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  #41 (permalink)   Report Post  
Kenneth
 
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On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 16:55:38 -0500, Rodney Myrvaagnes
> wrote:

>The thinner bottom doesn't conduct heat as well as the thicker bottom,
>just as physics tells you.


Huh...?

Is that what you intended to write?

Thanks,

--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
  #42 (permalink)   Report Post  
Arri London
 
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tenplay wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a good quality skillet. The saleswoman at a local
> department store recommended Lodge iron skillets even though they don't
> sell them. That was impressive in itself. Does anyone own one? If so,
> what do you think? I see them on sale at Amazon for just $14.99. Thanks.


We have a couple but they really aren't any better than the cheap
Chinese or Korean cast iron frying pans we also have. One of the Lodge
pans just doesn't heat evenly and didn't from when it was new.
Whatever sort you buy check that the metal is thick enough, the bottom
is flat and the handle well secured.
  #43 (permalink)   Report Post  
salgud
 
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Jim,
Interesting theory. Except for one thing. The iron in cast iron is
undigestible in the human digestive system. It's in the wrong form.
Just passes through your system and is excreted. BTW, I'm a
metallurigical engineer, and I know a little about metals and their
behaviors.

  #44 (permalink)   Report Post  
salgud
 
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I'm curious about all the re-seasoning some people reccommend here.
I've been using CI skillets for a almost 2 years now, first a borrowed
pair, then a pair I bought at a garage sale last summer. I got 2 large
skillets for $4. They were rusty and hadn't been seasoned correctly. I
brought them home, seasoned them (one took a second, longer 2 hr
seasoning) and they both work fine. The only time I re-seasoned one was
when my sons came for Thanksgiving. One of them put one of my CI
skillets in the dishwasher and I didn't know it until I unloaded it
later. I just re-seasoned it.
I think the reason I don't have to re-season them is how I clean them.
I never wash them with soap. I have a special coarse scrubber I use on
them and my wok that never sees soap. I scrub out the food with it,
then scrub them with Kosher salt (coarser, more abrasive than table
salt) and a paper towel to remore any lingering food particles and any
excess oil. It makes them almost as slick as non-stick, yet you can
still glaze and deglaze in them!
Cleaning them this way keeps the seasoning intact. Of course, every
time I cook with oil, I'm actually re-seasoning them. I'm told this
works for years, if not indefinitely. I've only done if for a little
over a year, so far. But it works great. (I've been doing it with my
spun steel wok for several years now, and can't remember the last time
I had to season it. Of course, CI is far more porous than spun steel,
so it might be different this way. Only time will tell. Still, if I had
to re-season once a year, that would be fine!)
Until I can afford All Clad, I like my CI skillets. They are cheap,
easy to cook in, and last forever. I've never cooked in the expensive
ones, so I don't know if there's any difference. Before I'd buy
expensive CI, I'd get the All Clad.

  #45 (permalink)   Report Post  
Jessica V.
 
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kc wrote:
> Then again, what is a rookie supposed to do when there are fake
> Griswolds out there?
>



One fake I have yet to be solicited by the importers to buy.

There is a good site on fakes though.

http://www.griswoldandwagner.com/inf...os/repros.html

How to not get taken, buy a number 10 it's too common and not profitable
enough to fake. If you're in the market for a number 13 buy from a
reputable dealer and pay with a credit card. As with 99% of fakes,
unauthorized reproductions and fantasy pieces the fakes are easy to spot
when you know how the real deal feels and looks. It really only takes a
bit of observation and touch to figure out which are real and which are
not.

Jessica


  #46 (permalink)   Report Post  
notbob
 
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On 2005-01-13, salgud > wrote:
> Jim,
> Interesting theory..... [snip]


Please configure your google account to display attributes and quoted text.
Thank you.

nb
  #47 (permalink)   Report Post  
notbob
 
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On 2005-01-13, salgud > wrote:
> Jim,
> Interesting theory..... [snip]


Please configure your google account to display attributes and quoted text.
Thank you.

nb
  #48 (permalink)   Report Post  
Kenneth
 
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On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 19:23:09 -0500, "Jessica V."
> wrote:

>It really only takes a
>bit of observation and touch to figure out which are real and which are
>not.
>
>Jessica


Howdy,

With respect, how would you know?

If a fake is good, any fake, it fools people. They think
they have the real deal.

All the best,

--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
  #49 (permalink)   Report Post  
Jessica V.
 
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Kenneth wrote:
> On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 19:23:09 -0500, "Jessica V."
> > wrote:
>
>
>>It really only takes a
>>bit of observation and touch to figure out which are real and which are
>>not.
>>
>>Jessica

>
>
> Howdy,
>
> With respect, how would you know?
>
> If a fake is good, any fake, it fools people. They think
> they have the real deal.
>
> All the best,
>


The fakes that are around are anything but good. Measurements are off,
weight is wrong, surface is wrong, logos are wrong in in some cases as
the site I referanced shows the material is wrong. I'd know because
I've used Griswold for more than twenty years and because I handle
enough of it in the course of my work to tell real from current fakes.
The pan I'd have the most concern with purchasing would be a number
13 that usually sells in the $1000-$3000 range depending on condition,
everything would have to be old factory catalog right about it. If a
good fake comes onto the market and neither I nor my business associates
are solicited to purchase it by the gross, I too stand a chance of being
taken.

Jessica
  #50 (permalink)   Report Post  
james a. finley
 
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"Alex Rast" > wrote in message
...
> at Wed, 12 Jan 2005 03:31:43 GMT in >,
> (tenplay) wrote :
>
> >I'm looking for a good quality skillet. The saleswoman at a local
> >department store recommended Lodge iron skillets even though they don't
> >sell them. That was impressive in itself. Does anyone own one? If so,
> > what do you think? I see them on sale at Amazon for just $14.99.
> > Thanks.

>
> They're OK, but get the un-preseasoned ones. The preseasoned ones go by

the
> moniker of "Lodge Logic". The problem with a factory "seasoning" is that
> you get no indication whatsoever as to how this was done. What oil did

they
> use (probably the cheapest possible)? What process did they use?
>
> Seasoning is plenty easy to do at home anyway. Just smear the whole thing
> with lard (preferably not the packaged varieties) and bake in a 350F oven
> for an hour or 2. It should look dark and uniform when it emerges,

probably
> with a few areas of brown where the melting fat collected. Be sure to put

a
> drip pan under the skillet (on the lower rack).
>
> The inside surface can also be effectively seasoned by frying a bunch of
> bacon, several large steaks, or a bunch of salt pork. I find that the
> frying method actually gets more even results, at least on the inside. But
> for the outside you'll want to do an oven preseasoning anyway because
> there's no easy way to to that on a stovetop.
> --
> Alex Rast
>

> (remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply)


What is to be gained by seasoning the outside of a pan?

Jim




  #51 (permalink)   Report Post  
james a. finley
 
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"Alex Rast" > wrote in message
...
> at Wed, 12 Jan 2005 03:31:43 GMT in >,
> (tenplay) wrote :
>
> >I'm looking for a good quality skillet. The saleswoman at a local
> >department store recommended Lodge iron skillets even though they don't
> >sell them. That was impressive in itself. Does anyone own one? If so,
> > what do you think? I see them on sale at Amazon for just $14.99.
> > Thanks.

>
> They're OK, but get the un-preseasoned ones. The preseasoned ones go by

the
> moniker of "Lodge Logic". The problem with a factory "seasoning" is that
> you get no indication whatsoever as to how this was done. What oil did

they
> use (probably the cheapest possible)? What process did they use?
>
> Seasoning is plenty easy to do at home anyway. Just smear the whole thing
> with lard (preferably not the packaged varieties) and bake in a 350F oven
> for an hour or 2. It should look dark and uniform when it emerges,

probably
> with a few areas of brown where the melting fat collected. Be sure to put

a
> drip pan under the skillet (on the lower rack).
>
> The inside surface can also be effectively seasoned by frying a bunch of
> bacon, several large steaks, or a bunch of salt pork. I find that the
> frying method actually gets more even results, at least on the inside. But
> for the outside you'll want to do an oven preseasoning anyway because
> there's no easy way to to that on a stovetop.
> --
> Alex Rast
>

> (remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply)


What is to be gained by seasoning the outside of a pan?

Jim


  #52 (permalink)   Report Post  
wff_ng_6
 
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"james a. finley" > wrote:
> What is to be gained by seasoning the outside of a pan?


To keep it from rusting. I suppose it depends on climate and how well you
dry things, but the "seasoning" on the outside will minimize the chance of
rust. Just to make sure I get a lot of iron or tinned steel items perfectly
dry before I put them away, I tend to put them in the oven for a few hours
to drive off any residual moisture. Not that I turn the oven on... I still
have one of those "antique" gas stoves with pilot lights. It's pretty warm
in there.


  #53 (permalink)   Report Post  
B. Kildow
 
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salgud wrote:
> I'm curious about all the re-seasoning some people reccommend here.
> I've been using CI skillets for a almost 2 years now, first a borrowed
> pair, then a pair I bought at a garage sale last summer. I got 2 large
> skillets for $4. They were rusty and hadn't been seasoned correctly. I
> brought them home, seasoned them (one took a second, longer 2 hr
> seasoning) and they both work fine. The only time I re-seasoned one was
> when my sons came for Thanksgiving. One of them put one of my CI
> skillets in the dishwasher and I didn't know it until I unloaded it
> later. I just re-seasoned it.
> I think the reason I don't have to re-season them is how I clean them.
> I never wash them with soap. I have a special coarse scrubber I use on
> them and my wok that never sees soap. I scrub out the food with it,
> then scrub them with Kosher salt (coarser, more abrasive than table
> salt) and a paper towel to remore any lingering food particles and any
> excess oil. It makes them almost as slick as non-stick, yet you can
> still glaze and deglaze in them!


I know a lot of people do this perfectly safely. There's just some
little, inner voice that says "wash the damn thing" especially when I've
done garlic whatnot in it for dinner and am planning on making Mike
Swedish Pancakes the next morning. So I do the quick reseason (i.e.
dry, heat on a burner, rub with Crisco) thing after I wash it. Between
reheating and oiling, it takes about 5 minutes while I'm doing other
stuff in the kitchen anyway. As my Mom would've said, "I guess that's
what makes horse races."

BK
> Cleaning them this way keeps the seasoning intact. Of course, every
> time I cook with oil, I'm actually re-seasoning them. I'm told this
> works for years, if not indefinitely. I've only done if for a little
> over a year, so far. But it works great. (I've been doing it with my
> spun steel wok for several years now, and can't remember the last time
> I had to season it. Of course, CI is far more porous than spun steel,
> so it might be different this way. Only time will tell. Still, if I had
> to re-season once a year, that would be fine!)
> Until I can afford All Clad, I like my CI skillets. They are cheap,
> easy to cook in, and last forever. I've never cooked in the expensive
> ones, so I don't know if there's any difference. Before I'd buy
> expensive CI, I'd get the All Clad.
>

  #54 (permalink)   Report Post  
B. Kildow
 
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salgud wrote:
> I'm curious about all the re-seasoning some people reccommend here.
> I've been using CI skillets for a almost 2 years now, first a borrowed
> pair, then a pair I bought at a garage sale last summer. I got 2 large
> skillets for $4. They were rusty and hadn't been seasoned correctly. I
> brought them home, seasoned them (one took a second, longer 2 hr
> seasoning) and they both work fine. The only time I re-seasoned one was
> when my sons came for Thanksgiving. One of them put one of my CI
> skillets in the dishwasher and I didn't know it until I unloaded it
> later. I just re-seasoned it.
> I think the reason I don't have to re-season them is how I clean them.
> I never wash them with soap. I have a special coarse scrubber I use on
> them and my wok that never sees soap. I scrub out the food with it,
> then scrub them with Kosher salt (coarser, more abrasive than table
> salt) and a paper towel to remore any lingering food particles and any
> excess oil. It makes them almost as slick as non-stick, yet you can
> still glaze and deglaze in them!


I know a lot of people do this perfectly safely. There's just some
little, inner voice that says "wash the damn thing" especially when I've
done garlic whatnot in it for dinner and am planning on making Mike
Swedish Pancakes the next morning. So I do the quick reseason (i.e.
dry, heat on a burner, rub with Crisco) thing after I wash it. Between
reheating and oiling, it takes about 5 minutes while I'm doing other
stuff in the kitchen anyway. As my Mom would've said, "I guess that's
what makes horse races."

BK
> Cleaning them this way keeps the seasoning intact. Of course, every
> time I cook with oil, I'm actually re-seasoning them. I'm told this
> works for years, if not indefinitely. I've only done if for a little
> over a year, so far. But it works great. (I've been doing it with my
> spun steel wok for several years now, and can't remember the last time
> I had to season it. Of course, CI is far more porous than spun steel,
> so it might be different this way. Only time will tell. Still, if I had
> to re-season once a year, that would be fine!)
> Until I can afford All Clad, I like my CI skillets. They are cheap,
> easy to cook in, and last forever. I've never cooked in the expensive
> ones, so I don't know if there's any difference. Before I'd buy
> expensive CI, I'd get the All Clad.
>

  #55 (permalink)   Report Post  
B. Kildow
 
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salgud wrote:

> Jim,
> Interesting theory. Except for one thing. The iron in cast iron is
> undigestible in the human digestive system. It's in the wrong form.
> Just passes through your system and is excreted. BTW, I'm a
> metallurigical engineer, and I know a little about metals and their
> behaviors.
>

Not disagreeing, though I've heard that you can pick up iron that way.
I have no factual knowledge one way or t'other, but if you can't absorb
it that way, you'd better advise these folks:
http://www.providence.org/LosAngeles...03irondiet.htm
It's L.A. Providence Health on their blood donor page:

"When possible, cook with iron pots and skillets to add iron to foods."

BK


  #56 (permalink)   Report Post  
B. Kildow
 
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salgud wrote:

> Jim,
> Interesting theory. Except for one thing. The iron in cast iron is
> undigestible in the human digestive system. It's in the wrong form.
> Just passes through your system and is excreted. BTW, I'm a
> metallurigical engineer, and I know a little about metals and their
> behaviors.
>

Not disagreeing, though I've heard that you can pick up iron that way.
I have no factual knowledge one way or t'other, but if you can't absorb
it that way, you'd better advise these folks:
http://www.providence.org/LosAngeles...03irondiet.htm
It's L.A. Providence Health on their blood donor page:

"When possible, cook with iron pots and skillets to add iron to foods."

BK
  #57 (permalink)   Report Post  
skoonj
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Katra" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> "skoonj" > wrote:
>
>> "tenplay" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > I'm looking for a good quality skillet. The saleswoman at a local
>> > department store recommended Lodge iron skillets even though they don't
>> > sell them. That was impressive in itself. Does anyone own one? If
>> > so,
>> > what do you think? I see them on sale at Amazon for just $14.99.
>> > Thanks.

>>
>> Everyone owns one, and we all love them.

>
> Not.
> Only because you don't know any better! ;-)
>


Well, it's still not clear whether the O.P. was asking about Lodge or about
cast itron skillets in general. If the latter, then I think I'm correct.

-T


  #58 (permalink)   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In rec.food.cooking, Me > wrote:

> For example, I sometimes heat my skillet to 500? in the oven before searing
> steaks in it.


Cool. I never thought of that.


--
In the councils of government, we must guard against the
acquisition of unwarranted influence, whether sought or unsought,
by the military-industrial complex. The potential for the
disastrous rise of misplaced power exists and will persist.
-- Dwight David Eisenhower
  #59 (permalink)   Report Post  
Rodney Myrvaagnes
 
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Don't pay more than the pan is worth to you, as a pan, unless you are
looking for "collectibles."

I can't imagine anyone bothering to fake a Griswold.

On 12 Jan 2005 14:04:51 -0800, "kc" > wrote:

>Then again, what is a rookie supposed to do when there are fake
>Griswolds out there?


Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a


Ask not with whom the buck stops . . .
  #60 (permalink)   Report Post  
Rodney Myrvaagnes
 
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Don't pay more than the pan is worth to you, as a pan, unless you are
looking for "collectibles."

I can't imagine anyone bothering to fake a Griswold.

On 12 Jan 2005 14:04:51 -0800, "kc" > wrote:

>Then again, what is a rookie supposed to do when there are fake
>Griswolds out there?


Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a


Ask not with whom the buck stops . . .


  #61 (permalink)   Report Post  
Rodney Myrvaagnes
 
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On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 17:31:05 -0500, Kenneth
> wrote:

>On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 16:55:38 -0500, Rodney Myrvaagnes
> wrote:
>
>>The thinner bottom doesn't conduct heat as well as the thicker bottom,
>>just as physics tells you.

>
>Huh...?
>
>Is that what you intended to write?
>
>Thanks,


It is, but I see the problem. The thickness is to add _sideways_
conductivity so the inside temperature is more uniform when the pan is
wider than the burner. The thin bottom will conduct more quickly to
hot spots on the inside right above the burner, which I guess is what
you were suggesting.


Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a


Ask not with whom the buck stops . . .
  #62 (permalink)   Report Post  
Rodney Myrvaagnes
 
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On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 17:31:05 -0500, Kenneth
> wrote:

>On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 16:55:38 -0500, Rodney Myrvaagnes
> wrote:
>
>>The thinner bottom doesn't conduct heat as well as the thicker bottom,
>>just as physics tells you.

>
>Huh...?
>
>Is that what you intended to write?
>
>Thanks,


It is, but I see the problem. The thickness is to add _sideways_
conductivity so the inside temperature is more uniform when the pan is
wider than the burner. The thin bottom will conduct more quickly to
hot spots on the inside right above the burner, which I guess is what
you were suggesting.


Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a


Ask not with whom the buck stops . . .
  #63 (permalink)   Report Post  
JimLane
 
Posts: n/a
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salgud wrote:
> Jim,
> Interesting theory. Except for one thing. The iron in cast iron is
> undigestible in the human digestive system. It's in the wrong form.
> Just passes through your system and is excreted. BTW, I'm a
> metallurigical engineer, and I know a little about metals and their
> behaviors.
>


Thanks for the info, but based on Kildow's post, if it holds water, then
I would say either the jury is out or maybe there is a connection.

Staying tuned, because it was a wild thought that came up.


jim
  #64 (permalink)   Report Post  
Katra
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article >,
"Jessica V." > wrote:

> Kenneth wrote:
> > On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 19:23:09 -0500, "Jessica V."
> > > wrote:
> >
> >
> >>It really only takes a
> >>bit of observation and touch to figure out which are real and which are
> >>not.
> >>
> >>Jessica

> >
> >
> > Howdy,
> >
> > With respect, how would you know?
> >
> > If a fake is good, any fake, it fools people. They think
> > they have the real deal.
> >
> > All the best,
> >

>
> The fakes that are around are anything but good. Measurements are off,
> weight is wrong, surface is wrong, logos are wrong in in some cases as
> the site I referanced shows the material is wrong. I'd know because
> I've used Griswold for more than twenty years and because I handle
> enough of it in the course of my work to tell real from current fakes.
> The pan I'd have the most concern with purchasing would be a number
> 13 that usually sells in the $1000-$3000 range depending on condition,
> everything would have to be old factory catalog right about it. If a
> good fake comes onto the market and neither I nor my business associates
> are solicited to purchase it by the gross, I too stand a chance of being
> taken.
>
> Jessica


How much is a #14 worth? :-)

I bought one off of ebay for $60.00 but the idiot took a grinder to the
pan and polished the entire thing! ;-( It was a silverish hue when I
received it. <sigh>

It's taken awhile but it looks pretty normal now, nice and black and
well re-seasoned and he did not manage to damage the logo much.

I'd give my eye teeth tho' to find a lid for it now!

Best darn roasting pan I've ever had...
--
K.

Sprout the MungBean to reply

"I don't like to commit myself about heaven and hell--you
see, I have friends in both places." --Mark Twain
  #65 (permalink)   Report Post  
Katra
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article >,
"Jessica V." > wrote:

> Kenneth wrote:
> > On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 19:23:09 -0500, "Jessica V."
> > > wrote:
> >
> >
> >>It really only takes a
> >>bit of observation and touch to figure out which are real and which are
> >>not.
> >>
> >>Jessica

> >
> >
> > Howdy,
> >
> > With respect, how would you know?
> >
> > If a fake is good, any fake, it fools people. They think
> > they have the real deal.
> >
> > All the best,
> >

>
> The fakes that are around are anything but good. Measurements are off,
> weight is wrong, surface is wrong, logos are wrong in in some cases as
> the site I referanced shows the material is wrong. I'd know because
> I've used Griswold for more than twenty years and because I handle
> enough of it in the course of my work to tell real from current fakes.
> The pan I'd have the most concern with purchasing would be a number
> 13 that usually sells in the $1000-$3000 range depending on condition,
> everything would have to be old factory catalog right about it. If a
> good fake comes onto the market and neither I nor my business associates
> are solicited to purchase it by the gross, I too stand a chance of being
> taken.
>
> Jessica


How much is a #14 worth? :-)

I bought one off of ebay for $60.00 but the idiot took a grinder to the
pan and polished the entire thing! ;-( It was a silverish hue when I
received it. <sigh>

It's taken awhile but it looks pretty normal now, nice and black and
well re-seasoned and he did not manage to damage the logo much.

I'd give my eye teeth tho' to find a lid for it now!

Best darn roasting pan I've ever had...
--
K.

Sprout the MungBean to reply

"I don't like to commit myself about heaven and hell--you
see, I have friends in both places." --Mark Twain


  #66 (permalink)   Report Post  
Katra
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article >,
"Jessica V." > wrote:

> Kenneth wrote:
> > On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 19:23:09 -0500, "Jessica V."
> > > wrote:
> >
> >
> >>It really only takes a
> >>bit of observation and touch to figure out which are real and which are
> >>not.
> >>
> >>Jessica

> >
> >
> > Howdy,
> >
> > With respect, how would you know?
> >
> > If a fake is good, any fake, it fools people. They think
> > they have the real deal.
> >
> > All the best,
> >

>
> The fakes that are around are anything but good. Measurements are off,
> weight is wrong, surface is wrong, logos are wrong in in some cases as
> the site I referanced shows the material is wrong. I'd know because
> I've used Griswold for more than twenty years and because I handle
> enough of it in the course of my work to tell real from current fakes.
> The pan I'd have the most concern with purchasing would be a number
> 13 that usually sells in the $1000-$3000 range depending on condition,
> everything would have to be old factory catalog right about it. If a
> good fake comes onto the market and neither I nor my business associates
> are solicited to purchase it by the gross, I too stand a chance of being
> taken.
>
> Jessica


How much is a #14 worth? :-)

I bought one off of ebay for $60.00 but the idiot took a grinder to the
pan and polished the entire thing! ;-( It was a silverish hue when I
received it. <sigh>

It's taken awhile but it looks pretty normal now, nice and black and
well re-seasoned and he did not manage to damage the logo much.

I'd give my eye teeth tho' to find a lid for it now!

Best darn roasting pan I've ever had...
--
K.

Sprout the MungBean to reply

"I don't like to commit myself about heaven and hell--you
see, I have friends in both places." --Mark Twain
  #67 (permalink)   Report Post  
Katra
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article >,
"james a. finley" > wrote:

> "Alex Rast" > wrote in message
> ...
> > at Wed, 12 Jan 2005 03:31:43 GMT in >,
> > (tenplay) wrote :
> >
> > >I'm looking for a good quality skillet. The saleswoman at a local
> > >department store recommended Lodge iron skillets even though they don't
> > >sell them. That was impressive in itself. Does anyone own one? If so,
> > > what do you think? I see them on sale at Amazon for just $14.99.
> > > Thanks.

> >
> > They're OK, but get the un-preseasoned ones. The preseasoned ones go by

> the
> > moniker of "Lodge Logic". The problem with a factory "seasoning" is that
> > you get no indication whatsoever as to how this was done. What oil did

> they
> > use (probably the cheapest possible)? What process did they use?
> >
> > Seasoning is plenty easy to do at home anyway. Just smear the whole thing
> > with lard (preferably not the packaged varieties) and bake in a 350F oven
> > for an hour or 2. It should look dark and uniform when it emerges,

> probably
> > with a few areas of brown where the melting fat collected. Be sure to put

> a
> > drip pan under the skillet (on the lower rack).
> >
> > The inside surface can also be effectively seasoned by frying a bunch of
> > bacon, several large steaks, or a bunch of salt pork. I find that the
> > frying method actually gets more even results, at least on the inside. But
> > for the outside you'll want to do an oven preseasoning anyway because
> > there's no easy way to to that on a stovetop.
> > --
> > Alex Rast
> >

> > (remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply)

>
> What is to be gained by seasoning the outside of a pan?
>
> Jim
>
>


Keeps it from rusting...

Gee Jim, I thought you were the expert on cast iron?

You sure try to give that impression! <lol>
--
K.

Sprout the MungBean to reply

"I don't like to commit myself about heaven and hell‹you
see, I have friends in both places." --Mark Twain
  #68 (permalink)   Report Post  
Katra
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article >,
"james a. finley" > wrote:

> "Alex Rast" > wrote in message
> ...
> > at Wed, 12 Jan 2005 03:31:43 GMT in >,
> > (tenplay) wrote :
> >
> > >I'm looking for a good quality skillet. The saleswoman at a local
> > >department store recommended Lodge iron skillets even though they don't
> > >sell them. That was impressive in itself. Does anyone own one? If so,
> > > what do you think? I see them on sale at Amazon for just $14.99.
> > > Thanks.

> >
> > They're OK, but get the un-preseasoned ones. The preseasoned ones go by

> the
> > moniker of "Lodge Logic". The problem with a factory "seasoning" is that
> > you get no indication whatsoever as to how this was done. What oil did

> they
> > use (probably the cheapest possible)? What process did they use?
> >
> > Seasoning is plenty easy to do at home anyway. Just smear the whole thing
> > with lard (preferably not the packaged varieties) and bake in a 350F oven
> > for an hour or 2. It should look dark and uniform when it emerges,

> probably
> > with a few areas of brown where the melting fat collected. Be sure to put

> a
> > drip pan under the skillet (on the lower rack).
> >
> > The inside surface can also be effectively seasoned by frying a bunch of
> > bacon, several large steaks, or a bunch of salt pork. I find that the
> > frying method actually gets more even results, at least on the inside. But
> > for the outside you'll want to do an oven preseasoning anyway because
> > there's no easy way to to that on a stovetop.
> > --
> > Alex Rast
> >

> > (remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply)

>
> What is to be gained by seasoning the outside of a pan?
>
> Jim
>
>


Keeps it from rusting...

Gee Jim, I thought you were the expert on cast iron?

You sure try to give that impression! <lol>
--
K.

Sprout the MungBean to reply

"I don't like to commit myself about heaven and hell‹you
see, I have friends in both places." --Mark Twain
  #69 (permalink)   Report Post  
JimLane
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Katra wrote:
> In article >,
> "james a. finley" > wrote:
>
>
>>"Alex Rast" > wrote in message
. ..
>>
>>>at Wed, 12 Jan 2005 03:31:43 GMT in >,
(tenplay) wrote :
>>>
>>>
>>>>I'm looking for a good quality skillet. The saleswoman at a local
>>>>department store recommended Lodge iron skillets even though they don't
>>>>sell them. That was impressive in itself. Does anyone own one? If so,
>>>> what do you think? I see them on sale at Amazon for just $14.99.
>>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>They're OK, but get the un-preseasoned ones. The preseasoned ones go by

>>
>>the
>>
>>>moniker of "Lodge Logic". The problem with a factory "seasoning" is that
>>>you get no indication whatsoever as to how this was done. What oil did

>>
>>they
>>
>>>use (probably the cheapest possible)? What process did they use?
>>>
>>>Seasoning is plenty easy to do at home anyway. Just smear the whole thing
>>>with lard (preferably not the packaged varieties) and bake in a 350F oven
>>>for an hour or 2. It should look dark and uniform when it emerges,

>>
>>probably
>>
>>>with a few areas of brown where the melting fat collected. Be sure to put

>>
>>a
>>
>>>drip pan under the skillet (on the lower rack).
>>>
>>>The inside surface can also be effectively seasoned by frying a bunch of
>>>bacon, several large steaks, or a bunch of salt pork. I find that the
>>>frying method actually gets more even results, at least on the inside. But
>>>for the outside you'll want to do an oven preseasoning anyway because
>>>there's no easy way to to that on a stovetop.
>>>--
>>>Alex Rast

>>>(remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply)

>>
>>What is to be gained by seasoning the outside of a pan?
>>
>>Jim
>>
>>

>
>
> Keeps it from rusting...
>
> Gee Jim, I thought you were the expert on cast iron?
>
> You sure try to give that impression! <lol>



Perhaps you may be confusing the two different jims. I'm lowercase, he's
up and down. But, I am not an expert by any means, just a well-seasoned
user (pun intended).

I have some seasoned inside and out, others inside only. Depended on my
mood when I was doing them and what was available. I plan on re-doing
the inside only pans as I am not always as diligent as I should be in
drying the outsides.

By "what was available," I mean I did some way back when a friend that
owned a restaurant allowed me to use his deep-fat fryers to season the
pans I had at the time (some of the inside-outside pans), others in an
oven (likewise) and some on the stove top (inside only). One of my
inside only pans has a wooden handle and I'm not comfortable with
removing that, so inside only it will remain.


jim
  #70 (permalink)   Report Post  
JimLane
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Katra wrote:
> In article >,
> "james a. finley" > wrote:
>
>
>>"Alex Rast" > wrote in message
. ..
>>
>>>at Wed, 12 Jan 2005 03:31:43 GMT in >,
(tenplay) wrote :
>>>
>>>
>>>>I'm looking for a good quality skillet. The saleswoman at a local
>>>>department store recommended Lodge iron skillets even though they don't
>>>>sell them. That was impressive in itself. Does anyone own one? If so,
>>>> what do you think? I see them on sale at Amazon for just $14.99.
>>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>They're OK, but get the un-preseasoned ones. The preseasoned ones go by

>>
>>the
>>
>>>moniker of "Lodge Logic". The problem with a factory "seasoning" is that
>>>you get no indication whatsoever as to how this was done. What oil did

>>
>>they
>>
>>>use (probably the cheapest possible)? What process did they use?
>>>
>>>Seasoning is plenty easy to do at home anyway. Just smear the whole thing
>>>with lard (preferably not the packaged varieties) and bake in a 350F oven
>>>for an hour or 2. It should look dark and uniform when it emerges,

>>
>>probably
>>
>>>with a few areas of brown where the melting fat collected. Be sure to put

>>
>>a
>>
>>>drip pan under the skillet (on the lower rack).
>>>
>>>The inside surface can also be effectively seasoned by frying a bunch of
>>>bacon, several large steaks, or a bunch of salt pork. I find that the
>>>frying method actually gets more even results, at least on the inside. But
>>>for the outside you'll want to do an oven preseasoning anyway because
>>>there's no easy way to to that on a stovetop.
>>>--
>>>Alex Rast

>>>(remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply)

>>
>>What is to be gained by seasoning the outside of a pan?
>>
>>Jim
>>
>>

>
>
> Keeps it from rusting...
>
> Gee Jim, I thought you were the expert on cast iron?
>
> You sure try to give that impression! <lol>



Perhaps you may be confusing the two different jims. I'm lowercase, he's
up and down. But, I am not an expert by any means, just a well-seasoned
user (pun intended).

I have some seasoned inside and out, others inside only. Depended on my
mood when I was doing them and what was available. I plan on re-doing
the inside only pans as I am not always as diligent as I should be in
drying the outsides.

By "what was available," I mean I did some way back when a friend that
owned a restaurant allowed me to use his deep-fat fryers to season the
pans I had at the time (some of the inside-outside pans), others in an
oven (likewise) and some on the stove top (inside only). One of my
inside only pans has a wooden handle and I'm not comfortable with
removing that, so inside only it will remain.


jim


  #71 (permalink)   Report Post  
JimLane
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Katra wrote:
> In article >,
> "james a. finley" > wrote:
>
>
>>"Alex Rast" > wrote in message
. ..
>>
>>>at Wed, 12 Jan 2005 03:31:43 GMT in >,
(tenplay) wrote :
>>>
>>>
>>>>I'm looking for a good quality skillet. The saleswoman at a local
>>>>department store recommended Lodge iron skillets even though they don't
>>>>sell them. That was impressive in itself. Does anyone own one? If so,
>>>> what do you think? I see them on sale at Amazon for just $14.99.
>>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>They're OK, but get the un-preseasoned ones. The preseasoned ones go by

>>
>>the
>>
>>>moniker of "Lodge Logic". The problem with a factory "seasoning" is that
>>>you get no indication whatsoever as to how this was done. What oil did

>>
>>they
>>
>>>use (probably the cheapest possible)? What process did they use?
>>>
>>>Seasoning is plenty easy to do at home anyway. Just smear the whole thing
>>>with lard (preferably not the packaged varieties) and bake in a 350F oven
>>>for an hour or 2. It should look dark and uniform when it emerges,

>>
>>probably
>>
>>>with a few areas of brown where the melting fat collected. Be sure to put

>>
>>a
>>
>>>drip pan under the skillet (on the lower rack).
>>>
>>>The inside surface can also be effectively seasoned by frying a bunch of
>>>bacon, several large steaks, or a bunch of salt pork. I find that the
>>>frying method actually gets more even results, at least on the inside. But
>>>for the outside you'll want to do an oven preseasoning anyway because
>>>there's no easy way to to that on a stovetop.
>>>--
>>>Alex Rast

>>>(remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply)

>>
>>What is to be gained by seasoning the outside of a pan?
>>
>>Jim
>>
>>

>
>
> Keeps it from rusting...
>
> Gee Jim, I thought you were the expert on cast iron?
>
> You sure try to give that impression! <lol>



Perhaps you may be confusing the two different jims. I'm lowercase, he's
up and down. But, I am not an expert by any means, just a well-seasoned
user (pun intended).

I have some seasoned inside and out, others inside only. Depended on my
mood when I was doing them and what was available. I plan on re-doing
the inside only pans as I am not always as diligent as I should be in
drying the outsides.

By "what was available," I mean I did some way back when a friend that
owned a restaurant allowed me to use his deep-fat fryers to season the
pans I had at the time (some of the inside-outside pans), others in an
oven (likewise) and some on the stove top (inside only). One of my
inside only pans has a wooden handle and I'm not comfortable with
removing that, so inside only it will remain.


jim
  #72 (permalink)   Report Post  
Witchy Way
 
Posts: n/a
Default

walmart sells them in a 3 pk for $16 (unseasoned). QVC sells the pre
seasoned for much more






  #73 (permalink)   Report Post  
Witchy Way
 
Posts: n/a
Default

walmart sells them in a 3 pk for $16 (unseasoned). QVC sells the pre
seasoned for much more






  #74 (permalink)   Report Post  
Witchy Way
 
Posts: n/a
Default

walmart sells them in a 3 pk for $16 (unseasoned). QVC sells the pre
seasoned for much more






  #77 (permalink)   Report Post  
Kenneth
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 20:04:38 -0500, "Jessica V."
> wrote:

>The fakes that are around are anything but good.


Hello again,

That is precisely my point...

Those "fakes" are the bad ones, and you know about them.

The most prized pan in your collection may be a "good" fake.
If it were, you would not know it.

Also, please understand that I am not trying to convey
anything about you, or your knowledge of pans (or anything
else <g>). Instead, I am making a comment about what it
means to "fake" something (successfully).

All the best,

--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
  #78 (permalink)   Report Post  
Rodney Myrvaagnes
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 06:49:51 -0500, Kenneth
> wrote:

>On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 20:04:38 -0500, "Jessica V."
> wrote:
>
>>The fakes that are around are anything but good.

>
>Hello again,
>
>That is precisely my point...
>
>Those "fakes" are the bad ones, and you know about them.
>
>The most prized pan in your collection may be a "good" fake.
>If it were, you would not know it.
>
>Also, please understand that I am not trying to convey
>anything about you, or your knowledge of pans (or anything
>else <g>). Instead, I am making a comment about what it
>means to "fake" something (successfully).
>
>All the best,



I took another poster's tip and looked at a web site concerned with
Wagner and Griswold collectible pans. Some of those prices are beyond
cookware, and might be well worth faking.

I have CI of both brands, as well as anon. All bought for cooking only
and without any concern for brand names, and priced as cookware ($16
is the highest price I have paid for CI).

So, the weight comparisons I posted earlier may not be valid, if
either is a fake. If either is a fake, it is a good one, not like the
ones in pictures on that web site.

They didn't show a Griswold #5, real or fake. Perhaps too commonplace
to be worth faking?

I don't think anyone would bid on a Stanley #1 for woodworking, or a
'Cesar Chelor in Wrentham' either. Such things are retirement
investments, as are $1500 skillets.


Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a


Ask not with whom the buck stops . . .
  #79 (permalink)   Report Post  
Rodney Myrvaagnes
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 06:49:51 -0500, Kenneth
> wrote:

>On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 20:04:38 -0500, "Jessica V."
> wrote:
>
>>The fakes that are around are anything but good.

>
>Hello again,
>
>That is precisely my point...
>
>Those "fakes" are the bad ones, and you know about them.
>
>The most prized pan in your collection may be a "good" fake.
>If it were, you would not know it.
>
>Also, please understand that I am not trying to convey
>anything about you, or your knowledge of pans (or anything
>else <g>). Instead, I am making a comment about what it
>means to "fake" something (successfully).
>
>All the best,



I took another poster's tip and looked at a web site concerned with
Wagner and Griswold collectible pans. Some of those prices are beyond
cookware, and might be well worth faking.

I have CI of both brands, as well as anon. All bought for cooking only
and without any concern for brand names, and priced as cookware ($16
is the highest price I have paid for CI).

So, the weight comparisons I posted earlier may not be valid, if
either is a fake. If either is a fake, it is a good one, not like the
ones in pictures on that web site.

They didn't show a Griswold #5, real or fake. Perhaps too commonplace
to be worth faking?

I don't think anyone would bid on a Stanley #1 for woodworking, or a
'Cesar Chelor in Wrentham' either. Such things are retirement
investments, as are $1500 skillets.


Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a


Ask not with whom the buck stops . . .
  #80 (permalink)   Report Post  
Katra
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article >,
JimLane > wrote:

> Katra wrote:
> > In article >,
> > "james a. finley" > wrote:
> >
> >
> >>"Alex Rast" > wrote in message
> . ..
> >>
> >>>at Wed, 12 Jan 2005 03:31:43 GMT in >,
> (tenplay) wrote :
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>I'm looking for a good quality skillet. The saleswoman at a local
> >>>>department store recommended Lodge iron skillets even though they don't
> >>>>sell them. That was impressive in itself. Does anyone own one? If so,
> >>>> what do you think? I see them on sale at Amazon for just $14.99.
> >>>> Thanks.
> >>>
> >>>They're OK, but get the un-preseasoned ones. The preseasoned ones go by
> >>
> >>the
> >>
> >>>moniker of "Lodge Logic". The problem with a factory "seasoning" is that
> >>>you get no indication whatsoever as to how this was done. What oil did
> >>
> >>they
> >>
> >>>use (probably the cheapest possible)? What process did they use?
> >>>
> >>>Seasoning is plenty easy to do at home anyway. Just smear the whole thing
> >>>with lard (preferably not the packaged varieties) and bake in a 350F oven
> >>>for an hour or 2. It should look dark and uniform when it emerges,
> >>
> >>probably
> >>
> >>>with a few areas of brown where the melting fat collected. Be sure to put
> >>
> >>a
> >>
> >>>drip pan under the skillet (on the lower rack).
> >>>
> >>>The inside surface can also be effectively seasoned by frying a bunch of
> >>>bacon, several large steaks, or a bunch of salt pork. I find that the
> >>>frying method actually gets more even results, at least on the inside. But
> >>>for the outside you'll want to do an oven preseasoning anyway because
> >>>there's no easy way to to that on a stovetop.
> >>>--
> >>>Alex Rast
>
> >>>(remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply)
> >>
> >>What is to be gained by seasoning the outside of a pan?
> >>
> >>Jim
> >>
> >>

> >
> >
> > Keeps it from rusting...
> >
> > Gee Jim, I thought you were the expert on cast iron?
> >
> > You sure try to give that impression! <lol>

>
>
> Perhaps you may be confusing the two different jims. I'm lowercase, he's
> up and down. But, I am not an expert by any means, just a well-seasoned
> user (pun intended).


Oh! Sorry! :-)
>
> I have some seasoned inside and out, others inside only. Depended on my
> mood when I was doing them and what was available. I plan on re-doing
> the inside only pans as I am not always as diligent as I should be in
> drying the outsides.
>
> By "what was available," I mean I did some way back when a friend that
> owned a restaurant allowed me to use his deep-fat fryers to season the
> pans I had at the time (some of the inside-outside pans), others in an
> oven (likewise) and some on the stove top (inside only). One of my
> inside only pans has a wooden handle and I'm not comfortable with
> removing that, so inside only it will remain.


I've never had a cast iron skillet with a wood handle...
All mine are cast in one piece!

I can see why that'd be nice tho'. ;-) No need for a hot pan holder.

>
>
> jim

--
K.

Sprout the MungBean to reply

"I don't like to commit myself about heaven and hell‹you
see, I have friends in both places." --Mark Twain
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