Our microwave died after 12 years. It was a costly over when it was new
and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
power level. Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
for cheap at a local second hand store. It's a very basic model and is
19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
never used. It works and that's mostly what mattered.

It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
That's eacy enough to figure out. But there is another setting to
choose COOK or DEFROST. Is this a power level setting? In other words,
if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? If so, can
that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?

Thanks

Marge

On Jan 9, 3:43*pm, wrote:
>
> Our microwave died after 12 years. *It was a costly over when it was new
> and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
> power level. *Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
> for cheap at a local second hand store. *It's a very basic model and is
> 19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
> never used. *It works and that's mostly what mattered.
>
> It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
> That's eacy enough to figure out. *But there is another setting to
> choose COOK or DEFROST. *Is this a power level setting? *In other words,
> if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? *If so, can
> that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?
>
> Thanks
>
> Marge

>
>
Probably. And new microwaves, with all the bells and whistles are
dirt cheap now. Check out your local Wal Mart or Target.

On Jan 9, 1:43*pm, wrote:
> Our microwave died after 12 years. *It was a costly over when it was new
> and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
> power level. *Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
> for cheap at a local second hand store. *It's a very basic model and is
> 19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
> never used. *It works and that's mostly what mattered.
>
> It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
> That's eacy enough to figure out. *But there is another setting to
> choose COOK or DEFROST. *Is this a power level setting? *In other words,
> if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? *If so, can
> that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?
>
> Thanks
>
> Marge

Google the brand and model number and you can probably get an online
manual.

On Jan 9, 1:43*pm, wrote:
> Our microwave died after 12 years. *It was a costly over when it was new
> and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
> power level. *Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
> for cheap at a local second hand store. *It's a very basic model and is
> 19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
> never used. *It works and that's mostly what mattered.
>
> It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
> That's eacy enough to figure out. *But there is another setting to
> choose COOK or DEFROST. *Is this a power level setting? *In other words,
> if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? *If so, can
> that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?
>

Defrost thaws without cooking. Mine alternates 30% power with 0%. It
stops and beeps so you can flip the food over. I wouldn't trust it to
slow cook safely

wrote:
>
> It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
> That's eacy enough to figure out. But there is another setting to
> choose COOK or DEFROST. Is this a power level setting? In other words,
> if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? If so, can
> that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?

It probably has low power. I used to have a rotary dial microwave. If you
want to defrost, you just manually set it to cook for so many seconds (or a
minute or so)....let it sit a minute or two...then repeat the process as
many times as necessary.

From what I've seen (and i could be wrong here). If you have a microwave
oven with a defrost cycle, it does NOT work on lower power, it just works
for a bit, then turns off, then repeats.

Bottom line.....if you want to defrost with that dial-up, cook shortly then
repeat. If you want to cook something, just put the timer on and let it go.

G.

On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 13:50:39 -0800 (PST), Chemo >
wrote:

>On Jan 9, 1:43*pm, wrote:
>> Our microwave died after 12 years. *It was a costly over when it was new
>> and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
>> power level. *Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
>> for cheap at a local second hand store. *It's a very basic model and is
>> 19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
>> never used. *It works and that's mostly what mattered.
>>
>> It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
>> That's eacy enough to figure out. *But there is another setting to
>> choose COOK or DEFROST. *Is this a power level setting? *In other words,
>> if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? *If so, can
>> that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Marge
>
>Google the brand and model number and you can probably get an online
>manual.

I was hoping to do that, and found nothing. It's a Welbilt brand. It
sort of looks like they are no longer in business. www.welbilt.com
brings up a company for walk in coolers for businesses. Google keeps
bringing up fixya.com which is just another list of linkso and none of
them are worth anything.

It would be nice to get a manual, but it's not really needed. It's all
real easy to understand except to know the power level of that DEFROST
setting. The local convenience store has a MW similar to mine, for
customer use. But I dont know the brand. I'll have to see if their's
has that DEFROST setting. If it does, maybe I can find a manual for
that one to get an idea.

Marge

Thanks

On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 15:43:34 -0600, wrote:

>Our microwave died after 12 years. It was a costly over when it was new
>and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
>power level. Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
>for cheap at a local second hand store. It's a very basic model and is
>19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
>never used. It works and that's mostly what mattered.
>
>It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
>That's eacy enough to figure out. But there is another setting to
>choose COOK or DEFROST. Is this a power level setting? In other words,
>if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? If so, can
>that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?
>
>Thanks
>
>Marg

The defrost cycle on my MW cycles at full power for a while and then
reduces power for the remainder of the time. The amount of time is
chosen by the weight of the item to be defrosted. I wouldn't try to
cook with Defrost.
Janet US

> wrote in message
...
> Our microwave died after 12 years. It was a costly over when it was new
> and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
> power level. Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
> for cheap at a local second hand store. It's a very basic model and is
> 19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
> never used. It works and that's mostly what mattered.
>
> It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
> That's eacy enough to figure out. But there is another setting to
> choose COOK or DEFROST. Is this a power level setting? In other words,
> if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? If so, can
> that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?
>
> Thanks
>
> Marge

Defrost on mine cooks at half power in small intervals. It shuts off
repeatedly and you have to keep pushing it back on. I wouldn't try to cook
with it but I would use it for melting chocolate.

On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 15:43:34 -0600, wrote:

>Our microwave died after 12 years. It was a costly over when it was new
>and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
>power level. Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
>for cheap at a local second hand store. It's a very basic model and is
>19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
>never used. It works and that's mostly what mattered.
>
>It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
>That's eacy enough to figure out. But there is another setting to
>choose COOK or DEFROST. Is this a power level setting? In other words,
>if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? If so, can
>that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?
>
>Thanks
>
>Marge

I wouldn't buy a 19-year-old microwave. The big problems with the
older ones is that the seals can degrade and cause them to "leak"
microwaves, making it rather iffy to stand in front of them.

You can get a new one for well under $100. I wouldn't take the chance
on a used one.

Doris

On Jan 9, 3:06*pm, Doris Night > wrote:
> On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 15:43:34 -0600, wrote:
> >Our microwave died after 12 years. *It was a costly over when it was new
> >and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
> >power level. *Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
> >for cheap at a local second hand store. *It's a very basic model and is
> >19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
> >never used. *It works and that's mostly what mattered.
>
> >It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
> >That's eacy enough to figure out. *But there is another setting to
> >choose COOK or DEFROST. *Is this a power level setting? *In other words,
> >if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? *If so, can
> >that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?
>
> >Thanks
>
> >Marge
>
> I wouldn't buy a 19-year-old microwave. The big problems with the
> older ones is that the seals can degrade and cause them to "leak"
> microwaves, making it rather iffy to stand in front of them.
>
> You can get a new one for well under $100. I wouldn't take the chance
> on a used one.
>
> Doris

that's why people wear tin foil hats.

On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 14:48:39 -0800, The Other Guy >
wrote:

>On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 16:40:38 -0600, wrote:
>
>
>>I was hoping to do that, and found nothing.
>
>What's the model number..
>
>

Welbilt - model MR 622W
Manufactured March 1994

Thanks
Marge

wrote:

> Our microwave ... has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than
> push buttons.
> That's eacy enough to figure out. But there is another setting to
> choose COOK or DEFROST. Is this a power level setting? In other
> words, if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? If
> so, can that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?

Yes but it depends...

The microwave oven only knows about power percentage and on/off. As
others have indicated, your DEFROST cycle may be a lower power setting,
a cycling of full power on and off, or some combination thereof, e.g.,
it may cycle 50% (or some other number) power on/off for DEFROST. You
won't know until you try whether it works for what you have in mind, so
try it and see.

-S-

> wrote:
> Our microwave died after 12 years. It was a costly over when it was new
> and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
> power level. Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
> for cheap at a local second hand store. It's a very basic model and is
> 19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
> never used. It works and that's mostly what mattered.
>
> It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
> That's eacy enough to figure out. But there is another setting to
> choose COOK or DEFROST. Is this a power level setting? In other words,
> if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? If so, can
> that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?
>
> Thanks
>
> Marge

Pushing the defrost will turn the power on and off. It's like another clock
timer. Microwave ovens ALWAYS put out full power when activated. It's not
power level. It's average power level with time.

Greg

Doris Night > wrote:
> On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 15:43:34 -0600, wrote:
>
>> Our microwave died after 12 years. It was a costly over when it was new
>> and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
>> power level. Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
>> for cheap at a local second hand store. It's a very basic model and is
>> 19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
>> never used. It works and that's mostly what mattered.
>>
>> It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
>> That's eacy enough to figure out. But there is another setting to
>> choose COOK or DEFROST. Is this a power level setting? In other words,
>> if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? If so, can
>> that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Marge
>
> I wouldn't buy a 19-year-old microwave. The big problems with the
> older ones is that the seals can degrade and cause them to "leak"
> microwaves, making it rather iffy to stand in front of them.
>
> You can get a new one for well under $100. I wouldn't take the chance
> on a used one.
>
> Doris

New microwaves do not have seals. My first microwave I built in 1971 did
have seals. The seal would also tend to melt at times, made from conducting
vinyl.
The seal was secondary protection.

Dirt trapped around the door will cause leakage.

Greg

gregz wrote:
> Doris Night > wrote:
>> On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 15:43:34 -0600, wrote:
>>
>>> Our microwave died after 12 years. It was a costly over when it
>>> was new and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to
>>> the desired power level. Until we can afford a new microwave, I
>>> found a small one for cheap at a local second hand store. It's a
>>> very basic model and is 19 years old, but it still had all the
>>> labels and looks like it was never used. It works and that's
>>> mostly what mattered.
>>>
>>> It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push
>>> buttons. That's eacy enough to figure out. But there is another
>>> setting to choose COOK or DEFROST. Is this a power level setting?
>>> In other words, if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than
>>> COOK? If so, can that be used to slow cook things that tend to
>>> boil over?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Marge
>>
>> I wouldn't buy a 19-year-old microwave. The big problems with the
>> older ones is that the seals can degrade and cause them to "leak"
>> microwaves, making it rather iffy to stand in front of them.
>>
>> You can get a new one for well under $100. I wouldn't take the chance
>> on a used one.
>>
>> Doris
>
> New microwaves do not have seals. My first microwave I built in 1971
> did have seals. The seal would also tend to melt at times, made from
> conducting vinyl.
> The seal was secondary protection.
>
> Dirt trapped around the door will cause leakage.

I remember when my boss told us all to go home and check ours for leaks.
Told us to run a lightbulb around it while it was on and if the bulb lit up,
there was a leak. And like fools, we all did it.

Sqwertz wrote:
> On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 13:45:27 -0800 (PST),
> wrote:
>
>> Probably. And new microwaves, with all the bells and whistles are
>> dirt cheap now. Check out your local Wal Mart or Target.
>
> I bought a couple of those under $100 microwaves from both Walmart and
> Target and they totally sucked. I went back to sears and got another
> Kenmore (Elite) Cost $230, but the extra investment is well worth it.

I was looking at the Target ones online. Sell for around $50. All got bad
ratings. Bought one online at Wal-mart for around $150 some years ago only
because I liked the looks of it. It was a Samsung. Danged thing had super
blue sparks in it at about 2 weeks. Wal-mart wouldn't take it back,
claiming that they never sold it. And I never got any kind of packing slip
or receipt when it came. So I was stuck.

The Other Guy > wrote:
> On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 19:12:01 -0600, wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 14:48:39 -0800, The Other Guy >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 16:40:38 -0600, wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> I was hoping to do that, and found nothing.
>>>
>>> What's the model number..
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Welbilt - model MR 622W
>> Manufactured March 1994
>
> Used ALL my usual tricks, and can't find anything useful.
>
> Only happened to me once before, so the Net isn't QUITE perfect
> (yet)...
>
>

The Internet usually sucks looking for pre internet stuff, or obsolete
stuff.

Greg

The Other Guy > wrote:
> On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 02:04:37 +0000 (UTC), gregz >
> wrote:
>
>
>> Pushing the defrost will turn the power on and off. It's like another clock
>> timer. Microwave ovens ALWAYS put out full power when activated. It's not
>> power level. It's average power level with time.
>
> I'd have agreed with that, UNTIL my latest addition, a Toshiba,
> which does have variable power.
>
>

have model # ?
A microwave magnetron is an oscillator tube. It's full on or nothing. Too
unstable for lower power levels, unless some new magic is used.

I have been using a tabletop panasonic unit for about 7 years. A light
weight inverter, but it's a powerhouse. 1200 watts. It's 50% more powerful
than my expensive over the range model. They are around $100.

Greg

Sqwertz wrote:
> On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 18:50:32 -0800, Julie Bove wrote:
>
>> I was looking at the Target ones online. Sell for around $50. All
>> got bad ratings. Bought one online at Wal-mart for around $150 some
>> years ago only because I liked the looks of it. It was a Samsung.
>> Danged thing had super blue sparks in it at about 2 weeks. Wal-mart
>> wouldn't take it back, claiming that they never sold it. And I
>> never got any kind of packing slip or receipt when it came. So I
>> was stuck.
>
> I'm positive there was some way to prove you got it from Walmart.
> Email confirmation when you placed the order, at least. Credit card
> receipt, screenshot of the order confirmation, UPS proof of delivery
> etc...
>
> More unnecessary drama.

Perhaps but at the time, I didn't have time to do any of that stuff. We
were preparing to move to NY. I know that the smarter thing to do would
have been to wait to buy one once we got there because you always risk the
movers breaking something. But I didn't. As for a screenshot, I have no
way of knowing how to do this. And this was many years ago. As for e-mails
they are not something I keep. Once I get the item, the e-mail is deleted.
Now there is a list of what you ordered and for some stores it dates back to
forever. Not sure that it was that way for Wal-mart at the time.

gregz > wrote:
> The Other Guy > wrote:
>> On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 02:04:37 +0000 (UTC), gregz >
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Pushing the defrost will turn the power on and off. It's like another clock
>>> timer. Microwave ovens ALWAYS put out full power when activated. It's not
>>> power level. It's average power level with time.
>>
>> I'd have agreed with that, UNTIL my latest addition, a Toshiba,
>> which does have variable power.
>>
>>
>
> have model # ?
> A microwave magnetron is an oscillator tube. It's full on or nothing. Too
> unstable for lower power levels, unless some new magic is used.
>
> I have been using a tabletop panasonic unit for about 7 years. A light
> weight inverter, but it's a powerhouse. 1200 watts. It's 50% more powerful
> than my expensive over the range model. They are around $100.
>
> Greg

As cool a unit it is, the panasonic does not turn on light when you open
the door, pain.

In playing around with microwaves, in the early 80's I bought two used
norelco units. Identical, but sold as-is. The fellow could not get either
to work, but I found one did not work if you had no ground connection.
later I added a mechanical timer, 0-10 secs. dad loved it. This unit was
remarkable in it's time. It had a browning element, as well as a
temperature probe. I don't think I've since seen a temperature probe unit.
However I never used the function since I had to remove the original
control panel.

Greg

On Jan 9, 10:53*pm, "Julie Bove" > wrote:
> Sqwertz wrote:
> > On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 18:50:32 -0800, Julie Bove wrote:
>
> >> I was looking at the Target ones online. *Sell for around $50. *All
> >> got bad ratings. *Bought one online at Wal-mart for around $150 some
> >> years ago only because I liked the looks of it. It was a Samsung.
> >> Danged thing had super blue sparks in it at about 2 weeks. *Wal-mart
> >> wouldn't take it back, claiming that they never sold it. *And I
> >> never got any kind of packing slip or receipt when it came. *So I
> >> was stuck.
>
> > I'm positive there was some way to prove you got it from Walmart.
> > Email confirmation when you placed the order, at least. *Credit card
> > receipt, screenshot of the order confirmation, UPS proof of delivery
> > etc...
>
> > More unnecessary drama.
>
> Perhaps but at the time, I didn't have time to do any of that stuff. *We
> were preparing to move to NY. *I know that the smarter thing to do would
> have been to wait to buy one once we got there because you always risk the
> movers breaking something. *But I didn't. *As for a screenshot, I have no
> way of knowing how to do this. *And this was many years ago. *As for e-mails
> they are not something I keep. *Once I get the item, the e-mail is deleted.
> Now there is a list of what you ordered and for some stores it dates back to
> forever. *Not sure that it was that way for Wal-mart at the time.

>
>
You've only yourself to blame. Maybe this taught you something about
ordering online and keeping e-mails, etc.

Sqwertz wrote:
> On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 13:45:27 -0800 (PST),
> wrote:
>
>> Probably. And new microwaves, with all the bells and whistles are
>> dirt cheap now. Check out your local Wal Mart or Target.
>
> I bought a couple of those under $100 microwaves from both Walmart and
> Target and they totally sucked. I went back to sears and got another
> Kenmore (Elite) Cost $230, but the extra investment is well worth it.
>
> -sw

I've had a $25 microwave from Home Depot for 7 years now and it still
does its two jobs as well as ever - heating and defrosting.

On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 04:29:59 +0000 (UTC), gregz >
wrote:

>The Other Guy > wrote:
>> On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 19:12:01 -0600, wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 14:48:39 -0800, The Other Guy >
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 16:40:38 -0600, wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I was hoping to do that, and found nothing.
>>>>
>>>> What's the model number..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Welbilt - model MR 622W
>>> Manufactured March 1994
>>
>> Used ALL my usual tricks, and can't find anything useful.
>>
>> Only happened to me once before, so the Net isn't QUITE perfect
>> (yet)...
>>
>>
>
>The Internet usually sucks looking for pre internet stuff, or obsolete
>stuff.
>
>Greg

Try here
http://www.fixya.com/support/p7414-w...microwave_oven
Janet US

wrote:
> On Jan 9, 10:53 pm, "Julie Bove" > wrote:
>> Sqwertz wrote:
>>> On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 18:50:32 -0800, Julie Bove wrote:
>>
>>>> I was looking at the Target ones online. Sell for around $50. All
>>>> got bad ratings. Bought one online at Wal-mart for around $150 some
>>>> years ago only because I liked the looks of it. It was a Samsung.
>>>> Danged thing had super blue sparks in it at about 2 weeks. Wal-mart
>>>> wouldn't take it back, claiming that they never sold it. And I
>>>> never got any kind of packing slip or receipt when it came. So I
>>>> was stuck.
>>
>>> I'm positive there was some way to prove you got it from Walmart.
>>> Email confirmation when you placed the order, at least. Credit card
>>> receipt, screenshot of the order confirmation, UPS proof of delivery
>>> etc...
>>
>>> More unnecessary drama.
>>
>> Perhaps but at the time, I didn't have time to do any of that stuff.
>> We were preparing to move to NY. I know that the smarter thing to do
>> would have been to wait to buy one once we got there because you
>> always risk the movers breaking something. But I didn't. As for a
>> screenshot, I have no
>> way of knowing how to do this. And this was many years ago. As for
>> e-mails they are not something I keep. Once I get the item, the
>> e-mail is deleted. Now there is a list of what you ordered and for
>> some stores it dates back to forever. Not sure that it was that way
>> for Wal-mart at the time.
>
>>
>>
> You've only yourself to blame. Maybe this taught you something about
> ordering online and keeping e-mails, etc.

I still don't keep e-mails. And no need to order stuff online like that
here because there are plenty of stores around here that sell such stuff.
At the time, there wasn't there. The Wal-mart was in Oakland which was far
away and when we did go in there to take it back they didn't even have any
microwaves for sale.

tert in seattle wrote:
> Sqwertz wrote:
>> On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 13:45:27 -0800 (PST),
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Probably. And new microwaves, with all the bells and whistles are
>>> dirt cheap now. Check out your local Wal Mart or Target.
>>
>> I bought a couple of those under $100 microwaves from both Walmart
>> and Target and they totally sucked. I went back to sears and got
>> another Kenmore (Elite) Cost $230, but the extra investment is well
>> worth it.
>>
>> -sw
>
> I've had a $25 microwave from Home Depot for 7 years now and it still
> does its two jobs as well as ever - heating and defrosting.

Wow! Never seen one that cheap. $47 is the cheapest I've seen. I think my
current one was aroune $119. I need a slightly larger one on occasion. But
usually not.

On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 20:12:07 -0800, The Other Guy >
wrote:

>On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 19:12:01 -0600, wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 14:48:39 -0800, The Other Guy >
>>wrote:
>>
>>>On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 16:40:38 -0600, wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I was hoping to do that, and found nothing.
>>>
>>>What's the model number..
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Welbilt - model MR 622W
>>Manufactured March 1994
>
>Used ALL my usual tricks, and can't find anything useful.
>
>Only happened to me once before, so the Net isn't QUITE perfect
>(yet)...
>

Thanks for trying....

Same results I got as well as my husband.
This oven is kind of a rarity it seems.

I sort of can answer my own question now. I put a cup of cold water in
it and put it on DEFROST. Set it for 2 minutes. The water got warm,
but that's all. The oven kept turning on and off that whole time. I
did another 3 minutes and the water was a little warmer, but not by
much.

Then I did the same thing on COOK using cold water again. I only set it
to 2 minutes, and I got hot water, almost as hot as fresh brewed coffee.
One more minute and it was darn near boiling. On the cook setting there
is no cycling, it heats continuously.

I may not know the percentage of power, but at least I know what it does
now. Besides defrosting, I could see using that setting to slowly warm
up a cup of soup, and not worrying about it boiling over. Otherwise the
cook sycle seems to be what is used the most.

Marge

> wrote in message
...
> On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 20:12:07 -0800, The Other Guy >
> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 19:12:01 -0600, wrote:
>>
>>>On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 14:48:39 -0800, The Other Guy >
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 16:40:38 -0600, wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I was hoping to do that, and found nothing.
>>>>
>>>>What's the model number..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>Welbilt - model MR 622W
>>>Manufactured March 1994
>>
>>Used ALL my usual tricks, and can't find anything useful.
>>
>>Only happened to me once before, so the Net isn't QUITE perfect
>>(yet)...
>>
>
> Thanks for trying....
>
> Same results I got as well as my husband.
> This oven is kind of a rarity it seems.
>
> I sort of can answer my own question now. I put a cup of cold water in
> it and put it on DEFROST. Set it for 2 minutes. The water got warm,
> but that's all. The oven kept turning on and off that whole time. I
> did another 3 minutes and the water was a little warmer, but not by
> much.
>
> Then I did the same thing on COOK using cold water again. I only set it
> to 2 minutes, and I got hot water, almost as hot as fresh brewed coffee.
> One more minute and it was darn near boiling. On the cook setting there
> is no cycling, it heats continuously.
>
> I may not know the percentage of power, but at least I know what it does
> now. Besides defrosting, I could see using that setting to slowly warm
> up a cup of soup, and not worrying about it boiling over. Otherwise the
> cook sycle seems to be what is used the most.

My first microwave had no defrost or any other settings. Not even a
turntable.

On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 18:50:32 -0800, "Julie Bove" >
wrote:

>
>I was looking at the Target ones online. Sell for around $50. All got bad
>ratings. Bought one online at Wal-mart for around $150 some years ago only
>because I liked the looks of it. It was a Samsung. Danged thing had super
>blue sparks in it at about 2 weeks. Wal-mart wouldn't take it back,
>claiming that they never sold it. And I never got any kind of packing slip
>or receipt when it came. So I was stuck.
>

Sounds typical for Walmart. We bought a digital camera there about 6
years ago on their Black Friday sale. Gave it to one of our older kids
for xmas. They tried it and showed me the photos. They were beyond
bad, they were absolute junk. I had the receipt, and I took it back to
Walmart, about January 5th. They said that the return policy on
electronics is only 30 days, and it was purchased on November 26
(something like that), so it was past the return date. We asked for the
manager, and my husband got pretty hot about it. We brought along the
horrid photos and showed them to this manager. He agreed they were bad,
and said that he could do an even exchange, *just this one time*. I
really did not want that same model camera, and fortunately they were
out of stock on them. We offerred to pay another $45 ot $50 to get a
better brand camera they had in stock. The manager agreed. We got it,
and it was a great camera. The kids still use it.

So, the next time you buy a Black Friday sale electronics item,
remember, the return policy ends about one day after xmas. Barely
enough time to try the thing....

If we decide to get a newer microwave in the future, it WONT be from
Walmart.

> wrote in message
...
> On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 18:50:32 -0800, "Julie Bove" >
> wrote:
>
>>
>>I was looking at the Target ones online. Sell for around $50. All got
>>bad
>>ratings. Bought one online at Wal-mart for around $150 some years ago
>>only
>>because I liked the looks of it. It was a Samsung. Danged thing had super
>>blue sparks in it at about 2 weeks. Wal-mart wouldn't take it back,
>>claiming that they never sold it. And I never got any kind of packing
>>slip
>>or receipt when it came. So I was stuck.
>>
>
> Sounds typical for Walmart. We bought a digital camera there about 6
> years ago on their Black Friday sale. Gave it to one of our older kids
> for xmas. They tried it and showed me the photos. They were beyond
> bad, they were absolute junk. I had the receipt, and I took it back to
> Walmart, about January 5th. They said that the return policy on
> electronics is only 30 days, and it was purchased on November 26
> (something like that), so it was past the return date. We asked for the
> manager, and my husband got pretty hot about it. We brought along the
> horrid photos and showed them to this manager. He agreed they were bad,
> and said that he could do an even exchange, *just this one time*. I
> really did not want that same model camera, and fortunately they were
> out of stock on them. We offerred to pay another $45 ot $50 to get a
> better brand camera they had in stock. The manager agreed. We got it,
> and it was a great camera. The kids still use it.
>
> So, the next time you buy a Black Friday sale electronics item,
> remember, the return policy ends about one day after xmas. Barely
> enough time to try the thing....
>
> If we decide to get a newer microwave in the future, it WONT be from
> Walmart.

Well I just ordered one but I got the 2 year warranty.

Just prior to my husband moving to CA, I bought him some clearance shirts
online. He didn't want them so we stood in line forever at the store to
return them. I did have the packing slip. But the prices that rung up were
far less than I paid for them, even though they didn't have the shirts in
the store. I checked. They had a call a manager. I did finally get the
correct money back.

Then I wound up spending more than I had intended to so got some money out
of the cash machine. I was astounded when a $1 bill came out. I counted
the money. There were the correct number of bills but a $1 instead of a
$20. So again I had to stand in line only to find out that this machine did
this sort of thing all the time. I think I had to wait about a half an hour
to get this righted. Everyone agreed that there was a problem but nobody
knew what to do about it. They had to call a series of managers until they
finally got one that could do something.

On 1/9/2013 11:53 PM, Julie Bove wrote:
> Sqwertz wrote:
>> On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 18:50:32 -0800, Julie Bove wrote:
>>
>>> I was looking at the Target ones online. Sell for around $50. All
>>> got bad ratings. Bought one online at Wal-mart for around $150 some
>>> years ago only because I liked the looks of it. It was a Samsung.
>>> Danged thing had super blue sparks in it at about 2 weeks. Wal-mart
>>> wouldn't take it back, claiming that they never sold it. And I
>>> never got any kind of packing slip or receipt when it came. So I
>>> was stuck.
>>
>> I'm positive there was some way to prove you got it from Walmart.
>> Email confirmation when you placed the order, at least. Credit card
>> receipt, screenshot of the order confirmation, UPS proof of delivery
>> etc...
>>
>> More unnecessary drama.
>
> As for e-mails they are not something I keep. Once I get the item, the e-mail is deleted.
> Now there is a list of what you ordered and for some stores it dates back to
> forever. Not sure that it was that way for Wal-mart at the time.
>
>
Bad idea, not saving emails. I have email folders for saving all sorts
of things. About 25 years ago I had a credit card with credit
protection insurance in case of job loss, disability, etc. The company
I worked for went out of business and I was temporarily out of a job. I
immediately emailed the CC company to notify them I was out of work.
They tried to claim I hadn't notified them within 30 days. Ha! I'd
saved a copy of the email where I notified them and I could prove it.
They were forced to honor the contract.

I save everything related to online purchases and transactions for at
least a year.

Jill

"jmcquown" > wrote in message
...
> On 1/9/2013 11:53 PM, Julie Bove wrote:
>> Sqwertz wrote:
>>> On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 18:50:32 -0800, Julie Bove wrote:
>>>
>>>> I was looking at the Target ones online. Sell for around $50. All
>>>> got bad ratings. Bought one online at Wal-mart for around $150 some
>>>> years ago only because I liked the looks of it. It was a Samsung.
>>>> Danged thing had super blue sparks in it at about 2 weeks. Wal-mart
>>>> wouldn't take it back, claiming that they never sold it. And I
>>>> never got any kind of packing slip or receipt when it came. So I
>>>> was stuck.
>>>
>>> I'm positive there was some way to prove you got it from Walmart.
>>> Email confirmation when you placed the order, at least. Credit card
>>> receipt, screenshot of the order confirmation, UPS proof of delivery
>>> etc...
>>>
>>> More unnecessary drama.
>>
>> As for e-mails they are not something I keep. Once I get the item, the
>> e-mail is deleted.
>> Now there is a list of what you ordered and for some stores it dates back
>> to
>> forever. Not sure that it was that way for Wal-mart at the time.
>>
>>
> Bad idea, not saving emails. I have email folders for saving all sorts of
> things. About 25 years ago I had a credit card with credit protection
> insurance in case of job loss, disability, etc. The company I worked for
> went out of business and I was temporarily out of a job. I immediately
> emailed the CC company to notify them I was out of work. They tried to
> claim I hadn't notified them within 30 days. Ha! I'd saved a copy of the
> email where I notified them and I could prove it. They were forced to
> honor the contract.
>
> I save everything related to online purchases and transactions for at
> least a year.

Same with us. Doesn't take any space really and it is so useful!

--
--
http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/

On 1/10/2013 11:35 AM, Ophelia wrote:
>
>
> "jmcquown" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On 1/9/2013 11:53 PM, Julie Bove wrote:
>>> As for e-mails they are not something I keep. Once I get the item,
>>> the e-mail is deleted.
>>> Now there is a list of what you ordered and for some stores it dates
>>> back to
>>> forever. Not sure that it was that way for Wal-mart at the time.
>>>
>>>
>> Bad idea, not saving emails. I have email folders for saving all
>> sorts of things. About 25 years ago I had a credit card with credit
>> protection insurance in case of job loss, disability, etc. The
>> company I worked for went out of business and I was temporarily out of
>> a job. I immediately emailed the CC company to notify them I was out
>> of work. They tried to claim I hadn't notified them within 30 days.
>> Ha! I'd saved a copy of the email where I notified them and I could
>> prove it. They were forced to honor the contract.
>>
>> I save everything related to online purchases and transactions for at
>> least a year.
>
> Same with us. Doesn't take any space really and it is so useful!
>
I do most of my bill payment online. I save every receipt showing when
I paid the bill and the receipts saying the payment was received. That
way no one can claim later I hadn't paid my bill. To me it's just
common sense.

Jill

"The Other Guy" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 04:40:07 +0000 (UTC), gregz >
> wrote:
>
>>have model # ?
>
> Sorry, it a Panasonic, NN-SN778S.
>
> You can't hear ANY 'cycling' of power no matter what level you set.
> You clearly could on all the other units I had.
>
> This one is large (1.6 cubic feet), and 1250 watts, and works great.

I have a Panasonic 1200, works great. The only complaint I have with mine is
that there is no light when you open the door, though there is a light while
cooking. I miss being able to see inside when the door opens.

Cheri

On Wednesday, January 9, 2013 4:40:38 PM UTC-6, wrote:
> On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 13:50:39 -0800 (PST), Chemo >
>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> >On Jan 9, 1:43�pm, wrote:
>
> >> Our microwave died after 12 years. �It was a costly over when it was new
>
> >> and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
>
> >> power level. �Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
>
> >> for cheap at a local second hand store. �It's a very basic model and is
>
> >> 19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
>
> >> never used. �It works and that's mostly what mattered.
>
> >>
>
> >> It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
>
> >> That's eacy enough to figure out. �But there is another setting to
>
> >> choose COOK or DEFROST. �Is this a power level setting? �In other words,
>
> >> if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? �If so, can
>
> >> that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?
>
> >>
>
> >> Thanks
>
> >>
>
> >> Marge
>
> >
>
> >Google the brand and model number and you can probably get an online
>
> >manual.
>
>
>
> I was hoping to do that, and found nothing. It's a Welbilt brand. It
>
> sort of looks like they are no longer in business. www.welbilt.com
>
> brings up a company for walk in coolers for businesses. Google keeps
>
> bringing up fixya.com which is just another list of linkso and none of
>
> them are worth anything.
>
>
>
> It would be nice to get a manual, but it's not really needed. It's all
>
> real easy to understand except to know the power level of that DEFROST
>
> setting. The local convenience store has a MW similar to mine, for
>
> customer use. But I dont know the brand. I'll have to see if their's
>
> has that DEFROST setting. If it does, maybe I can find a manual for
>
> that one to get an idea.
>
Do this:
Fill a small coffee mug with water
Set the microwave to defrost
Set it for 5 minutes
Start it
Listen for the unit to start making a different sound
When it does, count the seconds until the sound changes back
Count the seconds that it makes that sound
Determine which sound is ON by when the water boils
If it is on for 10 seconds then off for 40, your defrost setting is 20% power.
>
> Marge
>
>
>
> Thanks

--Bryan

On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 16:35:11 -0000, "Ophelia"
> wrote:

>
>
>"jmcquown" > wrote in message
...
>> On 1/9/2013 11:53 PM, Julie Bove wrote:
>>> Sqwertz wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 18:50:32 -0800, Julie Bove wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I was looking at the Target ones online. Sell for around $50. All
>>>>> got bad ratings. Bought one online at Wal-mart for around $150 some
>>>>> years ago only because I liked the looks of it. It was a Samsung.
>>>>> Danged thing had super blue sparks in it at about 2 weeks. Wal-mart
>>>>> wouldn't take it back, claiming that they never sold it. And I
>>>>> never got any kind of packing slip or receipt when it came. So I
>>>>> was stuck.
>>>>
>>>> I'm positive there was some way to prove you got it from Walmart.
>>>> Email confirmation when you placed the order, at least. Credit card
>>>> receipt, screenshot of the order confirmation, UPS proof of delivery
>>>> etc...
>>>>
>>>> More unnecessary drama.
>>>
>>> As for e-mails they are not something I keep. Once I get the item, the
>>> e-mail is deleted.
>>> Now there is a list of what you ordered and for some stores it dates back
>>> to
>>> forever. Not sure that it was that way for Wal-mart at the time.
>>>
>>>
>> Bad idea, not saving emails. I have email folders for saving all sorts of
>> things. About 25 years ago I had a credit card with credit protection
>> insurance in case of job loss, disability, etc. The company I worked for
>> went out of business and I was temporarily out of a job. I immediately
>> emailed the CC company to notify them I was out of work. They tried to
>> claim I hadn't notified them within 30 days. Ha! I'd saved a copy of the
>> email where I notified them and I could prove it. They were forced to
>> honor the contract.
>>
>> I save everything related to online purchases and transactions for at
>> least a year.
>
>Same with us. Doesn't take any space really and it is so useful!

Hmm, every company I shop on line maintains a record of every item I
buy since the very first item to the very last... just enter my
password and look at my account, every transaction is there. Anyone
who bought a microwave oven would have registered it... I can
guaranatee that Samsung has a purchase record from the retailer even
if you didn't register the unit. With most retailers one needs to
make warranty claims with the manufacturer... Amazon would exchange
the item no questions asked but Target may very well insist you deal
with Samsung. In any event even if you save no receipt or any records
Samsung knows who purchased the microwave with that serial number from
the moment it was sold, that bar code was scanned and contains every
bit of info on that unit and immediately matches it to the purchaser's
info. Were an item shipped to your residence the carrier will have a
record of the sale as well. The only way Julie has no record of her
Samsung Microwave purchase is that she never bought it.

"jmcquown" > wrote in message
...
> On 1/10/2013 11:35 AM, Ophelia wrote:
>>
>>
>> "jmcquown" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> On 1/9/2013 11:53 PM, Julie Bove wrote:
>>>> As for e-mails they are not something I keep. Once I get the item,
>>>> the e-mail is deleted.
>>>> Now there is a list of what you ordered and for some stores it dates
>>>> back to
>>>> forever. Not sure that it was that way for Wal-mart at the time.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Bad idea, not saving emails. I have email folders for saving all
>>> sorts of things. About 25 years ago I had a credit card with credit
>>> protection insurance in case of job loss, disability, etc. The
>>> company I worked for went out of business and I was temporarily out of
>>> a job. I immediately emailed the CC company to notify them I was out
>>> of work. They tried to claim I hadn't notified them within 30 days.
>>> Ha! I'd saved a copy of the email where I notified them and I could
>>> prove it. They were forced to honor the contract.
>>>
>>> I save everything related to online purchases and transactions for at
>>> least a year.
>>
>> Same with us. Doesn't take any space really and it is so useful!
>>
> I do most of my bill payment online. I save every receipt showing when I
> paid the bill and the receipts saying the payment was received. That way
> no one can claim later I hadn't paid my bill. To me it's just common
> sense.

We do 'online' banking too which give us records.

--
--
http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/

"Cheri" > wrote in message
...
> "The Other Guy" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 04:40:07 +0000 (UTC), gregz >
>> wrote:
>>
>>>have model # ?
>>
>> Sorry, it a Panasonic, NN-SN778S.
>>
>> You can't hear ANY 'cycling' of power no matter what level you set.
>> You clearly could on all the other units I had.
>>
>> This one is large (1.6 cubic feet), and 1250 watts, and works great.
>
> I have a Panasonic 1200, works great. The only complaint I have with mine
> is that there is no light when you open the door, though there is a light
> while cooking. I miss being able to see inside when the door opens.

Mine is a Panasonic combination oven and I love it.

--
--
http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/

On 1/10/2013 12:05 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> Hmm, every company I shop on line maintains a record of every item I
> buy since the very first item to the very last... just enter my
> password and look at my account, every transaction is there. Anyone
> who bought a microwave oven would have registered it...

But this is all about Julie. Apparently it is difficult for her to save
emails. Or to even think about registering the purchase of the
microwave, either online or by sending in the enclosed pre-paid snail
mail card.

Jill

On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 15:43:34 -0600, wrote:

>Our microwave died after 12 years. It was a costly over when it was new
>and it had lots of bells and whistles and could be set to the desired
>power level. Until we can afford a new microwave, I found a small one
>for cheap at a local second hand store. It's a very basic model and is
>19 years old, but it still had all the labels and looks like it was
>never used. It works and that's mostly what mattered.
>
>It has a rotary setting to set the minutes, rather than push buttons.
>That's eacy enough to figure out. But there is another setting to
>choose COOK or DEFROST. Is this a power level setting? In other words,
>if this is set to DEFROST, is the power lower than COOK? If so, can
>that be used to slow cook things that tend to boil over?
>
>Thanks
>
>Marge
I gave the link to the manual available for download in an earlier
post.
Janet US

On Wednesday, January 9, 2013 9:50:32 PM UTC-5, Julie Bove wrote:

>
Bought one online at Wal-mart for around $150 some years ago only
>
> because I liked the looks of it. It was a Samsung. Danged thing had super
>
> blue sparks in it at about 2 weeks. Wal-mart wouldn't take it back,
>
> claiming that they never sold it. And I never got any kind of packing slip
>
> or receipt when it came. So I was stuck.


If you bought them online, didn't you have proof thru your credit card? And TWICE this happened? My, my lady.....

Hard to believe NO packing slip in two instances? Come ON.