I just caught this on the tube, for periodic cutting board cleaning:

Make a paste of dry cleanser (such as Comet), and water. Spread it evenly
over the cutting surface and allow to dry overnight. Next day, rinse
thoroughly under warm water using a paper towel to rub off any excess
cleanser.

Sprinkle wet cutting board liberally with Kosher salt. Scour salt on the
board with a half lemon until salt is dissolved. Give a final quick rinse
under warm water and let dry.

This is said to sanitize and remove stains.

Since I use polypropylene and nylon cutting boards, I'll just keep this for
reference.

--
Wayne Boatwright
____________________________________________

Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day.
Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974

In article >,
Wayne Boatwright > wrote:

> I just caught this on the tube, for periodic cutting board cleaning:
>
> Make a paste of dry cleanser (such as Comet), and water. Spread it evenly
> over the cutting surface and allow to dry overnight. Next day, rinse
> thoroughly under warm water using a paper towel to rub off any excess
> cleanser.
>
> Sprinkle wet cutting board liberally with Kosher salt. Scour salt on the
> board with a half lemon until salt is dissolved. Give a final quick rinse
> under warm water and let dry.
>
> This is said to sanitize and remove stains.
>
> Since I use polypropylene and nylon cutting boards, I'll just keep this for
> reference.

Cool tips! :-)

For mine, I just scrub it off with warm soapy water from the dishpan
every time I'm done using it and set it upright to dry.

When it starts getting dark or stained, I spread lemon juice over the
board and let it sit for awhile, then wash/rinse as usual. I've found
that lemon juice bleaches it nicely without damaging the wood.

I guess the salt might be a better sanitizer tho'?

--
K.

Sprout the Mung Bean to reply...

There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada

>,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,<

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra

I wouldn't use cleanser on a wood board. Yikes! Do you know what it
tastes like? You will.

I learned by sad experience that repeated water and soap washings, even
if "wiped off and set on end to dry," the wood will absorb the water
even after you wipe it up, and eventually warp and split along the
joins, if it is butcher block.

I learned from a caterer the "ten percent solution" actually required
by health dept inspectors. Keep a squirt container of bleach water,
one tenth bleach and nine tenths water. Wipe off your board and
counters with paper towels to remove obvious residue. (Remember your
kitchen sponge and dishcloth contain more bacteria than you bathroom
surfaces - but that's another thred in the past.)

Then squirt the bleach/water solution on your board and countertops.
Wipe with more paper towels. .Wipe dry with (third) paper towels.
Any remaining bleach that you smell is really in the air, not on the
surface. But if you wish, rinse again with more towels slightly
dampened with water - but remember that at this stage you are really
applying, not removing, fresh bacteria.

And, oh yes. Lemon is nice. It smells nice. Looks pretty. Doesn't
do a bit of cleaning.

wrote:
[snip]
> And, oh yes. Lemon is nice. It smells nice. Looks pretty.
Doesn't
> do a bit of cleaning.

What!? How can that be!? Do you have any idea how many millions of
advertising dollars have been spent to embed in our minds the equation
Lemon = Clean = Fresh = wonderful for everything in the
laundry/bath/kitchen?!

You are a heretic.

-aem

aem wrote:
> wrote:
> [snip]
> > And, oh yes. Lemon is nice. It smells nice. Looks pretty.
> Doesn't
> > do a bit of cleaning.
>
> What!? How can that be!? Do you have any idea how many millions of
> advertising dollars have been spent to embed in our minds the
equation
> Lemon = Clean = Fresh = wonderful for everything in the
> laundry/bath/kitchen?!
>
> You are a heretic.
>
> -aem


Perhaps so. Read above. Here it is again.

>And, oh yes. Lemon is nice. It smells nice.
>Looks pretty. Doesn't
> do a bit of cleaning.

"aem" >, if that's their real name, wrote:

wrote:
>[snip]
>> And, oh yes. Lemon is nice. It smells nice. Looks pretty.
>Doesn't
>> do a bit of cleaning.
>
>What!? How can that be!? Do you have any idea how many millions of
>advertising dollars have been spent to embed in our minds the equation
>Lemon = Clean = Fresh = wonderful for everything in the
>laundry/bath/kitchen?!
>
>You are a heretic.

Yeah, everyone knows that it's either pine or orange that cleans.

Carol
--
"Years ago my mother used to say to me... She'd say,
'In this world Elwood, you must be oh-so smart or oh-so pleasant.'
Well, for years I was smart.... I recommend pleasant. You may quote me."

*James Stewart* in the 1950 movie, _Harvey_

In article . com>,
" > wrote:

> I learned by sad experience that repeated water and soap washings, even
> if "wiped off and set on end to dry," the wood will absorb the water
> even after you wipe it up, and eventually warp and split along the
> joins, if it is butcher block.

I acquired two long narrow cutting boards by that method. Actually,
they're very useful. ;-)

Priscilla
--
"And what's this crap about Sodomites? It's always Sodomites this and
Sodomites that. What about us Gomorrahians? We were there too; we
deserve some mention. Sodom always gets the credit, and Gomorrah always
does the work." - JohnN in alt.religion.christian.episcopal

On 2005-03-06, > wrote:

> I learned by sad experience that repeated water and soap washings, even
> if "wiped off and set on end to dry," the wood will absorb the water
> even after you wipe it up, and eventually warp and split along the
> joins, if it is butcher block.

Depends on the board. I have a 10" cutting board I've been using for
7-8 years. Wash with soap and water with every use with an occasional
chlorine douche. Never wipe with paper towels, just drip dry. Never
been oiled. Has warped a few times from leaving too wet, but it
always straightens out when dry and has never split. It's still as
good as ever. I'd say a lot has to do with the quality of the board,
the wood and the glue. I sure wish I could remember where I bought
this thing.

I once bought an very nice (and pricey) bamboo cutting board. I
expected great things. It split in to places before I got it home!

nb

notbob wrote:
> On 2005-03-06, >
> wrote:
>
>> I learned by sad experience that repeated water and soap
>> washings, even if "wiped off and set on end to dry,"
>> the wood will absorb the water even after you wipe it
>> up, and eventually warp and split along the joins, if
>> it is butcher block.
>
> Depends on the board. I have a 10" cutting board I've
> been using for 7-8 years. Wash with soap and water with
> every use with an occasional chlorine douche. Never wipe
> with paper towels, just drip dry. Never been oiled. Has
> warped a few times from leaving too wet, but it always
> straightens out when dry and has never split. It's still
> as good as ever. I'd say a lot has to do with the
> quality of the board, the wood and the glue. I sure wish
> I could remember where I bought this thing.
>
> I once bought an very nice (and pricey) bamboo cutting
> board. I expected great things. It split in to places
> before I got it home!
>
> nb

I've got an old wooden (so old I didn't care if it disintegrated) cheap
(less than $5 about 25 years ago) cutting board that goes through the
dishwasher along with my plastic boards. The thing just won't die.
Of course now, I'd be disappointed if it warped or cracked, since it has
become my favorite.

BOB

notbob wrote:
> On 2005-03-06, > wrote:
>
> > I learned by sad experience that repeated water and soap washings,
even
> > if "wiped off and set on end to dry," the wood will absorb the
water
> > even after you wipe it up, and eventually warp and split along the
> > joins, if it is butcher block.
>
> Depends on the board. I have a 10" cutting board I've been using for
> 7-8 years. Wash with soap and water with every use with an
occasional
> chlorine douche. Never wipe with paper towels, just drip dry.

Just curious... what about paper towels prevents their use for wiping a
food prep board? Btw, I detest the term "cutting board"... it implies
cutting the board rather than the food, why would anyone want to cut
into their food prep board... with correct technique there should never
be any cuts/gouges imported into a food prep surface. Cover the food
prep surface with butcher paper and practice your knife wielding
technique until you can do your food prep without making any slices
through the butcher paper. For butchering (beef, fowl, fish, etc.) on
wood always choose an end grain surface, professinal butchers don't
work on the flat of the grain and neither should you. Of course
nowadays butchers, and all food prep venues are more and more switching
to plastic and so should we all.



Never
> been oiled. Has warped a few times from leaving too wet, but it
> always straightens out when dry and has never split. It's still as
> good as ever. I'd say a lot has to do with the quality of the board,
> the wood and the glue. I sure wish I could remember where I bought
> this thing.
>
> I once bought an very nice (and pricey) bamboo cutting board. I
> expected great things. It split in to places before I got it home!
>
> nb

Sheldon wrote:

> notbob wrote:
>
>>On 2005-03-06, > wrote:
>>
>>>I learned by sad experience that repeated water and soap washings, even
>>>if "wiped off and set on end to dry," the wood will absorb the water
>>>even after you wipe it up, and eventually warp and split along the
>>>joins, if it is butcher block.
>>
>>Depends on the board. I have a 10" cutting board I've been using for
>>7-8 years. Wash with soap and water with every use with an occasional
>>chlorine douche. Never wipe with paper towels, just drip dry.
>
>
> Just curious... what about paper towels prevents their use for wiping a
> food prep board? Btw, I detest the term "cutting board"... it implies
> cutting the board rather than the food,

<LOL> And now Sheldon becomes a linguistic blowhard, just like he does
with food issues. How about "shaving cream?" Does that make you think
someone's shaving some cream? Idiot.

> why would anyone want to cut
> into their food prep board... with correct technique there should never
> be any cuts/gouges imported into a food prep surface. Cover the food
> prep surface with butcher paper and practice your knife wielding
> technique until you can do your food prep without making any slices
> through the butcher paper.

This is happy horseshit. If it were the case, there would be no need
for cutting boards at all - wood or plastic. We could all save
ourselves the cost and effort to keep boards maintained. In the
professional kitchen, cutting boards are scored and marked by the
process of cutting. Period. That's why there are instructions provided
by the professional equipment manufacturers for refinishing boards and
some companies offer the service of refinishing them for you.

> For butchering (beef, fowl, fish, etc.) on
> wood always choose an end grain surface, professinal butchers don't
> work on the flat of the grain and neither should you.

More nonsense. Professional butchers use end grain for "chopping
blocks" where they're bringing meat cleavers down with force. And
contrary to the advice on the Boos site, they use wire brushes to work
the surface.

If it's simply breaking down a chicken or cutting portions out of a
larger one, a cutting board of rock maple, oak, cherry or any of
several other woods is fine. You'll see those long workboards on the
back of butchers' meat display coolers where that last cut is often made.

Wood is what several of our worktables in my restaurant operations
were made of, specifically for those cutting purposes. Like the ones
on the page <http://johnboos.com/JBC_Web/jbc0006.asp> Do notice that
*all* the tables have edge-grain tops. I brought one tabletop home
from my last operation. It's 8 X 3 feet by 2 1/4 inches thick and
weighs a couple hundred pounds.

What's the difference what grain you use if you aren't going to
actually push a knife against it and cut it?

> Of course
> nowadays butchers, and all food prep venues are more and more switching
> to plastic and so should we all.

The gospel according to Cookie Katz. Sound and fury, as usual. So,
Sheldon, why should we even need cutting boards at all if knives don't
actually cut into them? Why not just put down an easy-to-sterilize
stainless counter top and cut on that - of course being careful not to
actually touch it, like you say should be the case...?

Maybe go to a neighbor's and ask to watch some professional cooks do
their thing on tv. Cooking in the navy 50 years ago is hardly
credentials for this modern world.

In another post today, you offer this:
--------------------
Learn from the masters... go here and click on "Tips":
http://johnboos.com/Default.htm

Don't forget to click on the "Sanitation" link too.
------------------

Right. And don't forget to look at the "specs" link where they show
all sorts of end- and edge-grain boards. And note that they make a
distinction between chopping blocks and cutting boards. Look at all
the pretty pictures including the professional edge-grain boards.

And they tell you how to refinish boards since it's to be expected
that knives will come into contact with the wood.

Hello

At the risk of invoking everyone's ire, I must say that I have seldom
seen so much written about so unimportant an area related to food
preparation. I came upon this thread rather late, and in simply reading
all the posts, my first impression was that I needed to "Google" the
topic "Death by Cutting Board". Please, let's not allow common sense to
be overcome by the fixation that bacteria of the deadly sort are
awaiting our next use of a kitchen utensils, especially a cutting board.
Get a grip people!

Regards

Jerry @ The Artisan
http://www.theartisan.net

On 2005-03-09, Jerry DeAngelis > wrote:

> Get a grip people!

Cite please! After googling for *grip* I can find no substantiation
to your claim. In 4 decades of cooking I have never found a grip to
be either a valid sanitizing agent or preservative of cutting boards.
Furthermore, it's been my experience..... ;P

nb

On Tue 08 Mar 2005 08:17:32p, notbob wrote in rec.food.cooking:

> On 2005-03-09, Jerry DeAngelis > wrote:
>
>> Get a grip people!
>
> Cite please! After googling for *grip* I can find no substantiation
> to your claim. In 4 decades of cooking I have never found a grip to
> be either a valid sanitizing agent or preservative of cutting boards.
> Furthermore, it's been my experience..... ;P
>
> nb

But, nb, you're just so much more experienced than most! ;-)



--
Wayne Boatwright
____________________________________________

Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day.
Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974

NB

Finally a cogent reply!

Please cite your experience with "grip-less" utensils, and the
sanitizing thereof.

Regards

Jerry


"notbob" > wrote in message
...
> On 2005-03-09, Jerry DeAngelis > wrote:
>
>> Get a grip people!
>
> Cite please! After googling for *grip* I can find no substantiation
> to your claim. In 4 decades of cooking I have never found a grip to
> be either a valid sanitizing agent or preservative of cutting boards.
> Furthermore, it's been my experience..... ;P
>
> nb
>
>

Katra wrote:
> In article >,
> Wayne Boatwright > wrote:
>
> > I just caught this on the tube, for periodic cutting board
cleaning:
> >
> > Make a paste of dry cleanser (such as Comet), and water. Spread it
evenly
> > over the cutting surface and allow to dry overnight. Next day,
rinse
> > thoroughly under warm water using a paper towel to rub off any
excess
> > cleanser.
> >
> > Sprinkle wet cutting board liberally with Kosher salt. Scour salt
on the
> > board with a half lemon until salt is dissolved. Give a final
quick rinse
> > under warm water and let dry.
> >
> > This is said to sanitize and remove stains.
> >
> > Since I use polypropylene and nylon cutting boards, I'll just keep
this for
> > reference.
>
> Cool tips! :-)
>
> For mine, I just scrub it off with warm soapy water from the dishpan
> every time I'm done using it and set it upright to dry.
>
> When it starts getting dark or stained, I spread lemon juice over the

> board and let it sit for awhile, then wash/rinse as usual. I've found

> that lemon juice bleaches it nicely without damaging the wood.
>
> I guess the salt might be a better sanitizer tho'?

I no longer use wood boards for wet food prep, I've switched to
plastic... they're inexpensive so I've amassed an assortment and
naturally they go in the dishwasher. My nice wood boards are now used
more as serving platters; cheese, dry sausage, fresh fruit, crackers,
bread... a paddle board is my favorite sandwich dish, for prep and
eating from. I occasionally coat my wood boards with beeswax... a
light rinse is the most that's necessary, often just brush off the
crumbs with a clean dry towel.

Btw, those who tend to slice or otherwise hack up their cutting boards
(whether wood or plastic) are in dire need of training in how to
correctly wield kitchen cutlery... there is never a reason to leave
knife marks, also means your knives are dull... not only are the boards
ruined so are the knives... and it's a sign that the food was hacked,
not sliced... may as well have prepped that onion by heaving it against
a brick wall. I actually know someone who shows off her hacked up
boards, as a symbol of her culinary experience, NOT. I'm always
facinated by the folks who purchase the most expensive top of the line
cutlery and then I see their gouged/slashed boards... just like the
people who need a $150 sauce pan to heat canned soup.

Sheldon

On 5 Mar 2005 21:31:37 +0100, Wayne Boatwright
> wrote:

>I just caught this on the tube, for periodic cutting board cleaning:
>
>Make a paste of dry cleanser (such as Comet), and water. Spread it evenly
>over the cutting surface and allow to dry overnight. Next day, rinse
>thoroughly under warm water using a paper towel to rub off any excess
>cleanser.
>
>Sprinkle wet cutting board liberally with Kosher salt. Scour salt on the
>board with a half lemon until salt is dissolved. Give a final quick rinse
>under warm water and let dry.
>
>This is said to sanitize and remove stains.
>
>Since I use polypropylene and nylon cutting boards, I'll just keep this for
>reference.

Howdy,

For plastic, the dishwasher is probably the way to go.

For wood, the above is certainly over-kill (and would damage
the surface of the board.)

All the best,

--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

On Sat 05 Mar 2005 04:24:51p, Kenneth wrote in rec.food.cooking:

> On 5 Mar 2005 21:31:37 +0100, Wayne Boatwright
> > wrote:
>
>>I just caught this on the tube, for periodic cutting board cleaning:
>>
>>Make a paste of dry cleanser (such as Comet), and water. Spread it
>>evenly over the cutting surface and allow to dry overnight. Next day,
>>rinse thoroughly under warm water using a paper towel to rub off any
>>excess cleanser.
>>
>>Sprinkle wet cutting board liberally with Kosher salt. Scour salt on
>>the board with a half lemon until salt is dissolved. Give a final quick
>>rinse under warm water and let dry.
>>
>>This is said to sanitize and remove stains.
>>
>>Since I use polypropylene and nylon cutting boards, I'll just keep this
>>for reference.
>
> Howdy,
>
> For plastic, the dishwasher is probably the way to go.
>
> For wood, the above is certainly over-kill (and would damage
> the surface of the board.)
>
> All the best,
>

My poly and nylon boards go in the D/W after every use.

The treatment for wood was suggested for only occasional use. I doubt this
would do much damage when done infrequently.

--
Wayne Boatwright
____________________________________________

Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day.
Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974

In article >,
Kenneth > wrote:

> For plastic, the dishwasher is probably the way to go.
>
> For wood, the above is certainly over-kill (and would damage
> the surface of the board.)

Indeed. I'd worry about interfering with its ability to kill salmonella.

Priscilla
--
"And what's this crap about Sodomites? It's always Sodomites this and
Sodomites that. What about us Gomorrahians? We were there too; we
deserve some mention. Sodom always gets the credit, and Gomorrah always
does the work." - JohnN in alt.religion.christian.episcopal

Wayne Boatwright wrote:

> I just caught this on the tube, for periodic cutting board cleaning:
>
> Make a paste of dry cleanser (such as Comet), and water. Spread it evenly
> over the cutting surface and allow to dry overnight. Next day, rinse
> thoroughly under warm water using a paper towel to rub off any excess
> cleanser.

Essentially, this is concentratedly bleaching the wood and it will do
several undesirable things: It will raise the grain and make the wood
rough. It will penetrate the wood and flavor foods cut on it. It will
pull out any oil that's preserving the wood.

> Sprinkle wet cutting board liberally with Kosher salt. Scour salt on the
> board with a half lemon until salt is dissolved. Give a final quick rinse
> under warm water and let dry.

Jeez, this is harsh and unnecessary. The salt acts as an abrasive and
the lemon juice is just more of (a different) bleach. This will
aggravate the first step's injuries even more without adding any
sanitizing value.

> This is said to sanitize and remove stains.

Sanitizing is a lot easier than that. A 5% bleach solution will do the
same thing with less damage to the wood. I note that there's no
instruction about smoothing the wood after the treatments above. This
advice is seriously suspect. The wood will be showing splinters after
this procedure.

The best sanitizer and oxygen bleaching technique I've seen and used
is to spray white vinegar and peroxide from different containers
simultaneously onto the board surface. Let sit for a few minutes,
wipe, rinse and let air dry. The combination of the two sanitizes as
well as or better than bleach. And it's less damaging to the wood.
Leaves no taste on the wood and no harsh smell in the air.

And the boards should be oiled to keep the surface a bit more
impermeable to liquids. I use any oil but olive but there are
crusaders who say that it will become rancid and your hair will fall
out and other dire predictions. They say that only mineral oil will
do. My experience days otherwise. That works for furniture, not
cutting boards. I have a pecan wood cutting board in my kitchen that
my grandfather made more than a century ago and it's been oiled with
whatever oil was at hand, including olive back in the day. It smells
clean and appetizing.

When they get rough from all that cutting, a little sandpaper or, for
those in the restaurant biz, a grill screen will take down the surface
a tiny bit and restore the smoothness.

That whole argument about whether they're antibacterial still rages
with neither side producing any convincing evidence. Best to think
they're not and treat them accordingly. This is one bet you don't want
to lose.

> Since I use polypropylene and nylon cutting boards, I'll just keep this for
> reference.

Those boards profit from a dishwashing machine. That's where mine go.
Come out clean and sanitized.

Pastorio

On Sat 05 Mar 2005 10:18:16p, Bob (this one) wrote in rec.food.cooking:

> Wayne Boatwright wrote:
>
>> I just caught this on the tube, for periodic cutting board cleaning:
>>
>> Make a paste of dry cleanser (such as Comet), and water. Spread it
>> evenly over the cutting surface and allow to dry overnight. Next day,
>> rinse thoroughly under warm water using a paper towel to rub off any
>> excess cleanser.
>
> Essentially, this is concentratedly bleaching the wood and it will do
> several undesirable things: It will raise the grain and make the wood
> rough. It will penetrate the wood and flavor foods cut on it. It will
> pull out any oil that's preserving the wood.

Perhaps so, I never tried it. We've never used cleanser or bleach.

>> Sprinkle wet cutting board liberally with Kosher salt. Scour salt on
>> the board with a half lemon until salt is dissolved. Give a final
>> quick rinse under warm water and let dry.
>
> Jeez, this is harsh and unnecessary. The salt acts as an abrasive and
> the lemon juice is just more of (a different) bleach. This will
> aggravate the first step's injuries even more without adding any
> sanitizing value.

I can't agree with this being destructive. My mother had the same maple
cutting board for her entire married life and beyond, nearly 60 years. She
routinely sprinkled it with salt and rubbed it with a lemon. I have the
board now, and it's no worse for wear, although I don't use it. I don't
like wood. My kitchen moto is, "if it can't go in the dishwasher, it
simply doesn't get used."

>> This is said to sanitize and remove stains.
>
> Sanitizing is a lot easier than that. A 5% bleach solution will do the
> same thing with less damage to the wood. I note that there's no
> instruction about smoothing the wood after the treatments above. This
> advice is seriously suspect. The wood will be showing splinters after
> this procedure.

There is nary a splinter in my mother's old board after countless
salt/lemon scrubbings.

> The best sanitizer and oxygen bleaching technique I've seen and used
> is to spray white vinegar and peroxide from different containers
> simultaneously onto the board surface. Let sit for a few minutes,
> wipe, rinse and let air dry. The combination of the two sanitizes as
> well as or better than bleach. And it's less damaging to the wood.
> Leaves no taste on the wood and no harsh smell in the air.

This sounds like the best solution yet.

> And the boards should be oiled to keep the surface a bit more
> impermeable to liquids. I use any oil but olive but there are
> crusaders who say that it will become rancid and your hair will fall
> out and other dire predictions. They say that only mineral oil will
> do. My experience days otherwise. That works for furniture, not
> cutting boards. I have a pecan wood cutting board in my kitchen that
> my grandfather made more than a century ago and it's been oiled with
> whatever oil was at hand, including olive back in the day. It smells
> clean and appetizing.

Mom always oiled her cutting board after practically every use, or at least
after contact with liquid. I think she usually used vegetable oil.

> When they get rough from all that cutting, a little sandpaper or, for
> those in the restaurant biz, a grill screen will take down the surface
> a tiny bit and restore the smoothness.
>
> That whole argument about whether they're antibacterial still rages
> with neither side producing any convincing evidence. Best to think
> they're not and treat them accordingly. This is one bet you don't want
> to lose.
>
>> Since I use polypropylene and nylon cutting boards, I'll just keep this
>> for reference.
>
> Those boards profit from a dishwashing machine. That's where mine go.
> Come out clean and sanitized.

My poly and nulon boards go in the D/W after every use. I think they're
safe.

--
Wayne Boatwright
____________________________________________

Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day.
Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974

On 6 Mar 2005 06:42:09 +0100, Wayne Boatwright
> wrote:

>Mom always oiled her cutting board after practically every use, or at least
>after contact with liquid. I think she usually used vegetable oil.

Howdy,

If so, she was lucky that she did not lose the board to
rancidity... Mineral oil (from the pharmacy) is a much
better choice.

All the best,

--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

On Sun 06 Mar 2005 05:07:07a, Kenneth wrote in rec.food.cooking:

> On 6 Mar 2005 06:42:09 +0100, Wayne Boatwright
> > wrote:
>
>>Mom always oiled her cutting board after practically every use, or at
>>least after contact with liquid. I think she usually used vegetable
>>oil.
>
> Howdy,
>
> If so, she was lucky that she did not lose the board to
> rancidity... Mineral oil (from the pharmacy) is a much
> better choice.
>
> All the best,

It probably never had a chance. :-) The board was used daily, washed
daily, and oiled probably every few times after washing. It never sat
around long without use and allowing the oil to become old.

--
Wayne Boatwright
____________________________________________

Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day.
Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974

Kenneth wrote:

> On 6 Mar 2005 06:42:09 +0100, Wayne Boatwright
> > wrote:
>
>>Mom always oiled her cutting board after practically every use, or at least
>>after contact with liquid. I think she usually used vegetable oil.
>
> Howdy,
>
> If so, she was lucky that she did not lose the board to
> rancidity... Mineral oil (from the pharmacy) is a much
> better choice.

How, exactly, does one "lose the board to rancidity?" The mineral oil
mantra is a recent arrival on the wooden cutting board scene. It's
based on faith, not empirical fact.

A long time ago, it was animal fats. Butchers scraped their blocks and
rubbed them with lard or beef fat. Country people rubbed pig tails on
their skillets to grease them and their boards to "slick" them. Then
when liquid oils became available, they were used. Then the carpenters
and cabinetmakers got into the act and promoted mineral oil because it
works on armoires and dining room tables, and they just figured...
Normal people kept to food oils anyway, because they work just fine.

The simple fact is that food oils work. They get exchanged in the
course of normal use and cleaning so that they need replacement
periodically. In the decades I've been in professional food service,
using wooden boards which we oiled with any of several different kinds
of food oils, not once have I ever seen or heard anyone else in the
business say their boards smelled rancid. In nearly 20 years of
dealing with kitchen questions on my radio program, amid all the other
calls I've dealt with about cutting boards, not one person has ever
raised the question of rancidity and their boards. In writing a couple
thousand articles and columns about food and cooking, not once has
anyone ever emailed me about rancid boards, although I've gotten them
on myriad other cutting board and chopping block issues.

Forget that business about mineral oil. It's not necessary.

Pastorio

On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 01:29:57 -0500, "Bob (this one)"
> wrote:

>Kenneth wrote:
>
>> On 6 Mar 2005 06:42:09 +0100, Wayne Boatwright
>> > wrote:
>>
>>>Mom always oiled her cutting board after practically every use, or at least
>>>after contact with liquid. I think she usually used vegetable oil.
>>
>> Howdy,
>>
>> If so, she was lucky that she did not lose the board to
>> rancidity... Mineral oil (from the pharmacy) is a much
>> better choice.
>
>How, exactly, does one "lose the board to rancidity?" The mineral oil
>mantra is a recent arrival on the wooden cutting board scene. It's
>based on faith, not empirical fact.
>
>A long time ago, it was animal fats. Butchers scraped their blocks and
>rubbed them with lard or beef fat. Country people rubbed pig tails on
>their skillets to grease them and their boards to "slick" them. Then
>when liquid oils became available, they were used. Then the carpenters
>and cabinetmakers got into the act and promoted mineral oil because it
>works on armoires and dining room tables, and they just figured...
>Normal people kept to food oils anyway, because they work just fine.
>
>The simple fact is that food oils work. They get exchanged in the
>course of normal use and cleaning so that they need replacement
>periodically. In the decades I've been in professional food service,
>using wooden boards which we oiled with any of several different kinds
>of food oils, not once have I ever seen or heard anyone else in the
>business say their boards smelled rancid. In nearly 20 years of
>dealing with kitchen questions on my radio program, amid all the other
>calls I've dealt with about cutting boards, not one person has ever
>raised the question of rancidity and their boards. In writing a couple
>thousand articles and columns about food and cooking, not once has
>anyone ever emailed me about rancid boards, although I've gotten them
>on myriad other cutting board and chopping block issues.
>
>Forget that business about mineral oil. It's not necessary.
>
>Pastorio

Hi Bob,

Might you explain to me what it is about cutting boards that
prevents vegetable oils from becoming rancid? (Or do you
believe that characteristic of vegetable oil to be a myth as
well.)

Thanks,



--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 01:29:57 -0500, "Bob (this one)" >
wrote:

>
>A long time ago, it was animal fats. Butchers scraped their blocks and
>rubbed them with lard or beef fat. Country people rubbed pig tails on
>their skillets to grease them and their boards to "slick" them. Then
>when liquid oils became available, they were used. Then the carpenters
>and cabinetmakers got into the act and promoted mineral oil because it
>works on armoires and dining room tables, and they just figured...
>Normal people kept to food oils anyway, because they work just fine.


Ahem-- Cabinetmakers use hardening oils, like "boiled" linseed and
tung.Mineral oil doesn't polymerize. But woodworkers get nervous when
they make cutting boards and salad bowls, because their normal
finishing materials aren't rated for contact with food.

Mineral oil (USP) at least won't poison anyone, even if it does the
cutting board no good.



Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a


"Be careful. The toe you stepped on yesterday may be connected to the ass you have to kiss today." --Former mayor Ciancia

To my mind, the most important thing with porous boards such as wooden
ones, is to limit the amount of grot that soaks into it. To achieve
this, my personal preference is simply to wet the board with tap water
before each use, and rinse it off quickly with hot water after. It
then gets washed before the dishes (but usually after the plonk
glasses at the usual time -- and given a bit of a scrub with a nail
brush. I've been using the same 12" bit of 7" by 1/2" pine plank for
about 40 years without problems. (Mind you, it doesn't *look* the
best these days, but neither does anything else 40 years older.)

In article >,
Wayne Boatwright > wrote:
>I just caught this on the tube, for periodic cutting board cleaning:
>
>Make a paste of dry cleanser (such as Comet), and water. Spread it evenly
>over the cutting surface and allow to dry overnight. Next day, rinse
>thoroughly under warm water using a paper towel to rub off any excess
>cleanser.
>
>Sprinkle wet cutting board liberally with Kosher salt. Scour salt on the
>board with a half lemon until salt is dissolved. Give a final quick rinse
>under warm water and let dry.
>
>This is said to sanitize and remove stains.
>
>Since I use polypropylene and nylon cutting boards, I'll just keep this for
>reference.

Cheers, Phred.

--
LID

> pontificating projectile prattle:
>> That scraping business will tear up the grain on flat side-grain
>> boards and any made from soft woods.


>No, it won't. Woodworkers have known for centuries that using a
scraper
>will produce a *smoother* finish than sanding, especially on hardwood.


Absolutely. Centuries, try many millennia... man has been finish
smoothing woods with scrapers since well before he had metal.... many
crafts requiring highly skilled woodworkers are still plied with
scrapers of stone and bone. Btw, the bits of grit composing sand paper
are in fact nothing more than miniature scrapers, which of course tear
up wood surfaces far more than do broad edge blade scrapers. Man has
always had sand, and used sand, for rough finishing... but for final
smoothing (and precision dimensioning) scraping is and always has been
the preferred method.... is how the stones comprising pyramids were
made to such exacting standards.

>I regularly scrape my rock maple cutting board with the *back* edge of

>my chef's knife, especially after the board's gotten wet. You'd be
>amazed at the amount of greasy "gunk" that shows up on the knife. And
>the board is *smooth* and much lighter in color, too.

Exactly what's recommended at johnboos.com

>I do the same thing with my plastic cutting sheets, too. The amount of

>gunk is even more amazing, considering that I clean those with hot
soapy
>water and a green "scrubber".

That's because many plastics are actually porous and absorb fats just
like woods.

>I have heard that professional butchers scrape their carving blocks.
>Isaac

Of course they do, those who still use wood... more and more butchering
is turning towards plastic... then the cleaning tool of choice is steam
and high pressure washers, same way the entire butchering facility is
cleaned.... no chemical disinfectants are permitted, no bleach, no
peroxide, not even salt or citrus... just H2O... ever you visit your
local stupidmarket after hours, when meat cutting is done for the day
and the cleaning crew is doing it's thing peer through the customer
service window.... drive around back and you'll see the truck with the
high pressure steam generator.... set up is pretty much like mobile
carpet cleaners use, only the hose goes in to do the business. Some
stupid market chains hire their own crew, some contract the job.. the
cleaning crew goes from butcher shop to butcher shop all night. Anyone
one tells you commercial food handling facilities are cleaned by some
putz with a spritz bottle and a schmatah, is a friggin' liar, a really
dumb schmuck, both.

Scrapers have always been and are still the primary wood smoothing
tools of highly skilled professional wood workers... all the proof
anyone needs is to observe musical instrument cabinetry makers and wood
boat builders plying their crafts. Even metal and stone are smoothed
with scrapers; that's how precision machine beds are finished, and
ultra precision granite surface plates recieve final dimensioning by
hand scraping... the journal bearing surfaces of blue printed internal
combustion engines, such as used in racing cars, are fitted and
smoothed by hand scraping. There are also scraping machines, but final
scraping is done by hand.

Don't believe, go to leevalley.com and search <scrapers>

http://www.leevalley.com/home/Search.aspx?c=2&action=n

Isaac W. writes:
Woodworkers have known for centuries that using a scraper
will produce a *smoother* finish than sanding, especially on hardwood.

Try many millenia. And not just hardwoods.

Go to leevalley.com and seach <scrapers>

Btw, the individual pieces of grit comprising sand paper is each a
miniature scraper... but no sandpaper can smooth (and/or dimension)
wood surfaces as well as broad edged scrapers. Sand paper should never
be used on woods that will be used for foods, especially not on end
grains... the wood will load with grit that will later release into the
food... no steelwool either.

Sheldon wrote:

> Sand paper should never
> be used on woods that will be used for foods, especially not on end
> grains... the wood will load with grit that will later release into the
> food... no steelwool either.

Um, nonsense. The sites you posted the other day for Boos products
says otherwise. <LOL> I love it when you cite authorities and then
contradict them. Cutting boards are routinely finish-sanded.

Sand the wood, wipe with an oiled cloth and wash. Dry. Use.

Pastorio

OK, what I used to clean wooden meat blocks for 25 years was wet course salt
and a wire brush.
Then after a good scrub you rinse the block and use a meat scraper on the
area while it was still wet. The places I was in you would use a hose so I
don't think you can use too much water.

These meat blocks were both end grain and long grain from 4 ft. square to
4ft by 8ft. Some of the tops had "divots" in them because you processed
millions of pounds of the flesh of dead animals. If these holes got to bad
the tops would be sent out to cutoff enough to get them flat again.
The salt helped with bacteria control and enough of an abrasive to work.
Thank God I don't do this type of work anymore.

"Bob (this one)" > wrote in message
...
> Sheldon wrote:
>
> > Sand paper should never
>> be used on woods that will be used for foods, especially not on end
>> grains... the wood will load with grit that will later release into the
>> food... no steelwool either.
>
> Um, nonsense. The sites you posted the other day for Boos products says
> otherwise. <LOL> I love it when you cite authorities and then contradict
> them. Cutting boards are routinely finish-sanded.
>
> Sand the wood, wipe with an oiled cloth and wash. Dry. Use.
>
> Pastorio
>

Emil Luca wrote:

> OK, what I used to clean wooden meat blocks for 25 years was wet course salt
> and a wire brush.
> Then after a good scrub you rinse the block and use a meat scraper on the
> area while it was still wet. The places I was in you would use a hose so I
> don't think you can use too much water.

Reasonably normal daily cleaning approach for meat cutting operations.


> These meat blocks were both end grain and long grain from 4 ft. square to
> 4ft by 8ft. Some of the tops had "divots" in them because you processed
> millions of pounds of the flesh of dead animals. If these holes got to bad
> the tops would be sent out to cutoff enough to get them flat again.

We used to have our tables planed like this about once a year.

> The salt helped with bacteria control and enough of an abrasive to work.
> Thank God I don't do this type of work anymore.

Understand. I don't think people understand how much work goes into
their dinners. I got out of owning and running restaurants after a few
decades, myself. There was a lot that I liked, but 90 hour weeks
wasn't on the list.

Pastorio