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QUESTION: cast iron
Hello,
I inheirited a very black cast-iron pan from my mom. I enjoy cooking in it--it is very nonstick and it seems easy to clean by simply deglazing with hot water and scrubbing well with my regular nylon dish-cleaning brush. After each use, I dry the skillet thoroughly and apply a thin layer of canola oil. In fact, I'm a bit obsessive about this. My problem is this: I keep getting rust spots developing on the bottom of the pan. I can always remove them by scrubbing the spots with a mixture of salt and oil, but they keep coming back. Also, on the other side (the cooking side), it _looks_ like there may be rust _under_ the blackened patina. It's very hard to tell--it's not obviously dry, powdery rust like I get on the bottom, and the way that light reflects off the surface, the redness may be a figment of my imagination. I do not know how well the pan was treated before I got it, but I am guessing not very well. It was sitting in my parents' basement for years before I rescued it. They probably got it from my grandma, who was a notoriously bad cook. My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina layer? If there is, I think I'm just going to buy a new skillet, since it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then remove all the rust, then reseason when I can get a new, preseasoned skillet for twenty bucks at Amazon. Thoughts? Thanks, Matt |
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On Wed 30 Mar 2005 06:49:00p, wrote in rec.food.cooking:
> Hello, > > I inheirited a very black cast-iron pan from my mom. I enjoy cooking > in it--it is very nonstick and it seems easy to clean by simply > deglazing with hot water and scrubbing well with my regular nylon > dish-cleaning brush. After each use, I dry the skillet thoroughly and > apply a thin layer of canola oil. In fact, I'm a bit obsessive about > this. > > My problem is this: I keep getting rust spots developing on the bottom > of the pan. I can always remove them by scrubbing the spots with a > mixture of salt and oil, but they keep coming back. Also, on the other > side (the cooking side), it _looks_ like there may be rust _under_ the > blackened patina. It's very hard to tell--it's not obviously dry, > powdery rust like I get on the bottom, and the way that light reflects > off the surface, the redness may be a figment of my imagination. > > I do not know how well the pan was treated before I got it, but I am > guessing not very well. It was sitting in my parents' basement for > years before I rescued it. They probably got it from my grandma, who > was a notoriously bad cook. > > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina > layer? If there is, I think I'm just going to buy a new skillet, since > it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then > remove all the rust, then reseason when I can get a new, preseasoned > skillet for twenty bucks at Amazon. > > Thoughts? > > Thanks, > Matt Really hard to say without seeing it, but why invite trouble? If it cooks well and the surface is well-seasoned, I would try anything else with it. When you've cleaned off the rust on the bottom, why not coat the entire pan with solid shortening or oil and bake it in a slow oven. You might want to repeat this several times. I don't think you need a new pan. -- Wayne Boatwright ____________________________________________ Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day. Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974 |
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wrote: > Hello, > > I inheirited a very black cast-iron pan from my mom. I enjoy cooking > in it--it is very nonstick and it seems easy to clean by simply > deglazing with hot water and scrubbing well with my regular nylon > dish-cleaning brush. After each use, I dry the skillet thoroughly and > apply a thin layer of canola oil. In fact, I'm a bit obsessive about > this. > > My problem is this: I keep getting rust spots developing on the bottom > of the pan. I can always remove them by scrubbing the spots with a > mixture of salt and oil, but they keep coming back. Also, on the other > side (the cooking side), it _looks_ like there may be rust _under_ the > blackened patina. It's very hard to tell--it's not obviously dry, > powdery rust like I get on the bottom, and the way that light reflects > off the surface, the redness may be a figment of my imagination. > > I do not know how well the pan was treated before I got it, but I am > guessing not very well. It was sitting in my parents' basement for > years before I rescued it. They probably got it from my grandma, who > was a notoriously bad cook. > > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina > layer? If there is, I think I'm just going to buy a new skillet, since > it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then > remove all the rust, then reseason when I can get a new, preseasoned > skillet for twenty bucks at Amazon. A pan that old cries out for reseasoning. Could well be badly rusted below a thick layer of burned on food... only way to know if the pan is worth salvaging is to totally remove everything down to bare metal. If badly pitted it's not worth saving, use it for a door stop. Like you said, cast iron cookware is very inexpensive, get a new one. |
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well, maybe i should add that my secret reason is that i want to
'start' a cast-iron pan so that it will be _my_ baby, not my grandmother's, and i am looking for an excuse  thanks for your help. |
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On Wed 30 Mar 2005 08:01:07p, wrote in rec.food.cooking:
> well, maybe i should add that my secret reason is that i want to > 'start' a cast-iron pan so that it will be _my_ baby, not my > grandmother's, and i am looking for an excuse > > thanks for your help. LOL! Then do both! One cast iron pan is never enough anyway. <g> -- Wayne Boatwright ____________________________________________ Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day. Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974 |
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In > Wayne Boatwright wrote:
> On Wed 30 Mar 2005 08:01:07p, wrote in rec.food.cooking: > >> well, maybe i should add that my secret reason is that i want to >> 'start' a cast-iron pan so that it will be _my_ baby, not my >> grandmother's, and i am looking for an excuse >> >> thanks for your help. > > LOL! Then do both! One cast iron pan is never enough anyway. <g> Oh yeah, first the pan and then the pot... -- Cheers Dennis Remove 'Elle-Kabong' to reply |
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In article . com>,
"Sheldon" > wrote: > wrote: > > Hello, > > > > I inheirited a very black cast-iron pan from my mom. I enjoy cooking > > in it--it is very nonstick and it seems easy to clean by simply > > deglazing with hot water and scrubbing well with my regular nylon > > dish-cleaning brush. After each use, I dry the skillet thoroughly > and > > apply a thin layer of canola oil. In fact, I'm a bit obsessive about > > this. > > > > My problem is this: I keep getting rust spots developing on the > bottom > > of the pan. I can always remove them by scrubbing the spots with a > > mixture of salt and oil, but they keep coming back. Also, on the > other > > side (the cooking side), it _looks_ like there may be rust _under_ > the > > blackened patina. It's very hard to tell--it's not obviously dry, > > powdery rust like I get on the bottom, and the way that light > reflects > > off the surface, the redness may be a figment of my imagination. > > > > I do not know how well the pan was treated before I got it, but I am > > guessing not very well. It was sitting in my parents' basement for > > years before I rescued it. They probably got it from my grandma, who > > was a notoriously bad cook. > > > > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina > > layer? If there is, I think I'm just going to buy a new skillet, > since > > it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then > > remove all the rust, then reseason when I can get a new, preseasoned > > skillet for twenty bucks at Amazon. > > A pan that old cries out for reseasoning. Could well be badly rusted > below a thick layer of burned on food... only way to know if the pan is > worth salvaging is to totally remove everything down to bare metal. If > badly pitted it's not worth saving, use it for a door stop. Like you > said, cast iron cookware is very inexpensive, get a new one. > Philistine!!! That's blasphemy! -- K. |
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In article . com>,
wrote: > well, maybe i should add that my secret reason is that i want to > 'start' a cast-iron pan so that it will be _my_ baby, not my > grandmother's, and i am looking for an excuse > > thanks for your help. > Ok! Send me your old pan. ;-) I'll even pay for postage! I love old, antique pans... All of the new Lodge crap on the market is no comparison to old antique pans! I'll treasure it like your grandmother did! Remove the "mungbean" and this e-mail address works! -- K. Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada >,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,< http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
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In article >,
Wayne Boatwright > wrote: > On Wed 30 Mar 2005 08:01:07p, wrote in rec.food.cooking: > > > well, maybe i should add that my secret reason is that i want to > > 'start' a cast-iron pan so that it will be _my_ baby, not my > > grandmother's, and i am looking for an excuse > > > > thanks for your help. > > LOL! Then do both! One cast iron pan is never enough anyway. <g> <snicker> Too true... I have a #8, #10, #12 and a #14 Griswold. I use the #14 for roasting! It fits a 20 lbs. turkey and is a breeze to clean! I also have a little 6" pan of unknown origin. It's great for omelets. -- K. Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada >,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,< http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
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> wrote in message oups.com... > Hello, > > I inheirited a very black cast-iron pan from my mom. I enjoy cooking > in it--it is very nonstick and it seems easy to clean by simply > deglazing with hot water and scrubbing well with my regular nylon > dish-cleaning brush. After each use, I dry the skillet thoroughly and > apply a thin layer of canola oil. In fact, I'm a bit obsessive about > this. > > My problem is this: I keep getting rust spots developing on the bottom > of the pan. I can always remove them by scrubbing the spots with a > mixture of salt and oil, but they keep coming back. Also, on the other > side (the cooking side), it _looks_ like there may be rust _under_ the > blackened patina. It's very hard to tell--it's not obviously dry, > powdery rust like I get on the bottom, and the way that light reflects > off the surface, the redness may be a figment of my imagination. > > I do not know how well the pan was treated before I got it, but I am > guessing not very well. It was sitting in my parents' basement for > years before I rescued it. They probably got it from my grandma, who > was a notoriously bad cook. > > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina > layer? If there is, I think I'm just going to buy a new skillet, since > it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then > remove all the rust, then reseason when I can get a new, preseasoned > skillet for twenty bucks at Amazon. > always a dilemma. One thing I would suggest is not to scrub with salt, it may well be the salt which is causing the rust. The chloride in th salt combines with hydrogen in the water to form hydrochloric acid which dissolves some of the iron forming iron chloride, which hyrolyses forming iron oxide (the rust) and more hyrochloric acid, ad infinitum. So, do not use salt. Nearly all my pans/skillets are cast iron. I find I can use mild detergent and still retain the non-stick surface patina, evindenced by the way the water forms small droplets after rincing. I would say, like you, thorough drying is very important. HTH cheers Wazza |
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On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:36:06 +0000 (UTC), "Wazza"
> wrote: >The chloride in th salt combines with hydrogen in >the water to form hydrochloric acid which dissolves some of the iron forming >iron chloride, which hyrolyses forming iron oxide (the rust) and more >hyrochloric acid, ad infinitum. Howdy, 'Sorry, but when salt is mixed with water, there is no hydrochloric acid formed. All the best, -- Kenneth If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS." |
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If that were true then we would have nasty acid burns from canned soup
and vegetables! When you dissolve salt in water, you get salt water. Both H2O and NACl are very stable compounds and it would take quite a lot of energy to make them separate into their elements (H and O or NA and Cl) which is what would be required to enable them to recombine in to HCl. What's happening is the iron is oxidizing when exposed to the air (which has O2). The salt is acting as an abrasive and removing the surface rust and exposing iron that hasn't corroded. I would suggest oiling the surface that is rusting. And not using salt because it's abrasive properties may remove the oil. Heidi |
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Heidi wrote:
> If that were true then we would have nasty acid burns from canned soup > and vegetables! When you dissolve salt in water, you get salt water. > Both H2O and NACl are very stable compounds and it would take quite a > lot of energy to make them separate into their elements (H and O or NA > and Cl) which is what would be required to enable them to recombine in > to HCl. > > What's happening is the iron is oxidizing when exposed to the air > (which has O2). The salt is acting as an abrasive and removing the > surface rust and exposing iron that hasn't corroded. > > I would suggest oiling the surface that is rusting. And not using salt > because it's abrasive properties may remove the oil. > > Heidi > Not only that - salt water gargles for sore gums, etc. would light you up like a burning bush were it HCl. jim |
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Far as I can tell, someone wrote:
>it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then >remove all the rust, then reseason Blasphemy! Why not buy some newly made antiques while your at it...? Just wash it thoroughly in very soapy water. Maybe twice. It'll take ten minutes. Dry immediately. Coat the entire thing with olive oil and stick it in the oven for two hours at 300 or so. Done. Like new. |
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Petey the Wonder Dog wrote: > Far as I can tell, someone wrote: > >it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then > >remove all the rust, then reseason > > Blasphemy! > > Why not buy some newly made antiques while your at it...? > > Just wash it thoroughly in very soapy water. Maybe twice. It'll take ten minutes. > > Dry immediately. > > Coat the entire thing with olive oil and stick it in the oven for two hours at 300 or > so. > > Done. Like new. Really not worth it if it's pock marked from rust acne... if you can't bare to part with the olde piece of crap use it for a decorative plant saucer. Contrary to what some may want to believe modern metalurgy has made possible far, FAR better quality cast iron than was used in those antiques... and don't buy any cast iron cookware with machined surfaces, those are totally worthless. Sheldon |
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On 31 Mar 2005 11:20:38 -0800, "Heidi" > wrote:
>If that were true then we would have nasty acid burns from canned soup >and vegetables! When you dissolve salt in water, you get salt water. >Both H2O and NACl are very stable compounds and it would take quite a >lot of energy to make them separate into their elements (H and O or NA >and Cl) which is what would be required to enable them to recombine in >to HCl. > >What's happening is the iron is oxidizing when exposed to the air >(which has O2). The salt is acting as an abrasive and removing the >surface rust and exposing iron that hasn't corroded. > >I would suggest oiling the surface that is rusting. And not using salt >because it's abrasive properties may remove the oil. > All true. But, I scrub the insides of cast iron pans with salt DRY rubbed around with a paper towel. This doesnt remove the seasoning of the pan. A fresh-water rinse gets the salt off without disturbing the seasoning. I have seen rust spots on the bootom outside. I don't worry about that. Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a MOM CASTS TOT IN CEMENT Most experts voice cautious optimism |
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In article >,
Kenneth > wrote: > On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:36:06 +0000 (UTC), "Wazza" > > wrote: > > >The chloride in th salt combines with hydrogen in > >the water to form hydrochloric acid which dissolves some of the iron forming > >iron chloride, which hyrolyses forming iron oxide (the rust) and more > >hyrochloric acid, ad infinitum. > > Howdy, > > 'Sorry, but when salt is mixed with water, there is no > hydrochloric acid formed. > > All the best, > -- > Kenneth True... but salt/water is still nearly as caustic. ;-) -- K. |
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In article >,
Petey the Wonder Dog > wrote: > Far as I can tell, someone wrote: > >it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, then > >remove all the rust, then reseason > > Blasphemy! > > Why not buy some newly made antiques while your at it...? > > Just wash it thoroughly in very soapy water. Maybe twice. It'll take ten > minutes. > > Dry immediately. > > Coat the entire thing with olive oil and stick it in the oven for two hours > at 300 or > so. > > Done. Like new. <applause!!!> -- K. |
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In article . com>,
"Sheldon" > wrote: > Petey the Wonder Dog wrote: > > Far as I can tell, someone wrote: > > >it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, > then > > >remove all the rust, then reseason > > > > Blasphemy! > > > > Why not buy some newly made antiques while your at it...? > > > > Just wash it thoroughly in very soapy water. Maybe twice. It'll take > ten minutes. > > > > Dry immediately. > > > > Coat the entire thing with olive oil and stick it in the oven for two > hours at 300 or > > so. > > > > Done. Like new. > > Really not worth it if it's pock marked from rust acne... if you can't > bare to part with the olde piece of crap use it for a decorative plant > saucer. Contrary to what some may want to believe modern metalurgy has > made possible far, FAR better quality cast iron than was used in those > antiques... and don't buy any cast iron cookware with machined > surfaces, those are totally worthless. > > Sheldon > Blech. ;-P I have yet to find a modern piece of iron pan crap that is ANY comparison to the beauty and non-stickedness of my old antique Griswolds! Shel' honey, I don't understand why you get involved in the cast iron threads! You don't use the stuff so you have no clu'. ;-) Hugs! Kat -- K. |
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In article om>,
"Heidi" > wrote: > If that were true then we would have nasty acid burns from canned soup > and vegetables! When you dissolve salt in water, you get salt water. > Both H2O and NACl are very stable compounds and it would take quite a > lot of energy to make them separate into their elements (H and O or NA > and Cl) which is what would be required to enable them to recombine in > to HCl. When dissolved in water, there are natural concentrations of [OH] and [H] (H_3 O? It's been a long time since chemistry.). There's something like 10^-7 mols of ions per dl^3. The exponent there is what gives you the pH of 7. Salt dissolved in water also separates into [Na] and [Cl] to a fairly large extent, IIRC. So does HCl. In particularly, what makes HCl such a strong acid is that it disassociates a lot and gives you a lot of excess hydrogen ions which get to react with everything. Or something like that. Aaron |
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In article <abergman-8086D2.01584301042005@localhost>,
Aaron Bergman > wrote: > In article om>, > "Heidi" > wrote: > > > If that were true then we would have nasty acid burns from canned soup > > and vegetables! When you dissolve salt in water, you get salt water. > > Both H2O and NACl are very stable compounds and it would take quite a > > lot of energy to make them separate into their elements (H and O or NA > > and Cl) which is what would be required to enable them to recombine in > > to HCl. > > When dissolved in water, there are natural concentrations of [OH] and > [H] (H_3 O? It's been a long time since chemistry.). There's something > like 10^-7 mols of ions per dl^3. The exponent there is what gives you > the pH of 7. Salt dissolved in water also separates into [Na] and [Cl] > to a fairly large extent, IIRC. So does HCl. In particularly, what makes > HCl such a strong acid is that it disassociates a lot and gives you a > lot of excess hydrogen ions which get to react with everything. > > Or something like that. > > Aaron Same for Sodium Hypochlorite.... ;-) But it's basic, not acidic, and still a terrible caustic. A 10% solution of NaOCl has a higher ionization potential than using it pure, so it has better disinfection properties. That is why we use a 10% solution on the counters in the lab at work. It kills all viruses and bacteria on contact. It'll also eat your skin, and ruin your clothing colors if you splash! And it'll kill you with the fumes if you mix it with HCl! We get people into the ER every spring that mix those two chemicals in the bathroom for spring cleaning. :-( Never mix ammonia and HCl either!!! Hell, never mix HCl with ANYTHING! While it's great for removing lime deposits quickly, it can be very dangerous if used carelessly. And never use it on Cast iron. ;-) -- K. |
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Katra wrote:
> In article >, > Kenneth > wrote: > > >>On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:36:06 +0000 (UTC), "Wazza" > wrote: >> >>>The chloride in th salt combines with hydrogen in >>>the water to form hydrochloric acid which dissolves some of the iron forming >>>iron chloride, which hyrolyses forming iron oxide (the rust) and more >>>hyrochloric acid, ad infinitum. >> >>Howdy, >> >>'Sorry, but when salt is mixed with water, there is no >>hydrochloric acid formed. >> >>All the best, >>-- >>Kenneth > > True... > but salt/water is still nearly as caustic. ;-) No. It really isn't. Wholly different effects from wholly different processes. Salt water won't dissolve you like HCL will. Pastorio |
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In article >,
"Bob (this one)" > wrote: > Katra wrote: > > In article >, > > Kenneth > wrote: > > > > > >>On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:36:06 +0000 (UTC), "Wazza" > > wrote: > >> > >>>The chloride in th salt combines with hydrogen in > >>>the water to form hydrochloric acid which dissolves some of the iron > >>>forming > >>>iron chloride, which hyrolyses forming iron oxide (the rust) and more > >>>hyrochloric acid, ad infinitum. > >> > >>Howdy, > >> > >>'Sorry, but when salt is mixed with water, there is no > >>hydrochloric acid formed. > >> > >>All the best, > >>-- > >>Kenneth > > > > True... > > but salt/water is still nearly as caustic. ;-) > > No. It really isn't. Wholly different effects from wholly different > processes. Salt water won't dissolve you like HCL will. > > Pastorio It won't dissolve ME, but it sure as heck will oxidize cast iron if left on long enough! <lol> Or steel too... Look what salted roads in the winter do to cars??????????? Notice I said "nearly". ;-) -- K. Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada >,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,< http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
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> wrote in message
ups.com... > > wrote: > > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina > > layer? > > Well, anything is possible, I guess! I don't think anyone's mentioned > this yet - you can remove all of the old seasoning if you put it > through a self-clean cycle in the oven. It sort of turns the clock > backwards, and you can start the seasoning all over. > > As far as rust - I don't know how you dry it, but I always put mine > back on low heat on the stove for 5-10 minutes (while I finish cleaning > the kitchen). I used to put them in a 250 F oven for 20 minutes, but > I'd invariably forget them for hours. > > June Like I did last night - put my wok in at 8pm and remembered at 2am that it was still in the oven Elaine |
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Far as I can tell, someone wrote:
>Contrary to what some may want to believe modern metalurgy has >made possible far, FAR better quality cast iron than was used in those >antiques... Maybe it's "possible", but so are 150,000 mile tires. And it ain't gonna happen in this lifetime. My old cast iron pans are worth their weight in chopped liver. With red onions, of course... |
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Far as I can tell, someone wrote:
>It won't dissolve ME, but it sure as heck will oxidize cast iron if left >on long enough! <lol> Or steel too... Oh Baby are YOU ever right. Hurricane Ivan left four feet of salt water in my house and garage, and my 1962 MGA went from $16,000 to $1,600 in short order. Not a pretty sight. |
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Katra wrote:
> "Bob (this one)" > wrote: > >>Katra wrote: >> >>> Kenneth > wrote: >>> >>>>'Sorry, but when salt is mixed with water, there is no >>>>hydrochloric acid formed. >>>> >>> >>>True... >>>but salt/water is still nearly as caustic. ;-) >> >>No. It really isn't. Wholly different effects from wholly different >>processes. Salt water won't dissolve you like HCL will. >> > > It won't dissolve ME, but it sure as heck will oxidize cast iron if left > on long enough! <lol> Or steel too... > > Look what salted roads in the winter do to cars??????????? C'mon, Katra. Distilled water will oxidize iron. Humidity in the air will oxidize iron. And steel. Mother's milk (how's that for a loaded example!) will oxidize iron and steel. Be careful what you say about mothers... > Notice I said "nearly". ;-) Yeah, but it's a fair bit of overstatement. Salt water is corrosive (which happens gradually), but not caustic (which comes from a word that means burning). Pastorio |
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No, salt dissolved in water doesn't naturally separate in to Na and Cl
in large amounts. It takes energy (electricity) to get it to do that. If that were true, then we would have lots of people dying from chlorine gas vapors. From this website: http://www.ucc.ie/ucc/depts/chem/dol...m/elem017.html "Chlorine is manufactured industrially as a by-product in the manufacture of Caustic Soda by the electrolysis of brine. 2 NaCl + 2 H2O ==> Cl2 + H2 + 2 NaOH This process was carried out in Kellner-Solvay Cells, using Mercury and Carbon as the electrodes. However, due to the toxicity of mercury, the modern version of the process uses metal electrodes with special membranes in the electrolytic cells." Heidi |
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In article >,
Petey the Wonder Dog > wrote: > Far as I can tell, someone wrote: > >It won't dissolve ME, but it sure as heck will oxidize cast iron if left > >on long enough! <lol> Or steel too... > > Oh Baby are YOU ever right. > > Hurricane Ivan left four feet of salt water in my house and garage, and my > 1962 MGA > went from $16,000 to $1,600 in short order. > > Not a pretty sight. Ugh. You have my condolences... :-( Storm surge is a bitch! -- K. Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada >,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,< http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
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In article >,
"Bob (this one)" > wrote: > Katra wrote: > > > "Bob (this one)" > wrote: > > > >>Katra wrote: > >> > >>> Kenneth > wrote: > >>> > >>>>'Sorry, but when salt is mixed with water, there is no > >>>>hydrochloric acid formed. > >>>> > >>> > >>>True... > >>>but salt/water is still nearly as caustic. ;-) > >> > >>No. It really isn't. Wholly different effects from wholly different > >>processes. Salt water won't dissolve you like HCL will. > >> > > > > It won't dissolve ME, but it sure as heck will oxidize cast iron if left > > on long enough! <lol> Or steel too... > > > > Look what salted roads in the winter do to cars??????????? > > C'mon, Katra. Distilled water will oxidize iron. Humidity in the air > will oxidize iron. And steel. Mother's milk (how's that for a loaded > example!) will oxidize iron and steel. Be careful what you say about > mothers... > > > Notice I said "nearly". ;-) > > Yeah, but it's a fair bit of overstatement. Salt water is corrosive > (which happens gradually), but not caustic (which comes from a word that > means burning). > > Pastorio Ah. Semantics... ;-) You are right about plain water being an oxidizer, but SALTED water will do it faster! If I end up with a gooey cast iron roasting pot (of which I have two of), I'll soak them in water to soften the gunk before I clean them, but I'd never dream of using salt water... Usually, the dog will happily do me the favor of cleaning out the gross if I let her. <lol> Anyone else here let their dogs "pre-wash" pots and pans??? -- K. Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada >,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,< http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
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In article .com>,
"Heidi" > wrote: > No, salt dissolved in water doesn't naturally separate in to Na and Cl > in large amounts. It takes energy (electricity) to get it to do that. > If that were true, then we would have lots of people dying from > chlorine gas vapors. From this website: > > http://www.ucc.ie/ucc/depts/chem/dol...m/elem017.html > > "Chlorine is manufactured industrially as a by-product in the > manufacture of Caustic Soda by the electrolysis of brine. > 2 NaCl + 2 H2O ==> Cl2 + H2 + 2 NaOH > This process was carried out in Kellner-Solvay Cells, using Mercury and > Carbon as the electrodes. However, due to the toxicity of mercury, the > modern version of the process uses metal electrodes with special > membranes in the electrolytic cells." > > Heidi Damn this is fun. ;-) First time I've ever seen a cast iron thread turn into a chemistry lesson! -- K. Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada >,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,< http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
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"Katra" > wrote > Anyone else here let their dogs "pre-wash" pots and pans??? NOOOOOOOOOO!!!! nancy |
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"Nancy Young" > wrote in
: > > "Katra" > wrote > > > Anyone else here let their dogs "pre-wash" pots and pans??? > > NOOOOOOOOOO!!!! > > nancy > > > Ron's Job? -- No Bread Crumbs were hurt in the making of this Meal. Type 2 Diabetic 1AC 7.2, 7.3, 5.5, 5.6 mmol Continuing to be Manitoban |
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Katra wrote: > In article . com>, > "Sheldon" > wrote: > > > Petey the Wonder Dog wrote: > > > Far as I can tell, someone wrote: > > > >it does not seem like it's worth it to remove all the seasoning, > > then > > > >remove all the rust, then reseason > > > > > > Blasphemy! > > > > > > Why not buy some newly made antiques while your at it...? > > > > > > Just wash it thoroughly in very soapy water. Maybe twice. It'll take > > ten minutes. > > > > > > Dry immediately. > > > > > > Coat the entire thing with olive oil and stick it in the oven for two > > hours at 300 or > > > so. > > > > > > Done. Like new. > > > > Really not worth it if it's pock marked from rust acne... if you can't > > bare to part with the olde piece of crap use it for a decorative plant > > saucer. Contrary to what some may want to believe modern metalurgy has > > made possible far, FAR better quality cast iron than was used in those > > antiques... and don't buy any cast iron cookware with machined > > surfaces, those are totally worthless. > > > > Sheldon > > > > Blech. ;-P > > I have yet to find a modern piece of iron pan crap > that is ANY comparison to the beauty and non-stickedness of my > old antique Griswolds! Your cranium. And didja ever see a cast iron bitch... look in the mirror. |
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In article .com>,
"Heidi" > wrote: > No, salt dissolved in water doesn't naturally separate in to Na and Cl > in large amounts. I'm pretty sure NaCl completely disassociates. Check out <http://www.chem.tamu.edu/class/majors/tutorialnotefiles/ksp.htm> <http://home.att.net/~cat6a/electrolysis-I.htm> The strong disassociation is what allows salt water to conduct. > It takes energy (electricity) to get it to do that. > If that were true, then we would have lots of people dying from > chlorine gas vapors. The ions are Cl-, while the gas is Cl_2. I think it's not easy to make the covalent bond in the aqueous solution. But it's been a looooong time since chem. Aaron |
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wrote: > wrote: > > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the seasoning/patina > > layer? > > Well, anything is possible, I guess! I don't think anyone's mentioned > this yet - you can remove all of the old seasoning if you put it > through a self-clean cycle in the oven. Har! Poor student doesn't have a self-cleaning oven. Barely has an oven at all. It's more like a warmer Update: I bit the bullet and bought the 12" lodge logic skillet from amazon. It's only fifteen bucks and I'm part of an amazon prime group, so what the hey, right? The last straw came after I oiled the old pan and threw it in a 350 oven for an hour. When I opened up the oven the pan had many _more_ rust spots than before, in places that had looked perfectly fine before the new round of seasoning. I am not too sad as I only used my old pan for about two months and am just starting to get excited about cast iron. Cannot wait for my new baby to arrive next week. Thanks everyone for the input, Best, Matt F. |
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wrote: > wrote: > > wrote: > > > My question is: could there be rust _underneath_ the > seasoning/patina > > > layer? > > > > Well, anything is possible, I guess! I don't think anyone's > mentioned > > this yet - you can remove all of the old seasoning if you put it > > through a self-clean cycle in the oven. > > Har! > > Poor student doesn't have a self-cleaning oven. Barely has an oven at > all. It's more like a warmer > > Update: I bit the bullet and bought the 12" lodge logic skillet from > amazon. It's only fifteen bucks and I'm part of an amazon prime group, > so what the hey, right? > > The last straw came after I oiled the old pan and threw it in a 350 > oven for an hour. When I opened up the oven the pan had many _more_ > rust spots than before, in places that had looked perfectly fine before > the new round of seasoning. > > I am not too sad as I only used my old pan for about two months and am > just starting to get excited about cast iron. Cannot wait for my new > baby to arrive next week. > > Thanks everyone for the input, Gentlest way to clean cast iron is to bury it in the ground, about a foot deep, for about a year... the natural organisms in the earth will denude it of all organic matter. Interment, especially where there are four distinct seasons with a freezing winter, will also relieve internal stress, making the piece less likely to fracture... this is the true cast iron seasoning, and from whence the term originated... expensive high quality cast iron engine blocks, especially large diesel, used to be seasoned exactly thusly for many years before becoming engines, now there's a high tech method that accomplishes the same thing in mere hours rather than years; "meta-lax". And no, it won't help your constipation. Sheldon |
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In article >,
"Nancy Young" > wrote: > "Katra" > wrote > > > Anyone else here let their dogs "pre-wash" pots and pans??? > > NOOOOOOOOOO!!!! > > nancy > > <giggles> Whyever not??? A good soaking and hot soap and water takes care of any dog spit! -- K. Sprout the Mung Bean to reply... There is no need to change the world. All we have to do is toilet train the world and we'll never have to change it again. -- Swami Beyondanada >,,<Cat's Haven Hobby Farm>,,<Katraatcenturyteldotnet>,,< http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...user id=katra |
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