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General Cooking (rec.food.cooking) For general food and cooking discussion. Foods of all kinds, food procurement, cooking methods and techniques, eating, etc. |
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![]() My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? Janet US |
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On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 7:55:26 AM UTC-7, Janet B wrote:
> My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way > to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? > Janet US There is probably a knife sharpener guy in your area. Check the yellow pages or ask at a decent restaurant who sharpens their knives. |
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On Wed, 6 Jul 2016 08:06:08 -0700 (PDT), ImStillMags
> wrote: >On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 7:55:26 AM UTC-7, Janet B wrote: >> My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way >> to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? >> Janet US > >There is probably a knife sharpener guy in your area. Check the yellow pages or ask at a decent restaurant who sharpens their knives. Not a do-it-yourself project then? For what the guy I know of charges, I can buy new blades. Janet US |
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![]() JanetB, fabric/craft shops often have scissor sharpeners who come in and sharpen...You could find out if they do knives, and when the store will next have one show up. They are very reasonable for scissor sharpening. N. |
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On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 8:34:18 AM UTC-7, Nancy2 wrote:
> JanetB, fabric/craft shops often have scissor sharpeners who come in and sharpen...You > could find out if they do knives, and when the store will next have one show up. They are > very reasonable for scissor sharpening. > > N. That's a good idea. I hadn't thought about the scissor sharpener. |
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On Wed, 6 Jul 2016 08:34:13 -0700 (PDT), Nancy2
> wrote: > >JanetB, fabric/craft shops often have scissor sharpeners who come in and sharpen...You >could find out if they do knives, and when the store will next have one show up. They are >very reasonable for scissor sharpening. > >N. I hadn't thought of a scissors sharpener, thanks Janet US |
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On 7/6/2016 7:55 AM, Janet B wrote:
> > My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way > to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? > Janet US > There are sites on line that show you how - really,just the obvious - take the bottom off so the blade is accessible (for the blender), then sharpen the blade like any other blade. |
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On Wed, 6 Jul 2016 09:36:28 -0700, Taxed and Spent
> wrote: >On 7/6/2016 7:55 AM, Janet B wrote: >> >> My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way >> to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? >> Janet US >> > >There are sites on line that show you how - really,just the obvious - >take the bottom off so the blade is accessible (for the blender), then >sharpen the blade like any other blade. I occasionally dress my ancient Oster blender blade, same way I touch up all blades, draw file. Use a small machinist file to draw file your processor blads. An ignition file works well, auto parts stores like NAPA sell them, they're used to file the contact points inside a distributor cap... they're inexpensive and also make a great nail file as there are no teeth on the sides. I much prefer using hand tools for knife work, machine tools generate too much heat so can ruin a metal's temper. Hand tools also give one more control over how much material is removed. There's lots of draw filing information on line. If a blade is not too dull often a piece of fine emory paper wraped around a file is all that's needed... any hardware store will have wet n' dry polishing paper, the type used at auto body shops; a piece of 400 grit will be sufficient. If your blade is somewhat serrated or rippled the emory paper can be wraped around a piece of wood of the correct shape, often a wooden pencil works with rippled blades, for serrated blades a triangular jeweler's file works, or a swiss pattern file. http://www.listoftools.com/handtools...aw_filing.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJHvBZSJvcc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFj51A-gdz4 http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Files/files.html http://bandsawblade.com/SimondsFiles/swisspattern.htm |
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On Wed, 06 Jul 2016 13:56:55 -0400, Brooklyn1
> wrote: >On Wed, 6 Jul 2016 09:36:28 -0700, Taxed and Spent > wrote: > >>On 7/6/2016 7:55 AM, Janet B wrote: >>> >>> My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way >>> to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? >>> Janet US >>> >> >>There are sites on line that show you how - really,just the obvious - >>take the bottom off so the blade is accessible (for the blender), then >>sharpen the blade like any other blade. > >I occasionally dress my ancient Oster blender blade, same way I touch >up all blades, draw file. Use a small machinist file to draw file >your processor blads. An ignition file works well, auto parts stores >like NAPA sell them, they're used to file the contact points inside a >distributor cap... they're inexpensive and also make a great nail file >as there are no teeth on the sides. I much prefer using hand tools >for knife work, machine tools generate too much heat so can ruin a >metal's temper. Hand tools also give one more control over how much >material is removed. There's lots of draw filing information on line. >If a blade is not too dull often a piece of fine emory paper wraped >around a file is all that's needed... any hardware store will have wet >n' dry polishing paper, the type used at auto body shops; a piece of >400 grit will be sufficient. If your blade is somewhat serrated or >rippled the emory paper can be wraped around a piece of wood of the >correct shape, often a wooden pencil works with rippled blades, for >serrated blades a triangular jeweler's file works, or a swiss pattern >file. >http://www.listoftools.com/handtools...aw_filing.html >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJHvBZSJvcc >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFj51A-gdz4 >http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Files/files.html >http://bandsawblade.com/SimondsFiles/swisspattern.htm thanks Sheldon Janet US |
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On 7/6/2016 11:34 AM, Nancy2 wrote:
> > JanetB, fabric/craft shops often have scissor sharpeners who come in and sharpen...You > could find out if they do knives, and when the store will next have one show up. They are > very reasonable for scissor sharpening. Very interesting. I have a few pairs that could use some attention. I found out that there is a guy sharpening knives on a rotating schedule at my Whole Foods. I got my knives done but I didn't think to bring scissors. nancy |
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On Wed, 06 Jul 2016 08:55:30 -0600, Janet B >
wrote: > > My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way > to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? Are they replaceable? I have the mini-Ninja and figured I'd have to replace the entire unit if my motor outlasted the blades. -- sf |
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On Wed, 06 Jul 2016 13:10:06 -0700, sf > wrote:
>On Wed, 06 Jul 2016 08:55:30 -0600, Janet B > >wrote: > >> >> My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way >> to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? > >Are they replaceable? I have the mini-Ninja and figured I'd have to >replace the entire unit if my motor outlasted the blades. I haven't tried to replace yet. However, http://www.ninjakitchen.com/ find your model # and replacement parts and see if it is there. I did try the knife sharpener that Squertz recommended this a.m. and it does seem to work. The Ninja I purchased came with three different vessels, 3 different sets of blades, tops and one motor. It's a pretty old model. I'll work with the sharpener until the blades just are on last legs and then maybe look at replacing the whole thing. Ninja is pretty inexpensive. Janet US |
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On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 4:55:26 AM UTC-10, Janet B wrote:
> My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way > to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? > Janet US I'd just try sharpening the blades with a Dremel motor tool. How hard could it be? |
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On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 5:56:05 PM UTC-5, dsi1 wrote:
> On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 4:55:26 AM UTC-10, Janet B wrote: > > My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way > > to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? > > Janet US > > I'd just try sharpening the blades with a Dremel motor tool. How hard could it be? What Sheldon said about removing too much material! John Kuthe... |
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On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 7:58:00 PM UTC-10, John Kuthe wrote:
> On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 5:56:05 PM UTC-5, dsi1 wrote: > > On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 4:55:26 AM UTC-10, Janet B wrote: > > > My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way > > > to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? > > > Janet US > > > > I'd just try sharpening the blades with a Dremel motor tool. How hard could it be? > > What Sheldon said about removing too much material! > > John Kuthe... I'd use a silicon carbide rubber point - that would probably work dandy. |
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On Thu, 7 Jul 2016 01:41:50 -0700 (PDT), dsi1 >
wrote: > I'd use a silicon carbide rubber point - that would probably work dandy. First you have to buy a Dremel and the drill point. Might as well take those blades to the expensive knife sharpener and skip the process. -- sf |
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On Thu, 7 Jul 2016 01:41:50 -0700 (PDT), dsi1 >
wrote: >On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 7:58:00 PM UTC-10, John Kuthe wrote: >> On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 5:56:05 PM UTC-5, dsi1 wrote: >> > On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 4:55:26 AM UTC-10, Janet B wrote: >> > > My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way >> > > to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? >> > > Janet US >> > >> > I'd just try sharpening the blades with a Dremel motor tool. How hard could it be? >> >> What Sheldon said about removing too much material! >> >> John Kuthe... > >I'd use a silicon carbide rubber point - that would probably work dandy. Actually that's about the worst way to dress a blade, you'll only make it worse, you'd end up with a blade all wavey and gauged... if too cheap to buy a file use the fine side of an emery board, even the small nail file on a nail clipper would work and use it as draw filing, not cross filing, and cut into the edge, not away from the edge or you'll create a burr that will fold over making the edge duller than when you began. Remember, files cut in one direction only, lift the file on the back stroke or it's all for nought and you'll destroy the file... same with a saw blade. Unless you're a very skilled/accomplished craftsman do not use any power equipment on cutting edges. The highest skilled metal fabricators would always choose the method(s) of least risk to accomplish the goal. There would never be any reason to use a power tool for dressing one or two edges, power tools are reserved for mass production whereas one can afford to risk losing a small percentage of parts for achieving the benefit of achieving greater production. In this instance one or two parts are involved, so I would strongly recommend using only hand tools. I happen to be highly qualified in the use of all machine tools yet with my own personal applications wherever possible I always choose hand tools with cutting edges. I own a professional bench grinder but still I hand file my lawn mower blades, and I hand dress them often rather than allowing them to become so dull as to require machine grinding... it's actually easier and much quicker than removing the blades for grinding and than to necessitate removing large amounts of metal thereby greatly reducing the life of the blades. In case anyone doesn't know rotary mower blades are only flame hardened for a small depth of their cutting edge, perhaps no more than 3/8", then it's soft parent metal... this to reduce shattering from metal fatigue. So anyone who uses a rotary mower it behoves to replace blades after about 100 hours of use, before one has a terrible accident, the mower user probably won't be struck when a blade shatters but someone nearby coucd be seriously hurt or killed as though struck with a large caliber bullet... shattered mower blades have gone through walls. Rotary mower blades typically shatter at their weakest point, where the center bolt goes through. |
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On Thursday, July 7, 2016 at 6:27:11 AM UTC-10, sf wrote:
> On Thu, 7 Jul 2016 01:41:50 -0700 (PDT), dsi1 <dsi10hoo.com> > wrote: > > > I'd use a silicon carbide rubber point - that would probably work dandy. > > First you have to buy a Dremel and the drill point. Might as well > take those blades to the expensive knife sharpener and skip the > process. > > -- > > sf Luckily, I've got all those. |
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On Thursday, July 7, 2016 at 6:32:45 AM UTC-10, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> On Thu, 7 Jul 2016 01:41:50 -0700 (PDT), dsi1 <dsi10ahoo.com> > wrote: > > >On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 7:58:00 PM UTC-10, John Kuthe wrote: > >> On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 5:56:05 PM UTC-5, dsi1 wrote: > >> > On Wednesday, July 6, 2016 at 4:55:26 AM UTC-10, Janet B wrote: > >> > > My food processor and Ninja blades are getting dull. Is there a way > >> > > to sharpen them or must I buy new blades? > >> > > Janet US > >> > > >> > I'd just try sharpening the blades with a Dremel motor tool. How hard could it be? > >> > >> What Sheldon said about removing too much material! > >> > >> John Kuthe... > > > >I'd use a silicon carbide rubber point - that would probably work dandy. > > Actually that's about the worst way to dress a blade, you'll only make > it worse, you'd end up with a blade all wavey and gauged... if too > cheap to buy a file use the fine side of an emery board, even the > small nail file on a nail clipper would work and use it as draw > filing, not cross filing, and cut into the edge, not away from the > edge or you'll create a burr that will fold over making the edge > duller than when you began. Remember, files cut in one direction > only, lift the file on the back stroke or it's all for nought and > you'll destroy the file... same with a saw blade. Unless you're a > very skilled/accomplished craftsman do not use any power equipment on > cutting edges. The highest skilled metal fabricators would always > choose the method(s) of least risk to accomplish the goal. There > would never be any reason to use a power tool for dressing one or two > edges, power tools are reserved for mass production whereas one can > afford to risk losing a small percentage of parts for achieving the > benefit of achieving greater production. In this instance one or two > parts are involved, so I would strongly recommend using only hand > tools. I happen to be highly qualified in the use of all machine > tools yet with my own personal applications wherever possible I always > choose hand tools with cutting edges. I own a professional bench > grinder but still I hand file my lawn mower blades, and I hand dress > them often rather than allowing them to become so dull as to require > machine grinding... it's actually easier and much quicker than > removing the blades for grinding and than to necessitate removing > large amounts of metal thereby greatly reducing the life of the > blades. In case anyone doesn't know rotary mower blades are only > flame hardened for a small depth of their cutting edge, perhaps no > more than 3/8", then it's soft parent metal... this to reduce > shattering from metal fatigue. So anyone who uses a rotary mower it > behoves to replace blades after about 100 hours of use, before one has > a terrible accident, the mower user probably won't be struck when a > blade shatters but someone nearby coucd be seriously hurt or killed as > though struck with a large caliber bullet... shattered mower blades > have gone through walls. Rotary mower blades typically shatter at > their weakest point, where the center bolt goes through. I've used the Dremel since the late 80's so it's not going to be a problem. I wouldn't use it for sharpening a lawnmower blade - or would I? ![]() |
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