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General Cooking (rec.food.cooking) For general food and cooking discussion. Foods of all kinds, food procurement, cooking methods and techniques, eating, etc. |
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On Saturday, November 7, 1992 at 9:45:48 AM UTC-6, John David Auwen wrote:
> This is the best gravy advice I've read in my 4 years of reading > this newsgroup. Carol is still a major contributer to this group so > I'd like to thank her for her good advice that I'm reposting here. > ------------------------------------------------------------------ > From rec.food.cooking Tue Oct 8 16:27:09 1991 > From: (Carol Miller-Tutzauer) > Some time ago (1 yr), I posted my "gravy-making bible". Because I > figured others might be interested, I decided to re-post. > A couple comments to the person originating the request: I never > use cornstarch for gravy. I think it only results in making a > gravy taste "gummy." As for the color of your gravy not being > dark enough, I recommend below making a roux -- that is, sauteeing > flour in oil until it "cooks." The longer you cook the flour, > the more brown it becomes. It is relatively easy to cook the > roux until it turns the color of peanut butter. This will give > you a very nice beige color. For beef gravy, often your pan > drippings will add the necessary darkness. If you want something > deep rich brown, then you must cook the roux until it is the > color of a Hershey's milk chocolate bar. It takes a fair amount > of skill (or, rather, practice) to be able to cook a roux that > long without burning it. If you cook it over a VERY LOW heat, > stirring constantly, for about 1/2 hour, you can probably get > it pretty dark. But if it burns, you have to start over. What > I do, as a quick fix, to darken up gravy, is to add some Kitchen > Bouquet (or Gravy Master; found near the Worcestershire sauce > in the grocery store). In this way, you can safely make a > medium-color roux (peanut-butter color) and then "fix it up" > with some Kitchen Bouquet. > Flavor MUST come from pan drippings, and if you dilute them too > much, your gravy will be equally flavorless. Carmelized onions > can help, and so I recommend throwing some onion chunks into > the roasting pan with your meat. You can also throw in some > chunks of carrots and celery. This will help stretch your > meat drippings, flavor-wise. Sometimes, adding some salt > "tricks" your palate into thinking there is more meat flavor > in the gravy. However, be careful not to add too much salt. > Another option is to add a seasoning mixture -- my mother used > to add about 1/2 tsp of season salt to her pork chop gravy with > good "stretching" effects. I like to use Paul Prudhomme's > Cajun Magic for Poultry seasoning, but it is salty, so be careful. > Some fresh herbs added just at the end of cooking your roux > and before adding liquid to the roux mixture can also add flavor > and help stretch "thin" drippings. > Anyway... here goes: > > ================= > Gravy-Making Tips > ================= > For roasted meats (like roasted turkey or chicken, beef or pork roast): > 1. When meat has finished roasting, remove from oven. Let meat sit > for at least 20 minutes before doing anything. > 2. Remove meat to a serving plate (or a cutting board if you want > to carve it first before putting pieces on serving plate). Now you are > left with the roasting pan and the "drippings." > 3. Pour about 1/2 c of water into the pan with drippings. With a > spoon, keep stirring the liquid around until nearly all of the "crusties" > from the pan have dissolved in the liquid. (Note: In the case of > poultry, don't worry about scraping up all the skin that sticks to the > pan; just the crusted-on browned juices. Also, since turkeys are so much > larger pieces of meat, you should probably pour off most of the grease and > then use more water -- about 1 c to 1 1/2 c. Reserve the extra grease if > you would like to use it; otherwise, pitch it. It's tasty to cook veggies > in, like bacon grease; but don't overdo it -- think of your arteries!) > 4. Now...if you want your gravy to be "clean" of meat/skin > particles, strain the meat juice through a sieve into a bowl or other > vessel. Set this aside. You will need it soon. > 5. Get a heavy saucepan. Using vegetable oil (or some of the > poured off extra grease) -- about 4 T unless you are doing turkey and then > you should use about 1/2 c --, heat the oil in the saucepan. Now throw > in slightly less flour than you used oil (i.e, 3 T or a little less than > 1/2 c in the case of turkey). Fry the flour over a medium heat for a bit > to "cook out" the raw taste of the flour. If the mixture is thick or > gummy, just add small amounts of oil until the mixture runs to coat the > bottom of your pan. If you want, you can let the flour brown a bit but > be careful not to burn it. If you do, then you MUST start over. Now pour > your reserved juice into the flour/oil mixture, stirring steadily. Cook > until the gravy begins a gentle rolling boil. > 6. If at this point the gravy is too thick, add some water to thin > it. If the gravy is too thin, either lower the heat a bit and simmer away > some of the liquid OR cook up a small amount of flour/oil mixture to add > OR mix a bit of flour into either some solid shortening or butter and add. > > 7. Adjust seasonings (salt, pepper, & the like) to taste. > > -------------------------------------- > For a quick stovetop gravy from stock: > -------------------------------------- > 1. Follow the same basic procedure as above, except use stock/broth > (either fresh or canned) as the "juice". > 2. If you want a "brown" gravy and your stock isn't very dark, then > just be sure to slowly brown the flour/oil mixture first. Also feel free > to quickly fry some seasonings in the roux mixture just before adding the > stock/broth (e.g., herbs or combinations w/ salt, pepper, cayenne, dry > mustard, whatever). > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > For a stovetop gravy from pan-fried meats (like pork chops): > ------------------------------------------------------------ > 1. Make up your roux in a saucepan. > 2. Remove your meat from the pan to a serving dish. Be sure to > cover the meat with a lid or aluminum foil to keep it warm, or place in > a warm oven on an ovenproof platter. > 3. If the pan drippings are not already "dried onto" the pan, keep > the pan over a medium-low heat until there is no meat liquid in the pan > and the juices stick and brown on the pan bottom. Now "de-glaze" the pan > by using a some water (or broth, if available). > 4. Add the meat juice to the roux in the saucepan, heat to the > point where gravy just starts to boil. Adjust consistency of gravy as > explained above (cook down or add a bit more liquid). Adjust seasonings > (salt, pepper, whatever you want to add). > > ------------------- > Fried Chicken Gravy > ------------------- > 1. Remove cooked fried chicken to plate lined with paper towels or > to a brown paper bag. > 2. Pour off all but about 1/4 c of the oil in your pan, leaving as > many of the "crusties" as possible. > 3. Add somewhat less than 1/4 c flour to the pan and fry over > medium heat for a few minutes (don't burn!). > 4. If desired, at this point, add about 1 t of a mixed seasoning > mix (like cajun seasoning or Mrs. Dash or other concoction of your own). > Saute for about 30 seconds. > 5. Add 1 large can of chicken broth (or about 1 quart of homemade > stock -- good way to use your leftover parts & giblets). Cook until > desired consistency is reached. > 6. Adjust seasonings (salt, pepper, whatever). > > *Variation: Some people like their gravy made with milk or cream. In > this case, use less flour and you won't need it to thicken the gravy as > much. Also, leave less oil in the pan too, BUT KEEP THOSE CRUSTIES. You > can also add chopped cooked giblets to the gravy. I have also (during > oyster season), added whole fresh oysters to the gravy and served on top > of a good cornbread dressing or on rice & lima beans for a North > Carolina/New Orleans favorite (at least in our family). > -------------------------- > Final note: I've tried to be explicit and detailed with this, but it > really is quite easy. Combining oil and flour into a "roux" prevents the > flour from caking or making lumps. Cooking the flour a bit first takes > away the pasty raw flavor. Light rouxs are French; darker rouxs are > Cajun. > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > From rec.food.cooking Sat Aug 22 10:08:52 1992 > From: (Nicholas J. Simicich) > I was amazed to see, on the shelf in the store a while back, a can of > gravy. I was surprised that something so simple to make would be > canned as if it was hard to make. At the end of this lesson, you will > be able to make your own gravy, from scratch, amazing your friends and > confounding your S/O. > You might want to be able to make gravy at any time. The ingredients > are basically staples, that you'll be able to keep on a shelf for over > a year. You can buy gravy fixins once, and you'll have them for a > year, except for the milk. I'm going to give both a method and a > philosophy of gravy below. But if you could make gravy at a moments > notice, think about how the addition of gravy would change the six > things you can make (no, macaroni and cheese with gravy is not an > option). > Things you should buy and keep: > Wondra flour. Get the tube with the shaker top. Yep, this flour is > really a wonder. Why? Because it dissolves without tending to form > lumps, instead of lumping up. This phenomenon, 'lumpy gravy' was > the bane of many moms, and the name of at least one record album. > You still have to stir, some, but not as much. > Boullion. I'm not a fan of boullion cubes, but they are better than > nothing. However, these little jars of Bouvril are really good. > Get beef and chicken. Or whatever you think you will like. > Salt. Yep. But if you use boullion, you probably won't need it. > Pepper. "Makes no difference if its black or white." > Do you like dark brown gravy? Chances are that it arrives at this > color with a concoction called "Kitchen Bouquet". This only has > limited use in the kitchen, or so I feel. It is carmelized > vegetables, and is the home cook's version of caramel color. But > for making dark brown gravy without sweat, it works real well. > Herbs. Sage helps the flavor of gravy. But you will probably be > perfectly happy with something that you can buy called 'Poultry > Seasoning' that contains sage and some other stuff. You can use > this in lots of stuff, and it does well in gravy, and keeps you from > using an herb mix that is too unbalanced. > You've spent about 10 bucks. You can now make gravy about 20 times. > What should prompt you to make gravy? Well, pan drippings from frying > for one, or the liquid from cooking the fowl that you are too inept to > cook. In fact, whenever you look at the liquid in a pan, you should > be thinking, "Is it time for gravy? How about these burgers. What if > I made gravy and served them open faced with hot gravy? How about > this liver and onions? Would it taste good with gravy? Should I make > gravy with this chicken that I wasn't supposed to cook because I was > so inept? Instead of eggs for breakfast, how about gravy made with > the bacon drippings over Pillsbury poppin fresh biscuits, (which can > be made by anyone who has an oven and a timer)." One of my favorites, > that I eat very rarely these days, is fried kidneys made in Kidney > gravy. > For that matter, some folks like gravy so much that they will fry > onions until they get real brown to make onion gravy, or they will fry > a little beef fat to make beef gravy (but that doesn't work as well). > Step 1: Pour off most of the grease. You want only a couple of > tablespoons of drippings to start with, unless you plan on making a > whole couple quarts of gravy, you don't want it too greasy. If you > don't have a couple of tablespoons of grease, supplement with > vegetable oil. If you must, you can start with plain vegetable oil. > Add extra boullion to the water in step two. Consider browning a > little onion or garlic in plain oil, or a slice of bacon. > Step 2: Prepare the stock that will go into the gravy, eventually. If > you have non-greasy pan drippings, (or skim the grease) well, just > warm them over low heat or zap them. If not, boil a couple of cups of > water, and drop in your favorite boullion liquid or cube. One secret > is to put nearly boiling liquid into the mix at the appropriate point. > If you know you are going to make gravy, start heating your boullion > about the same time you start your burgers, or a few minutes after you > turn your chicken. > Step 3: Heat the pan to slow-medium frying temperature. Put in about > a half again as much flour as you have grease. In other words, if you > started with two tablespoons of grease, put in three tablespoons of > flour. Fry. Stir. The mixture should be pretty stiff. If it isn't > stiff enough to where it seems a little dry, use the shaker top to > shake some flour on. If you get it too dry, don't worry. Keep > stirring. When it browns just a little, or is sticking to the pan, > you are ready for step 3. > Step 4: It is time to make the gravy. Real simply: Add the hot water > a little at a time. Stir lots between additions. A whisk helps here, > but a fork will do. You know what consistency you want your gravy to > be. Add more liquid a little at a time, stirring between additions, > until it approaches that consistency. At one point, you may have a > single lump, sort of attached to your fork. Add more hot liquid, and > stir, stir, stir. Allow it to boil. Taste it. It probably tastes > flat. Add some pepper. Add some salt. Taste it again. If it gets > too thick, add some more liquid. If it is too thin, add some flour. > Too thin is better than too thick. Add some herbs, not too much. > Maybe 1/4 tsp, then boil for a minute, then taste, then maybe add a > little more. Let it boil, not too hard, for 3-4 minutes after you add > flour the last time. > Step 5: Brown gravy only --- add a couple of drops of Kitchen Bouquet > (the jar will stick closed, hot tap water will loosen it). White > chicken gravy should probably be finished with a dollop of milk. > [My grandmother used to add her water a tablespoon at a time, and use > a little soy sauce for color. Your job is much easier, because you > have Wondra and Kitchen Bouquet on your side.] > Now, if you were cooking stuff in the pan, probably some crud got on > on the pan, like if you were cooking burgers, bits of browned meat > stuck to the pan. This will boil off of the pan, and become part of > the gravy. If you browned onions, the onions will partially dissolve > in the gravy and add flavor. This is a feature, a desirable goal, and > is one of the marks of an excellent gravy, unless the stuff on the pan > was really burned black. > Again if you are making chicken gravy, I find that adding a dollop of > milk (not more than 1/4 cup) after I turn off the gas off and stirring > it in helps the flavor. > Advanced topics: If I have prepared a seasoned/herbed flour to dredge > chicken in, I will always make the gravy with that seasoned flour. > Cayenne pepper dresses up a gravy in moderate quantities. There are > many other styles of gravy, but this is the one I think you are likely > to use the most often. It is also the simplest. > Gravy is one of the simplest things I make. Sometimes, if I'm feeling > charitible to the dogs, I'll make gravy anyway, even though I don't > want it, and pour it over their food. They tell me that they like it > a little blander than I usually make it. It is so easy that it really > doesn't take up any extra time. Or you could just be lazy and use a cornstarch slurry. --Bryan |
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