A famous old italian cookbook, made not just of recipes but also tips and
folklore stories, is "La Scienza in cucina e l'Arte di mangiar bene"
("Science in the kitchen and the Art of good eating") by Pellegrino Artusi,
born in Forlimpopoli in 1820 and dead in Firenze in 1911. He was a merchant
and his book covers a lot of recipes from every part of Italy between one
century and a half and ninety years ago. The last edition is from 1910 and
lists 790 recipes. Some researchers consider ribute this book as the basis
of the national italian kitchen.

This is the paragraph about the famous tortellini alla bolognese, which have
meanwhile changed a lot from this old version. Nowadays tortellini almost
always see meat in the filling, and the marrow is no more commonly found in
bolognese households and butcheries. As it usually happens with food
traditions, they evolve. The interesting things here are the recipe and
Artusi's idea of a cooking school, which would sustain itself by selling the
cooked dishes to those who would order them for lunch or dinner. The style
is old-fashioned but not too much affected. The recipe talks only about the
filling since the instructions for making the broth, sfoglia (egg-noodle)
and shaping the tortellini are in the first tortellini recipe he lists in
his book ("Cappelletti all'uso di Romagna", made with a capon based
filling), so I took those instructions and put them translated at the end of
this recipe. I have never made tortellini this way until saturday, when the
butcher told me they had some ox marrow. This recipe immediately flashed up
in my mind, I called my GF and asked her to read me the other ingredients
from the book. I bougth all what was needed and went straight to cook this.
I didn't follow the capon breast variant but used capon for the broth, as is
called for in almost any cappelletti or tortellini recipe. In the section
about the Cappelletti all'uso di Romagna Artusi recommends using capon broth
for all the four tortellini recipes he lists, and tortellini is the third
one. They are wonderful, really, the only hard part has been mincing the ham
since my GF hasn't a suitable food processor and I had to mince it with a
knife. The smoking hot broth, 1-2mm thin sfoglia made from scratch on a 50
years old cutting board always used for sfoglia, the hearthy filling... they
went wonderfully with Picol Ross lambrusco for a nice saturday lunch. The
lambrusco were "Pjcol ross" from Rinaldini and "Nero di Cio'" from La
Piccola, two nearby wineyards.

Some of the recipes in this book by Pellegrino Artusi have changed
noticeably in the years, a century is a very long time, so parts of his
works are nowadays more a culinary history lesson than a real cooking book,
but there are also lots of recipes which have remained just as they were
when the book went printed for the first time.



9. TORTELLINI ALLA BOLOGNESE



When you hear talking about bolognese kitchen just bow to it, because it
deserves it. It's a way to cook which is a bit heavy, one could say, because
that's what the climate asks for; but juicy, hearthy and healthy, in fact
persons in theyr 80s and 90s are more common there than elsewhere. The
following tortellini, even though easier and cheaper than other ones, aren't
inferior in goodness, and you'll convince yourself if you'll try them.



Ham, both lean and fat, grams 30.

Mortadella di bologna, grams 20.

Ox marrow, grams 60.

Grated parmigiano, grams 60.

Eggs, n. 1.

A hint of nutmeg

Salt and pepper, very few.



Finely mince the ham and the mortadella, mince and add the marrow without
cooking it, add it to the ham and mortadella and mix the egg in mixing
thoroughly. They get closed in a little circle of sfoglia (egg noodle*).
They don't suffer from being stored for days and even some weeks, and if you
want them of a bright yellow color put them, as soon as made, to dry up in
the caldana (the little room near the bread oven where the temperature is
lukewarm and the bread is put to raise). With this dose you'll make about
300 of them, and it will take a 3 eggs sfoglia*.

"Bologna is a big castle where they make continuous luncheons", used to say
a man who frequently went to Bologna to feast with friends. In the hyperbole
of this sentence there's a piece of thruth whom, a philanthropist looking
for a new kind of charity, could make use of. I'm talking of Culinary
Istitute, a kitchen school which Bologna could offer to host better than any
other city thanks to its great consumption of food, for the excellence of
the foods and the way to cook them. Nobody apparently cares about food, and
the reason is easy to understand: but then, leaving hypocrisy behind,
everybody whines about a bad tasting lunch or a sick belly due to badly
prepared foods. Being nutrition the first need of life, it's reasonable to
handle it so to satisfy it in the best possible way.

A stranger writer says: "Health, morale and happyness of the family are all
tied to the kitchen, so it would be perfect that every woman, of the people
as of the nobility, would know an art which is fertile of well being,
health, wealth and peace for the family"; and our Lorenzo Stecchetti (Olindo
Guerrini) in a conference held at Turin's Exposition on the 21 of June 1884
said: "It's necessary to stop the prejudice which accuses the kitchen of
vulgarity, because it's not vulgar that which helps to an intellectual and
elegant voluptuosness. A winemaker who works the grapes and the land to make
a good beverage, is well treaten, seen with envy and made Commendatore
(official title awarded for services to the Country). A cook who too works
the raw materials to obtain a pleasant food, be it honored and renowned,
isn't even allowed into the anteroom of important households. Bacchus is son
to Zeus, Como (the God of the canteens) is from unknown parents. But the
sage says 'Tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are'. The
peoples have a nature of theyrs, strong or vile, great or miserable, in the
vast majority of the food they use. Therefore, there's no justice in the
distribution of judgement. Kitchen has to be rehabilitated".

I therefore say that my Institute should help in raise young cooks who then,
being naturally more economic of men and of lesser expenditure, wuold easily
find themselves a job and would posses an art which, brougth to the
bourgeois homes, would be a medicine against the many quarrels who often
happen in families due to bad food; and I hear that a sage lady from a
tuscan city, in order to avoid those quarrels, has had her kitchen expanded
so to be more at ease in having fun with my book at hand.

I have given this idea so embryonal and shapeless; someone else take it up,
makes something out of it and honour himself of it f he deems the idea
praiseworthy. I think that a similar, well managed institution, collecting
the orders of the private citizens and selling the ready and cooked dishes,
could be set up, run and made wealthy with a relatively small working
capital and initial expense.

If you want gentler tortellini, add to this recipe half a capon breast
cooked in butter, an egg yolk and the good measure of all the rest (slightly
augment the other ingredients).



* FOR THE SFOGLIA (EGG-NOODLE) WRAPPING :

To wrap these, make a soft sfoglia made of all purpose flour and just egg
yolks, using also some whites if too dry, and cut it with a small disk as
the one here printed (it's circa 5 cm in diameter). Put the filling in the
center of the disks and ply them in two so to have a halfmoon shape; then
take the two opposite ends and join them together, and you'll have made the
cappelletto, or tortellino. If the dough dries up too quick, wet the disks'
edge with a wet finger. [Artusi doesn't specify that but usually, here in
Emilia Romagna, the ratio is 100 grams flour for a whole egg, so if one
wants to use just the yolks that amount of flour must be lowered a bit].

--
Vilco
Don't think pink: drink rosè

"ViLco" > wrote in message
...
> A famous old italian cookbook, made not just of recipes but also tips and
> folklore stories, is "La Scienza in cucina e l'Arte di mangiar bene"
> ("Science in the kitchen and the Art of good eating") by Pellegrino
> Artusi, born in Forlimpopoli in 1820 and dead in Firenze in 1911. He was a
> merchant and his book covers a lot of recipes from every part of Italy
> between one century and a half and ninety years ago. The last edition is
> from 1910 and lists 790 recipes. Some researchers consider ribute this
> book as the basis of the national italian kitchen.
>
> This is the paragraph about the famous tortellini alla bolognese, which
> have meanwhile changed a lot from this old version. Nowadays tortellini
> almost always see meat in the filling, and the marrow is no more commonly
> found in bolognese households and butcheries. As it usually happens with
> food traditions, they evolve. The interesting things here are the recipe
> and Artusi's idea of a cooking school, which would sustain itself by
> selling the cooked dishes to those who would order them for lunch or
> dinner. The style is old-fashioned but not too much affected. The recipe
> talks only about the filling since the instructions for making the broth,
> sfoglia (egg-noodle) and shaping the tortellini are in the first
> tortellini recipe he lists in his book ("Cappelletti all'uso di Romagna",
> made with a capon based filling), so I took those instructions and put
> them translated at the end of this recipe. I have never made tortellini
> this way until saturday, when the butcher told me they had some ox marrow.
> This recipe immediately flashed up in my mind, I called my GF and asked
> her to read me the other ingredients from the book. I bougth all what was
> needed and went straight to cook this. I didn't follow the capon breast
> variant but used capon for the broth, as is called for in almost any
> cappelletti or tortellini recipe. In the section about the Cappelletti
> all'uso di Romagna Artusi recommends using capon broth for all the four
> tortellini recipes he lists, and tortellini is the third one. They are
> wonderful, really, the only hard part has been mincing the ham since my GF
> hasn't a suitable food processor and I had to mince it with a knife. The
> smoking hot broth, 1-2mm thin sfoglia made from scratch on a 50 years old
> cutting board always used for sfoglia, the hearthy filling... they went
> wonderfully with Picol Ross lambrusco for a nice saturday lunch. The
> lambrusco were "Pjcol ross" from Rinaldini and "Nero di Cio'" from La
> Piccola, two nearby wineyards.
>
> Some of the recipes in this book by Pellegrino Artusi have changed
> noticeably in the years, a century is a very long time, so parts of his
> works are nowadays more a culinary history lesson than a real cooking
> book, but there are also lots of recipes which have remained just as they
> were when the book went printed for the first time.
>
>
>
> 9. TORTELLINI ALLA BOLOGNESE
>
>
>
> When you hear talking about bolognese kitchen just bow to it, because it
> deserves it. It's a way to cook which is a bit heavy, one could say,
> because that's what the climate asks for; but juicy, hearthy and healthy,
> in fact persons in theyr 80s and 90s are more common there than elsewhere.
> The following tortellini, even though easier and cheaper than other ones,
> aren't inferior in goodness, and you'll convince yourself if you'll try
> them.
>
>
>
> Ham, both lean and fat, grams 30.
>
> Mortadella di bologna, grams 20.
>
> Ox marrow, grams 60.
>
> Grated parmigiano, grams 60.
>
> Eggs, n. 1.
>
> A hint of nutmeg
>
> Salt and pepper, very few.
>
>
>
> Finely mince the ham and the mortadella, mince and add the marrow without
> cooking it, add it to the ham and mortadella and mix the egg in mixing
> thoroughly. They get closed in a little circle of sfoglia (egg noodle*).
> They don't suffer from being stored for days and even some weeks, and if
> you want them of a bright yellow color put them, as soon as made, to dry
> up in the caldana (the little room near the bread oven where the
> temperature is lukewarm and the bread is put to raise). With this dose
> you'll make about 300 of them, and it will take a 3 eggs sfoglia*.
>
> "Bologna is a big castle where they make continuous luncheons", used to
> say a man who frequently went to Bologna to feast with friends. In the
> hyperbole of this sentence there's a piece of thruth whom, a
> philanthropist looking for a new kind of charity, could make use of. I'm
> talking of Culinary Istitute, a kitchen school which Bologna could offer
> to host better than any other city thanks to its great consumption of
> food, for the excellence of the foods and the way to cook them. Nobody
> apparently cares about food, and the reason is easy to understand: but
> then, leaving hypocrisy behind, everybody whines about a bad tasting lunch
> or a sick belly due to badly prepared foods. Being nutrition the first
> need of life, it's reasonable to handle it so to satisfy it in the best
> possible way.
>
> A stranger writer says: "Health, morale and happyness of the family are
> all tied to the kitchen, so it would be perfect that every woman, of the
> people as of the nobility, would know an art which is fertile of well
> being, health, wealth and peace for the family"; and our Lorenzo
> Stecchetti (Olindo Guerrini) in a conference held at Turin's Exposition on
> the 21 of June 1884 said: "It's necessary to stop the prejudice which
> accuses the kitchen of vulgarity, because it's not vulgar that which helps
> to an intellectual and elegant voluptuosness. A winemaker who works the
> grapes and the land to make a good beverage, is well treaten, seen with
> envy and made Commendatore (official title awarded for services to the
> Country). A cook who too works the raw materials to obtain a pleasant
> food, be it honored and renowned, isn't even allowed into the anteroom of
> important households. Bacchus is son to Zeus, Como (the God of the
> canteens) is from unknown parents. But the sage says 'Tell me what you eat
> and I will tell you who you are'. The peoples have a nature of theyrs,
> strong or vile, great or miserable, in the vast majority of the food they
> use. Therefore, there's no justice in the distribution of judgement.
> Kitchen has to be rehabilitated".
>
> I therefore say that my Institute should help in raise young cooks who
> then, being naturally more economic of men and of lesser expenditure,
> wuold easily find themselves a job and would posses an art which, brougth
> to the bourgeois homes, would be a medicine against the many quarrels who
> often happen in families due to bad food; and I hear that a sage lady from
> a tuscan city, in order to avoid those quarrels, has had her kitchen
> expanded so to be more at ease in having fun with my book at hand.
>
> I have given this idea so embryonal and shapeless; someone else take it
> up, makes something out of it and honour himself of it f he deems the idea
> praiseworthy. I think that a similar, well managed institution, collecting
> the orders of the private citizens and selling the ready and cooked
> dishes, could be set up, run and made wealthy with a relatively small
> working capital and initial expense.
>
> If you want gentler tortellini, add to this recipe half a capon breast
> cooked in butter, an egg yolk and the good measure of all the rest
> (slightly augment the other ingredients).
>
>
>
> * FOR THE SFOGLIA (EGG-NOODLE) WRAPPING :
>
> To wrap these, make a soft sfoglia made of all purpose flour and just egg
> yolks, using also some whites if too dry, and cut it with a small disk as
> the one here printed (it's circa 5 cm in diameter). Put the filling in the
> center of the disks and ply them in two so to have a halfmoon shape; then
> take the two opposite ends and join them together, and you'll have made
> the cappelletto, or tortellino. If the dough dries up too quick, wet the
> disks' edge with a wet finger. [Artusi doesn't specify that but usually,
> here in Emilia Romagna, the ratio is 100 grams flour for a whole egg, so
> if one wants to use just the yolks that amount of flour must be lowered a
> bit].

A lovely post, Vilco Thank you and more please)

--
--
https://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/

ViLco wrote:
> A famous old italian cookbook, made not just of recipes but also tips and
> folklore stories, is "La Scienza in cucina e l'Arte di mangiar bene"
> ("Science in the kitchen and the Art of good eating") by Pellegrino Artusi,
> born in Forlimpopoli in 1820 and dead in Firenze in 1911. He was a merchant
> and his book covers a lot of recipes from every part of Italy between one
> century and a half and ninety years ago. The last edition is from 1910 and
> lists 790 recipes. Some researchers consider ribute this book as the basis
> of the national italian kitchen.
>
> This is the paragraph about the famous tortellini alla bolognese, which have
> meanwhile changed a lot from this old version. Nowadays tortellini almost
> always see meat in the filling, and the marrow is no more commonly found in
> bolognese households and butcheries. As it usually happens with food
> traditions, they evolve. The interesting things here are the recipe and
> Artusi's idea of a cooking school, which would sustain itself by selling the
> cooked dishes to those who would order them for lunch or dinner. The style
> is old-fashioned but not too much affected. The recipe talks only about the
> filling since the instructions for making the broth, sfoglia (egg-noodle)
> and shaping the tortellini are in the first tortellini recipe he lists in
> his book ("Cappelletti all'uso di Romagna", made with a capon based
> filling), so I took those instructions and put them translated at the end of
> this recipe. I have never made tortellini this way until saturday, when the
> butcher told me they had some ox marrow. This recipe immediately flashed up
> in my mind, I called my GF and asked her to read me the other ingredients
> from the book. I bougth all what was needed and went straight to cook this.
> I didn't follow the capon breast variant but used capon for the broth, as is
> called for in almost any cappelletti or tortellini recipe. In the section
> about the Cappelletti all'uso di Romagna Artusi recommends using capon broth
> for all the four tortellini recipes he lists, and tortellini is the third
> one. They are wonderful, really, the only hard part has been mincing the ham
> since my GF hasn't a suitable food processor and I had to mince it with a
> knife. The smoking hot broth, 1-2mm thin sfoglia made from scratch on a 50
> years old cutting board always used for sfoglia, the hearthy filling... they
> went wonderfully with Picol Ross lambrusco for a nice saturday lunch. The
> lambrusco were "Pjcol ross" from Rinaldini and "Nero di Cio'" from La
> Piccola, two nearby wineyards.
>
> Some of the recipes in this book by Pellegrino Artusi have changed
> noticeably in the years, a century is a very long time, so parts of his
> works are nowadays more a culinary history lesson than a real cooking book,
> but there are also lots of recipes which have remained just as they were
> when the book went printed for the first time.
>
>
>
> 9. TORTELLINI ALLA BOLOGNESE
>
>
>
> When you hear talking about bolognese kitchen just bow to it, because it
> deserves it. It's a way to cook which is a bit heavy, one could say, because
> that's what the climate asks for; but juicy, hearthy and healthy, in fact
> persons in theyr 80s and 90s are more common there than elsewhere. The
> following tortellini, even though easier and cheaper than other ones, aren't
> inferior in goodness, and you'll convince yourself if you'll try them.
>
>
>
> Ham, both lean and fat, grams 30.
>
> Mortadella di bologna, grams 20.
>
> Ox marrow, grams 60.
>
> Grated parmigiano, grams 60.
>
> Eggs, n. 1.
>
> A hint of nutmeg
>
> Salt and pepper, very few.
>
>
>
> Finely mince the ham and the mortadella, mince and add the marrow without
> cooking it, add it to the ham and mortadella and mix the egg in mixing
> thoroughly. They get closed in a little circle of sfoglia (egg noodle*).
> They don't suffer from being stored for days and even some weeks, and if you
> want them of a bright yellow color put them, as soon as made, to dry up in
> the caldana (the little room near the bread oven where the temperature is
> lukewarm and the bread is put to raise). With this dose you'll make about
> 300 of them, and it will take a 3 eggs sfoglia*.
>
> "Bologna is a big castle where they make continuous luncheons", used to say
> a man who frequently went to Bologna to feast with friends. In the hyperbole
> of this sentence there's a piece of thruth whom, a philanthropist looking
> for a new kind of charity, could make use of. I'm talking of Culinary
> Istitute, a kitchen school which Bologna could offer to host better than any
> other city thanks to its great consumption of food, for the excellence of
> the foods and the way to cook them. Nobody apparently cares about food, and
> the reason is easy to understand: but then, leaving hypocrisy behind,
> everybody whines about a bad tasting lunch or a sick belly due to badly
> prepared foods. Being nutrition the first need of life, it's reasonable to
> handle it so to satisfy it in the best possible way.
>
> A stranger writer says: "Health, morale and happyness of the family are all
> tied to the kitchen, so it would be perfect that every woman, of the people
> as of the nobility, would know an art which is fertile of well being,
> health, wealth and peace for the family"; and our Lorenzo Stecchetti (Olindo
> Guerrini) in a conference held at Turin's Exposition on the 21 of June 1884
> said: "It's necessary to stop the prejudice which accuses the kitchen of
> vulgarity, because it's not vulgar that which helps to an intellectual and
> elegant voluptuosness. A winemaker who works the grapes and the land to make
> a good beverage, is well treaten, seen with envy and made Commendatore
> (official title awarded for services to the Country). A cook who too works
> the raw materials to obtain a pleasant food, be it honored and renowned,
> isn't even allowed into the anteroom of important households. Bacchus is son
> to Zeus, Como (the God of the canteens) is from unknown parents. But the
> sage says 'Tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are'. The
> peoples have a nature of theyrs, strong or vile, great or miserable, in the
> vast majority of the food they use. Therefore, there's no justice in the
> distribution of judgement. Kitchen has to be rehabilitated".
>
> I therefore say that my Institute should help in raise young cooks who then,
> being naturally more economic of men and of lesser expenditure, wuold easily
> find themselves a job and would posses an art which, brougth to the
> bourgeois homes, would be a medicine against the many quarrels who often
> happen in families due to bad food; and I hear that a sage lady from a
> tuscan city, in order to avoid those quarrels, has had her kitchen expanded
> so to be more at ease in having fun with my book at hand.
>
> I have given this idea so embryonal and shapeless; someone else take it up,
> makes something out of it and honour himself of it f he deems the idea
> praiseworthy. I think that a similar, well managed institution, collecting
> the orders of the private citizens and selling the ready and cooked dishes,
> could be set up, run and made wealthy with a relatively small working
> capital and initial expense.
>
> If you want gentler tortellini, add to this recipe half a capon breast
> cooked in butter, an egg yolk and the good measure of all the rest (slightly
> augment the other ingredients).
>
>
>
> * FOR THE SFOGLIA (EGG-NOODLE) WRAPPING :
>
> To wrap these, make a soft sfoglia made of all purpose flour and just egg
> yolks, using also some whites if too dry, and cut it with a small disk as
> the one here printed (it's circa 5 cm in diameter). Put the filling in the
> center of the disks and ply them in two so to have a halfmoon shape; then
> take the two opposite ends and join them together, and you'll have made the
> cappelletto, or tortellino. If the dough dries up too quick, wet the disks'
> edge with a wet finger. [Artusi doesn't specify that but usually, here in
> Emilia Romagna, the ratio is 100 grams flour for a whole egg, so if one
> wants to use just the yolks that amount of flour must be lowered a bit].
>
Saved! Thank you!

--
Jean B.

ViLco wrote:
>
> A famous old italian cookbook, made not just of recipes but also tips and
> folklore stories, is "La Scienza in cucina e l'Arte di mangiar bene"
> ("Science in the kitchen and the Art of good eating") by Pellegrino Artusi,
> born in Forlimpopoli in 1820 and dead in Firenze in 1911. He was a merchant
> and his book covers a lot of recipes from every part of Italy between one
> century and a half and ninety years ago. The last edition is from 1910 and
> lists 790 recipes. Some researchers consider ribute this book as the basis
> of the national italian kitchen.
>
> This is the paragraph about the famous tortellini alla bolognese, which have
> meanwhile changed a lot from this old version. Nowadays tortellini almost
> always see meat in the filling, and the marrow is no more commonly found in
> bolognese households and butcheries. As it usually happens with food
> traditions, they evolve. The interesting things here are the recipe and
> Artusi's idea of a cooking school, which would sustain itself by selling the
> cooked dishes to those who would order them for lunch or dinner. The style
> is old-fashioned but not too much affected. The recipe talks only about the
> filling since the instructions for making the broth, sfoglia (egg-noodle)
> and shaping the tortellini are in the first tortellini recipe he lists in
> his book ("Cappelletti all'uso di Romagna", made with a capon based
> filling), so I took those instructions and put them translated at the end of
> this recipe. I have never made tortellini this way until saturday, when the
> butcher told me they had some ox marrow. This recipe immediately flashed up
> in my mind, I called my GF and asked her to read me the other ingredients
> from the book. I bougth all what was needed and went straight to cook this.
> I didn't follow the capon breast variant but used capon for the broth, as is
> called for in almost any cappelletti or tortellini recipe. In the section
> about the Cappelletti all'uso di Romagna Artusi recommends using capon broth
> for all the four tortellini recipes he lists, and tortellini is the third
> one. They are wonderful, really, the only hard part has been mincing the ham
> since my GF hasn't a suitable food processor and I had to mince it with a
> knife. The smoking hot broth, 1-2mm thin sfoglia made from scratch on a 50
> years old cutting board always used for sfoglia, the hearthy filling... they
> went wonderfully with Picol Ross lambrusco for a nice saturday lunch. The
> lambrusco were "Pjcol ross" from Rinaldini and "Nero di Cio'" from La
> Piccola, two nearby wineyards.
>
> Some of the recipes in this book by Pellegrino Artusi have changed
> noticeably in the years, a century is a very long time, so parts of his
> works are nowadays more a culinary history lesson than a real cooking book,
> but there are also lots of recipes which have remained just as they were
> when the book went printed for the first time.
>
> 9. TORTELLINI ALLA BOLOGNESE
>
> When you hear talking about bolognese kitchen just bow to it, because it
> deserves it. It's a way to cook which is a bit heavy, one could say, because
> that's what the climate asks for; but juicy, hearthy and healthy, in fact
> persons in theyr 80s and 90s are more common there than elsewhere. The
> following tortellini, even though easier and cheaper than other ones, aren't
> inferior in goodness, and you'll convince yourself if you'll try them.
>
> Ham, both lean and fat, grams 30.
>
> Mortadella di bologna, grams 20.
>
> Ox marrow, grams 60.
>
> Grated parmigiano, grams 60.
>
> Eggs, n. 1.
>
> A hint of nutmeg
>
> Salt and pepper, very few.
>
> Finely mince the ham and the mortadella, mince and add the marrow without
> cooking it, add it to the ham and mortadella and mix the egg in mixing
> thoroughly. They get closed in a little circle of sfoglia (egg noodle*).
> They don't suffer from being stored for days and even some weeks, and if you
> want them of a bright yellow color put them, as soon as made, to dry up in
> the caldana (the little room near the bread oven where the temperature is
> lukewarm and the bread is put to raise). With this dose you'll make about
> 300 of them, and it will take a 3 eggs sfoglia*.
>
> "Bologna is a big castle where they make continuous luncheons", used to say
> a man who frequently went to Bologna to feast with friends. In the hyperbole
> of this sentence there's a piece of thruth whom, a philanthropist looking
> for a new kind of charity, could make use of. I'm talking of Culinary
> Istitute, a kitchen school which Bologna could offer to host better than any
> other city thanks to its great consumption of food, for the excellence of
> the foods and the way to cook them. Nobody apparently cares about food, and
> the reason is easy to understand: but then, leaving hypocrisy behind,
> everybody whines about a bad tasting lunch or a sick belly due to badly
> prepared foods. Being nutrition the first need of life, it's reasonable to
> handle it so to satisfy it in the best possible way.
>
> A stranger writer says: "Health, morale and happyness of the family are all
> tied to the kitchen, so it would be perfect that every woman, of the people
> as of the nobility, would know an art which is fertile of well being,
> health, wealth and peace for the family"; and our Lorenzo Stecchetti (Olindo
> Guerrini) in a conference held at Turin's Exposition on the 21 of June 1884
> said: "It's necessary to stop the prejudice which accuses the kitchen of
> vulgarity, because it's not vulgar that which helps to an intellectual and
> elegant voluptuosness. A winemaker who works the grapes and the land to make
> a good beverage, is well treaten, seen with envy and made Commendatore
> (official title awarded for services to the Country). A cook who too works
> the raw materials to obtain a pleasant food, be it honored and renowned,
> isn't even allowed into the anteroom of important households. Bacchus is son
> to Zeus, Como (the God of the canteens) is from unknown parents. But the
> sage says 'Tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are'. The
> peoples have a nature of theyrs, strong or vile, great or miserable, in the
> vast majority of the food they use. Therefore, there's no justice in the
> distribution of judgement. Kitchen has to be rehabilitated".
>
> I therefore say that my Institute should help in raise young cooks who then,
> being naturally more economic of men and of lesser expenditure, wuold easily
> find themselves a job and would posses an art which, brougth to the
> bourgeois homes, would be a medicine against the many quarrels who often
> happen in families due to bad food; and I hear that a sage lady from a
> tuscan city, in order to avoid those quarrels, has had her kitchen expanded
> so to be more at ease in having fun with my book at hand.
>
> I have given this idea so embryonal and shapeless; someone else take it up,
> makes something out of it and honour himself of it f he deems the idea
> praiseworthy. I think that a similar, well managed institution, collecting
> the orders of the private citizens and selling the ready and cooked dishes,
> could be set up, run and made wealthy with a relatively small working
> capital and initial expense.
>
> If you want gentler tortellini, add to this recipe half a capon breast
> cooked in butter, an egg yolk and the good measure of all the rest (slightly
> augment the other ingredients).
>
> * FOR THE SFOGLIA (EGG-NOODLE) WRAPPING :
>
> To wrap these, make a soft sfoglia made of all purpose flour and just egg
> yolks, using also some whites if too dry, and cut it with a small disk as
> the one here printed (it's circa 5 cm in diameter). Put the filling in the
> center of the disks and ply them in two so to have a halfmoon shape; then
> take the two opposite ends and join them together, and you'll have made the
> cappelletto, or tortellino. If the dough dries up too quick, wet the disks'
> edge with a wet finger. [Artusi doesn't specify that but usually, here in
> Emilia Romagna, the ratio is 100 grams flour for a whole egg, so if one
> wants to use just the yolks that amount of flour must be lowered a bit].
>
> --
> Vilco
> Don't think pink: drink rosè

Quite a culinary adventure. Saved for when I am feeling ambitious...