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On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 2:26:48 PM UTC-8, Travis McGee wrote:
> A Slower Pace for TVs "Galloping Gourmet > > By KIRK JOHNSONJAN. 9, 2017 > > MOUNT VERNON, Wash. He injected extra fat into already well-marbled > roasts, with a grin and an ever-present glass of wine. He laughed > uproariously at his own jokes, and told Americans that cooking at home > did not have to be particularly sophisticated or difficult (Julia Child, > the only other major TV chef of his era, had pretty much staked out that > turf anyway) to be wild, and wildly fun. > > But always, Graham Kerr leapt. Decades before Emeril Lagasse shouted > Bam! in administering a pinch of cayenne or garlic, Mr. Kerr defined > the television cook as a man of energy and constant motion The > Galloping Gourmet, as his shows title put it. > > Starting in 1969, in front of a live audience (another pioneering step, > long before the Food Network arrived) Mr. Kerr lassoed America into the > 1970s with the novel concept that watching someone cook was, first and > foremost, entertaining. > > He was hunky and British and funny, and in that heyday of the sexual > revolution, he could titillate audiences with a one-liner about > circumcision while peeling a cucumber. The media christened him the > high priest of hedonism. > > His trademark gesture of cheerful abandon came in the first few minutes > of every show, when he sprinted into the audience, armed with a glass of > wine, then ran back and leapt over two dining-table chairs and onto his > set without spilling a drop of the wine (thanks to plastic wrap across > the top). He invariably ended by slumping into his chair with a little, > Whew! > > Today, at 82, Mr. Kerr is more measured. His leaping days are over, but > he still speed walks every morning from his house here, an hour north of > Seattle, where he lives with his daughter Tessa and her husband. > > He still cooks, too, but will not make himself a hamburger because he > believes that two ounces is plenty of meat for a meal and, he said, you > cant make a decent two-ounce hamburger. > > Finding that place of moderation, though, was hard. In the 1970s, Mr. > Kerr lurched from indulgence to asceticism and a denunciation of excess, > including his own. Only gradually and with age, he said, did he find his > way to a middle ground that allows for some prepared foods, cooked with > minimal fat or fuss. > > Wouldnt one love to think that one always has wound up with the middle > way, and is now leading a perfectly balanced life? he said, laughing > and looking out over the Skagit River valley, which he fell in love with > years ago because he could see water and mountains and farms all from > one perch. But I had much distance to go, he added quietly. > > There is little doubt, fans and cultural historians say, that Mr. Kerr > helped define a certain corner-turning moment in America. He wasnt the > first male chef on television: James Beard got there in 1946. The run of > The Galloping Gourmet was also relatively brief; CBS canceled the show > in 1971 after a car crash in which Mr. Kerr and his wife, Treena, were > badly injured, requiring a long recovery. > > But in a time of profound anxiety and change the struggles over civil > rights and the Vietnam War were raging as he sprinted onto his set Mr. > Kerrs upbeat message resonated. Even when he flubbed some kitchen > maneuver, and perhaps especially when he flubbed, he reassured his > audience that it was going to be all right in the end. > > It was more than hedonism, more like just joy, said Kathleen Collins, > the author of the book Watching What We Eat: The Evolution of > Television Cooking Shows. He didnt seem to worry at all about either > the nutritional content, or the whole gestalt of drinking in the > kitchen. It was all just about creating a kind of fun atmosphere. > > As a serious cook, Mr. Kerr was on shakier ground. A former White House > chef publicly disparaged him, and the New York Times television critic > Jack Gould wrote that Mr. Kerr mixed the informality of the Automat > with food brought over from the Four Seasons. > > But for many fans, his mark was indelible. > > Bill Fountain, now a high school teacher in Dallas, was barely 5 when > Mr. Kerr began galloping. Mr. Fountain said his mother was ill in those > years and his father was working two jobs, gone most of the time. Mr. > Kerr made cooking seem like something a boy could do. > > He made a huge impression on me, Mr. Fountain, 52, said in a telephone > interview. I really love cooking, and I think that passion and that joy > of cooking came from Graham. > > Mr. Fountain, who produces a fiction podcast with a narrator who solves > mysteries involving food, still regularly cooks Mr. Kerrs jambalaya. > > There was this beautiful human quality to him, Mr. Fountain said, > something he also saw in Ms. Child. He dropped stuff, made mistakes, > spilled the oil, but he would always make it O.K., and to this day, I > think, how wonderful a thing to instill. > > Mr. Kerr grew up in the kitchen, the son of hoteliers in southern > England, but he was an adult before he first made the connection between > cooking and entertainment. He was working as a catering adviser to the > Royal New Zealand Air Force in 1960, when he suddenly had to fill in for > an officer who was to conduct a cooking demonstration. Making an omelet, > he also made his audience laugh. A TV cooking show in New Zealand, and > then Australia, soon followed. > > In his half-hour Galloping Gourmet segments, taped in Canada and > broadcast in the United States between weekday soap operas (and seen in > most British Commonwealth countries as well), the focus was on meat and > a lot of it, often as not larded with cream. Vegetables were mere garnish.. > > The pace was frenetic, and not just on the set. In a kind of travelogue > that linked food and foreign cultures a precursor to Anthony > Bourdains globe-trotting food programs Mr. Kerr went around the world > 28 times by his count, stopping to master specific dishes that he could > then teach his audience. I used to love watching him. He was an entertainer as well. I remember one segment where he made eggs benedict but instead of canadian bacon or ham he used a filet mignon. Of course he let some audience members taste it and swoon..... LOL He lives a few miles South of me. For a while, a few years ago, he was a chef/consultant for Haggen Foods (a local upscale grocer) and did original recipes for their deli salads and soups. |
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