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Caponatina

For years I went about making caponata, the sweet-and-sour Sicilian eggplant
dish, the way I always thought it should be made (mostly patterned on
Progresso's version in the little tin can, which is what I grew up eating).
Then I went to Palermo and ate many versions, all cleaner tasting, firmer
textured, and less stewed. Caponatina is a more finely chopped version of
caponata, and I prefer it as an appetizer or to spoon onto toast for
bruschetta. Sautéed shellfish is often served on top of caponata in Sicily, but
I find it takes away from the arresting sweet-and-sour taste of the dish, so I
do without it, preferring to garnish the dish with almonds or pistachios. Serve
this as an appetizer or as a first course. I find it a bit too strongly
seasoned to eat as a side dish; it can overpower any other flavors on the
plate.

(Makes 4 servings)

Olive oil
2 medium eggplants (I'd use the beautiful streaky, light purple variety, which
are not at all bitter), cut into small cubes (skin left on)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 large sweet onion, such as Vidalia, cut into small dice
3 tender inner celery stalks, cut into small dice, plus a handful of celery
leaves, chopped
1 ripe pear (see Note), peeled and cut into small dice
1 summer garlic clove, minced
2 round ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cut into small dice (if they are
very juicy, drain them for 10 minutes in a colander)
About 1 heaping tablespoon sugar
About 2 to 3 tablespoons high quality red-wine vinegar
A small palmful of salt-packed capers, soaked and rinsed to remove excess salt
A handful of green olives (French Picholine olives are a good choice), pitted
and roughly chopped
A handful of toasted pine nuts
A small handful of shelled, unsalted pistachios
A dozen basil leaves, lightly chopped

In a large skillet, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil over medium flame. Add
the eggplant, season with salt and black pepper, and sauté until tender but
still holding its shape (you don't want to cook it into a mush). Transfer the
eggplant into a large serving bowl.

Wipe out the skillet. Add a few more tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat
and add the onion and celery, including leaves. Sauté until the vegetables
start to soften, about 4 minutes. Add the pear and sauté a few minutes longer.
Add the sugar and the vinegar and cook until the vinegar has reduced to almost
nothing. Add the capers, green olives, and pine nuts. Add this to the eggplant
and mix well.

Wipe out the skillet again, add a little more olive oil, and sauté the garlic
over medium heat just until it gives off an aroma, less than a minute. Add the
tomato and sauté a few minutes longer, just until it heats through. Season with
salt, and pour into the bowl with the other ingredients. Mix well.

The caponatina should have a pronounced sweet-and-sour taste. If it needs more
vinegar and sugar, heat them together in a small pan until the sugar is
dissolved and the vinegar has reduced, then mix them in. Balance the sweetness
with a touch more salt and black pepper, if necessary. Let sit a few hours,
unrefrigerated, to develop flavor. Right before serving, mix in the basil
leaves and garnish with the pistachios. Serve at room temperature with hot,
toasted Italian bread slices that have been brushed with olive oil. If you need
to make the caponatina a day ahead and refrigerate it, make sure to return it
to room temperature before serving (the cold will mute its flavor).

A Note About Using Pear in Caponata

Pear was not something I ever included before, or was even aware of being used
in any version of caponata in Sicily, until I discovered it as an ingredient in
a caponata recipe in a cookbook I bought in Palermo. So I tried it, and I like
the sweetness and depth it adds to the dish.
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Sheldon
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"Life would be devoid of all meaning were it without tribulation."