Way back some time ago when I was having problems with the moldy flat bread,
someone here said that I might have mold spores in my kitchen. And they
might have been right!

I knew that when we bought this house, the caulking around the kitchen sink
didn't look right. But I'd never had exactly this type of sink before.
Looks to be white enamel but the edge is raised up quite a bit. My mom has
a sink that looks the same inside but hers has a metal rim around it. So...
Whoever caulked this sink seemed to have done it in layers. Many, many
layers. Each one glopped on top of the other and the end result was
massive. I am not sure how thick it was or how far it extended out from the
sink when we moved in. What I did know was that each time I tried to clean
around the sink, little chunks of it broke off.

Things came to a head a couple of weeks ago when the caulk no longer had
just that dingy look that it has had for a long time now but turned black.
And I could smell a mildewy aroma coming from what I thought was the sink.
After scouting around, I determined that it wasn't the sink itself but the
caulk!

I spent several days and countless hours trying to remove this stuff. To
make matters worse, I think at some points they used grout in there and not
just caulk! I'd never seen such a thing. By the time I tried getting it
all off of there, the mass of stuff extended about 1/2 of an inch out from
the sink and up about a half of an inch. Some came off in small chunks but
most in very tiny bits. And under the rim of the sink, it took forever.
Teensy tiny bits coming off as I scraped.

I did look online to see how to do this. I bought a variety of tools for
removal and also used a gel that was supposed to soften the stuff. I had to
apply that twice! To make matters worse, on the one side of the sink, there
was a chip. Probably happened when they installed it. And instead of
repairing the chip, they just covered it with grout or caulk. Not sure
which!

I was amazed to see how really very small/thin the bead of caulk should be.
These people seriously overdid it. And apparently made no attempt to smooth
it out or clean it up. I could see layer upon layer of mold as I picked and
scraped off the old crud. Apparently each time it got moldy, instead of
cleaning it, they just slapped on another layer.

So, whoever said there were mold spores in the kitchen, may well have been
right!

I have never applied caulk before but I think I did it right. Sink looks,
much, much better!

In our house on Cape Cod, we had a bathroom sink that looked similar in
design to this one but there was no caulk around it. I mentioned this to
the repair people whenever they came and also when they did our yearly
inspection. They made a note of it but never did anything about it. I
could literally wiggle the sink around and even pick it up slightly.
Couldn't pick it up too much of course because it was attached by the
plumbing. But we never seemed to have any repercussions from the lack of
caulk. I suppose if I had flooded the sink and the countertop got wet,
there may have been a problem.

So anyway. Sink looks very good now! The caulk I used said it was white
but it dries clear. Oh and I did repair the enamel. I do know how to do
that.

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 01:16:59 -0700, "Julie Bove"
> wrote:

The sink rim should be sealed with Plumber's Putty, not caulking
compound. You need to remove the sink, clean out all the old
caulking, and reset it in plumber's putty. If your sink is very old
you may just want to replace the sink.

>Way back some time ago when I was having problems with the moldy flat bread,
>someone here said that I might have mold spores in my kitchen. And they
>might have been right!
>
>I knew that when we bought this house, the caulking around the kitchen sink
>didn't look right. But I'd never had exactly this type of sink before.
>Looks to be white enamel but the edge is raised up quite a bit. My mom has
>a sink that looks the same inside but hers has a metal rim around it. So...
>Whoever caulked this sink seemed to have done it in layers. Many, many
>layers. Each one glopped on top of the other and the end result was
>massive. I am not sure how thick it was or how far it extended out from the
>sink when we moved in. What I did know was that each time I tried to clean
>around the sink, little chunks of it broke off.
>
>Things came to a head a couple of weeks ago when the caulk no longer had
>just that dingy look that it has had for a long time now but turned black.
>And I could smell a mildewy aroma coming from what I thought was the sink.
>After scouting around, I determined that it wasn't the sink itself but the
>caulk!
>
>I spent several days and countless hours trying to remove this stuff. To
>make matters worse, I think at some points they used grout in there and not
>just caulk! I'd never seen such a thing. By the time I tried getting it
>all off of there, the mass of stuff extended about 1/2 of an inch out from
>the sink and up about a half of an inch. Some came off in small chunks but
>most in very tiny bits. And under the rim of the sink, it took forever.
>Teensy tiny bits coming off as I scraped.
>
>I did look online to see how to do this. I bought a variety of tools for
>removal and also used a gel that was supposed to soften the stuff. I had to
>apply that twice! To make matters worse, on the one side of the sink, there
>was a chip. Probably happened when they installed it. And instead of
>repairing the chip, they just covered it with grout or caulk. Not sure
>which!
>
>I was amazed to see how really very small/thin the bead of caulk should be.
>These people seriously overdid it. And apparently made no attempt to smooth
>it out or clean it up. I could see layer upon layer of mold as I picked and
>scraped off the old crud. Apparently each time it got moldy, instead of
>cleaning it, they just slapped on another layer.
>
>So, whoever said there were mold spores in the kitchen, may well have been
>right!
>
>I have never applied caulk before but I think I did it right. Sink looks,
>much, much better!
>
>In our house on Cape Cod, we had a bathroom sink that looked similar in
>design to this one but there was no caulk around it. I mentioned this to
>the repair people whenever they came and also when they did our yearly
>inspection. They made a note of it but never did anything about it. I
>could literally wiggle the sink around and even pick it up slightly.
>Couldn't pick it up too much of course because it was attached by the
>plumbing. But we never seemed to have any repercussions from the lack of
>caulk. I suppose if I had flooded the sink and the countertop got wet,
>there may have been a problem.
>
>So anyway. Sink looks very good now! The caulk I used said it was white
>but it dries clear. Oh and I did repair the enamel. I do know how to do
>that.
>

, "Julie Bove"
> wrote:
>
>>Way back some time ago when I was having problems with the moldy flat
>>bread,
>>someone here said that I might have mold spores in my kitchen. And they
>>might have been right!
>>
>>I knew that when we bought this house, the caulking around the kitchen
>>sink
>>didn't look right. But I'd never had exactly this type of sink before.
>>Looks to be white enamel but the edge is raised up quite a bit. My mom
>>has
>>a sink that looks the same inside but hers has a metal rim around it.
>>So...
>>Whoever caulked this sink seemed to have done it in layers. Many, many
>>layers. Each one glopped on top of the other and the end result was
>>massive. I am not sure how thick it was or how far it extended out from
>>the
>>sink when we moved in. What I did know was that each time I tried to
>>clean
>>around the sink, little chunks of it broke off.
>>
>>Things came to a head a couple of weeks ago when the caulk no longer had
>>just that dingy look that it has had for a long time now but turned black.
>>And I could smell a mildewy aroma coming from what I thought was the sink.
>>After scouting around, I determined that it wasn't the sink itself but the
>>caulk!
>>
>>I spent several days and countless hours trying to remove this stuff. To
>>make matters worse, I think at some points they used grout in there and
>>not
>>just caulk! I'd never seen such a thing. By the time I tried getting it
>>all off of there, the mass of stuff extended about 1/2 of an inch out from
>>the sink and up about a half of an inch. Some came off in small chunks
>>but
>>most in very tiny bits. And under the rim of the sink, it took forever.
>>Teensy tiny bits coming off as I scraped.
>>
>>I did look online to see how to do this. I bought a variety of tools for
>>removal and also used a gel that was supposed to soften the stuff. I had
>>to
>>apply that twice! To make matters worse, on the one side of the sink,
>>there
>>was a chip. Probably happened when they installed it. And instead of
>>repairing the chip, they just covered it with grout or caulk. Not sure
>>which!
>>
>>I was amazed to see how really very small/thin the bead of caulk should
>>be.
>>These people seriously overdid it. And apparently made no attempt to
>>smooth
>>it out or clean it up. I could see layer upon layer of mold as I picked
>>and
>>scraped off the old crud. Apparently each time it got moldy, instead of
>>cleaning it, they just slapped on another layer.
>>
>>So, whoever said there were mold spores in the kitchen, may well have been
>>right!
>>
>>I have never applied caulk before but I think I did it right. Sink looks,
>>much, much better!
>>
>>In our house on Cape Cod, we had a bathroom sink that looked similar in
>>design to this one but there was no caulk around it. I mentioned this to
>>the repair people whenever they came and also when they did our yearly
>>inspection. They made a note of it but never did anything about it. I
>>could literally wiggle the sink around and even pick it up slightly.
>>Couldn't pick it up too much of course because it was attached by the
>>plumbing. But we never seemed to have any repercussions from the lack of
>>caulk. I suppose if I had flooded the sink and the countertop got wet,
>>there may have been a problem.
>>
>>So anyway. Sink looks very good now! The caulk I used said it was white
>>but it dries clear. Oh and I did repair the enamel. I do know how to do
>>that.
>>
Good for you, Julie. Now that sinks are set with the granite countertop over
the sink rim instead of beneath it, I've wondered what sort of foul buildup
would occur. Polly

Polly Esther wrote:
>
> Good for you, Julie. Now that sinks are set with the granite countertop over
> the sink rim instead of beneath it, I've wondered what sort of foul buildup
> would occur. Polly

I would occasionally use an old toothbrush dipped in a strong bleach
solution to clean that from time to time. That's what I use on my top rim
that collects things.

G.

PS - I also like the occasional cool whip, just like Mr.Esther.

"Brooklyn1" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 01:16:59 -0700, "Julie Bove"
> > wrote:
>
> The sink rim should be sealed with Plumber's Putty, not caulking
> compound. You need to remove the sink, clean out all the old
> caulking, and reset it in plumber's putty. If your sink is very old
> you may just want to replace the sink.

What? But everything I read online said caulking! Are you sure? I have no
clue how old the sink is but it couldn't date back prior to 1981 when the
house was built.

"Polly Esther" > wrote in message
...
>
> , "Julie Bove"
>> wrote:
>>
>>>Way back some time ago when I was having problems with the moldy flat
>>>bread,
>>>someone here said that I might have mold spores in my kitchen. And they
>>>might have been right!
>>>
>>>I knew that when we bought this house, the caulking around the kitchen
>>>sink
>>>didn't look right. But I'd never had exactly this type of sink before.
>>>Looks to be white enamel but the edge is raised up quite a bit. My mom
>>>has
>>>a sink that looks the same inside but hers has a metal rim around it.
>>>So...
>>>Whoever caulked this sink seemed to have done it in layers. Many, many
>>>layers. Each one glopped on top of the other and the end result was
>>>massive. I am not sure how thick it was or how far it extended out from
>>>the
>>>sink when we moved in. What I did know was that each time I tried to
>>>clean
>>>around the sink, little chunks of it broke off.
>>>
>>>Things came to a head a couple of weeks ago when the caulk no longer had
>>>just that dingy look that it has had for a long time now but turned
>>>black.
>>>And I could smell a mildewy aroma coming from what I thought was the
>>>sink.
>>>After scouting around, I determined that it wasn't the sink itself but
>>>the
>>>caulk!
>>>
>>>I spent several days and countless hours trying to remove this stuff. To
>>>make matters worse, I think at some points they used grout in there and
>>>not
>>>just caulk! I'd never seen such a thing. By the time I tried getting it
>>>all off of there, the mass of stuff extended about 1/2 of an inch out
>>>from
>>>the sink and up about a half of an inch. Some came off in small chunks
>>>but
>>>most in very tiny bits. And under the rim of the sink, it took forever.
>>>Teensy tiny bits coming off as I scraped.
>>>
>>>I did look online to see how to do this. I bought a variety of tools for
>>>removal and also used a gel that was supposed to soften the stuff. I had
>>>to
>>>apply that twice! To make matters worse, on the one side of the sink,
>>>there
>>>was a chip. Probably happened when they installed it. And instead of
>>>repairing the chip, they just covered it with grout or caulk. Not sure
>>>which!
>>>
>>>I was amazed to see how really very small/thin the bead of caulk should
>>>be.
>>>These people seriously overdid it. And apparently made no attempt to
>>>smooth
>>>it out or clean it up. I could see layer upon layer of mold as I picked
>>>and
>>>scraped off the old crud. Apparently each time it got moldy, instead of
>>>cleaning it, they just slapped on another layer.
>>>
>>>So, whoever said there were mold spores in the kitchen, may well have
>>>been
>>>right!
>>>
>>>I have never applied caulk before but I think I did it right. Sink
>>>looks,
>>>much, much better!
>>>
>>>In our house on Cape Cod, we had a bathroom sink that looked similar in
>>>design to this one but there was no caulk around it. I mentioned this to
>>>the repair people whenever they came and also when they did our yearly
>>>inspection. They made a note of it but never did anything about it. I
>>>could literally wiggle the sink around and even pick it up slightly.
>>>Couldn't pick it up too much of course because it was attached by the
>>>plumbing. But we never seemed to have any repercussions from the lack of
>>>caulk. I suppose if I had flooded the sink and the countertop got wet,
>>>there may have been a problem.
>>>
>>>So anyway. Sink looks very good now! The caulk I used said it was white
>>>but it dries clear. Oh and I did repair the enamel. I do know how to do
>>>that.
>>>
> Good for you, Julie. Now that sinks are set with the granite countertop
> over the sink rim instead of beneath it, I've wondered what sort of foul
> buildup would occur. Polly

Well... That I don't know.

"Gary" > wrote in message ...
> Polly Esther wrote:
>>
>> Good for you, Julie. Now that sinks are set with the granite countertop
>> over
>> the sink rim instead of beneath it, I've wondered what sort of foul
>> buildup
>> would occur. Polly
>
> I would occasionally use an old toothbrush dipped in a strong bleach
> solution to clean that from time to time. That's what I use on my top rim
> that collects things.
>
> G.
>
> PS - I also like the occasional cool whip, just like Mr.Esther.


I use a Q-tip dipped in Clorox to go around it.

Cheri

"Julie Bove" wrote:

>"Brooklyn1"wrote:
>>
>> The sink rim should be sealed with Plumber's Putty, not caulking
>> compound. You need to remove the sink, clean out all the old
>> caulking, and reset it in plumber's putty. If your sink is very old
>> you may just want to replace the sink.
>
>What? But everything I read online said caulking! Are you sure? I have no
>clue how old the sink is but it couldn't date back prior to 1981 when the
>house was built.

That's the first truth you have ever posted... "I have no clue"... you
have no clue about anything.

With all those layers of caulking that sink was reset several times,
always with the incorrect sealant. I don't care what you claim to
have read... I don't believe you, I don't ever believe a word you say,
all you do is flap your gums, you never offer any proof... every new
sink will come with instructions that says to use plumber's putty to
set the sink rim and also to set the drain... more sinks leak because
caulking was used, especially to set the drain. Caulking dries and
crumbles, silicone is very poor at filling voids and makes it
difficult to remove fixtures... plumber's putty easily fills voids and
remains pliable for a very long time, typically longer than the life
of the sink... a hundred years later plumber's putty is still like the
day it was set. Anyone can search <plumber's putty> and will see I am
correct.

On Mar 21, 9:49*am, Brooklyn1 > wrote:
> "Julie Bove" wrote:
> >"Brooklyn1"wrote:
>
> >> The sink rim should be sealed with Plumber's Putty, not caulking
> >> compound. *You need to remove the sink, clean out all the old
> >> caulking, and reset it in plumber's putty. *If your sink is very old
> >> you may just want to replace the sink.
>
> >What? *But everything I read online said caulking! *Are you sure? *I have no
> >clue how old the sink is but it couldn't date back prior to 1981 when the
> >house was built.
>
> That's the first truth you have ever posted... "I have no clue"... you
> have no clue about anything.
>
> With all those layers of caulking that sink was reset several times,
> always with the incorrect sealant. *I don't care what you claim to
> have read... I don't believe you, I don't ever believe a word you say,
> all you do is flap your gums, you never offer any proof... every new
> sink will come with instructions that says to use plumber's putty to
> set the sink rim and also to set the drain... more sinks leak because
> caulking was used, especially to set the drain. *Caulking dries and
> crumbles, silicone is very poor at filling voids and makes it
> difficult to remove fixtures... plumber's putty easily fills voids and
> remains pliable for a very long time, typically longer than the life
> of the sink... a hundred years later plumber's putty is still like the
> day it was set. *Anyone can search <plumber's putty> and will see I am
> correct.

Berating someone must really make you feel like a real man.

In article >,
"Julie Bove" > wrote:

> "Brooklyn1" > wrote in message
> ...
> > On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 01:16:59 -0700, "Julie Bove"
> > > wrote:
> >
> > The sink rim should be sealed with Plumber's Putty, not caulking
> > compound. You need to remove the sink, clean out all the old
> > caulking, and reset it in plumber's putty. If your sink is very old
> > you may just want to replace the sink.
>
> What? But everything I read online said caulking! Are you sure? I have no
> clue how old the sink is but it couldn't date back prior to 1981 when the
> house was built.

because no one in the history of construction ever re-used a sink?

In article >,
Brooklyn1 > wrote:

> >So anyway. Sink looks very good now! The caulk I used said it was white
> >but it dries clear. Oh and I did repair the enamel. I do know how to do
> >that.
> >

that sounds like window/door caulk. what you need to use is
bathroom/kitchen caulk that is mold resistant

but you knew that, didn't you?

"Gary" > wrote in message ...
> Polly Esther wrote:
>>
>> Good for you, Julie. Now that sinks are set with the granite countertop
>> over
>> the sink rim instead of beneath it, I've wondered what sort of foul
>> buildup
>> would occur. Polly
>
> I would occasionally use an old toothbrush dipped in a strong bleach
> solution to clean that from time to time. That's what I use on my top rim
> that collects things.

I did of course have to use bleach on this. But I normally have to avoid it
since it causes me great respiratory problems. Especially when combined
with hot water. Using a toothbrush would only have removed whatever it was
that they put around the sink. The new stuff that I put on is not supposed
to mildew.

"Brooklyn1" > wrote in message
...
> "Julie Bove" wrote:
>
>>"Brooklyn1"wrote:
>>>
>>> The sink rim should be sealed with Plumber's Putty, not caulking
>>> compound. You need to remove the sink, clean out all the old
>>> caulking, and reset it in plumber's putty. If your sink is very old
>>> you may just want to replace the sink.
>>
>>What? But everything I read online said caulking! Are you sure? I have
>>no
>>clue how old the sink is but it couldn't date back prior to 1981 when the
>>house was built.
>
> That's the first truth you have ever posted... "I have no clue"... you
> have no clue about anything.
>
> With all those layers of caulking that sink was reset several times,
> always with the incorrect sealant. I don't care what you claim to
> have read... I don't believe you, I don't ever believe a word you say,
> all you do is flap your gums, you never offer any proof... every new
> sink will come with instructions that says to use plumber's putty to
> set the sink rim and also to set the drain... more sinks leak because
> caulking was used, especially to set the drain. Caulking dries and
> crumbles, silicone is very poor at filling voids and makes it
> difficult to remove fixtures... plumber's putty easily fills voids and
> remains pliable for a very long time, typically longer than the life
> of the sink... a hundred years later plumber's putty is still like the
> day it was set. Anyone can search <plumber's putty> and will see I am
> correct.

I did search. It said that occasionally Plumber's Putty is used for this.
But its real use is around the drain and faucet. Said some plumbers
disagree on this. Caulk is the thing to use. I saw pics of my exact sink
and they used caulk. I do not think the sink is all that old. Grated we
bought the house 9 years ago. But we were told that the sink was new in the
remodel. I didn't think so but I really don't know.

"Sqwertz" > wrote in message
...
> $10 says it starts getting moldy again within 8 months.
>
> -sw

We'll see. If it does, I still have the tools and more caulk.

Sqwertz wrote:
> On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 15:05:42 -0700, Julie Bove wrote:
>
>> "Sqwertz" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> $10 says it starts getting moldy again within 8 months.
>>
>> We'll see. If it does, I still have the tools and more caulk.
>
> The idea here would be to find and fix the source of the mold. not
> fix it every 8 months. Which is apparently what the last dumbass was
> doing.

I have no way of knowing what was used prior. This stuff says it resists
mildew. I can only hope that it will. I am also being a lot more careful
now not to let water stand around the sink. Because I have a garden window
and because I have plants up on the high shelf, I usually use my sprayer to
water them. But now if there is any water, I will wipe it up right away.
Daughter uses the sink for some things. She is not usually the one who
washes dishes though. That would be me. I will just have to be careful.

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 02:25:09 -0700, "Julie Bove"
> wrote:

>Sqwertz wrote:
>> On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 15:05:42 -0700, Julie Bove wrote:
>>
>>> "Sqwertz" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> $10 says it starts getting moldy again within 8 months.
>>>
>>> We'll see. If it does, I still have the tools and more caulk.
>>
>> The idea here would be to find and fix the source of the mold. not
>> fix it every 8 months. Which is apparently what the last dumbass was
>> doing.
>
>I have no way of knowing what was used prior.
>This stuff says it resists mildew.

Probably that tube you got from your OB-GYN.

Ever notice how the Bove never gives any specifics... normal brained
folks would have specified the brand and particular type of caulk,
even offered the URL for that product at the company web site... it's
impossible to believe a word the Bove says.

This is the new stain-free plumber's putty that is safe to use on
natural stone:
http://www.oatey.com/products/putty-...plumbers-putty

"Brooklyn1" > wrote in message
...
> On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 02:25:09 -0700, "Julie Bove"
> > wrote:
>
>>Sqwertz wrote:
>>> On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 15:05:42 -0700, Julie Bove wrote:
>>>
>>>> "Sqwertz" > wrote in message
>>>> ...
>>>>> $10 says it starts getting moldy again within 8 months.
>>>>
>>>> We'll see. If it does, I still have the tools and more caulk.
>>>
>>> The idea here would be to find and fix the source of the mold. not
>>> fix it every 8 months. Which is apparently what the last dumbass was
>>> doing.
>>
>>I have no way of knowing what was used prior.
>>This stuff says it resists mildew.
>
> Probably that tube you got from your OB-GYN.
>
> Ever notice how the Bove never gives any specifics... normal brained
> folks would have specified the brand and particular type of caulk,
> even offered the URL for that product at the company web site... it's
> impossible to believe a word the Bove says.
>
> This is the new stain-free plumber's putty that is safe to use on
> natural stone:
> http://www.oatey.com/products/putty-...plumbers-putty

I bought Dap.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 13:41:43 -0700, "Julie Bove"
> wrote:

>
>"Brooklyn1" > wrote in message
.. .
>> On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 02:25:09 -0700, "Julie Bove"
>> > wrote:
>>
>>>Sqwertz wrote:
>>>> On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 15:05:42 -0700, Julie Bove wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> "Sqwertz" > wrote in message
>>>>> ...
>>>>>> $10 says it starts getting moldy again within 8 months.
>>>>>
>>>>> We'll see. If it does, I still have the tools and more caulk.
>>>>
>>>> The idea here would be to find and fix the source of the mold. not
>>>> fix it every 8 months. Which is apparently what the last dumbass was
>>>> doing.
>>>
>>>I have no way of knowing what was used prior.
>>>This stuff says it resists mildew.
>>
>> Probably that tube you got from your OB-GYN.
>>
>> Ever notice how the Bove never gives any specifics... normal brained
>> folks would have specified the brand and particular type of caulk,
>> even offered the URL for that product at the company web site... it's
>> impossible to believe a word the Bove says.
>>
>> This is the new stain-free plumber's putty that is safe to use on
>> natural stone:
>> http://www.oatey.com/products/putty-...plumbers-putty
>
>I bought Dap.
>
>http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the wrong product for sealing a sink rim... that's for placing
a corner bead where tiles meet a tub, but where a sink meets the
counter top it won't last very long, it'll need to be scraped off and
redone in short order. All you did is use that product to hide the
existing layers of crappy caulking that were put there previously, the
old caulking needs to be completely removed, and for that the sink
needs to be removed. Eventually you will need to remove the sink and
set it properly. Actually there should be no sealant visible at the
sink's edges, when properly sealed with plumber's putty there is no
gap to put caulking. Your sink must look worse than a pig trough, one
can only imagine the rest of your slum.

"Brooklyn1" > wrote in message
...
> On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 13:41:43 -0700, "Julie Bove"
> > wrote:
>
>>
>>"Brooklyn1" > wrote in message
. ..
>>> On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 02:25:09 -0700, "Julie Bove"
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>>>Sqwertz wrote:
>>>>> On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 15:05:42 -0700, Julie Bove wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> "Sqwertz" > wrote in message
>>>>>> ...
>>>>>>> $10 says it starts getting moldy again within 8 months.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> We'll see. If it does, I still have the tools and more caulk.
>>>>>
>>>>> The idea here would be to find and fix the source of the mold. not
>>>>> fix it every 8 months. Which is apparently what the last dumbass was
>>>>> doing.
>>>>
>>>>I have no way of knowing what was used prior.
>>>>This stuff says it resists mildew.
>>>
>>> Probably that tube you got from your OB-GYN.
>>>
>>> Ever notice how the Bove never gives any specifics... normal brained
>>> folks would have specified the brand and particular type of caulk,
>>> even offered the URL for that product at the company web site... it's
>>> impossible to believe a word the Bove says.
>>>
>>> This is the new stain-free plumber's putty that is safe to use on
>>> natural stone:
>>> http://www.oatey.com/products/putty-...plumbers-putty
>>
>>I bought Dap.
>>
>>http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
> That's the wrong product for sealing a sink rim... that's for placing
> a corner bead where tiles meet a tub, but where a sink meets the
> counter top it won't last very long, it'll need to be scraped off and
> redone in short order. All you did is use that product to hide the
> existing layers of crappy caulking that were put there previously, the
> old caulking needs to be completely removed, and for that the sink
> needs to be removed. Eventually you will need to remove the sink and
> set it properly. Actually there should be no sealant visible at the
> sink's edges, when properly sealed with plumber's putty there is no
> gap to put caulking. Your sink must look worse than a pig trough, one
> can only imagine the rest of your slum.

No. I removed every speck of what was there. The sink looks excellent now.
I believe you are wrong on this Sheldon. But... I have a friend who is
from NY. We have discussed plumbing stuff and ya'll do things differently
in NY.

jay******* wrote:
> Brooklyn1 wrote:
>
>> http://www.oatey.com/products/putty-...plumbers-putty
>
>Many faucet sets and drains are set in stone with "old style" oil based
>PP because that's what the plumber had in his tool box. After a time
>the oil bleeds into the stone surface and looks like a mess.
>
>Plumbers putty isn't needed or used by "anyone but you" to set a self
>rimming or under mount sink or lavatory. 100% clear silicone will hold
>up much longer and is much stronger for those applications. On self
>rimming applications it is nearly invisible due to the bevel in the rim.
>In under mount applications using plumbers putty out of the plastic tub
>would be dumb. PP is the perfect choice for bedding faucet sets and
>drains but NOT for setting sinks and lavatories.
>
>jay

You're a LOW IQer without a clue... there is "stainless" plumber's
putty for porous surfaces like stone. Silicone caulking makes too
permanent a bond, making it near impossible to remove a fixture
without destroying the fixture and destroying the stone. You never
went to the web site I posted, ASSHOLE JAY, or you're just another
ILLITERATE JAY *******.

"jay" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> Brooklyn1 > wrote:
>
>> http://www.oatey.com/products/putty-...umbers-putty/s
>> tain-free-plumbers-putty
>
> Many faucet sets and drains are set in stone with "old style" oil based
> PP because that's what the plumber had in his tool box. After a time
> the oil bleeds into the stone surface and looks like a mess.
>
> Plumbers putty isn't needed or used by "anyone but you" to set a self
> rimming or under mount sink or lavatory. 100% clear silicone will hold
> up much longer and is much stronger for those applications. On self
> rimming applications it is nearly invisible due to the bevel in the rim.
> In under mount applications using plumbers putty out of the plastic tub
> would be dumb. PP is the perfect choice for bedding faucet sets and
> drains but NOT for setting sinks and lavatories.
>
> jay

The handyman that I had out yesterday did some work in the kitchen. Now I
have working outlets and a new range hood! Yay! Anyway... He said I did
it right. No worries.

"Brooklyn1" > wrote in message
...
> jay******* wrote:
>> Brooklyn1 wrote:
>>
>>> http://www.oatey.com/products/putty-...plumbers-putty
>>
>>Many faucet sets and drains are set in stone with "old style" oil based
>>PP because that's what the plumber had in his tool box. After a time
>>the oil bleeds into the stone surface and looks like a mess.
>>
>>Plumbers putty isn't needed or used by "anyone but you" to set a self
>>rimming or under mount sink or lavatory. 100% clear silicone will hold
>>up much longer and is much stronger for those applications. On self
>>rimming applications it is nearly invisible due to the bevel in the rim.
>>In under mount applications using plumbers putty out of the plastic tub
>>would be dumb. PP is the perfect choice for bedding faucet sets and
>>drains but NOT for setting sinks and lavatories.
>>
>>jay
>
> You're a LOW IQer without a clue... there is "stainless" plumber's
> putty for porous surfaces like stone. Silicone caulking makes too
> permanent a bond, making it near impossible to remove a fixture
> without destroying the fixture and destroying the stone. You never
> went to the web site I posted, ASSHOLE JAY, or you're just another
> ILLITERATE JAY *******.

Sheldon you just really are wayyy off base on this one. The Silicone does
peel up rather easily.

On 3/27/2013 3:31 AM, Sqwertz wrote:
> AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAaaa! We've all seen Sheldon's 60's 'granny' Formica
> countertops. It spans his whole kitchen.
>
>> >ahahahah..
> Dude needs some serious lamination work in the kitchen. I don't know
> how he can wake up to that puke-yellow pattern every morning.


We need a new counter top/back splash/sink in our kitchen.

This house is 70+ years old and the kitchen cabinets were built in
place. I'd like to keep them. The counter top is old Formica which has
been worn through in some spots and there is a rotten section behind the
sink. It is a somewhat hideous green.

But I look at the worn spots and wonder how many sandwiches have been
made there... how many onions were chopped..... how many meals were
cooked in the past 70+ years. It has character.

This summer I will try to find a way to remove and replace the counter
top without screwing up the cabinets.

George L

On 3/27/2013 9:04 AM, George Leppla wrote:

> This summer I will try to find a way to remove and replace the counter
> top without screwing up the cabinets.

You can put a new layer of formica over the old one. Just a
thought.

nancy

On 3/27/2013 8:48 AM, Nancy Young wrote:
> On 3/27/2013 9:04 AM, George Leppla wrote:
>
>> >This summer I will try to find a way to remove and replace the counter
>> >top without screwing up the cabinets.

> You can put a new layer of formica over the old one. Just a
> thought.

Parts of the counter and back splash have rotted out under the
formica... especially between the sink and back splash. 70 years of
water can take a toll.

George L

On 3/27/2013 10:11 AM, George Leppla wrote:
> On 3/27/2013 8:48 AM, Nancy Young wrote:
>> On 3/27/2013 9:04 AM, George Leppla wrote:
>>
>>> >This summer I will try to find a way to remove and replace the counter
>>> >top without screwing up the cabinets.
>
>> You can put a new layer of formica over the old one. Just a
>> thought.
>
> Parts of the counter and back splash have rotted out under the
> formica... especially between the sink and back splash. 70 years of
> water can take a toll.

Ah, that's a whole 'nother ball of wax. Old houses, not for
the feint of heart.

nancy

In article >,
says...
>
> On 3/27/2013 8:48 AM, Nancy Young wrote:
> > On 3/27/2013 9:04 AM, George Leppla wrote:
> >
> >> >This summer I will try to find a way to remove and replace the counter
> >> >top without screwing up the cabinets.
>
> > You can put a new layer of formica over the old one. Just a
> > thought.
>
> Parts of the counter and back splash have rotted out under the
> formica... especially between the sink and back splash. 70 years of
> water can take a toll.

Get stainless steel sheets cut to size and pre-formed over the front
edge of the formica, and glue them on with appropriate glue ("No more
nails", in UK)
But a good quality SS; the fabricators will advise.

Janet UK

"Sqwertz" > wrote in message
...
> On Tue, 26 Mar 2013 12:38:50 -0500, jay wrote:
>
>> AHAHAHAHAHA !!!! Just try your best not to be so STUPID! Can't you
>> read?? The only plumbing you know a little bitty bit about is hanging
>> between your legs! Normal folks don't remove sinks. They replace the
>> counter and buy a new sink unless they are a cheap ******* like you with
>> the granny formica .. lasts forever crap that lives longer than the
>> sink. DUMBO!
>
> AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAaaa! We've all seen Sheldon's 60's 'granny' Formica
> countertops. It spans his whole kitchen.
>
>> ahahahah..
>
> Dude needs some serious lamination work in the kitchen. I don't know
> how he can wake up to that puke-yellow pattern every morning.
>
> OTOTH, that explains his temperament.
>
> -sw


I love formica.

Cheri

On Wed, 27 Mar 2013 08:04:18 -0500, George Leppla
> wrote:

> This summer I will try to find a way to remove and replace the counter
> top without screwing up the cabinets.

It can be done, George! We replaced tile counters and backsplash with
granite and repainted the cabinet exteriors. Kept the cabinets
because they are semi-custom, all wood and very well made. No reason
to change them because we didn't change the kitchen layout.

In any case, if all that tile (set in mortar) could come up without
ruining the cabinets, you can certainly take off a Formica counter.
Why don't you see if the installers you hire will include removing the
old one in the job? The one thing I've noticed consistently is that
people who really know what they're doing don't use sledge hammers.
Unlike what you see on HGTV, there are other ways to do it.

--
Food is an important part of a balanced diet.

On Wed, 27 Mar 2013 08:32:28 -0700, "Cheri" >
wrote:

> I love formica.

Formica has great new patterns too. I like their stone looks best
http://imagethumbnails.milo.com/035/...77_trimmed.jpg
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...da7409_300.jpg
http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/ma...ba-muestra.jpg


--
Food is an important part of a balanced diet.

Nancy Young wrote:
>George Leppla wrote:
>
>> This summer I will try to find a way to remove and replace the counter
>> top without screwing up the cabinets.
>
>You can put a new layer of formica over the old one. Just a
>thought.

Very doable but only worthwhile if the wood is not rotted.
I think it's a better job to order a new laminate countertop, I don't
think it pays to glue a new piece of laminate over ancient laminate on
an old wooden base.. after so many years there has to be sections with
dry rot, especially around the sink. And very often 70 year old
kitchen cabinets are not worth salvaging... the sink and plumbing is
probably way past its prime too. I don't believe in putting good
money after bad, in most cases the cheap turns out expensive.

On 3/27/2013 1:09 PM, sf wrote:
> On Wed, 27 Mar 2013 08:04:18 -0500, George Leppla
> > wrote:
>
>> This summer I will try to find a way to remove and replace the counter
>> top without screwing up the cabinets.
>
> It can be done, George! We replaced tile counters and backsplash with
> granite and repainted the cabinet exteriors. Kept the cabinets
> because they are semi-custom, all wood and very well made. No reason
> to change them because we didn't change the kitchen layout.
>
> In any case, if all that tile (set in mortar) could come up without
> ruining the cabinets, you can certainly take off a Formica counter.
> Why don't you see if the installers you hire will include removing the
> old one in the job? The one thing I've noticed consistently is that
> people who really know what they're doing don't use sledge hammers.
> Unlike what you see on HGTV, there are other ways to do it.
>

This is a job that I can do myself. I'll need to buy a different saw
than the ones I have, but I've put in counter tops before.

My biggest worry is the backsplash which is about 12" tall and
apparently glued/screwed to the wall behind it. Getting it off without
screwing up the wall behind it might be a problem.

George L

On 3/27/2013 1:30 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> Nancy Young wrote:
>> George Leppla wrote:
>>
>>> This summer I will try to find a way to remove and replace the counter
>>> top without screwing up the cabinets.
>>
>> You can put a new layer of formica over the old one. Just a
>> thought.
>
> Very doable but only worthwhile if the wood is not rotted.
> I think it's a better job to order a new laminate countertop, I don't
> think it pays to glue a new piece of laminate over ancient laminate on
> an old wooden base.. after so many years there has to be sections with
> dry rot, especially around the sink. And very often 70 year old
> kitchen cabinets are not worth salvaging... the sink and plumbing is
> probably way past its prime too. I don't believe in putting good
> money after bad, in most cases the cheap turns out expensive.
>

We will be replacing the sink and faucets... and while I have everything
open, I'll replace whatever old plumbing is within reach. I've already
replaced some of the plumbing earlier when I had to install the ice
maker water supply line.

The cabinets themselves are in pretty good condition... made of solid
wood, built in place.

George L

On Wed, 27 Mar 2013 13:45:04 -0500, George Leppla
> wrote:

>On 3/27/2013 1:30 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>> Nancy Young wrote:
>>> George Leppla wrote:
>>>
>>>> This summer I will try to find a way to remove and replace the counter
>>>> top without screwing up the cabinets.
>>>
>>> You can put a new layer of formica over the old one. Just a
>>> thought.
>>
>> Very doable but only worthwhile if the wood is not rotted.
>> I think it's a better job to order a new laminate countertop, I don't
>> think it pays to glue a new piece of laminate over ancient laminate on
>> an old wooden base.. after so many years there has to be sections with
>> dry rot, especially around the sink. And very often 70 year old
>> kitchen cabinets are not worth salvaging... the sink and plumbing is
>> probably way past its prime too. I don't believe in putting good
>> money after bad, in most cases the cheap turns out expensive.
>>
>
>We will be replacing the sink and faucets... and while I have everything
>open, I'll replace whatever old plumbing is within reach. I've already
>replaced some of the plumbing earlier when I had to install the ice
>maker water supply line.
>
>The cabinets themselves are in pretty good condition... made of solid
>wood, built in place.

Then just get a new countertop... Home Depot will send someone to
measure if needed, or save the price of a house call and measure
yourself. Doesn't much matter if the sheetrock is damaged behind the
backsplash, have them make the new backsplash a bit taller, it will
cover the space occupied by the old one. I got a new countertop from
Home Depot for my last house, went off without a hitch, the backsplash
was inteegrel to thr top with a radius... I ordered new cabinets too,
was easy to install myself. This was some 13 years ago, the
countertop ran like $13/ft... was a rather small galley kitchen, the
entire job cost like $800, the darn solid brass pulls cost a lot. I
also installed a porcelain tile floor, that was pricy even though not
a large area, I bought expensive Dago tile. And it was on a wood
floor over a basement so I first had to lay in a mud floor... was a
lot of work but it turned out well.

On 3/27/2013 11:32 AM, Cheri wrote:
> "Sqwertz" > wrote in message
> ...
>>
>> Dude needs some serious lamination work in the kitchen. I don't know
>> how he can wake up to that puke-yellow pattern every morning.
>>
>> OTOTH, that explains his temperament.
>>
>> -sw
>
>
> I love formica.
>
> Cheri

I'm with you, Cheri. Having formica countertops doesn't bother me a bit.

Jill

On Mar 27, 1:17*pm, sf > wrote:
> On Wed, 27 Mar 2013 08:32:28 -0700, "Cheri" >
> wrote:
>
> > I love formica.
>
> Formica has great new patterns too. *I like their stone looks besthttp://imagethumbnails.milo.com/035/301/377/trimmed/35301495_34531377...http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...andj9807090001...
>
> --
> Food is an important part of a balanced diet.

I have that granite-look Formica in my six-year old remodel. I, too,
really like it. Granite isn't such a "must-have" around here in
ordinary middle class neighborhoods.

N.

On 3/27/2013 9:19 PM, Nancy2 wrote:
> On Mar 27, 1:17 pm, sf > wrote:
>> On Wed, 27 Mar 2013 08:32:28 -0700, "Cheri" >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I love formica.
>>
>> Formica has great new patterns too. I like their stone looks besthttp://imagethumbnails.milo.com/035/301/377/trimmed/35301495_34531377...http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...andj9807090001...
>>
>> --
>> Food is an important part of a balanced diet.
>
> I have that granite-look Formica in my six-year old remodel. I, too,
> really like it. Granite isn't such a "must-have" around here in
> ordinary middle class neighborhoods.
>
> N.
>
I'm not sure it's a "must have" in any neighborhood Oh sure, if
you've got a million dollar home people are going to expect the moon.
But having granite, marble, etc. is purely asthetic. It doesn't make
your food taste any better. Seems to me granite needs to be sealed
periodically, so more maintenance required for something already pricy.

Jill

Nancy2 wrote:
> On Mar 27, 1:17 pm, sf > wrote:
>> On Wed, 27 Mar 2013 08:32:28 -0700, "Cheri" >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I love formica.
>>
>> Formica has great new patterns too. I like their stone looks
>> besthttp://imagethumbnails.milo.com/035/301/377/trimmed/35301495_34531377...http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...andj9807090001...
>>
>> --
>> Food is an important part of a balanced diet.
>
> I have that granite-look Formica in my six-year old remodel. I, too,
> really like it. Granite isn't such a "must-have" around here in
> ordinary middle class neighborhoods.
>
> N.

People in this area are really big into granite but it would look stupid in
my dinky little kitchen. I did see granite in two small kitchens when we
were house hunting. If I were going to design a large kitchen, I would
probably do an island with quartz or granite on it but still have formica in
the rest of it. I think it would be nice to have a variety of working
spaces.

jmcquown wrote:
> On 3/27/2013 9:19 PM, Nancy2 wrote:
>> On Mar 27, 1:17 pm, sf > wrote:
>>> On Wed, 27 Mar 2013 08:32:28 -0700, "Cheri" >
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I love formica.
>>>
>>> Formica has great new patterns too. I like their stone looks
>>> besthttp://imagethumbnails.milo.com/035/301/377/trimmed/35301495_34531377...http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...andj9807090001...
>>>
>>> --
>>> Food is an important part of a balanced diet.
>>
>> I have that granite-look Formica in my six-year old remodel. I, too,
>> really like it. Granite isn't such a "must-have" around here in
>> ordinary middle class neighborhoods.
>>
>> N.
>>
> I'm not sure it's a "must have" in any neighborhood Oh sure, if
> you've got a million dollar home people are going to expect the moon.
> But having granite, marble, etc. is purely asthetic. It doesn't make
> your food taste any better. Seems to me granite needs to be sealed
> periodically, so more maintenance required for something already
> pricy.

But in some places a million dollar home is kind of standard. Our house was
one of the cheapest that we found when house hunting. I think there
actually was only one that was cheaper. It was nice but really too small
for us. Would have worked better for a couple that didn't cook much. We
paid about a quarter of a million for it. Sad but true. Half a million
will get you what is one of the standard "middle class" homes in this area.
But the newest houses they are building are more like three quarters of a
million.

On Wed, 27 Mar 2013 22:37:04 -0400, jmcquown >
wrote:

> I'm not sure it's a "must have" in any neighborhood Oh sure, if
> you've got a million dollar home people are going to expect the moon.
> But having granite, marble, etc. is purely asthetic. It doesn't make
> your food taste any better. Seems to me granite needs to be sealed
> periodically, so more maintenance required for something already pricy.

If you don't go with custom everything, granite isn't pricey at all...
and I haven't sealed mine yet. It's still just as I bought it who
knows how many years ago and I used diluted ammonia to clean it for
most of that time <shrug> I've changed my ways now, but it doesn't
undo what I did and I haven't "sealed" it yet or done any so called
maintenance.

--
Food is an important part of a balanced diet.