https://postimg.cc/gallery/2vjay4eg2/
The cured ham was supposed to be for New Years but I cooked it a few
days later and now have the meaty bone in the freezer to become a
legume soup; pea or bean to be decided. Sugardale is a very good ham,
not too salty or fatty, and a butt half at $1.49lb a bargain.

And who says deer don't eat banana peels, they think it's candy. Light
not very good at dusk but didn't want to open the window and use
flash, she'd run off in a flash. She's watching me but if I'm still
she munches her peels.

On Friday, January 10, 2020 at 12:38:51 PM UTC-5, Sheldon wrote:
> https://postimg.cc/gallery/2vjay4eg2/
> The cured ham was supposed to be for New Years but I cooked it a few
> days later and now have the meaty bone in the freezer to become a
> legume soup; pea or bean to be decided. Sugardale is a very good ham,
> not too salty or fatty, and a butt half at $1.49lb a bargain.

"Water added". That must be what makes it "not too salty".

Cindy Hamilton

wrote:
>
> https://postimg.cc/gallery/2vjay4eg2/

Interesting how you seem so anal about cleaning and looks yet the
window edges are still peeling and raw wood on the inside. I
would have thought you would have fixed that immediately. No big
deal, I just noticed because I was a painter for so many
years...I spot stuff like that.

You obviously got replacement windows with double panes at some
time.
The peeling inside came from the days of single pane windows when
they
would condense.

On Sat, 11 Jan 2020 08:52:32 -0500, Gary wrote:
>penmart wrote:
>>
>> https://postimg.cc/gallery/2vjay4eg2/
>
>Interesting how you seem so anal about cleaning and looks yet the
>window edges are still peeling and raw wood on the inside. I
>would have thought you would have fixed that immediately. No big
>deal, I just noticed because I was a painter for so many
>years...I spot stuff like that.
>
>You obviously got replacement windows with double panes at some
>time.
>The peeling inside came from the days of single pane windows when
>they would condense.

Those are the windows that were here when we bought the house...
obviously they are replacements as this house was built 60 years ago,
before there were double pane windows.
Those are double pane wooden Andersons, however it gets so cold here
in winter that some condensation forms inside, especially on the
kitchen windows. Now Anderson makes their wooden windows clad with
vinyl, those don't need painting, I have repainted these windows but
it's too cold outside now to paint, I'll get to it once the AC is on
and the wood dries.. only the kitchen windows have the condensation
problem, from cooking... the bathroom windows have double pane
aluminum windows that are vinyl clad. I have only two windows with
the condensation problem... it costs a lot less to repaint two windows
every five years, costs a lot less than to have new windows installed.
Is there's some kind of wooden sash paint that condensation won't
affect... probably not which is why Anderson went to vinyl clad.
Repainting two window sashes takes me about an hour each coat (2
coats), takes a few minutes to apply masking tape. I've been painting
them with water based Benjamin Moore, perhaps an oil based paint would
last longer. Those windows are otherwise in excellent condition,
they'll outlast me. I'd have to give up cooking to stop the
condensation and that's not going to happen.

On 1/11/20 12:39 PM, wrote:
> On Sat, 11 Jan 2020 08:52:32 -0500, Gary wrote:
>> penmart wrote:
>>>
>>> https://postimg.cc/gallery/2vjay4eg2/
>>
>> Interesting how you seem so anal about cleaning and looks yet the
>> window edges are still peeling and raw wood on the inside. I
>> would have thought you would have fixed that immediately. No big
>> deal, I just noticed because I was a painter for so many
>> years...I spot stuff like that.
>>
>> You obviously got replacement windows with double panes at some
>> time.
>> The peeling inside came from the days of single pane windows when
>> they would condense.
>
> Those are the windows that were here when we bought the house...
> obviously they are replacements as this house was built 60 years ago,
> before there were double pane windows.
> Those are double pane wooden Andersons, however it gets so cold here
> in winter that some condensation forms inside, especially on the
> kitchen windows. Now Anderson makes their wooden windows clad with
> vinyl, those don't need painting, I have repainted these windows but
> it's too cold outside now to paint, I'll get to it once the AC is on
> and the wood dries.. only the kitchen windows have the condensation
> problem, from cooking... the bathroom windows have double pane
> aluminum windows that are vinyl clad. I have only two windows with
> the condensation problem... it costs a lot less to repaint two windows
> every five years, costs a lot less than to have new windows installed.
> Is there's some kind of wooden sash paint that condensation won't
> affect... probably not which is why Anderson went to vinyl clad.
> Repainting two window sashes takes me about an hour each coat (2
> coats), takes a few minutes to apply masking tape. I've been painting
> them with water based Benjamin Moore, perhaps an oil based paint would
> last longer. Those windows are otherwise in excellent condition,
> they'll outlast me. I'd have to give up cooking to stop the
> condensation and that's not going to happen.
>

Gary knows best. My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
the inside FWIW. Clean old work well, 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
and 2 coats finish coat. Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
when dry. Repeat often. (:

On Sat, 11 Jan 2020 12:48:41 -0700, jay > wrote:

>On 1/11/20 12:39 PM, wrote:
>> On Sat, 11 Jan 2020 08:52:32 -0500, Gary wrote:
>>> penmart wrote:
>>>>
>>>> https://postimg.cc/gallery/2vjay4eg2/
>>>
>>> Interesting how you seem so anal about cleaning and looks yet the
>>> window edges are still peeling and raw wood on the inside. I
>>> would have thought you would have fixed that immediately. No big
>>> deal, I just noticed because I was a painter for so many
>>> years...I spot stuff like that.
>>>
>>> You obviously got replacement windows with double panes at some
>>> time.
>>> The peeling inside came from the days of single pane windows when
>>> they would condense.
>>
>> Those are the windows that were here when we bought the house...
>> obviously they are replacements as this house was built 60 years ago,
>> before there were double pane windows.
>> Those are double pane wooden Andersons, however it gets so cold here
>> in winter that some condensation forms inside, especially on the
>> kitchen windows. Now Anderson makes their wooden windows clad with
>> vinyl, those don't need painting, I have repainted these windows but
>> it's too cold outside now to paint, I'll get to it once the AC is on
>> and the wood dries.. only the kitchen windows have the condensation
>> problem, from cooking... the bathroom windows have double pane
>> aluminum windows that are vinyl clad. I have only two windows with
>> the condensation problem... it costs a lot less to repaint two windows
>> every five years, costs a lot less than to have new windows installed.
>> Is there's some kind of wooden sash paint that condensation won't
>> affect... probably not which is why Anderson went to vinyl clad.
>> Repainting two window sashes takes me about an hour each coat (2
>> coats), takes a few minutes to apply masking tape. I've been painting
>> them with water based Benjamin Moore, perhaps an oil based paint would
>> last longer. Those windows are otherwise in excellent condition,
>> they'll outlast me. I'd have to give up cooking to stop the
>> condensation and that's not going to happen.
>>
>
>Gary knows best. My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
>the inside FWIW. Clean old work well, 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
>and 2 coats finish coat. Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
>when dry. Repeat often. (:

"BM"... sorry, but I'm not painting with a Bowel Movement.

On Saturday, January 11, 2020 at 3:02:15 PM UTC-6, Sheldon wrote:
>
> On Sat, 11 Jan 2020 12:48:41 -0700, jay > wrote:
>
> 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
> >and 2 coats finish coat.
>
> "BM"... sorry, but I'm not painting with a Bowel Movement.
>
Benjamin Moore paint.

On 1/11/20 2:02 PM, wrote:
> On Sat, 11 Jan 2020 12:48:41 -0700, jay > wrote:
>
>> On 1/11/20 12:39 PM, wrote:
>>> On Sat, 11 Jan 2020 08:52:32 -0500, Gary wrote:
>>>> penmart wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> https://postimg.cc/gallery/2vjay4eg2/
>>>>
>>>> Interesting how you seem so anal about cleaning and looks yet the
>>>> window edges are still peeling and raw wood on the inside. I
>>>> would have thought you would have fixed that immediately. No big
>>>> deal, I just noticed because I was a painter for so many
>>>> years...I spot stuff like that.
>>>>
>>>> You obviously got replacement windows with double panes at some
>>>> time.
>>>> The peeling inside came from the days of single pane windows when
>>>> they would condense.
>>>
>>> Those are the windows that were here when we bought the house...
>>> obviously they are replacements as this house was built 60 years ago,
>>> before there were double pane windows.
>>> Those are double pane wooden Andersons, however it gets so cold here
>>> in winter that some condensation forms inside, especially on the
>>> kitchen windows. Now Anderson makes their wooden windows clad with
>>> vinyl, those don't need painting, I have repainted these windows but
>>> it's too cold outside now to paint, I'll get to it once the AC is on
>>> and the wood dries.. only the kitchen windows have the condensation
>>> problem, from cooking... the bathroom windows have double pane
>>> aluminum windows that are vinyl clad. I have only two windows with
>>> the condensation problem... it costs a lot less to repaint two windows
>>> every five years, costs a lot less than to have new windows installed.
>>> Is there's some kind of wooden sash paint that condensation won't
>>> affect... probably not which is why Anderson went to vinyl clad.
>>> Repainting two window sashes takes me about an hour each coat (2
>>> coats), takes a few minutes to apply masking tape. I've been painting
>>> them with water based Benjamin Moore, perhaps an oil based paint would
>>> last longer. Those windows are otherwise in excellent condition,
>>> they'll outlast me. I'd have to give up cooking to stop the
>>> condensation and that's not going to happen.
>>>
>>
>> Gary knows best. My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
>> the inside FWIW. Clean old work well, 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
>> and 2 coats finish coat. Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
>> when dry. Repeat often. (:
>
> "BM"... sorry, but I'm not painting with a Bowel Movement.
>

It'll probably look shitty anyway.

On 1/11/20 2:38 PM, wrote:
> On Saturday, January 11, 2020 at 3:02:15 PM UTC-6, Sheldon wrote:
>>
>> On Sat, 11 Jan 2020 12:48:41 -0700, jay > wrote:
>>
>> 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
>>> and 2 coats finish coat.
>>
>> "BM"... sorry, but I'm not painting with a Bowel Movement.
>>
> Benjamin Moore paint.
>

On Sat, 11 Jan 2020 13:38:08 -0800 (PST), "
> wrote:

>On Saturday, January 11, 2020 at 3:02:15 PM UTC-6, Sheldon wrote:
>>
>> On Sat, 11 Jan 2020 12:48:41 -0700, jay > wrote:
>>
>> 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
>> >and 2 coats finish coat.
>>
>> "BM"... sorry, but I'm not painting with a Bowel Movement.
>>
>Benjamin Moore paint.

Such lazy typists. We use Benjamin Moore paint all the time but we
also use Rustoleum for outdoor painting for metal and wood. I think
Rustoleum white would be best for my windows... and I have most of a
gallon left from painting a steel outside door on our gardening shed.
I'll never understand why some are so lazy to type the full name of
something.

jay wrote:
> On 1/11/20 2:38 PM, wrote:
>> On Saturday, January 11, 2020 at 3:02:15 PM UTC-6, Sheldon wrote:
>>>
>>> On Sat, 11 Jan 2020 12:48:41 -0700, jay > wrote:
>>>
>>> 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
>>>> and 2 coats finish coat.
>>>
>>> "BM"... sorry, but I'm not painting with a Bowel Movement.
>>>
>> Benjamin Moore paint.
>>
>
>

Popeye ran off to eat ben moore's dick.

In article >, penmart01
@aol.com says...

> I'll never understand why some are so lazy to type the full name of
> something.
>

like T.I.A.D?

Janet UK

jay wrote:
>
> My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
> the inside FWIW. Clean old work well, 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
> and 2 coats finish coat. Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
> when dry. Repeat often. (:

The Ben Moore paint is good but a bit overpriced. Can't go
wrong with it though. Your method is spot on, imo.

wrote:
>
> Those are double pane wooden Andersons, however it gets so cold here
> in winter that some condensation forms inside, especially on the
> kitchen windows. Now Anderson makes their wooden windows clad with
> vinyl, those don't need painting, I have repainted these windows but
> it's too cold outside now to paint, I'll get to it once the AC is on
> and the wood dries.. only the kitchen windows have the condensation
> problem, from cooking... the bathroom windows have double pane
> aluminum windows that are vinyl clad. I have only two windows with
> the condensation problem... it costs a lot less to repaint two windows
> every five years, costs a lot less than to have new windows installed.

That's a fact. Just repaint occasionally.

> Is there's some kind of wooden sash paint that condensation won't
> affect... probably not which is why Anderson went to vinyl clad.
> Repainting two window sashes takes me about an hour each coat (2
> coats), takes a few minutes to apply masking tape. I've been painting
> them with water based Benjamin Moore, perhaps an oil based paint would
> last longer.

Water based has improved greatly and is superior to oil based
in most cases now.

wrote:
>
> We use Benjamin Moore paint all the time but we
> also use Rustoleum for outdoor painting for metal and wood. I think
> Rustoleum white would be best for my windows... and I have most of a
> gallon left from painting a steel outside door on our gardening shed.

Especially for outside metal, always use an oil paint.
Rustoleum is one of the cheapest but also about the best.
How often does that happen?

In the past, I repainted an old car and an old work van
with Rustoleum high gloss. Paint jobs lasted as long as I
kept the vehicles. No peeling at all. It's good stuff.

Most important though is to prep it right. Sand all, dust it
off with a dry brush and *clean it well* using a damp rag,
often rinsing to remove all dirt and dust.

Same applies for any outside painting. Prep is most important.
If anyone ever hires a painter for outside - if they show
up and just start painting without cleaning, fire them
immediately. They know better.

On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 09:02:57 -0500, Gary > wrote:

>jay wrote:
>>
>> My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
>> the inside FWIW. Clean old work well, 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
>> and 2 coats finish coat. Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
>> when dry. Repeat often. (:
>
>The Ben Moore paint is good but a bit overpriced. Can't go
>wrong with it though. Your method is spot on, imo.

Do you paint over the glass and then remove it? I never did.

On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 09:04:57 -0500, Gary > wrote:

wrote:
>>
>> We use Benjamin Moore paint all the time but we
>> also use Rustoleum for outdoor painting for metal and wood. I think
>> Rustoleum white would be best for my windows... and I have most of a
>> gallon left from painting a steel outside door on our gardening shed.
>
>Especially for outside metal, always use an oil paint.
>Rustoleum is one of the cheapest but also about the best.
>How often does that happen?

Two coats of Rustoleum seems to last forever... even one coat will
last a long time... I painted my outdoor diesel tank with Rustoleum
Hammered Copper, so far only one coat and it's been two years, looks
like freshly painted. I really like that hammered copper color.

>In the past, I repainted an old car and an old work van
>with Rustoleum high gloss. Paint jobs lasted as long as I
>kept the vehicles. No peeling at all. It's good stuff.
>
>Most important though is to prep it right. Sand all, dust it
>off with a dry brush and *clean it well* using a damp rag,
>often rinsing to remove all dirt and dust.
>
>Same applies for any outside painting. Prep is most important.
>If anyone ever hires a painter for outside - if they show
>up and just start painting without cleaning, fire them
>immediately. They know better.

I ordered the fuel tank from Home Depot, they had the best price. It
was delivered strapped tp a wood pallet and had a coat of some sort of
semi gloss black. I gave it a good wire brushing before painting. It
took one quart to cover well. It was an easy job as no ladder was
needed, the only difficult part was painting the bottom as there isn't
much room underneath, had to lie on my back for that portion:
https://postimg.cc/gallery/2uz4xumf6/
It wasn't easy setting up that 275 gallon tank and jockeying it into
position by myself. even empty it's damn heavy and clumsy to move... I
used an 8' 2" x 4" as a lever to lift and position it on those cement
blocks.

"Bruce" wrote in message ...

On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 09:02:57 -0500, Gary > wrote:

>jay wrote:
>>
>> My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
>> the inside FWIW. Clean old work well, 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
>> and 2 coats finish coat. Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
>> when dry. Repeat often. (:
>
>The Ben Moore paint is good but a bit overpriced. Can't go
>wrong with it though. Your method is spot on, imo.

Do you paint over the glass and then remove it? I never did.

===

I was wondering about that. Is that what they do???

Why do they do that?

On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 20:03:56 -0000, "Ophelia"
> wrote:

>"Bruce" wrote in message ...
>
>On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 09:02:57 -0500, Gary > wrote:
>
>>jay wrote:
>>>
>>> My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
>>> the inside FWIW. Clean old work well, 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
>>> and 2 coats finish coat. Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
>>> when dry. Repeat often. (:
>>
>>The Ben Moore paint is good but a bit overpriced. Can't go
>>wrong with it though. Your method is spot on, imo.
>
>Do you paint over the glass and then remove it? I never did.
>
>===
>
> I was wondering about that. Is that what they do???
>
> Why do they do that?

Maybe they can't paint in a straight line and don't want to use tape
or what do you call that stuff?

I've never seen a painter go over the glass. I've also never done it
myself and I I've painted quite a few houses when I was young.

On 1/14/20 1:03 PM, Ophelia wrote:
> "Bruce"Â* wrote in message
> ...
>
> On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 09:02:57 -0500, Gary > wrote:
>
>> jay wrote:
>>>
>>> Â*My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
>>> the inside FWIW.Â* Clean old work well,Â* 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
>>> and 2 coats finish coat.Â* Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
>>> when dry. Repeat often. (:
>>
>> The Ben Moore paint is good but a bit overpriced. Can't go
>> wrong with it though. Your method is spot on, imo.
>
> Do you paint over the glass and then remove it? I never did.
>
> ===
>
> Â* I was wondering about that. Is that what they do???
>
> Â* Why do they do that?


Google can explain this. But FWIW Lapping to the glass provides a
better seal so moisture doesn't work its way under the paint and rot the
wood. The glass needs to be clean and it's also faster.

See #10

https://www.popularmechanics.com/hom...wont-tell-you/

Bruce doesn't know that much!.. and thinks what he has seen or heard of
is the only thing that is true. He is actually quite stupid and
uniformed about most subject matter.

On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 14:17:09 -0700, jay > wrote:

>On 1/14/20 1:03 PM, Ophelia wrote:
>> "Bruce"Â* wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>> On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 09:02:57 -0500, Gary > wrote:
>>
>>> jay wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Â*My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
>>>> the inside FWIW.Â* Clean old work well,Â* 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
>>>> and 2 coats finish coat.Â* Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
>>>> when dry. Repeat often. (:
>>>
>>> The Ben Moore paint is good but a bit overpriced. Can't go
>>> wrong with it though. Your method is spot on, imo.
>>
>> Do you paint over the glass and then remove it? I never did.
>>
>> ===
>>
>> Â* I was wondering about that. Is that what they do???
>>
>> Â* Why do they do that?
>
>
>Google can explain this. But FWIW Lapping to the glass provides a
>better seal so moisture doesn't work its way under the paint and rot the
>wood. The glass needs to be clean and it's also faster.
>
>See #10
>
>https://www.popularmechanics.com/hom...wont-tell-you/
>
>Bruce doesn't know that much!.. and thinks what he has seen or heard of
>is the only thing that is true. He is actually quite stupid and
>uniformed about most subject matter.

Very childish last paragraph

(And of all RFC only Gary has painted more than me

Ophelia wrote:
>
> "Bruce" wrote in message ...
>
> On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 09:02:57 -0500, Gary > wrote:
>
> >jay wrote:
> >>
> >> My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
> >> the inside FWIW. Clean old work well, 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
> >> and 2 coats finish coat. Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
> >> when dry. Repeat often. (:
> >
> >The Ben Moore paint is good but a bit overpriced. Can't go
> >wrong with it though. Your method is spot on, imo.
>
> Do you paint over the glass and then remove it? I never did.
>
> ===
>
> I was wondering about that. Is that what they do???
>
> Why do they do that?

Stay tuned, O. I'll respond to this subject soon.
It's not as odd as it sounds. Funny to read how others
will speculate.

"Gary" wrote in message ...

Ophelia wrote:
>
> "Bruce" wrote in message
> ...
>
> On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 09:02:57 -0500, Gary > wrote:
>
> >jay wrote:
> >>
> >> My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
> >> the inside FWIW. Clean old work well, 2 coats of BM Fresh Start
> >> primer
> >> and 2 coats finish coat. Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
> >> when dry. Repeat often. (:
> >
> >The Ben Moore paint is good but a bit overpriced. Can't go
> >wrong with it though. Your method is spot on, imo.
>
> Do you paint over the glass and then remove it? I never did.
>
> ===
>
> I was wondering about that. Is that what they do???
>
> Why do they do that?

Stay tuned, O. I'll respond to this subject soon.
It's not as odd as it sounds. Funny to read how others
will speculate.

===

Thanks Will do

jay wrote:
>
> On 1/14/20 1:03 PM, Ophelia wrote:
> > "Bruce"Â wrote in message
> > ...
> >
> > On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 09:02:57 -0500, Gary > wrote:
> >
> >> jay wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Â My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
> >>> the inside FWIW. Clean old work well, 2 coats of BM Fresh Start primer
> >>> and 2 coats finish coat. Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
> >>> when dry. Repeat often. (:
> >>
> >> The Ben Moore paint is good but a bit overpriced. Can't go
> >> wrong with it though. Your method is spot on, imo.
> >
> > Do you paint over the glass and then remove it? I never did.
> >
> > ===
> >
> > Â I was wondering about that. Is that what they do???
> >
> > Â Why do they do that?
>
> Google can explain this. But FWIW Lapping to the glass provides a
> better seal so moisture doesn't work its way under the paint and rot the
> wood. The glass needs to be clean and it's also faster.


Ok. I tried to get away with the 'short answer' but in real
life, many different windows and situations

As far as running paint up onto the glass, that's for outside
of window only. Like Jay said above, it seals up any crack
between glass and sash. Keeps the rain from getting underneath
and causing damage.

I don't tape or scrape excess off though. Using a good brush,
just take your time and barely run up on glass a very tiny
amount with a straight line.

> https://www.popularmechanics.com/hom...wont-tell-you/

I looked at all those tips yesterday. A few were spot on but
many of them are incomplete. Many are also dumb advice too.
Fun to read though. Maybe someday, I'll do my own "tips
from a painter." Been there and done that for about 100 years.

As always, if anyone ever does have a question, I'm here
and you can ask me. Always glad to help.

Bruce wrote:
> (And of all RFC only Gary has painted more than me

That's a pretty bold statement there, pal.
What's your history of it? Just curious.

Anyway, I would certainly *HOPE* that no one here has
painted more than me. I wouldn't wish that on anyone.

"Gary" wrote in message ...

jay wrote:
>
> On 1/14/20 1:03 PM, Ophelia wrote:
> > "Bruce"Â wrote in message
> > ...
> >
> > On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 09:02:57 -0500, Gary > wrote:
> >
> >> jay wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Â My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
> >>> the inside FWIW. Clean old work well, 2 coats of BM Fresh Start
> >>> primer
> >>> and 2 coats finish coat. Lap paint on to glass and razor it back off
> >>> when dry. Repeat often. (:
> >>
> >> The Ben Moore paint is good but a bit overpriced. Can't go
> >> wrong with it though. Your method is spot on, imo.
> >
> > Do you paint over the glass and then remove it? I never did.
> >
> > ===
> >
> > Â I was wondering about that. Is that what they do???
> >
> > Â Why do they do that?
>
> Google can explain this. But FWIW Lapping to the glass provides a
> better seal so moisture doesn't work its way under the paint and rot the
> wood. The glass needs to be clean and it's also faster.


Ok. I tried to get away with the 'short answer' but in real
life, many different windows and situations

As far as running paint up onto the glass, that's for outside
of window only. Like Jay said above, it seals up any crack
between glass and sash. Keeps the rain from getting underneath
and causing damage.

I don't tape or scrape excess off though. Using a good brush,
just take your time and barely run up on glass a very tiny
amount with a straight line.

> https://www.popularmechanics.com/hom...wont-tell-you/

I looked at all those tips yesterday. A few were spot on but
many of them are incomplete. Many are also dumb advice too.
Fun to read though. Maybe someday, I'll do my own "tips
from a painter." Been there and done that for about 100 years.

As always, if anyone ever does have a question, I'm here
and you can ask me. Always glad to help.

===

Thanks very much, Gary. I will remember that Thanks to jay too for
his/her comments!

Gary wrote:

> jay wrote:
> >
> > On 1/14/20 1:03 PM, Ophelia wrote:
> > > "Bruce"Â wrote in message
> > > ...
> > >
> > > On Tue, 14 Jan 2020 09:02:57 -0500, Gary > wrote:
> > >
> > >> jay wrote:
> > > > >
> > >>> Â My Andersen windows are clad on the outside, not on
> > >>> the inside FWIW. Clean old work well, 2 coats of BM Fresh
> > Start primer >>> and 2 coats finish coat. Lap paint on to glass
> > and razor it back off >>> when dry. Repeat often. (:
> > > >
> > >> The Ben Moore paint is good but a bit overpriced. Can't go
> > >> wrong with it though. Your method is spot on, imo.
> > >
> > > Do you paint over the glass and then remove it? I never did.
> > >
> > > ===
> > >
> > > Â I was wondering about that. Is that what they do???
> > >
> > > Â Why do they do that?
> >
> > Google can explain this. But FWIW Lapping to the glass provides a
> > better seal so moisture doesn't work its way under the paint and
> > rot the wood. The glass needs to be clean and it's also faster.
>
>
> Ok. I tried to get away with the 'short answer' but in real
> life, many different windows and situations
>
> As far as running paint up onto the glass, that's for outside
> of window only. Like Jay said above, it seals up any crack
> between glass and sash. Keeps the rain from getting underneath
> and causing damage.
>
> I don't tape or scrape excess off though. Using a good brush,
> just take your time and barely run up on glass a very tiny
> amount with a straight line.
>
> >
https://www.popularmechanics.com/hom...wont-tell-you/
>
> I looked at all those tips yesterday. A few were spot on but
> many of them are incomplete. Many are also dumb advice too.
> Fun to read though. Maybe someday, I'll do my own "tips
> from a painter." Been there and done that for about 100 years.
>
> As always, if anyone ever does have a question, I'm here
> and you can ask me. Always glad to help.

Single pane windows require it both sides.