Pearl F. Buck wrote:
> On 11/27/2013 9:13 AM, pltrgyst wrote:
> > On 11/26/2013 8:23 PM, jmcquown wrote:
> > > This particular circuit controls (oddly) the overhead lights in
> > > the master bathroom where the tub and toilet are AND all the
> > > electrical outlets in the garage. Where the freezer is....
> >
> > The Virginia townhouse we just moved out of had this same odd
> > arrangement -- the garage outlets were on the same circuit as the
> > master bathroom, up on the third floor. When something kicked the
> > garage refrigerator off, the first thing to do was to check the
> > GFCI outlet in the upstairs bathroom.
> >
> > -- Larry
> >
> A frig should never be on a gfi circuit.

He didn't say it was. He said it was on the same circuit [breaker] as a
GFCI outlet.


--

Reply in group, but if emailing remove the last word.

On 11/29/2013 3:15 PM, Tom Del Rosso wrote:
> Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>> On 11/27/2013 9:13 AM, pltrgyst wrote:
>>> On 11/26/2013 8:23 PM, jmcquown wrote:
>>>> This particular circuit controls (oddly) the overhead lights in
>>>> the master bathroom where the tub and toilet are AND all the
>>>> electrical outlets in the garage. Where the freezer is....
>>>
>>> The Virginia townhouse we just moved out of had this same odd
>>> arrangement -- the garage outlets were on the same circuit as the
>>> master bathroom, up on the third floor. When something kicked the
>>> garage refrigerator off, the first thing to do was to check the
>>> GFCI outlet in the upstairs bathroom.
>>>
>>> -- Larry
>>>
>> A frig should never be on a gfi circuit.
>
> He didn't say it was. He said it was on the same circuit [breaker] as a
> GFCI outlet.

That would put it on the GFCI as all the other outlets are downstream as
they all must be protected. Code requires garages and bathrooms to be
GFCI protected and it can be done with a breaker or outlet upstream..

On 11/28/2013 12:14 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 00:15:27 -0800, "Paul M. Cook" >
> wrote:
>
>>
>> "Pearl F. Buck" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> On 11/27/2013 12:48 PM, Paul M. Cook wrote:
>>>> "jmcquown" > wrote in message
>>>> ...
>>>>> Just venting a bit. Ignore at will.
>>>>>
>>>>> A couple of months ago one of the breakers on the main electrical box
>>>>> tripped. I thought I'd reset it but it took several tries before it
>>>>> actually "took".
>>>>>
>>>>> This particular circuit controls (oddly) the overhead lights in the
>>>>> master
>>>>> bathroom where the tub and toilet are AND all the electrical outlets in
>>>>> the garage. Where the freezer is. That last time this happened I
>>>>> finally
>>>>> got it reset. <whew> In the meantime, I'd moved as much frozen food
>>>>> into
>>>>> the freezer in the side-by-side fridge as I could fit. I stored some
>>>>> things in the neighbor's freezer.
>>>>>
>>>>> This time, I've moved what I can fit to the fridge/freezer already.
>>>>> Because this time, that breaker absolutely will *not* reset. I've tried
>>>>> at least 20 times now. I think the breaker switch itself needs to be
>>>>> replaced.
>>>>>
>>>>> I've got a home warranty so I put in a service request. And left a
>>>>> message with the electricians they have a contract with. Here we are,
>>>>> two
>>>>> days before Thanksgiving. Even if I'm not cooking for company I stand
>>>>> to
>>>>> lose a goodly amount of food. I sure hope they can get someone out here
>>>>> tomorrow. I *know* this electrical company isn't going to be working on
>>>>> Thanksgiving. Possibly not even the day after. If they can't get to it
>>>>> tomorrow I'll be hunting down an electrican who can. I'm not sure I'll
>>>>> be
>>>>> able to find one.
>>>>>
>>>>> The good news is, I procrastinated about going to the grocery store
>>>>> yesterday. And today it was raining like mad. I'm not fond of
>>>>> loading
>>>>> a lot of groceries into the car when it's pouring down rain. So at
>>>>> least
>>>>> I won't lose as much food as I might if I'd already gone to Publix.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Go get a extension cord. Plug the fridge into a working outlet.
>>>>
>>>> Voila, problem over.
>>>
>>> You should _never_ use an extension cord on a fridge, never...
>>
>> Why not? Get a heavy duty extension cord. Not the flimsy ones made for a
>> lamp.
>
> A heavy duty extension cord is fine temporarilly but still use one as
> short as possible, and make sure it's plugged into a 20A circuit
> that's not being shared or the result can be worse.
>
Emphasis on "temporary", yes.

On 11/28/2013 12:06 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> If a fire occurs with that set up of a
> freezer sharing a bathroom GFCI outlet it can and likely will void the
> homeowners policy. I strongly suggest having a licenced electrician
> install a dedicated circuit for that freezer ASAP.

Sound advice.

On 11/27/2013 7:39 PM, Earl wrote:
> If you follow my advise, plug it into an outlet in the house that is not
> in the kitchen or bathroom and you will be fine.
>
> Earl
>
A long extension cord is NOT a good idea.

The heat generated is greater he longer the cord.

You could be coaching an unsafe situation.

On 11/26/2013 7:56 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> Get a heavy duty extension cord and plug the freezer into a different
> circuit. Freezers don't take all that much power so most receptacle
> will do as long as it is on another breaker..

Well...no, you're wrong:

http://www.ehow.com/info_12193777_li...ppliances.html

...most refrigerators need 20 amps

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/ins...-chest-freezer

You will need a circuit breaker which supports the number of amps you
will be drawing for your freezer. In most cases if it is a 220V you will
want a 30-amp breaker. An 110V will usually require a 15- or 20-amp
breaker. This information can be found in the manual supplied with the
freezer.

On 11/28/2013 1:15 AM, Paul M. Cook wrote:
> "Pearl F. Buck" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On 11/27/2013 12:48 PM, Paul M. Cook wrote:
>>> "jmcquown" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> Just venting a bit. Ignore at will.
>>>>
>>>> A couple of months ago one of the breakers on the main electrical box
>>>> tripped. I thought I'd reset it but it took several tries before it
>>>> actually "took".
>>>>
>>>> This particular circuit controls (oddly) the overhead lights in the
>>>> master
>>>> bathroom where the tub and toilet are AND all the electrical outlets in
>>>> the garage. Where the freezer is. That last time this happened I
>>>> finally
>>>> got it reset. <whew> In the meantime, I'd moved as much frozen food
>>>> into
>>>> the freezer in the side-by-side fridge as I could fit. I stored some
>>>> things in the neighbor's freezer.
>>>>
>>>> This time, I've moved what I can fit to the fridge/freezer already.
>>>> Because this time, that breaker absolutely will *not* reset. I've tried
>>>> at least 20 times now. I think the breaker switch itself needs to be
>>>> replaced.
>>>>
>>>> I've got a home warranty so I put in a service request. And left a
>>>> message with the electricians they have a contract with. Here we are,
>>>> two
>>>> days before Thanksgiving. Even if I'm not cooking for company I stand
>>>> to
>>>> lose a goodly amount of food. I sure hope they can get someone out here
>>>> tomorrow. I *know* this electrical company isn't going to be working on
>>>> Thanksgiving. Possibly not even the day after. If they can't get to it
>>>> tomorrow I'll be hunting down an electrican who can. I'm not sure I'll
>>>> be
>>>> able to find one.
>>>>
>>>> The good news is, I procrastinated about going to the grocery store
>>>> yesterday. And today it was raining like mad. I'm not fond of
>>>> loading
>>>> a lot of groceries into the car when it's pouring down rain. So at
>>>> least
>>>> I won't lose as much food as I might if I'd already gone to Publix.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Go get a extension cord. Plug the fridge into a working outlet.
>>>
>>> Voila, problem over.
>>
>> You should _never_ use an extension cord on a fridge, never...
>
> Why not?

Risk of fire.

> Get a heavy duty extension cord. Not the flimsy ones made for a
> lamp.

For temporary use only, and a short as possible, commercial use rated.

On 11/27/2013 5:50 PM, jmcquown wrote:
> Long story short, the manager/owner of the electrical company thinks the
> real problem might be in those old overhead lights in the bathroom.
>
> Jill


Bad advice.

On 11/26/2013 9:07 PM, jmcquown wrote:
> This one sounds like it's snapping to but it didn't until I reset it
> several times. This time it won't set at all. It goes right back to
> 'tripped'.

It has failed and been rendered inoperable, not a safe situation.

Kill the breaker for this circuit and get an electrician who knows what
he is doing.

On 11/27/2013 7:47 AM, Helpful person wrote:
> As
> stated, when running, freezers do not need a
> high amperage.

Try again:

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/ins...-chest-freezer

If the freezer runs on 110V then you will need 12 by 2 electrical wiring
and a 110 V outlet. If it uses 220V then you will need 12 by 3
electrical wiring and a 220V outlet. You will need a circuit breaker
which supports the number of amps you will be drawing for your freezer.
In most cases if it is a 220V you will want a 30-amp breaker. An 110V
will usually require a 15- or 20-amp breaker. This information can be
found in the manual supplied with the freezer.

On 11/29/2013 1:15 PM, Tom Del Rosso wrote:
> Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>> On 11/27/2013 9:13 AM, pltrgyst wrote:
>>> On 11/26/2013 8:23 PM, jmcquown wrote:
>>>> This particular circuit controls (oddly) the overhead lights in
>>>> the master bathroom where the tub and toilet are AND all the
>>>> electrical outlets in the garage. Where the freezer is....
>>>
>>> The Virginia townhouse we just moved out of had this same odd
>>> arrangement -- the garage outlets were on the same circuit as the
>>> master bathroom, up on the third floor. When something kicked the
>>> garage refrigerator off, the first thing to do was to check the
>>> GFCI outlet in the upstairs bathroom.
>>>
>>> -- Larry
>>>
>> A frig should never be on a gfi circuit.
>
> He didn't say it was. He said it was on the same circuit [breaker] as a
> GFCI outlet.
>
>
That is functionally the same thing.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Residual-current_device

In the United States and Canada, a residual-current device is most
commonly known as a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI), Ground
Fault Interrupter (GFI) or an Appliance Leakage Current Interrupter
(ALCI). Ground Fault Condition is defined as: An unintentional,
electrically conducting connection between an ungrounded conductor of an
electrical circuit and the normally non-current-carrying conductors,
metallic enclosures, metallic raceways, metallic equipment or earth.

On 11/29/2013 1:50 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 11/29/2013 3:15 PM, Tom Del Rosso wrote:
>> Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>>> On 11/27/2013 9:13 AM, pltrgyst wrote:
>>>> On 11/26/2013 8:23 PM, jmcquown wrote:
>>>>> This particular circuit controls (oddly) the overhead lights in
>>>>> the master bathroom where the tub and toilet are AND all the
>>>>> electrical outlets in the garage. Where the freezer is....
>>>>
>>>> The Virginia townhouse we just moved out of had this same odd
>>>> arrangement -- the garage outlets were on the same circuit as the
>>>> master bathroom, up on the third floor. When something kicked the
>>>> garage refrigerator off, the first thing to do was to check the
>>>> GFCI outlet in the upstairs bathroom.
>>>>
>>>> -- Larry
>>>>
>>> A frig should never be on a gfi circuit.
>>
>> He didn't say it was. He said it was on the same circuit [breaker] as a
>> GFCI outlet.
>
> That would put it on the GFCI as all the other outlets are downstream as
> they all must be protected. Code requires garages and bathrooms to be
> GFCI protected and it can be done with a breaker or outlet upstream..
>
Thank you.

On 11/28/2013 12:38 PM, notbob wrote:
> On 2013-11-28, pltrgyst > wrote:
>> On 11/28/13 1:28 AM, T wrote:
>>
>>> Circuit breakers do wear over time. It's a spring mechanism in there
>>> that over a span of time will lose strenghth and not be able to hold the
>>> contacts together.
>>
>> Ummm, the spring doesn't hold the contacts together. It drives them
>> apart when the breaker trips.
>
> That's what ya' get when looking for electrical advice in a cooking
> group.
>
> nb
>
Heh. I didn't ask for electrical advice. The first sentence in my post
indicated I was just venting. I was irritated and concerned about
losing some food. Especially since I go to all the trouble to package
up leftovers for future meals.

Jill

jmcquown wrote:
>notbob wrote:
>>pltrgyst wrote:
>>>T wrote:
>>>
>>>> Circuit breakers do wear over time. It's a spring mechanism in there
>>>> that over a span of time will lose strenghth and not be able to hold the
>>>> contacts together.
>>>
>>> Ummm, the spring doesn't hold the contacts together. It drives them
>>> apart when the breaker trips.
>>
>> That's what ya' get when looking for electrical advice in a cooking
>> group.
>>
>Heh. I didn't ask for electrical advice. The first sentence in my post
>indicated I was just venting.

If you weren't interested in reciving advice then WTF did you post
your dillema? DUH

On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 14:02:02 -0700, "Pearl F. Buck"
> wrote:

>On 11/26/2013 7:56 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> Get a heavy duty extension cord and plug the freezer into a different
>> circuit. Freezers don't take all that much power so most receptacle
>> will do as long as it is on another breaker..
>
>Well...no, you're wrong:
>
>http://www.ehow.com/info_12193777_li...ppliances.html
>
>..most refrigerators need 20 amps
>
>http://www.doityourself.com/stry/ins...-chest-freezer
>
>You will need a circuit breaker which supports the number of amps you
>will be drawing for your freezer. In most cases if it is a 220V you will
>want a 30-amp breaker. An 110V will usually require a 15- or 20-amp
>breaker. This information can be found in the manual supplied with the
>freezer.
The guy you are quoting doesn't know much about electricity. If you
are selecting a freezer and your choice is between 120V and a 240V,
the 240V will use less amps (half) not more.

"Brooklyn1" > wrote in message
...
> jmcquown wrote:
>>notbob wrote:
>>>pltrgyst wrote:
>>>>T wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Circuit breakers do wear over time. It's a spring mechanism in there
>>>>> that over a span of time will lose strenghth and not be able to hold
>>>>> the
>>>>> contacts together.
>>>>
>>>> Ummm, the spring doesn't hold the contacts together. It drives them
>>>> apart when the breaker trips.
>>>
>>> That's what ya' get when looking for electrical advice in a cooking
>>> group.
>>>
>>Heh. I didn't ask for electrical advice. The first sentence in my post
>>indicated I was just venting.
>
> If you weren't interested in reciving advice then WTF did you post
> your dillema? DUH

As she just said, she was venting at the possibility of losing food from
her freezer! I would be venting too

--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

On 11/29/2013 6:18 PM, Ophelia wrote:
>
>
> "Brooklyn1" > wrote in message
> ...
>> jmcquown wrote:
>>> notbob wrote:
>>>> pltrgyst wrote:
>>>>> T wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Circuit breakers do wear over time. It's a spring mechanism in there
>>>>>> that over a span of time will lose strenghth and not be able to
>>>>>> hold the
>>>>>> contacts together.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ummm, the spring doesn't hold the contacts together. It drives them
>>>>> apart when the breaker trips.
>>>>
>>>> That's what ya' get when looking for electrical advice in a cooking
>>>> group.
>>>>
>>> Heh. I didn't ask for electrical advice. The first sentence in my post
>>> indicated I was just venting.
>>
>> If you weren't interested in reciving advice then WTF did you post
>> your dillema? DUH
>
> As she just said, she was venting at the possibility of losing food
> from her freezer! I would be venting too
>
Exactly. If I'd wanted actual electrical advice I'd have asked "is
anyone here an electrician?". Or maybe found an electrical newsgroup.
LOL Even if someone here *is* an electrician, it's not as if they could
just drive on over and help me fix the problem. Even if I was a DIY'r
(do-it-yourselfer), I know better than to mess with electricity.

Jill

On Tuesday, November 26, 2013 10:14:31 PM UTC-6, dsi1 wrote:

>
> Maybe you could duct tape it on to the on position. I've had this
>
> happen. It means that the breaker in the box is broken.
>
And those of you with fuses, the next time one burns out, pennies are
cheaper than fuses.

Breakers and fuses are there for a reason.

--Bryan sex+

On 11/29/2013 4:02 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
> On 11/26/2013 7:56 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> Get a heavy duty extension cord and plug the freezer into a different
>> circuit. Freezers don't take all that much power so most receptacle
>> will do as long as it is on another breaker..
>
> Well...no, you're wrong:
>
> http://www.ehow.com/info_12193777_li...ppliances.html
>
>
> ..most refrigerators need 20 amps

That was probably correct 30 years ago, but not today
http://www.whirlpool.com/digitalasse...ruction_EN.pdf

From the Whirlpool Freezer manual, page 4
A 115 Volt, 60 Hz., AC only 15- or 20-amp fused, grounded
electrical supply is required. It is recommended that a separate
circuit serving only your refrigerator and a separate circuit serving
only your freezer be provided.


>
> http://www.doityourself.com/stry/ins...-chest-freezer
>
> You will need a circuit breaker which supports the number of amps you
> will be drawing for your freezer. In most cases if it is a 220V you will
> want a 30-amp breaker. An 110V will usually require a 15- or 20-amp
> breaker. This information can be found in the manual supplied with the
> freezer.

Wow, that information is waaaaay off. Double the volts, half the amps.
Perhaps a large commercial freezer, bit any home freezer is 115 volts
and not that much power is needed. Note also, it contradicts what you
said above about using a 15A breaker.

On 11/29/2013 3:58 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
> On 11/27/2013 7:39 PM, Earl wrote:
>> If you follow my advise, plug it into an outlet in the house that is not
>> in the kitchen or bathroom and you will be fine.
>>
>> Earl
>>
> A long extension cord is NOT a good idea.
>
> The heat generated is greater he longer the cord.
>
> You could be coaching an unsafe situation.

Depends on the cord. The wiring in the wall may be 12 ga, but could be
14 ga. so a 12 ga cord is fine. Freezers really don't take much power
these days. You do not want the type of cord made for a lamp. There
are specific cords available for appliances.

Ed Pawlowski > wrote:
> On 11/29/2013 3:58 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>> On 11/27/2013 7:39 PM, Earl wrote:
>>> If you follow my advise, plug it into an outlet in the house that is not
>>> in the kitchen or bathroom and you will be fine.
>>>
>>> Earl
>>>
>> A long extension cord is NOT a good idea.
>>
>> The heat generated is greater he longer the cord.
>>
>> You could be coaching an unsafe situation.
>
> Depends on the cord. The wiring in the wall may be 12 ga, but could be
> 14 ga. so a 12 ga cord is fine. Freezers really don't take much power
> these days. You do not want the type of cord made for a lamp. There are
> specific cords available for appliances.

They take less power, but still need power. The running current might only
be 2 amps, startup, less than 10 amps. The trick part is defrost. Older
fridges might be about 12-13 amps. Newer ones seem to be using less heater
power, some about 1000 watts. A good 14 gauge cord should be fine for all.
Biggest problem is heat generated in the extension cords connectors.

Greg

On 2013-11-30, gregz > wrote:
> be 2 amps, startup, less than 10 amps. The trick part is defrost. Older
> fridges might be about 12-13 amps. Newer ones seem to be using less heater
> power, some about 1000 watts.

????

I've resurrected a couple older fridges. No heater. Defrost was
little fan motor not much bigger than a computer muffin fan, which
turned on fer 1/2 hr every day while refrigeration system was
completely shut off. Certainly nothing the took even .5A. What are
you talking about? Commercial walk-ins?

nb

"notbob" > wrote in message
...
> On 2013-11-30, gregz > wrote:
>> be 2 amps, startup, less than 10 amps. The trick part is defrost. Older
>> fridges might be about 12-13 amps. Newer ones seem to be using less
>> heater
>> power, some about 1000 watts.
>
> ????
>
> I've resurrected a couple older fridges. No heater. Defrost was
> little fan motor not much bigger than a computer muffin fan, which
> turned on fer 1/2 hr every day while refrigeration system was
> completely shut off. Certainly nothing the took even .5A. What are
> you talking about? Commercial walk-ins?
>
> nb

I have seen home fridges with heater defrost. I thought that was the norm.

On 11/29/2013 4:11 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
> On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 14:02:02 -0700, "Pearl F. Buck"
> > wrote:
>
>> On 11/26/2013 7:56 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>> Get a heavy duty extension cord and plug the freezer into a different
>>> circuit. Freezers don't take all that much power so most receptacle
>>> will do as long as it is on another breaker..
>>
>> Well...no, you're wrong:
>>
>> http://www.ehow.com/info_12193777_li...ppliances.html
>>
>> ..most refrigerators need 20 amps
>>
>> http://www.doityourself.com/stry/ins...-chest-freezer
>>
>> You will need a circuit breaker which supports the number of amps you
>> will be drawing for your freezer. In most cases if it is a 220V you will
>> want a 30-amp breaker. An 110V will usually require a 15- or 20-amp
>> breaker. This information can be found in the manual supplied with the
>> freezer.
> The guy you are quoting doesn't know much about electricity. If you
> are selecting a freezer and your choice is between 120V and a 240V,
> the 240V will use less amps (half) not more.
>
They must have reversed the numbers, your correction is on the money.

On 11/29/2013 5:25 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 11/29/2013 4:02 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>> On 11/26/2013 7:56 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>> Get a heavy duty extension cord and plug the freezer into a different
>>> circuit. Freezers don't take all that much power so most receptacle
>>> will do as long as it is on another breaker..
>>
>> Well...no, you're wrong:
>>
>> http://www.ehow.com/info_12193777_li...ppliances.html
>>
>>
>>
>> ..most refrigerators need 20 amps
>
> That was probably correct 30 years ago, but not today
> http://www.whirlpool.com/digitalasse...ruction_EN.pdf
>
>
> From the Whirlpool Freezer manual, page 4
> A 115 Volt, 60 Hz., AC only 15- or 20-amp fused, grounded
> electrical supply is required. It is recommended that a separate
> circuit serving only your refrigerator and a separate circuit serving
> only your freezer be provided.
>
>
>>
>> http://www.doityourself.com/stry/ins...-chest-freezer
>>
>> You will need a circuit breaker which supports the number of amps you
>> will be drawing for your freezer. In most cases if it is a 220V you will
>> want a 30-amp breaker. An 110V will usually require a 15- or 20-amp
>> breaker. This information can be found in the manual supplied with the
>> freezer.
>
> Wow, that information is waaaaay off. Double the volts, half the amps.

They obviously reversed the numbers, yes.

> Perhaps a large commercial freezer, bit any home freezer is 115 volts
> and not that much power is needed. Note also, it contradicts what you
> said above about using a 15A breaker.

http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodin...7H_0911_EN.pdf

Minimum Circuit Required (Amps)

15

On 11/29/2013 5:40 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 11/29/2013 3:58 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>> On 11/27/2013 7:39 PM, Earl wrote:
>>> If you follow my advise, plug it into an outlet in the house that is not
>>> in the kitchen or bathroom and you will be fine.
>>>
>>> Earl
>>>
>> A long extension cord is NOT a good idea.
>>
>> The heat generated is greater he longer the cord.
>>
>> You could be coaching an unsafe situation.
>
> Depends on the cord. The wiring in the wall may be 12 ga, but could be
> 14 ga. so a 12 ga cord is fine. Freezers really don't take much power
> these days.

But they cycle on and off and that creates peak loads.

> You do not want the type of cord made for a lamp. There
> are specific cords available for appliances.

And there is a reason for that, isn't there?

http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-...707308-9863430

On 11/29/2013 9:25 PM, gregz wrote:
> Ed Pawlowski > wrote:
>> On 11/29/2013 3:58 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>>> On 11/27/2013 7:39 PM, Earl wrote:
>>>> If you follow my advise, plug it into an outlet in the house that is not
>>>> in the kitchen or bathroom and you will be fine.
>>>>
>>>> Earl
>>>>
>>> A long extension cord is NOT a good idea.
>>>
>>> The heat generated is greater he longer the cord.
>>>
>>> You could be coaching an unsafe situation.
>>
>> Depends on the cord. The wiring in the wall may be 12 ga, but could be
>> 14 ga. so a 12 ga cord is fine. Freezers really don't take much power
>> these days. You do not want the type of cord made for a lamp. There are
>> specific cords available for appliances.
>
> They take less power, but still need power. The running current might only
> be 2 amps, startup, less than 10 amps. The trick part is defrost. Older
> fridges might be about 12-13 amps. Newer ones seem to be using less heater
> power, some about 1000 watts. A good 14 gauge cord should be fine for all.
> Biggest problem is heat generated in the extension cords connectors.
>
> Greg
>
http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-...707308-9863430

(but only for temporary use)

On 11/30/2013 1:10 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:

>>
> http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-...707308-9863430
>
>

You can get 12 gauge too if needed.


> (but only for temporary use)

How long is temporary? My freezer has temporarily been on an extension
cord for about 20 years now. I may actually move it next year though to
do some remodeling. That makes it temporary.

"Ed Pawlowski" > wrote in message
...
> On 11/30/2013 1:10 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>
>>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-...707308-9863430
>>
>>
>
> You can get 12 gauge too if needed.
>
>
>> (but only for temporary use)
>
> How long is temporary? My freezer has temporarily been on an extension
> cord for about 20 years now. I may actually move it next year though to
> do some remodeling. That makes it temporary.

lol

--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

On 11/30/2013 12:54 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 11/30/2013 1:10 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>
>>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-...707308-9863430
>>
>>
>>
>
> You can get 12 gauge too if needed.

Yes sir.

>
>> (but only for temporary use)
>
> How long is temporary? My freezer has temporarily been on an extension
> cord for about 20 years now. I may actually move it next year though to
> do some remodeling. That makes it temporary.

Wow, that is really dangerous, you've been lucky indeed.

On 11/30/2013 4:11 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
> On 11/30/2013 12:54 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 11/30/2013 1:10 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>> http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-...707308-9863430
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> You can get 12 gauge too if needed.
>
> Yes sir.
>
>>
>>> (but only for temporary use)
>>
>> How long is temporary? My freezer has temporarily been on an extension
>> cord for about 20 years now. I may actually move it next year though to
>> do some remodeling. That makes it temporary.
>
> Wow, that is really dangerous, you've been lucky indeed.
>

Short cord, proper size. It is heavier than the cord on the freezer itself.

"Ed Pawlowski" > wrote in message
...
> On 11/30/2013 4:11 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>> On 11/30/2013 12:54 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>> On 11/30/2013 1:10 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>>>
>>>>>
>>>> http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-...707308-9863430
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> You can get 12 gauge too if needed.
>>
>> Yes sir.
>>
>>>
>>>> (but only for temporary use)
>>>
>>> How long is temporary? My freezer has temporarily been on an extension
>>> cord for about 20 years now. I may actually move it next year though to
>>> do some remodeling. That makes it temporary.
>>
>> Wow, that is really dangerous, you've been lucky indeed.
>>
>
> Short cord, proper size. It is heavier than the cord on the freezer
> itself.
>

it is still a tripping hazard. You have been lucky!

On 11/30/2013 2:55 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 11/30/2013 4:11 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>> On 11/30/2013 12:54 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>> On 11/30/2013 1:10 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>>>
>>>>>
>>>> http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-...707308-9863430
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> You can get 12 gauge too if needed.
>>
>> Yes sir.
>>
>>>
>>>> (but only for temporary use)
>>>
>>> How long is temporary? My freezer has temporarily been on an extension
>>> cord for about 20 years now. I may actually move it next year though to
>>> do some remodeling. That makes it temporary.
>>
>> Wow, that is really dangerous, you've been lucky indeed.
>>
>
> Short cord, proper size. It is heavier than the cord on the freezer
> itself.
>

Understood, I hope others will pay attention to that sizing and not just
use what they have.

Also a dedicated hard wired circuit would be preferable.

On 11/30/2013 5:03 PM, Pico Rico wrote:

>> Short cord, proper size. It is heavier than the cord on the freezer
>> itself.
>>
>
> it is still a tripping hazard. You have been lucky!
>
>

Please explain how it is a tripping hazard. You have no idea where the
cord is. At the low point it is 3' off the ground and on a wall behind
a table.

Sorry, no jackpot winner this time!

"Pearl F. Buck" > wrote:
> On 11/29/2013 9:25 PM, gregz wrote:
>> Ed Pawlowski > wrote:
>>> On 11/29/2013 3:58 PM, Pearl F. Buck wrote:
>>>> On 11/27/2013 7:39 PM, Earl wrote:
>>>>> If you follow my advise, plug it into an outlet in the house that is not
>>>>> in the kitchen or bathroom and you will be fine.
>>>>>
>>>>> Earl
>>>>>
>>>> A long extension cord is NOT a good idea.
>>>>
>>>> The heat generated is greater he longer the cord.
>>>>
>>>> You could be coaching an unsafe situation.
>>>
>>> Depends on the cord. The wiring in the wall may be 12 ga, but could be
>>> 14 ga. so a 12 ga cord is fine. Freezers really don't take much power
>>> these days. You do not want the type of cord made for a lamp. There are
>>> specific cords available for appliances.
>>
>> They take less power, but still need power. The running current might only
>> be 2 amps, startup, less than 10 amps. The trick part is defrost. Older
>> fridges might be about 12-13 amps. Newer ones seem to be using less heater
>> power, some about 1000 watts. A good 14 gauge cord should be fine for all.
>> Biggest problem is heat generated in the extension cords connectors.
>>
>> Greg
>>
> http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-...707308-9863430
>
> (but only for temporary use)

50 foot would be too long. Likely the box to outlet could already be many
feet. I would use 12 ga.

Greg

"Ed Pawlowski" > wrote in message
...
> On 11/30/2013 5:03 PM, Pico Rico wrote:
>
>>> Short cord, proper size. It is heavier than the cord on the freezer
>>> itself.
>>>
>>
>> it is still a tripping hazard. You have been lucky!
>>
>>
>
> Please explain how it is a tripping hazard. You have no idea where the
> cord is. At the low point it is 3' off the ground and on a wall behind a
> table.
>
> Sorry, no jackpot winner this time!

I am being facetious, in response to the others who say a cord "must" be a
hazard.

On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 20:37:15 -0800, "Pico Rico"
> wrote:

>
>"Ed Pawlowski" > wrote in message
...
>> On 11/30/2013 5:03 PM, Pico Rico wrote:
>>
>>>> Short cord, proper size. It is heavier than the cord on the freezer
>>>> itself.
>>>>
>>>
>>> it is still a tripping hazard. You have been lucky!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Please explain how it is a tripping hazard. You have no idea where the
>> cord is. At the low point it is 3' off the ground and on a wall behind a
>> table.
>>
>> Sorry, no jackpot winner this time!
>
>I am being facetious, in response to the others who say a cord "must" be a
>hazard.
>

Well, I guess you can trip, fall and get strangled on it if your neck
hits it.

On Tue, 26 Nov 2013 20:23:24 -0500, jmcquown >
wrote:

>Just venting a bit. Ignore at will.
>
>A couple of months ago one of the breakers on the main electrical box
>tripped. I thought I'd reset it but it took several tries before it
>actually "took".
>
>This particular circuit controls (oddly) the overhead lights in the
>master bathroom where the tub and toilet are AND all the electrical
>outlets in the garage. Where the freezer is. That last time this
>happened I finally got it reset. <whew> In the meantime, I'd moved as
>much frozen food into the freezer in the side-by-side fridge as I could
>fit. I stored some things in the neighbor's freezer.
>
>This time, I've moved what I can fit to the fridge/freezer already.
>Because this time, that breaker absolutely will *not* reset. I've tried
>at least 20 times now. I think the breaker switch itself needs to be
>replaced.
>
>I've got a home warranty so I put in a service request. And left a
>message with the electricians they have a contract with. Here we are,
>two days before Thanksgiving. Even if I'm not cooking for company I
>stand to lose a goodly amount of food. I sure hope they can get someone
>out here tomorrow. I *know* this electrical company isn't going to be
>working on Thanksgiving. Possibly not even the day after. If they
>can't get to it tomorrow I'll be hunting down an electrican who can.
>I'm not sure I'll be able to find one.
>
>The good news is, I procrastinated about going to the grocery store
>yesterday. And today it was raining like mad. I'm not fond of
>loading a lot of groceries into the car when it's pouring down rain. So
>at least I won't lose as much food as I might if I'd already gone to
>Publix.
>
>Jill

Would you tell us how your electrician resolved your electrical
problem?

If it were me, I would keep having trouble with that circuit until
they came out and put the freezer on it's own circuit.

I would complain every time I tried to blow dry my hair, and the
breaker tripped until they fixed the problem. The problem will only
show up when the freezer kicks on at the same time you are using the
outlet in the bathroom. This may be rare, but I consider the circuit
overloaded. You should explain what you have in alt.home.repair.

https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=...ng/b3MjzXS8b0c[1-25-false]

"Metspitzer" > wrote in message
...
> On Tue, 26 Nov 2013 20:23:24 -0500, jmcquown >
> wrote:
>
>>Just venting a bit. Ignore at will.
>>
>>A couple of months ago one of the breakers on the main electrical box
>>tripped. I thought I'd reset it but it took several tries before it
>>actually "took".
>>
>>This particular circuit controls (oddly) the overhead lights in the
>>master bathroom where the tub and toilet are AND all the electrical
>>outlets in the garage. Where the freezer is. That last time this
>>happened I finally got it reset. <whew> In the meantime, I'd moved as
>>much frozen food into the freezer in the side-by-side fridge as I could
>>fit. I stored some things in the neighbor's freezer.
>>
>>This time, I've moved what I can fit to the fridge/freezer already.
>>Because this time, that breaker absolutely will *not* reset. I've tried
>>at least 20 times now. I think the breaker switch itself needs to be
>>replaced.
>>
>>I've got a home warranty so I put in a service request. And left a
>>message with the electricians they have a contract with. Here we are,
>>two days before Thanksgiving. Even if I'm not cooking for company I
>>stand to lose a goodly amount of food. I sure hope they can get someone
>>out here tomorrow. I *know* this electrical company isn't going to be
>>working on Thanksgiving. Possibly not even the day after. If they
>>can't get to it tomorrow I'll be hunting down an electrican who can.
>>I'm not sure I'll be able to find one.
>>Jill
>
> Would you tell us how your electrician resolved your electrical
> problem?
>
> If it were me, I would keep having trouble with that circuit until
> they came out and put the freezer on it's own circuit.
>
> I would complain every time I tried to blow dry my hair, and the
> breaker tripped until they fixed the problem. The problem will only
> show up when the freezer kicks on at the same time you are using the
> outlet in the bathroom. This may be rare, but I consider the circuit
> overloaded. You should explain what you have in alt.home.repair.

This sounds like a house that may have a ground fault breaker for the bath
and outside recepticals. Not that it is actually a ground fault problem,
but some houses are wired that way for GF protection.

Even if not, the problem is the the home owner putting a freezer on an
outlet not designed for it. There should be a seperate outlet for the
freezer. Same as for the refrigerator.

The hair dryer is probaly drawing close to the rated current of the breaker.
Would you say there is a problem with the wiring if two high current devices
were plugged into the same receptical or maybe in seperate ones that are on
the same circuit ?

On 12/8/2013 5:38 PM, Metspitzer wrote:

>
> Would you tell us how your electrician resolved your electrical
> problem?
>
> If it were me, I would keep having trouble with that circuit until
> they came out and put the freezer on it's own circuit.

I have not read the policy, but I doubt that is covered. Home
warranties will cover thing that break. Nothing is broken, just don't
plug in what overloads the circuit.

What if you had the same warranty on your clothes. Then you gained 50
pounds and your pants no longer fit. Not their problem. Nor is a
freezer and hair dryer on the same circuit, IMO.

>
> I would complain every time I tried to blow dry my hair, and the
> breaker tripped until they fixed the problem. The problem will only
> show up when the freezer kicks on at the same time you are using the
> outlet in the bathroom. This may be rare, but I consider the circuit
> overloaded. You should explain what you have in alt.home.repair.

Yes, it is overload and easily fixed. Unplug one of the appliances.