I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
Well it looks like I need an electrician. The current power looks
hardwired. There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
effect since 2000. The free installation that comes from the vendor is
just to put it in place and plug it in. Shit. Oh well.

On Oct 14, 7:18*pm, Cheryl > wrote:
> I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
> drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
> backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
> it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
> * Well it looks like I need an electrician. *The current power looks
> hardwired. *There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
> and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
> effect since 2000. *The free installation that comes from the vendor is
> just to put it in place and plug it in. *Shit. *Oh well.

On Oct 14, 7:18*pm, Cheryl > wrote:
> I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
> drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
> backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
> it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
> * Well it looks like I need an electrician. *The current power looks
> hardwired. *There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
> and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
> effect since 2000. *The free installation that comes from the vendor is
> just to put it in place and plug it in. *Shit. *Oh well.

Go get yourself some smelling salts.

Googling around it looks like the new code requires a four prong plug
and 6 ga. wire. Your electrician may have to pull new cable as well as
installing a socket. Hopefully you have sufficient amperage coming
into the house to run everything.

I also see nowadays microwaves and dishwashers need their own 15 amp
circuits. Oh well.

"Cheryl" > wrote in message
...
>I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage drawer
>and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the backboard/splashboard
>shelf - which my new range will not have because it's curved - and pulled
>it out a bit to see if I could easily move it. Well it looks like I need an
>electrician. The current power looks hardwired. There is a thick wire
>coming out of the wall (no receptacle) and the new one comes with some new
>code power cord that's been in effect since 2000. The free installation
>that comes from the vendor is just to put it in place and plug it in.
>Shit. Oh well.

Well. Yeah. Worse than that. Get an electrician that has a brain in his
head. The outlet for our stove stuck so far out from the wall that, of
course, the stove would not/could not be pushed back flat to the wall once
the stove was plugged in.
The solution was to put the outlet in the wall at the back of the
cabinet adjacent to the stove. The bottom drawer in that cabinet houses big
stock pots and there was no problem having the outlet in it. It may be that
the outlet was in the 'kick-space' and didn't affect the cabinet at all.
The 'free installation guy' didn't see a problem with the stove set out
from the wall about 4" but I found it quite offensive. Translation: think
hissy fit! Polly

"Cheryl" > wrote in message
...
>I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage drawer
>and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the backboard/splashboard
>shelf - which my new range will not have because it's curved - and pulled
>it out a bit to see if I could easily move it. Well it looks like I need an
>electrician. The current power looks hardwired. There is a thick wire
>coming out of the wall (no receptacle) and the new one comes with some new
>code power cord that's been in effect since 2000. The free installation
>that comes from the vendor is just to put it in place and plug it in.
>Shit. Oh well.

It may not be so bad. If the stove comes with a 4 connector plug, then you
merely need a qualified person to replace it with a three prong plug. Older
structures do not need to meet the newer standard. However if the stove
comes with 4 unterminated wires, well that's a whole new ball game. But you
should be able to get by without having to have a whole new set of wires
run. But yeah, time to call sparky.

Paul

On 10/14/2011 11:08 PM, Paul M. Cook wrote:

> It may not be so bad. If the stove comes with a 4 connector plug, then you
> merely need a qualified person to replace it with a three prong plug. Older
> structures do not need to meet the newer standard. However if the stove
> comes with 4 unterminated wires, well that's a whole new ball game. But you
> should be able to get by without having to have a whole new set of wires
> run. But yeah, time to call sparky.

One of my brother's best friends is an electrician and I called him for
his phone number. He's been out of work so I know he'll do it for me.
He's been an electrician for ages. The only thing is that I might not
have a working stove for a few days if he can't do it tomorrow.

On 10/14/2011 10:37 PM, Polly Esther wrote:

> Well. Yeah. Worse than that. Get an electrician that has a brain in
> his head. The outlet for our stove stuck so far out from the wall that,
> of course, the stove would not/could not be pushed back flat to the wall
> once the stove was plugged in.
> The solution was to put the outlet in the wall at the back of the
> cabinet adjacent to the stove. The bottom drawer in that cabinet houses
> big stock pots and there was no problem having the outlet in it. It may
> be that the outlet was in the 'kick-space' and didn't affect the cabinet
> at all.
> The 'free installation guy' didn't see a problem with the stove set
> out from the wall about 4" but I found it quite offensive. Translation:
> think hissy fit!

Good tip! Thanks!

On 10/14/2011 10:33 PM, spamtrap1888 wrote:
> Go get yourself some smelling salts.
>
> Googling around it looks like the new code requires a four prong plug
> and 6 ga. wire.

Yes, four prong. Similar to a dryer receptacle but shaped a little
differently.

Your electrician may have to pull new cable as well as
> installing a socket. Hopefully you have sufficient amperage coming
> into the house to run everything.
>
That shouldn't be a problem. All other new appliances I've bought
haven't needed any additional amperage, including a much larger heat
pump than I used to have. New washer and dryer were fine as is.

> I also see nowadays microwaves and dishwashers need their own 15 amp
> circuits. Oh well.

It's never easy, is it.

"Cheryl" > wrote in message
...
> On 10/14/2011 11:08 PM, Paul M. Cook wrote:
>
>> It may not be so bad. If the stove comes with a 4 connector plug, then
>> you
>> merely need a qualified person to replace it with a three prong plug.
>> Older
>> structures do not need to meet the newer standard. However if the stove
>> comes with 4 unterminated wires, well that's a whole new ball game. But
>> you
>> should be able to get by without having to have a whole new set of wires
>> run. But yeah, time to call sparky.
>
> One of my brother's best friends is an electrician and I called him for
> his phone number. He's been out of work so I know he'll do it for me.
> He's been an electrician for ages. The only thing is that I might not
> have a working stove for a few days if he can't do it tomorrow.

well, you can use it for thawing things out until then.

"Cheryl" <>
> One of my brother's best friends is an electrician and I called him for
> his phone number. He's been out of work so I know he'll do it for me.
> He's been an electrician for ages. The only thing is that I might not
> have a working stove for a few days if he can't do it tomorrow.
>

If your new stove's bottom is simply a storage drawer, it may be that it is
open to the back and the size of the plug and location of the outlet won't
give you any grief at all. Meanwhile, if you must do without a stove for a
few days it's probably time for you to enjoy your electric skillet,
microwave, toaster oven and crock pot. We survived 6 months with no stove
after a fire. It can be done. You can, of course, ignore that and eat out.
I won't tell. Polly

On 10/14/2011 11:56 PM, Polly Esther wrote:
>
> If your new stove's bottom is simply a storage drawer, it may be that it
> is open to the back and the size of the plug and location of the outlet
> won't give you any grief at all. Meanwhile, if you must do without a
> stove for a few days it's probably time for you to enjoy your electric
> skillet, microwave, toaster oven and crock pot. We survived 6 months
> with no stove after a fire. It can be done. You can, of course, ignore
> that and eat out. I won't tell.

It is a storage drawer. I just left a message for my brother's friend.

I can get by without a stove. I have a micro and a toaster oven. I
can't use my grill because it's down on the grass while I get my deck
sealed. Too much rain and the grill has been down there for weeks.

On Fri, 14 Oct 2011 22:18:37 -0400, Cheryl >
wrote:

>I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
>drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
>backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
>it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
> Well it looks like I need an electrician. The current power looks
>hardwired. There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
>and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
>effect since 2000. The free installation that comes from the vendor is
>just to put it in place and plug it in. Shit. Oh well.


The right handy person can disconnect the old and hook the wires to
the new in ten minutes or less. Having the plug is better though.

On 10/15/2011 12:34 AM, Cheryl wrote:
> On 10/14/2011 11:56 PM, Polly Esther wrote:
>>
>> If your new stove's bottom is simply a storage drawer, it may be that it
>> is open to the back and the size of the plug and location of the outlet
>> won't give you any grief at all. Meanwhile, if you must do without a
>> stove for a few days it's probably time for you to enjoy your electric
>> skillet, microwave, toaster oven and crock pot. We survived 6 months
>> with no stove after a fire. It can be done. You can, of course, ignore
>> that and eat out. I won't tell.
>
> It is a storage drawer. I just left a message for my brother's friend.
>
> I can get by without a stove. I have a micro and a toaster oven. I can't
> use my grill because it's down on the grass while I get my deck sealed.
> Too much rain and the grill has been down there for weeks.
>
Oh, and I wasn't surprised by all of the cat toys I see under the stove.
LOL

"Cheryl" wrote:
>
>I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage drawer
>and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the backboard/splashboard
>shelf - which my new range will not have because it's curved - and pulled
>it out a bit to see if I could easily move it. Well it looks like I need an
>electrician. The current power looks hardwired. There is a thick wire
>coming out of the wall (no receptacle) and the new one comes with some new
>code power cord that's been in effect since 2000. The free installation
>that comes from the vendor is just to put it in place and plug it in.
>Shit. Oh well.

The store where you purchased should have asked if your old stove is a
plug-in or hardwired... if plug-in they would have sold you the cable
(about $30, theyh no longer ship with any cable). But not all sales
people have much in the smarts department so probably wouldn't
remember to ask, mine didn't but I got lucky and the delivery guys had
new plug-in cables on the truck, saved me a trip to the store... they
didn't even charge me... should be simpler for you, you have cleavage!
LOL

Last I bought a new electric stove was about 5 years ago, from Lowe's,
they no longer ship with any connection cable... instructions supplied
explained which connection cable to obtain for a plug-in and also how
to make the hardwired connection (there'll be a diagrame on the back
of the stove too). Even the plug-in cable needs to be hardwired to
the back of the stove... six of one half dozen the other, same-same.
If the present stove is hardwired there would be no problem connecting
to the new stove without buying anything... if you can read and aren't
color blind no electrician would be needed, just remember to turn off
the power at your panel, and you'd need a decent screwdriver and
probably an 8" crecent wrench... there'll be a clamp that secures the
wire to the stove with nuts and bolts that needs to be reattached too.
Buying a new electric clothes dryer requires the same exercise, they
don't ship with plug-in cables either. There really should be no
reason that the delivery guy wouldn't remove the old stove, take it
away, and rewire the new stove... don't forget to tip at least $20, or
whatever you usually give delivery guys! hehe

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 00:43:16 -0400, Ed Pawlowski > wrote:

>On Fri, 14 Oct 2011 22:18:37 -0400, Cheryl >
>wrote:
>
>>I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
>>drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
>>backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
>>it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
>> Well it looks like I need an electrician. The current power looks
>>hardwired. There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
>>and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
>>effect since 2000. The free installation that comes from the vendor is
>>just to put it in place and plug it in. Shit. Oh well.
>
>
>The right handy person can disconnect the old and hook the wires to
>the new in ten minutes or less. Having the plug is better though.

'Zactly. No electrician is needed, would be a big waste of money.
Most average folks can make the connection themselves... but I
strongly suggest Cheryl have someone do it for her, from reading her
posts I seriously doubt she has the common sense to know that she
needs to put on her socks before putting on her shoes... Cheryl
epitomizes airhead.

Having the plug is not really better, just more convenient (how many
times does one unplug a stove), hardwired is safer.

On Oct 14, 10:18*pm, Cheryl > wrote:
> I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
> drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
> backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
> it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
> * Well it looks like I need an electrician. *The current power looks
> hardwired. *There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
> and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
> effect



whaaaat? No flat backboard? I'd die without mine. Homebase for
salt, pepper, cinnamon, ( all in shakers), seaweed flakes, a 3 minute
egg timer....and a minute minder. I bet you'll miss that feature.

On Oct 14, 7:18*pm, Cheryl > wrote:
> I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
> drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
> backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
> it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
> * Well it looks like I need an electrician. *The current power looks
> hardwired. *There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
> and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
> effect since 2000. *The free installation that comes from the vendor is
> just to put it in place and plug it in. *Shit. *Oh well.

How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. Why can't
it be used to hardwire the new stove?
Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
use it for the new one.
Problem solved.

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 08:32:42 -0700 (PDT), Kalmia
> wrote:

> On Oct 14, 10:18*pm, Cheryl > wrote:
> > I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
> > drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
> > backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
> > it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
> > * Well it looks like I need an electrician. *The current power looks
> > hardwired. *There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
> > and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
> > effect
>
>
>
> whaaaat? No flat backboard? I'd die without mine. Homebase for
> salt, pepper, cinnamon, ( all in shakers), seaweed flakes, a 3 minute
> egg timer....and a minute minder. I bet you'll miss that feature.

It's nothing a shelf or a nice piece of crown molding can't take care
of.

--
All you need is love. But a little chocolate now and then doesn't hurt.

"Cheryl" > wrote in message
...
>I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage drawer
>and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the backboard/splashboard
>shelf - which my new range will not have because it's curved - and pulled
>it out a bit to see if I could easily move it. Well it looks like I need an
>electrician. The current power looks hardwired. There is a thick wire
>coming out of the wall (no receptacle) and the new one comes with some new
>code power cord that's been in effect since 2000. The free installation
>that comes from the vendor is just to put it in place and plug it in.
>Shit. Oh well.

Yes, I had to do the same thing. The first electrician hardwired my old one,
then when the new stove came, I had to have another electrician put in a
receptacle for it. At least you know it and don't get a surprise when the
new stove is installed.

Cheri

On Oct 15, 9:03*am, ImStillMags > wrote:
> On Oct 14, 7:18*pm, Cheryl > wrote:
>
> > I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
> > drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
> > backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
> > it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
> > * Well it looks like I need an electrician. *The current power looks
> > hardwired. *There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
> > and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
> > effect since 2000. *The free installation that comes from the vendor is
> > just to put it in place and plug it in. *Shit. *Oh well.
>
> How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. * *Why can't
> it be used to hardwire the new stove?
> Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
> use it for the new one.
> Problem solved.

Right, because there is no safety reason behind the change in code --
it was just done randomly to keep electricians employed.

On Oct 14, 8:17*pm, Cheryl > wrote:
> On 10/14/2011 11:08 PM, Paul M. Cook wrote:
>
> > It may not be so bad. *If the stove comes with a 4 connector plug, then you
> > merely need a qualified person to replace it with a three prong plug. *Older
> > structures do not need to meet the newer standard. *However if the stove
> > comes with 4 unterminated wires, well that's a whole new ball game. *But you
> > should be able to get by without having to have a whole new set of wires
> > run. *But yeah, time to call sparky.
>
> One of my brother's best friends is an electrician and I called him for
> his phone number. *He's been out of work so I know he'll do it for me.
> He's been an electrician for ages. *The only thing is that I might not
> have a working stove for a few days if he can't do it tomorrow.

Well...there's always McDonalds. :-)

Paul M. Cook > wrote:

>It may not be so bad. If the stove comes with a 4 connector plug, then you
>merely need a qualified person to replace it with a three prong plug.

No, this is not a given. You need to check the amperage of the stove,
and the amperage of the circuit, and confirm that the circuit is
sufficient. If the circuit is not sufficient, then you also need
to confirm whether the service entrance is sufficient to support the
necessary new circuit.

Ideally you do this and price out any necessary electrical work before
making an electric stove vs. gas stove purchase decision.

I would also double-check a few things about the circuit that's there,
such as whether the wire gauge is sufficient to support the breaker
size, whether there's a box at the kitchen end, whether anyone has
done something dangerous like tapping off the circuit, or routing it
to another area such as an outbuilding or garage. Sometimes people
figure an unused 220V kitchen circuit is the ideal starting point
for running power out to a second building on the property.

Steve

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 08:32:42 -0700 (PDT), Kalmia
> wrote:

>On Oct 14, 10:18*pm, Cheryl > wrote:
>> I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
>> drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
>> backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
>> it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
>> * Well it looks like I need an electrician. *The current power looks
>> hardwired. *There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
>> and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
>> effect
>
>
>
>whaaaat? No flat backboard? I'd die without mine. Homebase for
>salt, pepper, cinnamon, ( all in shakers), seaweed flakes, a 3 minute
>egg timer....and a minute minder. I bet you'll miss that feature.

My stove has a narrow flat area all along the top of the back
splash... but I never put anything there, it would just collect
schmutz. And that's certainly not the place to store spices. They
probably now design stoves with the curved backsplash for safety
reasons, that's about the least safe place in the kitchen to store
anything flammable In olden times the shelf above the kitchen stove
was in lieu of a warming drawer... but now we have central heating.

ImStillMags wrote:
>Cheryl wrote:
>> I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
>> drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
>> backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
>> it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
>> * Well it looks like I need an electrician. *The current power looks
>> hardwired. *There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
>> and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
>> effect since 2000. *The free installation that comes from the vendor is
>> just to put it in place and plug it in. *Shit. *Oh well.
>
>How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. Why can't
>it be used to hardwire the new stove?
>Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
>use it for the new one.
>Problem solved.

Precisely.

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 09:31:50 -0700 (PDT), spamtrap1888
> wrote:

>On Oct 15, 9:03*am, ImStillMags > wrote:
>> On Oct 14, 7:18*pm, Cheryl > wrote:
>>
>> > I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
>> > drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
>> > backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
>> > it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
>> > * Well it looks like I need an electrician. *The current power looks
>> > hardwired. *There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
>> > and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
>> > effect since 2000. *The free installation that comes from the vendor is
>> > just to put it in place and plug it in. *Shit. *Oh well.
>>
>> How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. * *Why can't
>> it be used to hardwire the new stove?
>> Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
>> use it for the new one.
>> Problem solved.
>
>Right, because there is no safety reason behind the change in code --
>it was just done randomly to keep electricians employed.

Bullshit. Any mentally disabled person who can wield a screwdriver
can reattach a new stove, even the likes of you.

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 09:28:07 -0700, "Cheri" >
wrote:

>"Cheryl" > wrote in message
...
>>I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage drawer
>>and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the backboard/splashboard
>>shelf - which my new range will not have because it's curved - and pulled
>>it out a bit to see if I could easily move it. Well it looks like I need an
>>electrician. The current power looks hardwired. There is a thick wire
>>coming out of the wall (no receptacle) and the new one comes with some new
>>code power cord that's been in effect since 2000. The free installation
>>that comes from the vendor is just to put it in place and plug it in.
>>Shit. Oh well.
>
>Yes, I had to do the same thing. The first electrician hardwired my old one,
>then when the new stove came, I had to have another electrician put in a
>receptacle for it. At least you know it and don't get a surprise when the
>new stove is installed.

Now you're telling fibs. If your stove came with the plug-in cable
attached it's not a new stove.

On 15/10/2011 12:03 PM, ImStillMags wrote:
> On Oct 14, 7:18 pm, > wrote:
>> I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
>> drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
>> backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
>> it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
>> Well it looks like I need an electrician. The current power looks
>> hardwired. There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
>> and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
>> effect since 2000. The free installation that comes from the vendor is
>> just to put it in place and plug it in. Shit. Oh well.
>
> How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. Why can't
> it be used to hardwire the new stove?
> Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
> use it for the new one.
> Problem solved.


Stoves used to come with a wiring block which you attached the 220 wires
in the cable that came out of the floor or wall. Now stoves come with
cables and 220 plugs and you simply plug it into the receptacle behind
the stove. If the old stove was hardwired, you can easily install the
proper receptacle.

On 10/15/2011 3:04 PM, Steve Pope wrote:

> No, this is not a given. You need to check the amperage of the stove,
> and the amperage of the circuit, and confirm that the circuit is
> sufficient. If the circuit is not sufficient, then you also need
> to confirm whether the service entrance is sufficient to support the
> necessary new circuit.
>
> Ideally you do this and price out any necessary electrical work before
> making an electric stove vs. gas stove purchase decision.

Yeah, that's why I was asking about the induction stove power
requirements and it seemed like it was a no brainer with this one that
doesn't have the induction stovetop.
>
> I would also double-check a few things about the circuit that's there,
> such as whether the wire gauge is sufficient to support the breaker
> size, whether there's a box at the kitchen end, whether anyone has
> done something dangerous like tapping off the circuit, or routing it
> to another area such as an outbuilding or garage. Sometimes people
> figure an unused 220V kitchen circuit is the ideal starting point
> for running power out to a second building on the property.

Well, now that I have to get an electrician, he'll check all that. Thanks.

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 19:04:23 +0000 (UTC),
(Steve Pope) wrote:

>Paul M. Cook > wrote:
>
>>It may not be so bad. If the stove comes with a 4 connector plug, then you
>>merely need a qualified person to replace it with a three prong plug.
>
>No, this is not a given. You need to check the amperage of the stove,
>and the amperage of the circuit, and confirm that the circuit is
>sufficient.
<nonsense snipped>

You're making a big to do unnecessarilly. If one is replacing a
residential electric stove with another residential electric stove the
amperage rating will not be an issue. And to be doubly sure all one
need do is check the amperage tag on the old stove and compare it to
the amperage tag on the new stove (don't need any electrician to read
for most people). Common sense says that no stove manufacturer is
going to make residential stoves that require the home owner to pay an
electrician to rewire their house, they'd go out of business real
fast. When folks need more cooking power at home than is available
with a residential electric stove they convert to gas rather than
convert to commercial electric stoves... or they buy a second
residential electric stove and then obviously they need to add a
circuit, and if they actually use it pay horrendous electric bills. I
do a lot of heavy duty cooking, more than most do at home, to date
I've never used all four burners at once, I rarely use more than two
burners at once, most times one burner and the oven surfices. And
about the only time I use the largest burner full out is to bring a
large quantity of water to the boil quickly or cook pasta... there is
nothing else that needs a full rolling boil throughout its cooking.
And my gas stove produces enough heat to sear meat just fine at mid
range settings. No one should ever consider paying an electrician to
run a new line for an electric cookstove at home, before anyone does
that convert to gas, costs far less.

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 16:22:16 -0400, Dave Smith
> wrote:

>On 15/10/2011 12:03 PM, ImStillMags wrote:
>> On Oct 14, 7:18 pm, > wrote:
>>> I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
>>> drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
>>> backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
>>> it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
>>> Well it looks like I need an electrician. The current power looks
>>> hardwired. There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
>>> and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
>>> effect since 2000. The free installation that comes from the vendor is
>>> just to put it in place and plug it in. Shit. Oh well.
>>
>> How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. Why can't
>> it be used to hardwire the new stove?
>> Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
>> use it for the new one.
>> Problem solved.
>
>
>Stoves used to come with a wiring block which you attached the 220 wires
>in the cable that came out of the floor or wall.

They still do.

>Now stoves come with cables and 220 plugs.

No they do not. You need to buy the cable separately and connect it
to the stove yourself, it connects the same as the hard wire.

You do not need an electrician to swap out a stove... any electrician
you call that takes your money is ripping you off. Any appliance
store where you bought the new stove will gladly remove the old stove
and reconnect the new stove as part of doing business, you'll just
have to buy the cable if it's a plug in... most small privately owned
appliance stores figure the cable into the price. I don't know why
people are making a whole federal case out of this. When the Lowe's
drivers delivered my stove they even had their own tool kit, I didn't
have to ask, they just did the disconnect and reconnect like it was
part of their breathing, it was a given. They took all the
packing/shipping materials out of the new stove, put it in place and
leveled it, and took all the trash with them. They even turned it on,
tested all the functions, took the owners manual from the storage
drawer, handed it to me and reminded me to register it with GE, even
set the clock. I'd have no reservations buying appliances from
Lowe's.

On 15/10/2011 9:42 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 16:22:16 -0400, Dave Smith
> > wrote:
>
>> On 15/10/2011 12:03 PM, ImStillMags wrote:
>>> On Oct 14, 7:18 pm, > wrote:
>>>> I am getting my new range tomorrow and was cleaning out the storage
>>>> drawer and removing all the stuff I keep on top of the
>>>> backboard/splashboard shelf - which my new range will not have because
>>>> it's curved - and pulled it out a bit to see if I could easily move it.
>>>> Well it looks like I need an electrician. The current power looks
>>>> hardwired. There is a thick wire coming out of the wall (no receptacle)
>>>> and the new one comes with some new code power cord that's been in
>>>> effect since 2000. The free installation that comes from the vendor is
>>>> just to put it in place and plug it in. Shit. Oh well.
>>>
>>> How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. Why can't
>>> it be used to hardwire the new stove?
>>> Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
>>> use it for the new one.
>>> Problem solved.
>>
>>
>> Stoves used to come with a wiring block which you attached the 220 wires
>> in the cable that came out of the floor or wall.
>
> They still do.
>
>> Now stoves come with cables and 220 plugs.
>
> No they do not. You need to buy the cable separately and connect it
> to the stove yourself, it connects the same as the hard wire.
>

I bought a new one about two years ago. It came with the cord attached.

On 10/15/2011 9:42 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:

> When the Lowe's
> drivers delivered my stove they even had their own tool kit, I didn't
> have to ask, they just did the disconnect and reconnect like it was
> part of their breathing, it was a given.

When it comes to anything that has to do with electricity, I don't take
chances. If the drivers didn't feel they could hardwire it, and they
didn't, why should I take that chance and do something I'm not
comfortable doing? I'll gladly pay to have something serious done right
and done safely.

[room for Shelly's reply below, though I probably won't read it]
>
>
--->

On 10/15/2011 12:03 PM, ImStillMags wrote:

> How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. Why can't
> it be used to hardwire the new stove?
> Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
> use it for the new one.
> Problem solved.

The old wire coming out of the wall is split into three; two 120v and
one ground. The oven requires 4 wires. So something had to go between,
and a receptacle is the best choice. I wouldn't have known how to make
those two wires and the ground wire into the receptacle even if I had
pictures from the web, which I did. I just don't mess with that stuff.

So the electrician has been here, and the whole thing is working fine.
One problem is that while I watched where he put the receptacle to make
sure the range would be able to slide up against the wall, I missed one
thing. The cord that goes from the receptacle to the stove is too close
to the cabinet so the stove STILL doesn't slide all the way in, but I
can fix that part myself. Just need to move the receptacle now that
it's wired. Yes, I will turn off the circuit breaker.

On Oct 16, 10:47*am, Cheryl > wrote:
> On 10/15/2011 12:03 PM, ImStillMags wrote:
>
> > How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. * *Why can't
> > it be used to hardwire the new stove?
> > Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
> > use it for the new one.
> > Problem solved.
>
> The old wire coming out of the wall is split into three; two 120v and
> one ground. *The oven requires 4 wires. *So something had to go between,
> and a receptacle is the best choice. *I wouldn't have known how to make
> those two wires and the ground wire into the receptacle even if I had
> pictures from the web, which I did. *I just don't mess with that stuff.
>
> So the electrician has been here, and the whole thing is working fine.
> One problem is that while I watched where he put the receptacle to make
> sure the range would be able to slide up against the wall, I missed one
> thing. *The cord that goes from the receptacle to the stove is too close
> to the cabinet so the stove STILL doesn't slide all the way in, but I
> can fix that part myself. *Just need to move the receptacle now that
> it's wired. *Yes, I will turn off the circuit breaker.

Yay...good for you, I'm glad you got it solved without too much
hassle !!

On Oct 16, 10:47*am, Cheryl > wrote:
> On 10/15/2011 12:03 PM, ImStillMags wrote:
>
> > How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. * *Why can't
> > it be used to hardwire the new stove?
> > Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
> > use it for the new one.
> > Problem solved.
>
> The old wire coming out of the wall is split into three; two 120v and
> one ground. *The oven requires 4 wires. *So something had to go between,
> and a receptacle is the best choice. *I wouldn't have known how to make
> those two wires and the ground wire into the receptacle even if I had
> pictures from the web, which I did. *I just don't mess with that stuff.

Plus the proper installation will make it easier to sell the house
when the time comes. The guy we bought our house from had jury rigged
another 220 line to run a dryer: He couldn't find another 220 breaker
to fit the panel, so he took off the protective sheet metal plate, ran
some romex through the attic, letting a circuit breaker dangle inside
the breaker box and running the other end down the laundry room wall
to a surface mount receptacle.

I make him rip everything out and make a tee into the gas line serving
the water heater.

>
> So the electrician has been here, and the whole thing is working fine.
> One problem is that while I watched where he put the receptacle to make
> sure the range would be able to slide up against the wall, I missed one
> thing. *The cord that goes from the receptacle to the stove is too close
> to the cabinet so the stove STILL doesn't slide all the way in, but I
> can fix that part myself. *Just need to move the receptacle now that
> it's wired. *Yes, I will turn off the circuit breaker.

Wood butchery is easier than electrical work. Make sure you don't
strain the wire connections in the process.

On Sun, 16 Oct 2011 13:47:15 -0400, Cheryl >
wrote:

>On 10/15/2011 12:03 PM, ImStillMags wrote:
>
>> How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. Why can't
>> it be used to hardwire the new stove?
>> Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
>> use it for the new one.
>> Problem solved.
>
>The old wire coming out of the wall is split into three; two 120v and
>one ground. The oven requires 4 wires.

So where did that 4th wire come from? Magic?

Lou

On 10/16/2011 2:19 PM, Lou Decruss wrote:
> On Sun, 16 Oct 2011 13:47:15 -0400, >
> wrote:
>
>> On 10/15/2011 12:03 PM, ImStillMags wrote:
>>
>>> How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. Why can't
>>> it be used to hardwire the new stove?
>>> Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
>>> use it for the new one.
>>> Problem solved.
>>
>> The old wire coming out of the wall is split into three; two 120v and
>> one ground. The oven requires 4 wires.
>
>
I honestly have no idea. I guess the receptacle box converts it.

On Sun, 16 Oct 2011 14:50:25 -0400, Cheryl >
wrote:

> On 10/16/2011 2:19 PM, Lou Decruss wrote:
> > On Sun, 16 Oct 2011 13:47:15 -0400, >
> > wrote:
> >
> >> On 10/15/2011 12:03 PM, ImStillMags wrote:
> >>
> >>> How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. Why can't
> >>> it be used to hardwire the new stove?
> >>> Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
> >>> use it for the new one.
> >>> Problem solved.
> >>
> >> The old wire coming out of the wall is split into three; two 120v and
> >> one ground. The oven requires 4 wires.
> >
> >
> I honestly have no idea. I guess the receptacle box converts it.

Just don't hurt your back anymore than it already is.

--
All you need is love. But a little chocolate now and then doesn't hurt.

On Oct 16, 11:19*am, Lou Decruss > wrote:
> On Sun, 16 Oct 2011 13:47:15 -0400, Cheryl >
> wrote:
>
> >On 10/15/2011 12:03 PM, ImStillMags wrote:
>
> >> How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. * *Why can't
> >> it be used to hardwire the new stove?
> >> Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
> >> use it for the new one.
> >> Problem solved.
>
> >The old wire coming out of the wall is split into three; two 120v and
> >one ground. *The oven requires 4 wires.
>
> So where did that 4th wire come from? *Magic?

Ground.

Coming from your breaker box should be four wires: Neutral (AKA the
grounDED conductor), Ground (AKA the GrounDING conductor), and two 120
VAC hot leads (split phase)

In the olden days, ranges, dryers, etc. were supplied with the two
120VAC hot leads (which produced 240VAC between them) and the neutral,
which was connected to the appliance frame to serve as a pseudo-
ground. But in the words of Click and Clack that was Bo-o-o-o-gus,
because when the load is imbalanced you can get current on the
neutral, raising the frame potential above ground. This was a real
problem in offices when personal computers with their primitive switch
mode power supplies became popular, because neutral wires had never
been sized to carry current and fires started as a result.

So nowadays, the code mandates they run ground to the frame.

On Oct 16, 7:47*am, Cheryl > wrote:
> On 10/15/2011 12:03 PM, ImStillMags wrote:
>
> > How old is the hardwire wire that comes out of the wall. * *Why can't
> > it be used to hardwire the new stove?
> > Seems to me you could unhook the old stove from the hard wire and then
> > use it for the new one.
> > Problem solved.
>
> The old wire coming out of the wall is split into three; two 120v and
> one ground. *The oven requires 4 wires. *So something had to go between,
> and a receptacle is the best choice. *I wouldn't have known how to make
> those two wires and the ground wire into the receptacle even if I had
> pictures from the web, which I did. *I just don't mess with that stuff.
>
> So the electrician has been here, and the whole thing is working fine.
> One problem is that while I watched where he put the receptacle to make
> sure the range would be able to slide up against the wall, I missed one
> thing. *The cord that goes from the receptacle to the stove is too close
> to the cabinet so the stove STILL doesn't slide all the way in, but I
> can fix that part myself. *Just need to move the receptacle now that
> it's wired. *Yes, I will turn off the circuit breaker.

Pretty exciting stuff - that induction range. I'm gonna cook some
pulled pork but it seems that I dumped my cast aluminum dutch oven
when I purged my kitchen of non-magnetic pots. That was a smart move.
Too bad - I've used that since I was a kid. Time marches on.

The fourth wire is the wire that your wiring uses for the 120V
appliances. It is used in conjunction with one of the 120V lines to
supply power for the control systems and the oven light.