[Tim west]

An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.

I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.

What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?

[Ed Pawlowski]

On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 11:32:29 -0000, "Tim west"
> wrote:

>An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>
>I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
>I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
>the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>
>What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
>did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
>

Nail varnish may work, but it has little solids and could take many
coats, depending on the size of the crack. I'd make epoxy my first
choice.

[tiredofspam]

On 12/2/2012 8:17 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 11:32:29 -0000, "Tim west"
> > wrote:
>
>> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>>
>> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
>> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
>> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>>
>> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
>> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
>>
>
> Nail varnish may work, but it has little solids and could take many
> coats, depending on the size of the crack. I'd make epoxy my first
> choice.
>
Yep, agreed, epoxy is the best gap filler for this

[ImStillMags]

On Sunday, December 2, 2012 3:32:29 AM UTC-8, Tim west remoove wrote:
> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>
>
>
> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
>
> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
>
> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>
>
>
> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
>
> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying




Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it? If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it sit for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.

Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for cutting boards.
>
> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?

[Brooklyn1]

ImStillMags wrote:
>Tim west remoove wrote:
>>
>> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
>> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
>> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
>> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>
>Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
>If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
>in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it sit
>for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
>that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
>Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for
>cutting boards.

Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
the next section:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288

[Ed Pawlowski]

On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 09:40:19 -0800 (PST), ImStillMags
> wrote:

>Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for cutting boards.
>>

Cutting board oil is mineral oil. Usually about $1 or so from CVS,
but $9 from a gourmet kitchen place.

[isw]

In article >,
tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:

> On 12/2/2012 8:17 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> > On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 11:32:29 -0000, "Tim west"
> > > wrote:
> >
> >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
> >> seam.
> >>
> >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some
> >> and
> >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most
> >> of
> >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> >>
> >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
> >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
> >> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
> >>
> >
> > Nail varnish may work, but it has little solids and could take many
> > coats, depending on the size of the crack. I'd make epoxy my first
> > choice.
> >
> Yep, agreed, epoxy is the best gap filler for this

If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
work that into the cracks.

Isaac

[Doug Winterburn]

On 12/02/2012 04:32 AM, Tim west wrote:
> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>
> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>
> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
>
>

I'd run each edge surface over the jointer until flat, then re-glue with
TB3.

--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 2, 12:28*pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
> ImStillMags wrote:
> >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
> >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
> >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
> >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
> >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>
> >Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
> >If not, that's why you have a gap. * I would suggest putting more glue
> >in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it sit
> >for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. * Any excess glue
> >that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
> >Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for
> >cutting boards.
>
> Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
> too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
> splinter the wood before those gaps close. *At this point fill the
> gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
> away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
> glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
> use Gorilla Glue. *If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
> gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
> the next section: *http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288

Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
indirect contact as in cutting boards).

But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
obstructions.

http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...#axzz2E0JwDyZw

[Cheri[_3_]]

"spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
...
On Dec 2, 12:28 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
> ImStillMags wrote:
> >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
> >> seam.
> >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some
> >> and
> >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on
> >> most of
> >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this?
> >> I
> >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>
> >Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
> >If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
> >in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it
> >sit
> >for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
> >that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
> >Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for
> >cutting boards.
>
> Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
> too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
> splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
> gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
> away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
> glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
> use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
> gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
> the next section:
> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288

Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
indirect contact as in cutting boards).

But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
obstructions.

http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...#axzz2E0JwDyZw



========

I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
them. Why would you though?

Cheri

[jmcquown[_2_]]

On 12/3/2012 10:52 AM, Cheri wrote:
>> >Tim west remoove wrote:
>>
> But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> obstructions.
>
> ========
>
> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access
> to them. Why would you though?
>
> Cheri

LOL I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
chopping board. And why any glue would be stored where a dog could get
to it.

Jill

[George M. Middius[_2_]]

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

> Cutting board oil is mineral oil. Usually about $1 or so from CVS,

Oh come on. The only thing at CVS under $1 is a candy bar.

I just checked cvs.com and their online price is $4.23.

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 3, 7:52*am, "Cheri" > wrote:
> "spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Dec 2, 12:28 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > ImStillMags wrote:
> > >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> > >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
> > >> seam.
> > >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some
> > >> and
> > >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on
> > >> most of
> > >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> > >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this?
> > >> I
> > >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>
> > >Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
> > >If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
> > >in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it
> > >sit
> > >for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
> > >that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
> > >Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for
> > >cutting boards.
>
> > Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
> > too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
> > splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
> > gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
> > away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
> > glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
> > use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
> > gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
> > the next section:
> >http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288
>
> Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
> indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>
> But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> obstructions.
>
> http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...s_579850.html#...
>
> ========
>
> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
> them. Why would you though?
>

Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
items (and food: the two categories may overlap).

People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
like glue.

Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
emergency surgery?

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 3, 8:48*am, jmcquown > wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 10:52 AM, Cheri wrote:
>
> >> >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> > But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> > filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> > obstructions.
>
> > ========
>
> > I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access
> > to them. Why would you though?
>
> > Cheri
>
> LOL *I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
> chopping board.

The life-threatening feature of Gorilla Glue is that it expands when
exposed to moisture, which dogs and people are full of.

>And why any glue would be stored where a dog could get
> to it.

Vets see several cases each year -- why not ask the owners?

[jmcquown[_2_]]

On 12/3/2012 12:58 PM, spamtrap1888 wrote:
> On Dec 3, 7:52 am, "Cheri" > wrote:
>> "spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
>>
>> ...
>> On Dec 2, 12:28 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> ImStillMags wrote:
>>>> Tim west remoove wrote:
>>
>>>>> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
>>>>> seam.
>>>>> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some
>>>>> and
>>>>> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on
>>>>> most of
>>>>> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>>>>> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this?
>>>>> I
>>>>> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>>
>>>> Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
>>>> If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
>>>> in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it
>>>> sit
>>>> for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
>>>> that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
>>>> Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for
>>>> cutting boards.
>>
>>> Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
>>> too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
>>> splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
>>> gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
>>> away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
>>> glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
>>> use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
>>> gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
>>> the next section:
>>> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288
>>
>> Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
>> indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>>
>> But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
>> filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
>> obstructions.
>>
>> http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...s_579850.html#...
>>
>> ========
>>
>> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
>> them. Why would you though?
>>
>
> Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
> out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
> items (and food: the two categories may overlap).
>
That is the assumption, yes. I store things like glue (except Elmer's
plain white glue for paper which is kept in a kitchen drawer) in the
garage. I have a tube of Gorilla Glue in the garage on a shelf next to
some paint, turpentine, plant food, weed killer. Why would I keep that
stuff where my pet could get at it?

> People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
> like glue.
>
> Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
> emergency surgery?
>
I didn't know it but it's a non-issue for me since I don't let pets get
near toxic stuff. This time of year people love poinsettia plants.
Sure, they're pretty. They're also pretty toxic. Ditto many kinds of
lillies. Hence, none of them in my house.

Responsible pet owners should know all this. The operative word is
"responsible".

Jill

[Cheri[_3_]]

"spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
...
On Dec 3, 7:52 am, "Cheri" > wrote:
> "spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Dec 2, 12:28 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > ImStillMags wrote:
> > >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> > >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
> > >> seam.
> > >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have
> > >> some
> > >> and
> > >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on
> > >> most of
> > >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> > >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for
> > >> this?
> > >> I
> > >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick
> > >> drying
>
> > >Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
> > >If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
> > >in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it
> > >sit
> > >for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
> > >that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
> > >Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made
> > >for
> > >cutting boards.
>
> > Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
> > too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
> > splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
> > gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
> > away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
> > glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
> > use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
> > gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
> > the next section:
> >http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288
>
> Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
> indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>
> But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> obstructions.
>
> http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...s_579850.html#...
>
> ========
>
> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access
> to
> them. Why would you though?
>

Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
items (and food: the two categories may overlap).

People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
like glue.

Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
emergency surgery?
========

That might be true in your case, I don't know. There is nothing hazardous in
my house that is within my dogs range or reach, same with my grandkids. I am
hypervigilant with things that matter. Oh, and I have lots of Gorilla Glue
on the top shelf of my cupboard. YMMV

Cheri

[Dave Smith[_1_]]

On 03/12/2012 11:48 AM, jmcquown wrote:

> LOL I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
> chopping board. And why any glue would be stored where a dog could get
> to it.
>
>
I wonder if you could use that glue to stop a dog from licking its nuts.

[jmcquown[_2_]]

On 12/3/2012 1:39 PM, Dave Smith wrote:
> On 03/12/2012 11:48 AM, jmcquown wrote:
>
>> LOL I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
>> chopping board. And why any glue would be stored where a dog could get
>> to it.
>>
>>
> I wonder if you could use that glue to stop a dog from licking its nuts.
>
There is this thing called neutering...

Jill

[Brooklyn1]

isw wrote:
>
>If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>work that into the cracks.

Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
wood filler:
http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...FedxOgod1w4AIg

[Brooklyn1]

spamtrap1888 wrote:
>"Cheri" wrote:
>>
>> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
>> them. Why would you though?
>
>Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
>out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
>items (and food: the two categories may overlap).
>
>People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
>like glue.

Speaking for yourself...

>Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
>emergency surgery?

You very obviously never had children, Ptrap.
You are far dumber than anyone has previously surmised.

[tiredofspam]

On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> isw wrote:
>>
>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>> work that into the cracks.
>
> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
> wood filler:
> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...FedxOgod1w4AIg
>
because wood filler will not work.

it shrinks, does not stick as well as epoxy...
and has other downsides.

As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
for advice.

[Doug Winterburn]

On 12/03/2012 03:04 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>> isw wrote:
>>>
>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>>> work that into the cracks.
>>
>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>> wood filler:
>> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...FedxOgod1w4AIg
>>
>>
> because wood filler will not work.
>
> it shrinks, does not stick as well as epoxy...
> and has other downsides.
>
> As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
> equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
> for advice.
>
>



--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

[Doug Winterburn]

On 12/03/2012 03:04 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>> isw wrote:
>>>
>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>>> work that into the cracks.
>>
>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>> wood filler:
>> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...FedxOgod1w4AIg
>>
>>
> because wood filler will not work.
>
> it shrinks, does not stick as well as epoxy...
> and has other downsides.
>
> As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
> equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
> for advice.
>
>
All he needs to do is rip it down the center of the glue line on a
tablesaw (or with a guide and a circular saw) and re-glue it.



--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

[jmcquown[_2_]]

On 12/3/2012 5:04 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>> isw wrote:
>>>
>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>>> work that into the cracks.
>>
>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>> wood filler:
>> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...FedxOgod1w4AIg
>>
>>
> As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
> equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
> for advice.
>

Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
sentimentality to become overly attached to one.

Jill

[tiredofspam]

On 12/3/2012 5:44 PM, jmcquown wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 5:04 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>> On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>>> isw wrote:
>>>>
>>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>>>> work that into the cracks.
>>>
>>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>>> wood filler:
>>> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>>> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...FedxOgod1w4AIg
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
>> equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
>> for advice.
>>
>
> Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
> sentimentality to become overly attached to one.
>
> Jill
>
Why not repair it. I repaired my wifes, just like Doug said, I ripped it
down the joint, then jointed.

But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an option.
But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and gluing.

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 3, 1:50*pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
> spamtrap1888 wrote:
> >"Cheri" wrote:
>
> >> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
> >> them. Why would you though?
>
> >Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
> >out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
> >items (and food: the two categories may overlap).
>
> >People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
> >like glue.
>
> Speaking for yourself...

I forgot Brokelyn was a yiddishe mamma.

> >Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
> >emergency surgery?
>
> You very obviously never had children, Ptrap.
> You are far dumber than anyone has previously surmised.

Explains a lot about Brokelyn -- he sniffed glue as a kid.

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 3, 10:22*am, "Cheri" > wrote:
> "spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Dec 3, 7:52 am, "Cheri" > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > "spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
>
> ....
> > On Dec 2, 12:28 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
>
> > > ImStillMags wrote:
> > > >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> > > >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
> > > >> seam.
> > > >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have
> > > >> some
> > > >> and
> > > >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on
> > > >> most of
> > > >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> > > >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for
> > > >> this?
> > > >> I
> > > >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick
> > > >> drying
>
> > > >Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
> > > >If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
> > > >in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it
> > > >sit
> > > >for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
> > > >that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
> > > >Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made
> > > >for
> > > >cutting boards.
>
> > > Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
> > > too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
> > > splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
> > > gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
> > > away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
> > > glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
> > > use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
> > > gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
> > > the next section:
> > >http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288
>
> > Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
> > indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>
> > But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> > filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> > obstructions.
>
> >http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...s_579850.html#...
>
> > ========
>
> > I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access
> > to
> > them. Why would you though?
>
> Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
> out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
> items (and food: the two categories may overlap).
>
> People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
> like glue.
>
> Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
> emergency surgery?
> ========
>
> That might be true in your case, I don't know. There is nothing hazardous in
> my house that is within my dogs range or reach, same with my grandkids. I am
> hypervigilant with things that matter. Oh, and I have lots of Gorilla Glue
> on the top shelf of my cupboard. YMMV
>

And how do you lock up the stepstool?

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 3, 10:21*am, jmcquown > wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 12:58 PM, spamtrap1888 wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Dec 3, 7:52 am, "Cheri" > wrote:
> >> "spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
>
> ....
> >> On Dec 2, 12:28 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
>
> >>> ImStillMags wrote:
> >>>> Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> >>>>> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
> >>>>> seam.
> >>>>> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some
> >>>>> and
> >>>>> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on
> >>>>> most of
> >>>>> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> >>>>> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this?
> >>>>> I
> >>>>> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>
> >>>> Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
> >>>> If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
> >>>> in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it
> >>>> sit
> >>>> for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
> >>>> that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
> >>>> Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for
> >>>> cutting boards.
>
> >>> Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
> >>> too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
> >>> splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
> >>> gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
> >>> away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
> >>> glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
> >>> use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
> >>> gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
> >>> the next section:
> >>>http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288
>
> >> Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
> >> indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>
> >> But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> >> filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> >> obstructions.
>
> >>http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...s_579850.html#....
>
> >> ========
>
> >> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
> >> them. Why would you though?
>
> > Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
> > out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
> > items (and food: the two categories may overlap).
>
> That is the assumption, yes. *I store things like glue (except Elmer's
> plain white glue for paper which is kept in a kitchen drawer) in the
> garage. *I have a tube of Gorilla Glue in the garage on a shelf next to
> some paint, turpentine, plant food, weed killer. *Why would I keep that
> stuff where my pet could get at it?

It's not a question of "keep," It's a question of "use." If neither
you or anyone else use it outside the garage, and the dog is never
allowed in the garage, then you have kept them sufficiently apart.

>
> > People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
> > like glue.
>
> > Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
> > emergency surgery?
>
> I didn't know it but it's a non-issue for me since I don't let pets get
> near toxic stuff. *This time of year people love poinsettia plants.
> Sure, they're pretty. *They're also pretty toxic. *Ditto many kinds of
> lillies. *Hence, none of them in my house.
>
> Responsible pet owners should know all this. *The operative word is
> "responsible".

Responsible drivers shouldn't get into collisions, but they do.

[Lew Hodgett]

"jmcquown" wrote:

> Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
> sentimentality to become overly attached to one.
----------------------------------------------
That's just to simple and low cost.

Lew

[Lew Hodgett]

> isw wrote:
>
> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste,
> and
> work that into the cracks.
---------------------------------------------------------
Why waste good epoxy by using garbage fillers?

Micro-balloons are the low cost filler of choice.

They fill without reducing strength.
--------------------------------------------------
"Doug Winterburn" wrote:

> All he needs to do is rip it down the center of the glue line on a
> tablesaw (or with a guide and a circular saw) and re-glue it.
---------------------------------------------------
Mix some epoxy and micro-balloons to the consistancy of mayo,
then butter both cut surfaces, mush together with hand pressure,
hold in place with spring clmps for 24-48 hours, the remove excess
epoxy and sand flush.

When the board returns to compost, the epoxy will still be in service.

Lew

[Ed Pawlowski]

On Mon, 3 Dec 2012 07:46:41 -0800 (PST), spamtrap1888
> wrote:



>
>Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
>indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>
>But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
>filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
>obstructions.
>
>http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...#axzz2E0JwDyZw

You feed glue to your dog? Properly stored and properly used, it is
not a problem.

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 3, 3:45*pm, Ed Pawlowski > wrote:
> On Mon, 3 Dec 2012 07:46:41 -0800 (PST), spamtrap1888
>
> > wrote:
>
> >Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
> >indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>
> >But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> >filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> >obstructions.
>
> >http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...s_579850.html#...
>
> You feed glue to your dog? * Properly stored and properly used, it is
> not a problem.

I'll keep it int he drawer next tot he loaded revolver.

[jmcquown[_2_]]

On 12/3/2012 6:06 PM, spamtrap1888 wrote:
> On Dec 3, 10:21 am, jmcquown > wrote:
>> Responsible pet owners should know all this. The operative word is
>> "responsible".
>
> Responsible drivers shouldn't get into collisions, but they do.
>
I haven't. I have had other people run their cars into mine. Guess I
must be a responsible driver. Go figure.

Jill

[Cheri[_3_]]

"spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
...
On Dec 3, 10:22 am, "Cheri" > wrote:
> "spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Dec 3, 7:52 am, "Cheri" > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > "spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> > On Dec 2, 12:28 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
>
> > > ImStillMags wrote:
> > > >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> > > >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a
> > > >> glued
> > > >> seam.
> > > >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have
> > > >> some
> > > >> and
> > > >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap
> > > >> on
> > > >> most of
> > > >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> > > >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for
> > > >> this?
> > > >> I
> > > >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick
> > > >> drying
>
> > > >Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
> > > >If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
> > > >in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let
> > > >it
> > > >sit
> > > >for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
> > > >that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
> > > >Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made
> > > >for
> > > >cutting boards.
>
> > > Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
> > > too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
> > > splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
> > > gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
> > > away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
> > > glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
> > > use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
> > > gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
> > > the next section:
> > >http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288
>
> > Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
> > indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>
> > But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> > filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> > obstructions.
>
> >http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...s_579850.html#...
>
> > ========
>
> > I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access
> > to
> > them. Why would you though?
>
> Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
> out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
> items (and food: the two categories may overlap).
>
> People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
> like glue.
>
> Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
> emergency surgery?
> ========
>
> That might be true in your case, I don't know. There is nothing hazardous
> in
> my house that is within my dogs range or reach, same with my grandkids. I
> am
> hypervigilant with things that matter. Oh, and I have lots of Gorilla Glue
> on the top shelf of my cupboard. YMMV
>

And how do you lock up the stepstool?

===========

With the same lock that goes on your straight jacket. :-)

Cheri

[Doug Winterburn]

On 12/03/2012 03:58 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 5:44 PM, jmcquown wrote:
>> On 12/3/2012 5:04 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>>> On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>>>> isw wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>>>>> work that into the cracks.
>>>>
>>>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>>>> wood filler:
>>>> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>>>> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...FedxOgod1w4AIg
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
>>> equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
>>> for advice.
>>>
>>
>> Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
>> sentimentality to become overly attached to one.
>>
>> Jill
>>
> Why not repair it. I repaired my wifes, just like Doug said, I ripped it
> down the joint, then jointed.
>
> But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an option.
> But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and
> gluing.

If he has a good tablesaw or circular saw blade, he shouldn't need to
joint the edges.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

[Bill[_28_]]

Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "jmcquown" wrote:
>
>> Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
>> sentimentality to become overly attached to one.
> ----------------------------------------------
> That's just to simple and low cost.
>
> Lew
>
>
>

My mother is still using the Mahogany and Maple one I made in the late
70's. I think it's a full inch thick. She doesn't even remember or care
that I made it, but I enjoy seeing it still in use when I visit.

[Brooklyn1]

On Mon, 3 Dec 2012 10:22:31 -0800, "Cheri" >
wrote:

>"spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
...
>On Dec 3, 7:52 am, "Cheri" > wrote:
>> "spamtrap1888" > wrote in message
>>
>> ...
>> On Dec 2, 12:28 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > ImStillMags wrote:
>> > >Tim west remoove wrote:
>>
>> > >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
>> > >> seam.
>> > >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have
>> > >> some
>> > >> and
>> > >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on
>> > >> most of
>> > >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>> > >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for
>> > >> this?
>> > >> I
>> > >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick
>> > >> drying
>>
>> > >Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
>> > >If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
>> > >in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it
>> > >sit
>> > >for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
>> > >that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
>> > >Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made
>> > >for
>> > >cutting boards.
>>
>> > Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
>> > too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
>> > splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
>> > gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
>> > away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
>> > glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
>> > use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
>> > gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
>> > the next section:
>> >http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288
>>
>> Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
>> indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>>
>> But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
>> filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
>> obstructions.
>>
>> http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...s_579850.html#...
>>
>> ========
>>
>> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access
>> to
>> them. Why would you though?
>>
>
>Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
>out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
>items (and food: the two categories may overlap).
>
>People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
>like glue.
>
>Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
>emergency surgery?
>========
>
>That might be true in your case, I don't know. There is nothing hazardous in
>my house that is within my dogs range or reach, same with my grandkids. I am
>hypervigilant with things that matter. Oh, and I have lots of Gorilla Glue
>on the top shelf of my cupboard. YMMV
>
>Cheri

Most if not all adhesives are toxic and/or hazardous. I have all
sorts of common household items that are hazardous but all are
properly secured. I use Gorilla Glue all the time but I keep it in a
toolbox. Right on the front label in large font Gorilla Glue "WARNS
to keep out of reach of children and animals, see warnings on back
panel"... obviously Maintrap can't read.

[Mike Marlow]

Brooklyn1 wrote:
> isw wrote:
>>
>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste,
>> and work that into the cracks.
>
> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
> wood filler:
> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...FedxOgod1w4AIg

Because that stuff is just junk.

--

-Mike-

[sf[_9_]]

On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 17:58:42 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
wrote:

> But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an option.
> But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and gluing.

Get real. No matter how he repairs it, he needs a vise. Most
ordinary people who don't have "equipment" are lucky to have a hammer
and a set of screwdrivers.

--
Food is an important part of a balanced diet.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 13:57:57 -0500, jmcquown >
wrote:

>On 12/3/2012 1:39 PM, Dave Smith wrote:
>> On 03/12/2012 11:48 AM, jmcquown wrote:
>>
>>> LOL I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
>>> chopping board. And why any glue would be stored where a dog could get
>>> to it.
>>>
>>>
>> I wonder if you could use that glue to stop a dog from licking its nuts.
>>
>There is this thing called neutering...
>
>Jill

OK, now I see the problem. The Vet snips the nuts off and closes up
with Gorilla Glue. The dog then licks the glue instead.