>Whilst trying to be a computer Whizz.......... I deleted all the responses
>I received as to how ppl would 'season' their chopping boards. Now, I
>can't get them back.
-------------------------------------
Go to this web site:
http://www.google.com/advanced_group_search?hl=en

It is "Google Advanced Group Search"--fill in some of the blanks, and you
should be able to retrieve what you're looking for.
Nancree

Hello gorgeous people

Whilst trying to be a computer Whizz.......... I deleted all the responses
I received as to how ppl would 'season' their chopping boards. Now, I
can't get them back.

Can you tell me again. Sowwy.

I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a little
with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected to
get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
way.

Raelene
xxx

Raelene wrote:

> Hello gorgeous people
>
> I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a little
> with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected to
> get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
> way.

If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.

Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
(I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.

The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
it looks like it needs it, reoil.

Pastorio

"Bob Pastorio" > wrote in message
...
> Raelene wrote:
>
*snip snip*

> > I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a
little
> > with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I
expected to
> > get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
way.
>
> If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
> chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
> are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
> maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.

Oh, ok then......... it's a cutting board. Sorry, wrong use of a word.

> Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
> smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
> (I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
> people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
> and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.

It's only very slightly scarred.. when it started to show signs of the
splintering, I stopped using it. It's in the tea-chest.... along with the
iron. ;-)

Raelene
xxx

Raelene wrote:
>
> It's only very slightly scarred.. when it started to show signs
> of the splintering, I stopped using it. It's in the tea-chest....
> along with the iron. ;-)

natch.

>It's only very slightly scarred.. when it started to show signs of the
>splintering, I stopped using it. It's in the tea-chest.... along with the
>iron. ;-)

If it is less than 12" wide, find a woodworker and have him run it
through his planer.

Remove TIE to reply.

http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-billslitterbox

On 01/03/2004 12:36 AM, in article , "Bob
Pastorio" > opined:

> Raelene wrote:
>
>> Hello gorgeous people
>>
>> I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a little
>> with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected to
>> get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
>> way.
>
> If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
> chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
> are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
> maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.
>
> Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
> smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
> (I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
> people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
> and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.
>
> The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
> it looks like it needs it, reoil.
>
> Pastorio
>

Mineral oil doesn't go rancid like organic cooking oils.

If you are really motivated and have a finishing random orbit sander (not a
belt sander) start at 80 grit, then 100, 150, 200 and wipe it down with
several coats of mineral oil.

Good as new.
--
================================================== =====================
The principal difference between genius and stupidity is that there are
limits to genius!
================================================== =====================

In article >,
The Wolf > wrote:

> On 01/03/2004 12:36 AM, in article , "Bob
> Pastorio" > opined:
>
> > Raelene wrote:
> >
> >> Hello gorgeous people
> >>
> >> I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a
> >> little
> >> with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected
> >> to
> >> get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
> >> way.
> >
> > If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
> > chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
> > are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
> > maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.
> >
> > Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
> > smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
> > (I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
> > people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
> > and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.
> >
> > The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
> > it looks like it needs it, reoil.
> >
> > Pastorio
> >
>
> Mineral oil doesn't go rancid like organic cooking oils.
>
> If you are really motivated and have a finishing random orbit sander (not a
> belt sander) start at 80 grit, then 100, 150, 200 and wipe it down with
> several coats of mineral oil.
>
> Good as new.


Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)

I do it by hand.

K.

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

On 01/03/2004 8:06 AM, in article
, "Katra"
> opined:

> In article >,
> The Wolf > wrote:
>
>> On 01/03/2004 12:36 AM, in article , "Bob
>> Pastorio" > opined:
>>
>>> Raelene wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hello gorgeous people
>>>>
>>>> I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a
>>>> little
>>>> with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected
>>>> to
>>>> get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
>>>> way.
>>>
>>> If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
>>> chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
>>> are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
>>> maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.
>>>
>>> Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
>>> smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
>>> (I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
>>> people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
>>> and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.
>>>
>>> The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
>>> it looks like it needs it, reoil.
>>>
>>> Pastorio
>>>
>>
>> Mineral oil doesn't go rancid like organic cooking oils.
>>
>> If you are really motivated and have a finishing random orbit sander (not a
>> belt sander) start at 80 grit, then 100, 150, 200 and wipe it down with
>> several coats of mineral oil.
>>
>> Good as new.
>
>
> Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
> I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
>
> I do it by hand.
>
> K.

You've never worked with 600 grit and wouldn't know where to buy it if you
wanted to.
--
================================================== ========================
"If George W. Bush announced that a cure for cancer had been discovered,
Democrats would complain about unemployed laboratory rats," Ann Coulter.
================================================== ========================

In article >,
The Wolf > wrote:

> On 01/03/2004 8:06 AM, in article
> , "Katra"
> > opined:
> >
> > Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
> > I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
> >
> > I do it by hand.
> >
> > K.
>
> You've never worked with 600 grit and wouldn't know where to buy it if you
> wanted to.


Care to take a wager on that grasshoppper???

I've used it also for polishing columbian copal.......

Remember, I do stone and jewelry work.

Idiot.

K.

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 00:42:25 -0000, Dog3 > wrote:

>I season my cutting boards and knife handles with plain old mineral oil.
>
>Michael

Nice to see your handle back on the screen Michael.

Gar

On 01/03/2004 8:25 AM, in article
, "Katra"
> opined:

> In article >,
> The Wolf > wrote:
>
>> On 01/03/2004 8:06 AM, in article
>> , "Katra"
>> > opined:
>>>
>>> Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
>>> I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
>>>
>>> I do it by hand.
>>>
>>> K.
>>
>> You've never worked with 600 grit and wouldn't know where to buy it if you
>> wanted to.
>
>
> Care to take a wager on that grasshoppper???
>
> I've used it also for polishing columbian copal.......
>
> Remember, I do stone and jewelry work.
>
> Idiot.
>
> K.

Just calling your bluff. Don't take it personal, it's not like you're
canadian are ya?
--
================================================== ========================
"When a broad table is to be made, and the edges of planks do not fit, the
artist takes a little from both, and makes a good joint. In like manner
here, both sides must part with some of their demands," Benjamin Franklin
(1706-1790)
================================================== ========================

>Katra bragged:
>>>>
>>>> Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
>>>> I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
>>>>
>>>> I do it by hand.
>>>>
>>>> K.

Hmmm, by hand is okay, but I was hoping you'd polish my knob with your tongue!
<G>


---= BOYCOTT FRENCH--GERMAN (belgium) =---
---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =---
Sheldon
````````````
"Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation."

In article >,
The Wolf > wrote:

> On 01/03/2004 8:25 AM, in article
> , "Katra"
> > opined:
>
> > In article >,
> > The Wolf > wrote:
> >
> >> On 01/03/2004 8:06 AM, in article
> >> , "Katra"
> >> > opined:
> >>>
> >>> Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
> >>> I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
> >>>
> >>> I do it by hand.
> >>>
> >>> K.
> >>
> >> You've never worked with 600 grit and wouldn't know where to buy it if you
> >> wanted to.
> >
> >
> > Care to take a wager on that grasshoppper???
> >
> > I've used it also for polishing columbian copal.......
> >
> > Remember, I do stone and jewelry work.
> >
> > Idiot.
> >
> > K.
>
> Just calling your bluff. Don't take it personal, it's not like you're
> canadian are ya?

Ok, but it was kinda lame... ;-)
I DO know my sandpaper!

For polishing nicks out of sterling, I use a felt wheel and rouge....
Somehow, I think that'd be going a bit overboard for cutting boards. <G>

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

In article >,
(PENMART01) wrote:

> >Katra bragged:
> >>>>
> >>>> Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
> >>>> I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
> >>>>
> >>>> I do it by hand.
> >>>>
> >>>> K.
>
> Hmmm, by hand is okay, but I was hoping you'd polish my knob with your tongue!
> <G>
>
> Sheldon

I dunno... a powertool might be more fun. <eg>

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

> Katra opined:
>
> penmart01 wrote:
>
>> >Katra bragged:
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
>> >>>> I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I do it by hand.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> K.
>>
>> Hmmm, by hand is okay, but I was hoping you'd polish my knob with your
>tongue!
>> <G>
>>
>> Sheldon
>
>I dunno... a power tool might be more fun. <eg>

Um, I already have a power tool, a serious power tool.
---> http://www.tuxco.com/hydraulic-cylinder-hones.htm


---= BOYCOTT FRENCH--GERMAN (belgium) =---
---= Move UNITED NATIONS To Paris =---
Sheldon
````````````
"Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation."

In article >,
(PENMART01) wrote:

> > Katra opined:
> >
> > penmart01 wrote:
> >
> >> >Katra bragged:
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
> >> >>>> I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> I do it by hand.
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> K.
> >>
> >> Hmmm, by hand is okay, but I was hoping you'd polish my knob with your
> >tongue!
> >> <G>
> >>
> >> Sheldon
> >
> >I dunno... a power tool might be more fun. <eg>
>
> Um, I already have a power tool, a serious power tool.
> ---> http://www.tuxco.com/hydraulic-cylinder-hones.htm
>
>
> Sheldon

That don't look like a polishing tool to me..... ;-)

This OTOH: http://tinyurl.com/28ayr

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

The Wolf wrote:

> On 01/03/2004 12:36 AM, in article , "Bob
> Pastorio" > opined:
>
>
>>Raelene wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hello gorgeous people
>>>
>>>I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a little
>>>with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected to
>>>get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
>>>way.
>>
>>If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
>>chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
>>are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
>>maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.
>>
>>Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
>>smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
>>(I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
>>people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
>>and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.
>>
>>The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
>>it looks like it needs it, reoil.
>>
>>Pastorio
>>
>
>
> Mineral oil doesn't go rancid like organic cooking oils.

It may be that my experience is different than most people's, but I
used mineral oil once and misplaced the bottle because I don't use it
for anything else. I've used neutral oils (soy, cottonseed, canola,
etc.) for seasoning cast iron and for oiling both cutting boards and
chopping blocks. I've never had anything smell rancid. My boards hang
on the side of a wooden cabinet. Chopping block sits on it's huge legs
on the floor (I'm getting rid of it because I don't do much
carcass-cutting butchery any more. Takes up too much space and I've
traded it to a neighbor.)

> If you are really motivated and have a finishing random orbit sander (not a
> belt sander) start at 80 grit, then 100, 150, 200 and wipe it down with
> several coats of mineral oil.

Yep. I'd wash it first to get the surface oil off. Sandpaper lasts
longer that way. I usually rub it with a stainless steel scrubby pad
before sanding. Gets the loose surface stuff off.

My wooden cutting boards are pecan, rock maple, oak and locust (along
with a few plastics.) I like the pecan and maple ones best. Prettier
grain and warmer luster. My grandfather made the pecan boards almost a
century ago, so they're special. My kids are already politicking for
them. No prob. I have enough to go around. Also have a black walnut
inlaid, red maple board that I use as a service tray. Too pretty to
score with blade marks.

I use kitchen oils on all of them. My woodworker neighbor shakes his
head when I tell him what I do, but he never refuses a meal. <g>

Pastorio

Bob Pastorio > wrote:
>Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
>smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
>(I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
>people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
>and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.

I have a mahogany board (soft, yes, but beautiful, and my
knives love not fighting hardwood) that I "made" by having
a droid at Home Depot slice me 18 inches off a 1x12 in the
fancy wood section. That was more than a dozen years ago.

I oil the top (the bottom is dry and I don't use that side
for cutting; it sits on a sheet of that nubbly rubbery
shelf liner stuff so it never slips) once or twice a year
with a little mineral oil, and after that I bake the board
in a 150-200F oven for 20 minutes.

I'm not sure whether the baking actually does anything
useful, but I imagine it opens the pores in the wood and
lets the oil soak in deeply to seal the surface better
than it would otherwise.

>The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
>it looks like it needs it, reoil.

I don't use my wooden board for cutting sloppy or
dangerous stuff. I keep several sizes of plastic boards
(the softer kind are better, IMO) for that, and wash them
thoroughly every time they're used.

--Blair
"Maybe that's why it's lasted so long."

lea b > wrote:
>Raelene wrote:
>>
>> It's only very slightly scarred.. when it started to show signs
>> of the splintering, I stopped using it. It's in the tea-chest....
>> along with the iron. ;-)
>
>natch.

The cutting board, in the tea chest, with the iron.

--Blair
"Are we playing Clue?"

>> >I dunno... a power tool might be more fun. <eg>
>>
>> Um, I already have a power tool, a serious power tool.
>> ---> http://www.tuxco.com/hydraulic-cylinder-hones.htm
>>
>>
>> Sheldon

There is one thing about Sheldon, they will never convict him of rape.

Assult with a DEAD weapon, maybe.

Remove TIE to reply.

http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-billslitterbox

On 01/03/2004 7:33 PM, in article
, "Katra"
> opined:

> In article >,
> The Wolf > wrote:
>
>> On 01/03/2004 8:25 AM, in article
>> , "Katra"
>> > opined:
>>
>>> In article >,
>>> The Wolf > wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 01/03/2004 8:06 AM, in article
>>>> , "Katra"
>>>> > opined:
>>>>>
>>>>> Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
>>>>> I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
>>>>>
>>>>> I do it by hand.
>>>>>
>>>>> K.
>>>>
>>>> You've never worked with 600 grit and wouldn't know where to buy it if you
>>>> wanted to.
>>>
>>>
>>> Care to take a wager on that grasshoppper???
>>>
>>> I've used it also for polishing columbian copal.......
>>>
>>> Remember, I do stone and jewelry work.
>>>
>>> Idiot.
>>>
>>> K.
>>
>> Just calling your bluff. Don't take it personal, it's not like you're
>> canadian are ya?
>
> Ok, but it was kinda lame... ;-)
> I DO know my sandpaper!
>
> For polishing nicks out of sterling, I use a felt wheel and rouge....
> Somehow, I think that'd be going a bit overboard for cutting boards. <G>

If you really want a nice finish on your cutting board. Try a product
imported from England called Liberon Finishing Oil.

It is expensive and I don't know how they bypass U.S. EPA VOC regs. But it
IS good.

--
================================================== ========================
"When a broad table is to be made, and the edges of planks do not fit, the
artist takes a little from both, and makes a good joint. In like manner
here, both sides must part with some of their demands," Benjamin Franklin
(1706-1790)
================================================== ========================

On 01/03/2004 7:34 PM, in article
, "Katra"
> opined:

> In article >,
> (PENMART01) wrote:
>
>>> Katra bragged:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
>>>>>> I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I do it by hand.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> K.
>>
>> Hmmm, by hand is okay, but I was hoping you'd polish my knob with your
>> tongue!
>> <G>
>>
>> Sheldon
>
> I dunno... a powertool might be more fun. <eg>

First of all you would need an electron microscope to find it! Hah!
--
================================================== ====
"Tell you whut. I think body piercing is a good thing.
You can tell who's not right by just looking at them,"

Hank "King Of The Hill."
================================================== ====

On 01/03/2004 9:46 PM, in article , "Bob
Pastorio" > opined:

> The Wolf wrote:
>
>> On 01/03/2004 12:36 AM, in article , "Bob
>> Pastorio" > opined:
>>
>>
>>> Raelene wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Hello gorgeous people
>>>>
>>>> I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a
>>>> little
>>>> with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected
>>>> to
>>>> get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
>>>> way.
>>>
>>> If it's the sort of board that sits on a counter top, it's not for
>>> chopping. It's for slicing or gentle knifework. Blocks for chopping
>>> are heavy, several times as thick and are typically made of rock
>>> maple, end-grain up. Butchers have them and no one else I've ever seen.
>>>
>>> Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
>>> smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
>>> (I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
>>> people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
>>> and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.
>>>
>>> The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
>>> it looks like it needs it, reoil.
>>>
>>> Pastorio
>>>
>>
>>
>> Mineral oil doesn't go rancid like organic cooking oils.
>
> It may be that my experience is different than most people's, but I
> used mineral oil once and misplaced the bottle because I don't use it
> for anything else. I've used neutral oils (soy, cottonseed, canola,
> etc.) for seasoning cast iron and for oiling both cutting boards and
> chopping blocks. I've never had anything smell rancid. My boards hang
> on the side of a wooden cabinet. Chopping block sits on it's huge legs
> on the floor (I'm getting rid of it because I don't do much
> carcass-cutting butchery any more. Takes up too much space and I've
> traded it to a neighbor.)
>
>> If you are really motivated and have a finishing random orbit sander (not a
>> belt sander) start at 80 grit, then 100, 150, 200 and wipe it down with
>> several coats of mineral oil.
>
> Yep. I'd wash it first to get the surface oil off. Sandpaper lasts
> longer that way. I usually rub it with a stainless steel scrubby pad
> before sanding. Gets the loose surface stuff off.
>
> My wooden cutting boards are pecan, rock maple, oak and locust (along
> with a few plastics.) I like the pecan and maple ones best. Prettier
> grain and warmer luster. My grandfather made the pecan boards almost a
> century ago, so they're special. My kids are already politicking for
> them. No prob. I have enough to go around. Also have a black walnut
> inlaid, red maple board that I use as a service tray. Too pretty to
> score with blade marks.
>
> I use kitchen oils on all of them. My woodworker neighbor shakes his
> head when I tell him what I do, but he never refuses a meal. <g>


I am a woodworker as well and I am shaking my head at you using organic over
mineral oil too. Organic *can* go rancid (I didn't say it would) but mineral
will never go rancid.

To each his own..............
>
> Pastorio
>

--
================================================== ========================
"If George W. Bush announced that a cure for cancer had been discovered,
Democrats would complain about unemployed laboratory rats," Ann Coulter.
================================================== ========================

On 01/04/2004 1:34 AM, in article ,
"Blair P. Houghton" > opined:

> Bob Pastorio > wrote:
>> Without knowing how badly it's scarred, I can suggest sanding it to
>> smooth it out and then oiling generously with any sort of kitchen oil
>> (I don't like the smell that develops with olive oil, but I know
>> people who use it). Let the oil soak into the wood for an hour or two
>> and wipe clean. Do that about once a month with normal use.
>
> I have a mahogany board (soft, yes, but beautiful, and my
> knives love not fighting hardwood) that I "made" by having
> a droid at Home Depot

You bought mahogany at Home Depot? You just proved you are more stupid than
even I thought!



slice me 18 inches off a 1x12 in the
> fancy wood section. That was more than a dozen years ago.
>
> I oil the top (the bottom is dry and I don't use that side
> for cutting; it sits on a sheet of that nubbly rubbery
> shelf liner stuff so it never slips) once or twice a year
> with a little mineral oil, and after that I bake the board
> in a 150-200F oven for 20 minutes.
>
> I'm not sure whether the baking actually does anything
> useful, but I imagine it opens the pores in the wood and
> lets the oil soak in deeply to seal the surface better
> than it would otherwise.
>
>> The board can be washed with soapy water, rinsed and air dried. When
>> it looks like it needs it, reoil.
>
> I don't use my wooden board for cutting sloppy or
> dangerous stuff. I keep several sizes of plastic boards
> (the softer kind are better, IMO) for that, and wash them
> thoroughly every time they're used.
>
> --Blair
> "Maybe that's why it's lasted so long."

--
================================================== =====================
The principal difference between genius and stupidity is that there are
limits to genius!
================================================== =====================

In article >,
The Wolf > wrote:

> On 01/03/2004 7:33 PM, in article
> , "Katra"
> > opined:
>
> > In article >,
> > The Wolf > wrote:
> >
> >> On 01/03/2004 8:25 AM, in article
> >> , "Katra"
> >> > opined:
> >>
> >>> In article >,
> >>> The Wolf > wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> On 01/03/2004 8:06 AM, in article
> >>>> , "Katra"
> >>>> > opined:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Only 200 grit??? <shocked look>
> >>>>> I like the glossy finish that 600 grit gives. :-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I do it by hand.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> K.
> >>>>
> >>>> You've never worked with 600 grit and wouldn't know where to buy it if
> >>>> you
> >>>> wanted to.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Care to take a wager on that grasshoppper???
> >>>
> >>> I've used it also for polishing columbian copal.......
> >>>
> >>> Remember, I do stone and jewelry work.
> >>>
> >>> Idiot.
> >>>
> >>> K.
> >>
> >> Just calling your bluff. Don't take it personal, it's not like you're
> >> canadian are ya?
> >
> > Ok, but it was kinda lame... ;-)
> > I DO know my sandpaper!
> >
> > For polishing nicks out of sterling, I use a felt wheel and rouge....
> > Somehow, I think that'd be going a bit overboard for cutting boards. <G>
>
> If you really want a nice finish on your cutting board. Try a product
> imported from England called Liberon Finishing Oil.
>
> It is expensive and I don't know how they bypass U.S. EPA VOC regs. But it
> IS good.

Not familiar with that, so I'll have to google it.
I usually use dutch oil for most wood finishes, but it may have other
applications.

My rune staff was finished with dutch oil, but first I used a very
thinned out mahogany stain to bring out the carving detail, especially
in the snake scales I pressed with a wood gouge in the serpent carving
at the top. I still have the abalone inlay to do, then I need to dress
and top it with either a crystal or one of those rainbow obsidian eggs I
bought at the gem show. ;-) I may or may not sell it when I'm done, I
have not decided. I've been working on that project for a few years
now... I bought some Ermine tails at a pow wow to dangle also at the
top.

Personally, the only thing I "season" my cutting boards with is
sandpaper. I don't oil, never have and don't plan to. <G>
Why change what has worked for me for years?

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

"Raelene" > wrote in message
u...
> Hello gorgeous people
>
> Whilst trying to be a computer Whizz.......... I deleted all the
responses
> I received as to how ppl would 'season' their chopping boards. Now, I
> can't get them back.
>
> Can you tell me again. Sowwy.
>
> I don't know what type of wood mine is made of. I wiped it a
little
> with some oil of some sort..... chopped/carved a bit &, whilst I expected
to
> get 'marks' in the board I didn't think pieces of it would start to give
> way.
>
> Raelene
> xxx
>
>
Lubricate it with mineral oil and use it. That's it.

Fred
The Good Gourmet
http://www.thegoodgourmet.com

The Wolf wrote:

> I am a woodworker as well and I am shaking my head at you using organic over
> mineral oil too. Organic *can* go rancid (I didn't say it would) but mineral
> will never go rancid.
>
> To each his own...

Exactly. Again, my experience both at home and in running restaurants
for the past 3 decades has shown me that wooden boards oiled with
cooking oils (except olive) don't get rancid. I wash them and reoil a
few times a year. Sterilize often with peroxide and white vinegar.

Based on that long experience and staring at a couple wooden boards my
grandfather made a century ago that were originally oiled with olive
oil, I understand that mineral oil won't become rancid, but apparently
the other ones won't on boards that are used and cleaned often. I
figure a century is long enough to wait to see if it'll get rancid.

To each his own, as you say...

Pastorio

The Wolf wrote:

> You wrote:

>>I have a mahogany board (soft, yes, but beautiful, and my
>>knives love not fighting hardwood) that I "made" by having
>>a droid at Home Depot
>
> You bought mahogany at Home Depot? You just proved you are more stupid than
> even I thought!

I don't understand. What's the difference where you buy a small piece
of mahogany? Or any other kind of wood. Obviously, I don't buy a lot
of wood.

Pastorio

In article >,
Bob Pastorio > wrote:

> The Wolf wrote:
>
> > You wrote:
>
> >>I have a mahogany board (soft, yes, but beautiful, and my
> >>knives love not fighting hardwood) that I "made" by having
> >>a droid at Home Depot
> >
> > You bought mahogany at Home Depot? You just proved you are more stupid than
> > even I thought!
>
> I don't understand. What's the difference where you buy a small piece
> of mahogany? Or any other kind of wood. Obviously, I don't buy a lot
> of wood.
>
> Pastorio
>

I'm betting he shops at places like Furrows. <G>
This is similar to his challenge to me about 600 grit sandpaper.
I can get it at different places, (Furrows, Dyers lapidary supply etc.)
but it's less expensive to get it at Hobby Lobby. :-)

Regular Lumber stores are carrying more specialty woods now and they are
not inexpensive, but more reasoanble then getting them at specialty
shops. I'm wondering if he knows that?

He also might be questioning the grade of wood. Supposedly, someplace
like Lowe's or Home Depot might not carry furniture grade. <shrugs> Does
one really need furniture grade for a cutting board? ;-)

K.

--
>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby >,,<
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

On 01/05/2004 4:19 AM, in article , "Bob
Pastorio" > opined:

> The Wolf wrote:
>
>> I am a woodworker as well and I am shaking my head at you using organic over
>> mineral oil too. Organic *can* go rancid (I didn't say it would) but mineral
>> will never go rancid.
>>
>> To each his own...
>
> Exactly. Again, my experience both at home and in running restaurants
> for the past 3 decades has shown me that wooden boards oiled with
> cooking oils (except olive) don't get rancid. I wash them and reoil a
> few times a year. Sterilize often with peroxide and white vinegar.
>
> Based on that long experience and staring at a couple wooden boards my
> grandfather made a century ago that were originally oiled with olive
> oil, I understand that mineral oil won't become rancid, but apparently
> the other ones won't on boards that are used and cleaned often. I
> figure a century is long enough to wait to see if it'll get rancid.
>
> To each his own, as you say...
>
> Pastorio
>

Hey, if we all thought alike the world would be a pretty boring
place...............
--
================================================== ==========================
"There is no room in this country for hyphenated Americanism...The one
absolutely certain way of bringing this nation to ruin...would be to permit
it to become a tangle of squabbling nationalities." Theodore Roosevelt.
(Speech, New York, 1915)
================================================== ==========================

On 01/05/2004 5:32 AM, in article
, "Katra"
> opined:

> In article >,
> Bob Pastorio > wrote:
>
>> The Wolf wrote:
>>
>>> You wrote:
>>
>>>> I have a mahogany board (soft, yes, but beautiful, and my
>>>> knives love not fighting hardwood) that I "made" by having
>>>> a droid at Home Depot
>>>
>>> You bought mahogany at Home Depot? You just proved you are more stupid than
>>> even I thought!
>>
>> I don't understand. What's the difference where you buy a small piece
>> of mahogany? Or any other kind of wood. Obviously, I don't buy a lot
>> of wood.
>>
>> Pastorio
>>
>
> I'm betting he shops at places like Furrows. <G>
> This is similar to his challenge to me about 600 grit sandpaper.
> I can get it at different places, (Furrows, Dyers lapidary supply etc.)
> but it's less expensive to get it at Hobby Lobby. :-)
>
> Regular Lumber stores are carrying more specialty woods now and they are
> not inexpensive, but more reasoanble then getting them at specialty
> shops. I'm wondering if he knows that?
>
> He also might be questioning the grade of wood. Supposedly, someplace
> like Lowe's or Home Depot might not carry furniture grade. <shrugs> Does
> one really need furniture grade for a cutting board? ;-)
>
> K.

Home Depot is fine for sheet goods since most are manufactured in Taiwan and
the price is cheap.

The quality of what they sell for hardwoods is EXTREMELY poor but what they
make their money on is uneducated consumers.

Kinda like the difference between a good butcher or fish monger and the
neighborhood supermarket.
--
================================================== =====================
The principal difference between genius and stupidity is that there are
limits to genius!
================================================== =====================

The Wolf wrote:

> On 01/05/2004 5:32 AM, in article
> , "Katra"
> > opined:
>
>
>>In article >,
>>Bob Pastorio > wrote:
>>
>>
>>>The Wolf wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>You wrote:
>>>
>>>>>I have a mahogany board (soft, yes, but beautiful, and my
>>>>>knives love not fighting hardwood) that I "made" by having
>>>>>a droid at Home Depot
>>>>
>>>>You bought mahogany at Home Depot? You just proved you are more stupid than
>>>>even I thought!
>>>
>>>I don't understand. What's the difference where you buy a small piece
>>>of mahogany? Or any other kind of wood. Obviously, I don't buy a lot
>>>of wood.
>>>
>>>Pastorio
>>>
>>
>>I'm betting he shops at places like Furrows. <G>
>>This is similar to his challenge to me about 600 grit sandpaper.
>>I can get it at different places, (Furrows, Dyers lapidary supply etc.)
>>but it's less expensive to get it at Hobby Lobby. :-)
>>
>>Regular Lumber stores are carrying more specialty woods now and they are
>>not inexpensive, but more reasoanble then getting them at specialty
>>shops. I'm wondering if he knows that?
>>
>>He also might be questioning the grade of wood. Supposedly, someplace
>>like Lowe's or Home Depot might not carry furniture grade. <shrugs> Does
>>one really need furniture grade for a cutting board? ;-)
>>
>>K.
>
>
> Home Depot is fine for sheet goods since most are manufactured in Taiwan and
> the price is cheap.
>
> The quality of what they sell for hardwoods is EXTREMELY poor but what they
> make their money on is uneducated consumers.
>
> Kinda like the difference between a good butcher or fish monger and the
> neighborhood supermarket.

Not looking for a hassle here, but I still don't get it. If HD has a
piece of wood that's not cracked and doesn't have knots, bullet holes
or teethmarks in it, what's the difference?

I bought some very pretty basswood at a Lowe's to make keepsake chests
for my grandsons for X-mas. Just like I made all those years ago for
their mother. They were very simple and the wood was easy to work, in
keeping with my carpentry skills. Rectangular boxes with nice finishes
on them. Rope handles. The wood sufficed for my purposes.

Sometimes the neighborhood supermarket is good enough for the task at
hand, no? I want a choice-grade chuck for a pot roast; Kroger will do.
I want a rib section to entertain my mother, several ex-presidents and
the Queen of the May; the uptown butcher.

Make sense?

Pastorio

On 01/05/2004 4:17 PM, in article , "Bob
Pastorio" > opined:

> The Wolf wrote:
>
>> On 01/05/2004 5:32 AM, in article
>> , "Katra"
>> > opined:
>>
>>
>>> In article >,
>>> Bob Pastorio > wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> The Wolf wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> You wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>> I have a mahogany board (soft, yes, but beautiful, and my
>>>>>> knives love not fighting hardwood) that I "made" by having
>>>>>> a droid at Home Depot
>>>>>
>>>>> You bought mahogany at Home Depot? You just proved you are more stupid
>>>>> than
>>>>> even I thought!
>>>>
>>>> I don't understand. What's the difference where you buy a small piece
>>>> of mahogany? Or any other kind of wood. Obviously, I don't buy a lot
>>>> of wood.
>>>>
>>>> Pastorio
>>>>
>>>
>>> I'm betting he shops at places like Furrows. <G>
>>> This is similar to his challenge to me about 600 grit sandpaper.
>>> I can get it at different places, (Furrows, Dyers lapidary supply etc.)
>>> but it's less expensive to get it at Hobby Lobby. :-)
>>>
>>> Regular Lumber stores are carrying more specialty woods now and they are
>>> not inexpensive, but more reasoanble then getting them at specialty
>>> shops. I'm wondering if he knows that?
>>>
>>> He also might be questioning the grade of wood. Supposedly, someplace
>>> like Lowe's or Home Depot might not carry furniture grade. <shrugs> Does
>>> one really need furniture grade for a cutting board? ;-)
>>>
>>> K.
>>
>>
>> Home Depot is fine for sheet goods since most are manufactured in Taiwan and
>> the price is cheap.
>>
>> The quality of what they sell for hardwoods is EXTREMELY poor but what they
>> make their money on is uneducated consumers.
>>
>> Kinda like the difference between a good butcher or fish monger and the
>> neighborhood supermarket.
>
> Not looking for a hassle here, but I still don't get it. If HD has a
> piece of wood that's not cracked and doesn't have knots, bullet holes
> or teethmarks in it, what's the difference?
>
> I bought some very pretty basswood at a Lowe's to make keepsake chests
> for my grandsons for X-mas. Just like I made all those years ago for
> their mother. They were very simple and the wood was easy to work, in
> keeping with my carpentry skills. Rectangular boxes with nice finishes
> on them. Rope handles. The wood sufficed for my purposes.
>
> Sometimes the neighborhood supermarket is good enough for the task at
> hand, no? I want a choice-grade chuck for a pot roast; Kroger will do.
> I want a rib section to entertain my mother, several ex-presidents and
> the Queen of the May; the uptown butcher.
>
> Make sense?
>
> Pastorio
>

It's hard to explain. Suffice it to say there are better places to buy
mahogany and black walnut then Home Depot. Ask your woodworking neighbor.
--
================================================== ==
"Fast Eddie, let's play some pool," Minnesota Fats.
================================================== ==

Bob Pastorio wrote:

> The Wolf wrote:
>
> > I am a woodworker as well and I am shaking my head at you using organic over
> > mineral oil too. Organic *can* go rancid (I didn't say it would) but mineral
> > will never go rancid.
> >
> > To each his own...
>
> Exactly. Again, my experience both at home and in running restaurants
> for the past 3 decades has shown me that wooden boards oiled with
> cooking oils (except olive) don't get rancid. I wash them and reoil a
> few times a year. Sterilize often with peroxide and white vinegar.
>
> Based on that long experience and staring at a couple wooden boards my
> grandfather made a century ago that were originally oiled with olive
> oil, I understand that mineral oil won't become rancid, but apparently
> the other ones won't on boards that are used and cleaned often. I
> figure a century is long enough to wait to see if it'll get rancid.
>
> To each his own, as you say...
>
> Pastorio

Bob...Have you ever researched mineral oil IN THE HUMAN BODY????
If you want to RUIN your entire intestinal sytem as well as Lower bowels,
do as so many have done in the 30's and die a miserable death! We're talking
MAJOR damage. It was taken off the SAFE market in the late 60's. "Wheyre
huv yew been mon?? D-yu hahv yur hade up yoor asrch?? READ MON...READ!!!
Get an education afore ye commit an oontimely and oon-inten-shunal Sewicide!
(Scottish accent written verbally?? LOL) SERIOUSLY..Mineral oil is for
lubricating
old timey wind up watches and other fine moving metallic parts! NOT
digestibale by
Hyoomons! Unless of course ye want tyo DIE and horrible death from inoperative

intestinal absorbtions! READ MON___ READ and be educated! B-0b1


--
"Beaten Paths are for Beaten People". -- Anon.

In rec.food.cooking, Bob Pastorio > wrote:

> Not looking for a hassle here, but I still don't get it. If HD has a
> piece of wood that's not cracked and doesn't have knots, bullet holes
> or teethmarks in it, what's the difference?

There are lots of different varieties of trees. Think about apples. And
different varieties are grown in different climates. As a natural
product, wood varies.

> Sometimes the neighborhood supermarket is good enough for the task at
> hand, no? I want a choice-grade chuck for a pot roast; Kroger will do.
> I want a rib section to entertain my mother, several ex-presidents and
> the Queen of the May; the uptown butcher.

> Make sense?

I think that's HIS point...

--
....I'm an air-conditioned gypsy...

- The Who