Funny thing happened! I discovered a box by my front door this afternoon.
Turns out the element the Sears technician ordered for my oven was shipped
to me directly! How about you email me and talk me through it? Maybe I can
install it myself and save the service fee. And he wasn't *completely*
convinced it needs a new thermostat, just said maybe and thought it would be
better to go ahead and replace it. But, if I can fix this myself that would
be ideal.

Jill

On 23/02/2011 6:47 PM, jmcquown wrote:
> Funny thing happened! I discovered a box by my front door this
> afternoon. Turns out the element the Sears technician ordered for my
> oven was shipped to me directly! How about you email me and talk me
> through it? Maybe I can install it myself and save the service fee. And
> he wasn't *completely* convinced it needs a new thermostat, just said
> maybe and thought it would be better to go ahead and replace it. But, if
> I can fix this myself that would be ideal.
>


It's a piece of cake, and probably the only tool you will need is a
Phillips screw driver.


Pull the unit out and disconnect the power cord.
Open the door, or remove it completely to make it easier to get in
there. Just open the door part way and slide it up on the bracket.

There are two brackets where the element is mounted into the back wall.
|There will be one or two screws in each. Remove them and the element
should slide right out.

There will be a wire attached to each end of the element. They will be
attached either with a slip on connector or with a screw. Remove the old
element, attach the new one, screw the bracket into place, put the door
on, plug the oven in, push it back into place and sit back and count the
money you just saved for five minutes work.

On Wed, 23 Feb 2011 18:47:29 -0500, "jmcquown" >
wrote:

> Funny thing happened! I discovered a box by my front door this afternoon.
> Turns out the element the Sears technician ordered for my oven was shipped
> to me directly! How about you email me and talk me through it? Maybe I can
> install it myself and save the service fee. And he wasn't *completely*
> convinced it needs a new thermostat, just said maybe and thought it would be
> better to go ahead and replace it. But, if I can fix this myself that would
> be ideal.
>
I think Boli is the one you need for that.

--

Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held its ground.

"sf" > wrote in message
...
> On Wed, 23 Feb 2011 18:47:29 -0500, "jmcquown" >
> wrote:
>
>> Funny thing happened! I discovered a box by my front door this
>> afternoon.
>> Turns out the element the Sears technician ordered for my oven was
>> shipped
>> to me directly! How about you email me and talk me through it? Maybe I
>> can
>> install it myself and save the service fee. And he wasn't *completely*
>> convinced it needs a new thermostat, just said maybe and thought it would
>> be
>> better to go ahead and replace it. But, if I can fix this myself that
>> would
>> be ideal.
>>
> I think Boli is the one you need for that.
>
> --
Where the heck is he? He needs to jump in his truck and drive right on
down! I'll buy lunch. Or bake something

Jill

On 24/02/2011 7:31 AM, lid wrote:

>> It's not new, the oven came with the house which was built in 1987. And
>> yes, I know to shut the power off at the breaker box. That's what the
>> technician did when he came out to diagnose the problem. I just wasn't
>> expecting the element he ordered to be shipped directly to me. I figured
>> they'd send it to the repair shop and he'd bring it with him when he arrived
>> for the appointment on March 8th. If I can install it myself I'll save
>> another service charge.
>>
>> Jill
> I would expect the cost of the installation trip is included in the
> total bill. If you damage the element or it does not fix the problem,
> you will probably be out more $.

I would not count on the second trip being free when dealing with repair
service that takes a week to get out to see the oven and then another
week to get the part. I would have expected that a repairman coming out
to fix and oven with a likely burned out element would show up with a
supply of elements. There aren't that many sizes and shapes to deal with.

How would you expect her to damage the element. Short of dropping it
onto a hard floor from great height, or slamming it in a door, it would
be hard to damage an oven element.

On Thu, 24 Feb 2011 09:26:49 -0500, Dave Smith wrote:

> On 24/02/2011 7:31 AM, lid wrote:
>
>>> It's not new, the oven came with the house which was built in 1987.
>>> And yes, I know to shut the power off at the breaker box. That's what
>>> the technician did when he came out to diagnose the problem. I just
>>> wasn't expecting the element he ordered to be shipped directly to me.
>>> I figured they'd send it to the repair shop and he'd bring it with him
>>> when he arrived for the appointment on March 8th. If I can install it
>>> myself I'll save another service charge.
>>>
>>> Jill
>> I would expect the cost of the installation trip is included in the
>> total bill. If you damage the element or it does not fix the problem,
>> you will probably be out more $.
>
> I would not count on the second trip being free when dealing with repair
> service that takes a week to get out to see the oven and then another
> week to get the part. I would have expected that a repairman coming out
> to fix and oven with a likely burned out element would show up with a
> supply of elements. There aren't that many sizes and shapes to deal
> with.
>
> How would you expect her to damage the element. Short of dropping it
> onto a hard floor from great height, or slamming it in a door, it would
> be hard to damage an oven element.
Not really- if the screw-on wire type, fairly easy to strip screw when
tightening or easy to break off spot-welded terminal due to inadequate
support when tightening or plugging terminal on.
Wires that have heated many cycles tend toward being brittle also.
Coupled with difficult access many unexpected problems can arise.


--
Mr.E

On Thu, 24 Feb 2011 09:26:03 -0500, "jmcquown" >
wrote:

>
> "sf" > wrote in message
> ...
> > On Wed, 23 Feb 2011 18:47:29 -0500, "jmcquown" >
> > wrote:
> >
> >> Funny thing happened! I discovered a box by my front door this
> >> afternoon.
> >> Turns out the element the Sears technician ordered for my oven was
> >> shipped
> >> to me directly! How about you email me and talk me through it? Maybe I
> >> can
> >> install it myself and save the service fee. And he wasn't *completely*
> >> convinced it needs a new thermostat, just said maybe and thought it would
> >> be
> >> better to go ahead and replace it. But, if I can fix this myself that
> >> would
> >> be ideal.
> >>
> > I think Boli is the one you need for that.
> >
> > --
> Where the heck is he? He needs to jump in his truck and drive right on
> down! I'll buy lunch. Or bake something
>
> Jill

There ya go! You can turn it into an rfc mini-cook-in.

--

Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held its ground.

On Thu, 24 Feb 2011 07:31:28 -0500, lid wrote:

> I would expect the cost of the installation trip is included in the
> total bill. If you damage the element or it does not fix the problem,
> you will probably be out more $.

Wait just a freekin minute here. Something is not adding up... I'm
supposed to be able to build and code computers and told that I'm "not
willing to learn something new" because I don't want to, but Jill is
told not to fix her oven herself or she'll be out more $$ if she
screws it up. <not picking on you E, just sayin rfc is a bit
schizophrenic>

--

Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held its ground.

On Feb 23, 3:47*pm, "jmcquown" > wrote:
> Funny thing happened! *I discovered a box by my front door this afternoon.
> Turns out the element the Sears technician ordered for my oven was shipped
> to me directly! *How about you email me and talk me through it? *Maybe I can
> install it myself and save the service fee. *And he wasn't *completely*
> convinced it needs a new thermostat, just said maybe and thought it would be
> better to go ahead and replace it. *But, if I can fix this myself that would
> be ideal.
>

If you're still hesitant after you receive responses, see if your
stove's repair manual is online. Google the model number, part number,
etc. I have found manuals complete with line drawings for just about
everything I own that was built in the last 30-40 years.

On Wed, 23 Feb 2011 19:06:07 -0500, Dave Smith
> wrote:

>On 23/02/2011 6:47 PM, jmcquown wrote:
>> Funny thing happened! I discovered a box by my front door this
>> afternoon. Turns out the element the Sears technician ordered for my
>> oven was shipped to me directly! How about you email me and talk me
>> through it? Maybe I can install it myself and save the service fee. And
>> he wasn't *completely* convinced it needs a new thermostat, just said
>> maybe and thought it would be better to go ahead and replace it. But, if
>> I can fix this myself that would be ideal.
>>
>
>
>It's a piece of cake, and probably the only tool you will need is a
>Phillips screw driver.
>
>
>Pull the unit out and disconnect the power cord.
>Open the door, or remove it completely to make it easier to get in
>there. Just open the door part way and slide it up on the bracket.
>
>There are two brackets where the element is mounted into the back wall.
>|There will be one or two screws in each. Remove them and the element
>should slide right out.
>
>There will be a wire attached to each end of the element. They will be
>attached either with a slip on connector or with a screw. Remove the old
>element, attach the new one, screw the bracket into place, put the door
>on, plug the oven in, push it back into place and sit back and count the
>money you just saved for five minutes work.


Instead of pulling the stove out, throw the breaker or remove the
fuse. I don't believe that there is any need to get to the back of
stove. Then check by trying to turn on a burner. Or check the oven
light if it normally works.

Then take the new element and look at it carefully and make sure it
looks just like the old one. Maybe set it on top of the old one to
make sure it fits. Thermostat may be a bit trickier.

No, I haven't done it myself, but watched as my husband replaced one
in our stove.

Don't lose the screws.
--
Susan N.

"Moral indignation is in most cases two percent moral,
48 percent indignation, and 50 percent envy."
Vittorio De Sica, Italian movie director (1901-1974)

"sf" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 24 Feb 2011 09:26:03 -0500, "jmcquown" >
> wrote:
>> > I think Boli is the one you need for that.
>> >
>> > --
>> Where the heck is he? He needs to jump in his truck and drive right on
>> down! I'll buy lunch. Or bake something
>>
>
> There ya go! You can turn it into an rfc mini-cook-in.
>
> --
I'd be more than happy to host a mini cook-in! Just need to get that oven
fixed first. I'd want to be able to bake a pan of cornbread

Jill

On 25/02/2011 3:30 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>

>> It's really a matter of attitude and tools. If the oven element is
>> visible in the oven, it should come out with two screws--it's really
>> hard to mess up the repair unless you manage to break a wire.
>
> Well that can indeed occur. When I have a repair policy I don't
> attempt any repairs myself, if something breaks it voids the policy...
> it's just too easy to strip a thread on sheetmetal.
>
> But what really perplexes me is that when someone calls for a repair
> of say a stove oven with an element that won't heat that the repair
> facility didn't ask which model stove... I've never heard of anything
> so ridculously unbeliveable... I've phoned to have appliances repaired
> and the very first question, even before your name, is what model and
> serial number...



I am hoping that Jill is re-evaluating her appliance repair insurance. I
have no idea how much she is paying for the policy, but she pays $60 for
a service call. She has been without a oven for what.... three weeks
now? It took a week for the serviceman to come and then another week or
so for the part and it will be more than a week before the guy can
return. Any time I have called a repairman the guy has been at my house
before the end of the day and the problem was fixed. Elements are so
highly specialized that a dealer or repair depot should not be expected
to carry a suitable one in stock.

Look at my situation on the weekend. The element blew around noon. It
was replaced and repaired within two hours, and most of that time was
spent making and eating brunch.





the service tech would never arrive without knowing
> in advance which model and the specific complaint... while still on
> the phone they'd check and they'd either have the part or say they
> need to order it. Service techs do not make social calls just say
> hello. Something doesn't equate here, especially about shipping a
> part to the customer that the tech is going to install, that simply
> does not happen.

On Fri, 25 Feb 2011 16:15:31 -0500, Dave Smith
> wrote:

>On 25/02/2011 3:30 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>>
>
>>> It's really a matter of attitude and tools. If the oven element is
>>> visible in the oven, it should come out with two screws--it's really
>>> hard to mess up the repair unless you manage to break a wire.
>>
>> Well that can indeed occur. When I have a repair policy I don't
>> attempt any repairs myself, if something breaks it voids the policy...
>> it's just too easy to strip a thread on sheetmetal.
>>
>> But what really perplexes me is that when someone calls for a repair
>> of say a stove oven with an element that won't heat that the repair
>> facility didn't ask which model stove... I've never heard of anything
>> so ridculously unbeliveable... I've phoned to have appliances repaired
>> and the very first question, even before your name, is what model and
>> serial number...
>
>
>
>I am hoping that Jill is re-evaluating her appliance repair insurance. I
>have no idea how much she is paying for the policy, but she pays $60 for
>a service call.

From the description I think she has one of those all inclusive
policys that realtors tout, covers all the mechanicals, appliances
roof, plumbing, etc.

On 25/02/2011 6:38 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:

>>
>> I am hoping that Jill is re-evaluating her appliance repair insurance. I
>> have no idea how much she is paying for the policy, but she pays $60 for
>> a service call.
>
> From the description I think she has one of those all inclusive
> policys that realtors tout, covers all the mechanicals, appliances
> roof, plumbing, etc.


That could be, and from her problems getting her oven fixed I would
suggest that it is useless. She probably would have been better off to
just called a local repairman who would have come out, replaced the
burner element three weeks ago and she would have paid for parts and one
service call.

On Fri, 25 Feb 2011 18:54:40 -0500, Dave Smith
> wrote:

>On 25/02/2011 6:38 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>
>>>
>>> I am hoping that Jill is re-evaluating her appliance repair insurance. I
>>> have no idea how much she is paying for the policy, but she pays $60 for
>>> a service call.
>>
>> From the description I think she has one of those all inclusive
>> policys that realtors tout, covers all the mechanicals, appliances
>> roof, plumbing, etc.
>
>
>That could be, and from her problems getting her oven fixed I would
>suggest that it is useless. She probably would have been better off to
>just called a local repairman who would have come out, replaced the
>burner element three weeks ago and she would have paid for parts and one
>service call.

True. When my clothes dryer needed service last summer the service
tech came out that afternoon. He charges $55 for the service call
which covers the first 1/2 hour labor, parts extra. I needed no
parts, only a disassembly of the entire lint trap housing, clean out,
and reassembly. He was here only 20 minutes so all I paid was the $55.
This was an old dryer, I had no service policy. But when I called the
first thing I was asked was which model and then what was the problem.
He knew immediately what to do when someone drops something down into
the lint trap flue. It never would have paid for me to try to figure
out what to take apart, I could tell that he did that job many times
before.

In article > ,
Dave Smith > wrote:

> On 25/02/2011 6:38 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>
> >>
> >> I am hoping that Jill is re-evaluating her appliance repair insurance. I
> >> have no idea how much she is paying for the policy, but she pays $60 for
> >> a service call.
> >
> > From the description I think she has one of those all inclusive
> > policys that realtors tout, covers all the mechanicals, appliances
> > roof, plumbing, etc.
>
>
> That could be, and from her problems getting her oven fixed I would
> suggest that it is useless. She probably would have been better off to
> just called a local repairman who would have come out, replaced the
> burner element three weeks ago and she would have paid for parts and one
> service call.

20/20 hindsight is a wonderful thing. After somebody pays US$60 for a
new lightbulb, it's easy to say that there's a cheaper way. But if the
magnetron in her stove went out, the compressor in her fridge and the
guts in her AC all died and she got all three fixed for US$60, you'd be
singing a different tune.

--
Dan Abel
Petaluma, California USA

On 25/02/2011 8:16 PM, Dan Abel wrote:
> In ng.com>,
> Dave > wrote:
>
>> On 25/02/2011 6:38 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>>> I am hoping that Jill is re-evaluating her appliance repair insurance. I
>>>> have no idea how much she is paying for the policy, but she pays $60 for
>>>> a service call.
>>>
>>> From the description I think she has one of those all inclusive
>>> policys that realtors tout, covers all the mechanicals, appliances
>>> roof, plumbing, etc.
>>
>>
>> That could be, and from her problems getting her oven fixed I would
>> suggest that it is useless. She probably would have been better off to
>> just called a local repairman who would have come out, replaced the
>> burner element three weeks ago and she would have paid for parts and one
>> service call.
>
> 20/20 hindsight is a wonderful thing. After somebody pays US$60 for a
> new lightbulb, it's easy to say that there's a cheaper way. But if the
> magnetron in her stove went out, the compressor in her fridge and the
> guts in her AC all died and she got all three fixed for US$60, you'd be
> singing a different tune.
>

It is no longer hindsight. She now knows that if an appliance fails she
will have to pay for at least two visits and wait for parts that should
have been readily available. Given the premiums she has been paying and
the service calls, she is likely already way behind. Hopefully, when
the time comes to renew the insurance policy she will take a pass.

"Dan Abel" > wrote
>
> 20/20 hindsight is a wonderful thing. After somebody pays US$60 for a
> new lightbulb, it's easy to say that there's a cheaper way. But if the
> magnetron in her stove went out, the compressor in her fridge and the
> guts in her AC all died and she got all three fixed for US$60, you'd be
> singing a different tune.

But if you put the money you'd spend on service policies and extended
warranties aside, you'd have plenty of money to pay for service calls or
replacements items. Very few people come out ahead and the premiums pay for
the administration, salaries, profit for the service company.

Same with some auto dealer services that are not needed. My dealer
recommends fuel injection service every year for $120. That would be $240
for my two cars. I've driven fuel injected cars for at least 25 years and
have never had an injector problem. That puts me ahead $6000 over that
time period. If, by chance, I need a $250 repair I'll still be $5750 ahead.
Better in my pocket than a car dealer.

I also change oil at 7500 miles, not the 3000 often wrongly touted as proper
interval.

Dan wrote:

> if the magnetron in her stove went out

I can just imagine *that* service call!

Bob

"Ed Pawlowski" > wrote:

>
>"Dan Abel" > wrote
>>
>> 20/20 hindsight is a wonderful thing. After somebody pays US$60 for a
>> new lightbulb, it's easy to say that there's a cheaper way. But if the
>> magnetron in her stove went out, the compressor in her fridge and the
>> guts in her AC all died and she got all three fixed for US$60, you'd be
>> singing a different tune.
>
>But if you put the money you'd spend on service policies and extended
>warranties aside, you'd have plenty of money to pay for service calls or
>replacements items. Very few people come out ahead and the premiums pay for
>the administration, salaries, profit for the service company.
>
>Same with some auto dealer services that are not needed. My dealer
>recommends fuel injection service every year for $120. That would be $240
>for my two cars. I've driven fuel injected cars for at least 25 years and
>have never had an injector problem.

You just got lucky. My 95 Taurus had an injector problem. . . at
130,000miles. Cost nearly $200 to replace them all.<g>
[I've never paid for injector service on any cars, either]

>That puts me ahead $6000 over that
>time period. If, by chance, I need a $250 repair I'll still be $5750 ahead.
>Better in my pocket than a car dealer.
>
>I also change oil at 7500 miles, not the 3000 often wrongly touted as proper
>interval.

30 years ago I was a 3K changer. Oil & engines are better now. And
they have a computer monitoring driving habits and engine condition. I
let the car tell me when it needs a change. [usually in the 6-8k
range]

On home appliances-- by the time they need a repair, I'm probably
ready for an update/upgrade anyway. [though I'll fix it myself if it
looks cheap and easy]

But- some folks sleep better if they pay for a warranty.

Jim

On Fri, 25 Feb 2011 21:40:51 -0800, "Bob Terwilliger"
> wrote:

>Dan wrote:
>
>> if the magnetron in her pussy went out
>
>I can just imagine *that* service call!
>
>Bob

>.<

On 25/02/2011 11:53 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

>
> Same with some auto dealer services that are not needed. My dealer
> recommends fuel injection service every year for $120. That would be
> $240 for my two cars. I've driven fuel injected cars for at least 25
> years and have never had an injector problem. That puts me ahead $6000
> over that time period. If, by chance, I need a $250 repair I'll still be
> $5750 ahead. Better in my pocket than a car dealer.

A few years ago I was getting a quick oil change when one of the guys
came out and told me my car was due for injector treatment. I asked for
an explanation and he said that they should have the treatment every
months or miles. He had no idea if or when I had ever had it done. I
asked how much it was.... $32.95. I asked if he thought I was going to
pay $32.95 for a bottle of isopropyll alcohol. The woman sitting next to
me said "Good for you. The got me".

>
> I also change oil at 7500 miles, not the 3000 often wrongly touted as
> proper interval.

That could be risky. I often go over the time periods but I do get my
oil changed every 3,000 miles. Oil changes are one way to extend engine
life and ignoring them can get expensive.

Dave Smith > wrote:

>On 25/02/2011 11:53 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
-snip-
>
>>
>> I also change oil at 7500 miles, not the 3000 often wrongly touted as
>> proper interval.
>
>That could be risky. I often go over the time periods but I do get my
>oil changed every 3,000 miles. Oil changes are one way to extend engine
>life and ignoring them can get expensive.

I don't know how often it got changed in the first 100k-- but my
daughter just traded in her perfectly running 1997 Grand Am that she
changed when the dash light told her to. It had over 250k on it &
didn't use a drop of oil.

My Impala has 130k on it & have been following GMs recommendation to
wait until the dash light tells you it is time. I don't pay much
attention to it any more-- but while it was still making me nervous,
it would run 6-8000 miles between changes.

Jim

On Sat, 26 Feb 2011 10:50:04 -0500, Dave Smith
> wrote:

>On 25/02/2011 11:53 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
>>
>> Same with some auto dealer services that are not needed. My dealer
>> recommends fuel injection service every year for $120. That would be
>> $240 for my two cars. I've driven fuel injected cars for at least 25
>> years and have never had an injector problem. That puts me ahead $6000
>> over that time period. If, by chance, I need a $250 repair I'll still be
>> $5750 ahead. Better in my pocket than a car dealer.
>
>A few years ago I was getting a quick oil change when one of the guys
>came out and told me my car was due for injector treatment. I asked for
>an explanation and he said that they should have the treatment every
>months or miles. He had no idea if or when I had ever had it done. I
>asked how much it was.... $32.95. I asked if he thought I was going to
>pay $32.95 for a bottle of isopropyll alcohol. The woman sitting next to
>me said "Good for you. The got me".
>
>>
>> I also change oil at 7500 miles, not the 3000 often wrongly touted as
>> proper interval.
>
>That could be risky. I often go over the time periods but I do get my
>oil changed every 3,000 miles. Oil changes are one way to extend engine
>life and ignoring them can get expensive.

Lubrication is the least expensive way to defer the most expensive
repairs... I change engine oil and filter every 3,000 miles or every 6
months, other fluids by schedual... I bought my Landcruiser new in
1990, never needed anything more than normal wear and tear replacement
of tires, battery, plugs, belts, wipers, and such... I'm due for a new
exhaust muffler soon.

On Sat, 26 Feb 2011 12:34:27 -0500, Jim Elbrecht >
wrote:

>Dave Smith > wrote:
>
>>On 25/02/2011 11:53 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>-snip-
>>
>>>
>>> I also change oil at 7500 miles, not the 3000 often wrongly touted as
>>> proper interval.
>>
>>That could be risky. I often go over the time periods but I do get my
>>oil changed every 3,000 miles. Oil changes are one way to extend engine
>>life and ignoring them can get expensive.
>
>I don't know how often it got changed in the first 100k-- but my
>daughter just traded in her perfectly running 1997 Grand Am that she
>changed when the dash light told her to. It had over 250k on it &
>didn't use a drop of oil.
>
>My Impala has 130k on it & have been following GMs recommendation to
>wait until the dash light tells you it is time. I don't pay much
>attention to it any more-- but while it was still making me nervous,
>it would run 6-8000 miles between changes.
>
>Jim

That dash light comes on when oil pressure is too low, that means
you've been running with low oil for a long time before that idiot
light came on. Don't you ever check your oil level? That light on
your dash is not for indicating when to change oil, least not on
vehicles from that era... that's strictly a low pressure warning lamp.
Some newer vehicles do warn when it's time for general service. But
if you're running with low engine oil pressure you're doing far more
engine damage than from extending the time between oil changes.

"Dave Smith" > wrote
>>
>> I also change oil at 7500 miles, not the 3000 often wrongly touted as
>> proper interval.
>
> That could be risky. I often go over the time periods but I do get my oil
> changed every 3,000 miles. Oil changes are one way to extend engine life
> and ignoring them can get expensive.
>

Depends on how the car is driven. I've used 7500 for years now and with
200,000 miles on a few, no problems. If you drive 3000 miles a year, yes,
that is a good interval.

On Sat, 26 Feb 2011 20:01:01 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
> wrote:

>
> "Dave Smith" > wrote
> >>
> >> I also change oil at 7500 miles, not the 3000 often wrongly touted as
> >> proper interval.
> >
> > That could be risky. I often go over the time periods but I do get my oil
> > changed every 3,000 miles. Oil changes are one way to extend engine life
> > and ignoring them can get expensive.
> >
>
> Depends on how the car is driven. I've used 7500 for years now and with
> 200,000 miles on a few, no problems. If you drive 3000 miles a year, yes,
> that is a good interval.

New cars use synthetic oil, so they're only changed once a year or
12,000 miles.

--

Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held its ground.

"sf" > wrote in message
>> >
>>
>> Depends on how the car is driven. I've used 7500 for years now and with
>> 200,000 miles on a few, no problems. If you drive 3000 miles a year,
>> yes,
>> that is a good interval.
>
> New cars use synthetic oil, so they're only changed once a year or
> 12,000 miles.
>

Some use synthetic, but not all. Yes, it does increase the interval and is
actually a better lubricating oil. Many years ago we did some testing on
very small engines and the synthetics worked wonders. The only advantage
for most cars is the extended change interval. Very few cars today have oil
related problems like they did many years ago and 150,000 to 200,000 is
expected with normal oil. About that time, the rest of the car is getting
tired.