board. I have one board I've
> used for nearly 30 years. I have never had a problem with splinters or
> sawdust.

There's a difference between a chopping block and a cutting board.
Chopping block is designed for the harder duty and is made with end
grain facing up. Cutting boards have side grain facing up and are
designed for the gentler use of knife work.

> Moreover, I have never used any substance on my board excepting soap,
> water, and bleach.

Well, they'll keep it clean and reasonably sterile if applied properly
and often. I prefer not to have that bleach smell or taste, so I use a
two-part cleaner that actually kills more germs than bleach - hydrogen
peroxide and white vinegar separately but simultaneously applied.
Spray on, let sit for a moment and wipe with clean toweling. Air dry.

Waxing keeps the holes in the wood somewhat filled so fewer bacteria
get into it. Slows absorption of liquids. Also looks better.

When boards absorb liquids, they warp. If glued planks, the glue can
pull apart in the warping.

> Have you ever had a problem with splinters, or is this "common
> knowledge," the sort that always happens to a friend of a friend?

I've thrown out cheap cutting boards that were splintered because the
woods used were too soft for the application. Seen many others at the
homes of friends and acquaintances.

Pastorio

> I'm genuinely curious, not baiting.

"Bob (this one)" > wrote in news:10rae685u7npnb1
@corp.supernews.com:
> mroo philpott-smythe wrote:
>> Bob Pastorio > wrote in
>> :

> There's a difference between a chopping block and a cutting board.
> Chopping block is designed for the harder duty and is made with end
> grain facing up. Cutting boards have side grain facing up and are
> designed for the gentler use of knife work.

Okay, I'll go look at it. %^)

>> Moreover, I have never used any substance on my board excepting soap,
>> water, and bleach.

> Well, they'll keep it clean and reasonably sterile if applied properly
> and often. I prefer not to have that bleach smell or taste, so I use a
> two-part cleaner that actually kills more germs than bleach - hydrogen
> peroxide and white vinegar separately but simultaneously applied.
> Spray on, let sit for a moment and wipe with clean toweling. Air dry.

Thanks, that's interesting.

I've never noticed a bleach smell, but then I usually wash the board with
bleach *after* cooking, and sit it on the drainboard to dry, where it
gets plenty of sun. By the time I drag it out for the next round of
chopping, it doesn't smell like much of anything.

> Waxing keeps the holes in the wood somewhat filled so fewer bacteria
> get into it. Slows absorption of liquids. Also looks better.

%^) My poor cutting board! It looks like it needs replacing.

> When boards absorb liquids, they warp. If glued planks, the glue can
> pull apart in the warping.

That's interesting to know. I've never let mine soak, just a quick scrub
under running water followed by air dry. Perhaps that's why it's lasted
this long.

Thanks for the friendly and informational response!

sq

"Bob (this one)" > wrote in news:10rae685u7npnb1
@corp.supernews.com:
> mroo philpott-smythe wrote:
>> Bob Pastorio > wrote in
>> :

> There's a difference between a chopping block and a cutting board.
> Chopping block is designed for the harder duty and is made with end
> grain facing up. Cutting boards have side grain facing up and are
> designed for the gentler use of knife work.

Okay, I'll go look at it. %^)

>> Moreover, I have never used any substance on my board excepting soap,
>> water, and bleach.

> Well, they'll keep it clean and reasonably sterile if applied properly
> and often. I prefer not to have that bleach smell or taste, so I use a
> two-part cleaner that actually kills more germs than bleach - hydrogen
> peroxide and white vinegar separately but simultaneously applied.
> Spray on, let sit for a moment and wipe with clean toweling. Air dry.

Thanks, that's interesting.

I've never noticed a bleach smell, but then I usually wash the board with
bleach *after* cooking, and sit it on the drainboard to dry, where it
gets plenty of sun. By the time I drag it out for the next round of
chopping, it doesn't smell like much of anything.

> Waxing keeps the holes in the wood somewhat filled so fewer bacteria
> get into it. Slows absorption of liquids. Also looks better.

%^) My poor cutting board! It looks like it needs replacing.

> When boards absorb liquids, they warp. If glued planks, the glue can
> pull apart in the warping.

That's interesting to know. I've never let mine soak, just a quick scrub
under running water followed by air dry. Perhaps that's why it's lasted
this long.

Thanks for the friendly and informational response!

sq