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Default Marcella Hazan's Response to McGee's Column about Oils

In article
<arabianknits-D69421.11403817112010@reserved-multicast-range-NOT-delegat
ed.example.com>,
Ranée at Arabian Knits > wrote:

> From her facebook page:
>
> "When I read Harold McGee's column in the Times this morning, it was
> discouraging once again to see a scientist writing about cooking as a
> scientist. You can only make sense about cooking if you write as a cook.
> Mr McGee points out that fine olive oils no longer taste like fine olive
> oils when they are fried. What else is new? What matters in cooking is
> how dishes that are made in olive oil taste."


I found this very confusing. Aren't they saying the same thing? Here's
the article (I think) so you can read McGee's words:

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/11/17/di...ewanted=1&_r=1

> Not to mention that some people use olive oil for health benefits as
> well.


All the article says, is that if you take really expensive olive oil,
the kind with special flavor and fragrance, and heat it up to frying
temperatures, it loses those special qualities. Thus, you should use a
cheaper olive oil for frying your food. Either save your expensive
stuff for other preparation techniques, or drizzle it on the fried food
afterwards.

--
Dan Abel
Petaluma, California USA

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Default Marcella Hazan's Response to McGee's Column about Oils

In article
<arabianknits-31060A.16080317112010@reserved-multicast-range-NOT-delegat
ed.example.com>,
Ranée at Arabian Knits > wrote:

> In article
> >,
> Dan Abel > wrote:
>
> > In article
> > <arabianknits-D69421.11403817112010@reserved-multicast-range-NOT-delegat
> > ed.example.com>,
> > Ranée at Arabian Knits > wrote:
> >
> > > From her facebook page:
> > >
> > > "When I read Harold McGee's column in the Times this morning, it was
> > > discouraging once again to see a scientist writing about cooking as a
> > > scientist. You can only make sense about cooking if you write as a cook.
> > > Mr McGee points out that fine olive oils no longer taste like fine olive
> > > oils when they are fried. What else is new? What matters in cooking is
> > > how dishes that are made in olive oil taste."

> >
> > I found this very confusing. Aren't they saying the same thing? Here's
> > the article (I think) so you can read McGee's words:
> >
> > http://www.nytimes.com/2010/11/17/di...ewanted=1&_r=1

>
> I understood him to be saying that there was no point to cooking with
> olive oil because of it. She was saying that cooking with it produces a
> different taste than not cooking with it, but it is not the same taste
> as cooking with other oils. You can't say olive oil changes its flavor
> so just use whatever else you have. Meat also changes in flavor when it
> is cooked. So do vegetables. That's part of why we cook them, to get
> that different flavor.
>
> My people cooked with animal fat and olive oil exclusively until
> westernization. Most cultures with olives cooked with olive oil.
>
> > > Not to mention that some people use olive oil for health benefits as
> > > well.

> >
> > All the article says, is that if you take really expensive olive oil,
> > the kind with special flavor and fragrance, and heat it up to frying
> > temperatures, it loses those special qualities. Thus, you should use a
> > cheaper olive oil for frying your food. Either save your expensive
> > stuff for other preparation techniques, or drizzle it on the fried food
> > afterwards.

>
> The taste of cooked extra virgin is different than the taste of
> cooked second press olive oil. Why would I want to use the second when
> I like the first?


Thanks for explaining that, Ranée. To be honest, I do not have the
knowledge or experience to comment on premium olive oils. We buy the
giant jugs at Costco, partly for the health benefits. They are marked
EVOO, but are not the premium types with the delicate flavor.

--
Dan Abel
Petaluma, California USA

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