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  #1 (permalink)   Report Post  
Serendipity
 
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Default Knives & Fry Pan ?

Over the years, I have collected a vast aray of knives. I bought one
new Whiltshire set complete with self sharpening block but most were
from yard sales. I even managed to accumulate an extra wood block.
Despite the number of knives, there were still the favourites and the
rest just sat there. However, watching the cooking shows had me
hankering for a new set. I decided I wanted full stainless steel
including the handles, no wood or anything to break. I wanted an actual
sharpening steel. I also wanted good quality until I start buying
professional knives. Well yesterday, I actually found a set that met my
wants and it was on sale. The set was Cuisinart and included a parer,
utiklity, slicer, chef, sharpening steel, and shears. I picked up each
of the display pieces several times. They are heavy, certainly heavier
than any of my old knives. They fit my hand well. They have a touch of
decorative brushed stainless on the handles but are all one piece. So,
I bought them When I got home, I had the hard task of culling
through my old knives. I made three piles: toss, ?, keep. The DH came
home and pulled a couple of knives out of the toss pile but otherwise I
have more space in my drawer and both blocks are gone. BTW, I know the
set is not professional as in Henkel, but it sure is a heck of a lot
better than what I had.

Another BTW, the store I bought the knives at also had a Jamie Oliver
deep sided fry pan. I haven't bought it yet. It was stainless steel
including handle, quite heavy, had a thermo plate bottom, and a small
helper handle. Quality wise it looked quite good and the price was very
good. I'm wondering if it would replace my cast iron fry pan? I'm also
wondering if the brand is good quality or not.
  #2 (permalink)   Report Post  
Janet Bostwick
 
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"Serendipity" > wrote in message
...
> Over the years, I have collected a vast aray of knives. I bought one new
> Whiltshire set complete with self sharpening block but most were from yard
> sales. I even managed to accumulate an extra wood block. Despite the
> number of knives, there were still the favourites and the rest just sat
> there. However, watching the cooking shows had me hankering for a new
> set. I decided I wanted full stainless steel including the handles, no
> wood or anything to break. I wanted an actual sharpening steel. I also
> wanted good quality until I start buying professional knives. Well
> yesterday, I actually found a set that met my wants and it was on sale.
> The set was Cuisinart and included a parer, utiklity, slicer, chef,
> sharpening steel, and shears. I picked up each of the display pieces
> several times. They are heavy, certainly heavier than any of my old
> knives. They fit my hand well. They have a touch of decorative brushed
> stainless on the handles but are all one piece. So, I bought them
> When I got home, I had the hard task of culling through my old knives. I
> made three piles: toss, ?, keep. The DH came home and pulled a couple of
> knives out of the toss pile but otherwise I have more space in my drawer
> and both blocks are gone. BTW, I know the set is not professional as in
> Henkel, but it sure is a heck of a lot better than what I had.


Do you have a special knife drawer with spacer slots for each knife?
Otherwise, tossing all the knives in the drawer is going to ruin them.
Janet


  #3 (permalink)   Report Post  
Dee Randall
 
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Default


"Janet Bostwick" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Serendipity" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Over the years, I have collected a vast aray of knives. I bought one new
>> Whiltshire set complete with self sharpening block but most were from
>> yard sales. I even managed to accumulate an extra wood block. Despite
>> the number of knives, there were still the favourites and the rest just
>> sat there. However, watching the cooking shows had me hankering for a
>> new set. I decided I wanted full stainless steel including the handles,
>> no wood or anything to break. I wanted an actual sharpening steel. I
>> also wanted good quality until I start buying professional knives. Well
>> yesterday, I actually found a set that met my wants and it was on sale.
>> The set was Cuisinart and included a parer, utiklity, slicer, chef,
>> sharpening steel, and shears. I picked up each of the display pieces
>> several times. They are heavy, certainly heavier than any of my old
>> knives. They fit my hand well. They have a touch of decorative brushed
>> stainless on the handles but are all one piece. So, I bought them
>> When I got home, I had the hard task of culling through my old knives. I
>> made three piles: toss, ?, keep. The DH came home and pulled a couple of
>> knives out of the toss pile but otherwise I have more space in my drawer
>> and both blocks are gone. BTW, I know the set is not professional as in
>> Henkel, but it sure is a heck of a lot better than what I had.

>
> Do you have a special knife drawer with spacer slots for each knife?
> Otherwise, tossing all the knives in the drawer is going to ruin them.
> Janet

I agree with using a "special knife drawer." I had one of those heavy
magnets to attach knives to on the wall, but I was always in a rush, and
down would fall the knife onto the counter. I also had a wooden block, but
for me, I needed two wooden blocks and they really gather dust!
Dee


  #4 (permalink)   Report Post  
Serendipity
 
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Janet Bostwick wrote:

> "Serendipity" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>Over the years, I have collected a vast aray of knives. I bought one new
>>Whiltshire set complete with self sharpening block but most were from yard
>>sales. I even managed to accumulate an extra wood block. Despite the
>>number of knives, there were still the favourites and the rest just sat
>>there. However, watching the cooking shows had me hankering for a new
>>set. I decided I wanted full stainless steel including the handles, no
>>wood or anything to break. I wanted an actual sharpening steel. I also
>>wanted good quality until I start buying professional knives. Well
>>yesterday, I actually found a set that met my wants and it was on sale.
>>The set was Cuisinart and included a parer, utiklity, slicer, chef,
>>sharpening steel, and shears. I picked up each of the display pieces
>>several times. They are heavy, certainly heavier than any of my old
>>knives. They fit my hand well. They have a touch of decorative brushed
>>stainless on the handles but are all one piece. So, I bought them
>>When I got home, I had the hard task of culling through my old knives. I
>>made three piles: toss, ?, keep. The DH came home and pulled a couple of
>>knives out of the toss pile but otherwise I have more space in my drawer
>>and both blocks are gone. BTW, I know the set is not professional as in
>>Henkel, but it sure is a heck of a lot better than what I had.

>
>
> Do you have a special knife drawer with spacer slots for each knife?
> Otherwise, tossing all the knives in the drawer is going to ruin them.
> Janet
>
>

I don't have a special knife drawer. The new knives are in their block
in separate slots. The old knives are in one compartment of my utensils
drawer. Thanks for the tip. I will check the hardware store later
today for a knife drawer.
  #5 (permalink)   Report Post  
Iraxl Enb
 
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Default

i had made a rudementary knife block that "custom fit"
in my drawer. I cut a piece of 2x4 to the desired
length, so that it fit within one of the compartments
in my drawer, and then I cut kerfs about an inch deep
in them with a table saw, about 1/4 inch apart. I just
slide the knives into the kerfs in the block...

Not very pretty, but functionally complete...

Irax.
http://www.fusionrasoi.com


  #6 (permalink)   Report Post  
salgud
 
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Default

Serenpidity wrote:

I wanted an actual sharpening steel.

I hate to tell you this, but the "sharpening steel" is not a sharpening
steel. This is a very common misconception. The "steel", or ceramic, is
for aligning the blade before use, which makes it cut better. It
doesn't sharpen the knife at all. You need a sharpening stone or knife
sharpener to do that. Check the instructions that came with the knives
to see that they say.
After 35 years of sharpening my knives periodically on a stone (It's
much thinner in the middle that at the ends after 35 years), I bought a
Wusthof ceramic knife sharpener (not like a steel) for $20. I'm still
not sure if I'm getting as good an edge as I got with my stone, but it
is much quicker. Seconds instead if minutes to sharpen my Wustof
knives. Maybe as I get better with the Wusthof sharpener, the knives
will get shaper. If not, I'll have to go back to the steel.
Just wanted to warn you that I've heard people getting frustrated many
times, here and other places, about "sharpening" their knives with a
"steel" or "ceramic steel".

  #7 (permalink)   Report Post  
Serendipity
 
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Default

Rick Rider wrote:

> On 19 May 2005 07:26:23 -0700, "salgud" > wrote:
>
>
>>Serenpidity wrote:
>>
>>I wanted an actual sharpening steel.
>>
>>I hate to tell you this, but the "sharpening steel" is not a sharpening
>>steel. This is a very common misconception. The "steel", or ceramic, is
>>for aligning the blade before use, which makes it cut better. It
>>doesn't sharpen the knife at all. You need a sharpening stone or knife
>>sharpener to do that. Check the instructions that came with the knives
>>to see that they say.
>>After 35 years of sharpening my knives periodically on a stone (It's
>>much thinner in the middle that at the ends after 35 years), I bought a
>>Wusthof ceramic knife sharpener (not like a steel) for $20. I'm still
>>not sure if I'm getting as good an edge as I got with my stone, but it
>>is much quicker. Seconds instead if minutes to sharpen my Wustof
>>knives. Maybe as I get better with the Wusthof sharpener, the knives
>>will get shaper. If not, I'll have to go back to the steel.
>>Just wanted to warn you that I've heard people getting frustrated many
>>times, here and other places, about "sharpening" their knives with a
>>"steel" or "ceramic steel".

>
>
>
> Well, yes, people refer to it as sharpening, but I believe most understand it simply puts
> a fresh edge on the knife. Real sharpening removes some metal to create a newly shaped
> edge, the "sharpening" steel helps the blade retain its edge through use. I use my steel
> each time I use a knife, and sometimes during use. I learned how to use a steel from a
> butcher I worked for. With proper use of a steel, the average home user would expect to
> "sharpen" knives only about every year or so.
>
>
>

Can you tell me how you use the sharpening steel properly? The
instructions said to hold the steel upright on a sturdy surface then
hold the knife at a 20 degree angle and make 5 - 6 quick sweeps. I
tried it on a knife I was tossing but it didn't seem to work.
  #8 (permalink)   Report Post  
salgud
 
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As I said in an earlier post, if it's not sharp, the steel won't
sharpen it!

Serendipity wrote:
> Rick Rider wrote:
>
> > On 19 May 2005 07:26:23 -0700, "salgud"

> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Serenpidity wrote:
> >>
> >>I wanted an actual sharpening steel.
> >>
> >>I hate to tell you this, but the "sharpening steel" is not a

sharpening
> >>steel. This is a very common misconception. The "steel", or

ceramic, is
> >>for aligning the blade before use, which makes it cut better. It
> >>doesn't sharpen the knife at all. You need a sharpening stone or

knife
> >>sharpener to do that. Check the instructions that came with the

knives
> >>to see that they say.
> >>After 35 years of sharpening my knives periodically on a stone

(It's
> >>much thinner in the middle that at the ends after 35 years), I

bought a
> >>Wusthof ceramic knife sharpener (not like a steel) for $20. I'm

still
> >>not sure if I'm getting as good an edge as I got with my stone, but

it
> >>is much quicker. Seconds instead if minutes to sharpen my Wustof
> >>knives. Maybe as I get better with the Wusthof sharpener, the

knives
> >>will get shaper. If not, I'll have to go back to the steel.
> >>Just wanted to warn you that I've heard people getting frustrated

many
> >>times, here and other places, about "sharpening" their knives with

a
> >>"steel" or "ceramic steel".

> >
> >
> >
> > Well, yes, people refer to it as sharpening, but I believe most

understand it simply puts
> > a fresh edge on the knife. Real sharpening removes some metal to

create a newly shaped
> > edge, the "sharpening" steel helps the blade retain its edge

through use. I use my steel
> > each time I use a knife, and sometimes during use. I learned how

to use a steel from a
> > butcher I worked for. With proper use of a steel, the average

home user would expect to
> > "sharpen" knives only about every year or so.
> >
> >
> >

> Can you tell me how you use the sharpening steel properly? The
> instructions said to hold the steel upright on a sturdy surface then
> hold the knife at a 20 degree angle and make 5 - 6 quick sweeps. I
> tried it on a knife I was tossing but it didn't seem to work.


  #9 (permalink)   Report Post  
Bob Myers
 
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Default


"Serendipity" > wrote in message
...
> Can you tell me how you use the sharpening steel properly? The
> instructions said to hold the steel upright on a sturdy surface then
> hold the knife at a 20 degree angle and make 5 - 6 quick sweeps. I
> tried it on a knife I was tossing but it didn't seem to work.


That's pretty close, but again, realize that the "steel" (which
these days may be ceramic) isn't a "sharpening" tool (it's not going
to remove any metal to create a sharp edge). This process only
works if there's already a sharp edge there, and it's just been
"bent over" through use (which is normal, and that's what
the steel is supposed to correct). So you have to get the knife
sharpened first (and unless you really know what you're doing
here, have a pro do it), and THEN keep the edge in shape with
the steel each and every time you use it.

There are various ways you can hold the steel and the knife and
manipulate the one against the other; holding the steel upright
with the tip resting on a suitable surface (like a cutting board)
seems to work pretty well for most who are new to this. The
important thing is to pass the knife edge over the steel in a way
that looks like you're trying to shave thin strips off the steel
itself - imaging that the steel is a piece of wood, and you're trying
to whittle long, thin shavings. You also want to make sure that
BOTH sides of the knife get equal steel time - remember, the
idea is to take an edge that's bent over (and which way it's bent,
who knows?) and straighten it up again. Just 5-6 sweeps may
not be sufficient to do this with a knife that's really in need of
attention, by the way.

Bob M.


  #10 (permalink)   Report Post  
Serendipity
 
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salgud wrote:

> As I said in an earlier post, if it's not sharp, the steel won't
> sharpen it!


Ok, thqat part I get but could you pretty please tell me how to use the
sharpening steel? I would really appreciate it. TIA



  #11 (permalink)   Report Post  
salgud
 
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Default

Couldn't describe it any better than Bob. It might help if you Googled
for it to see if you can find a video online showing how to do it. It's
hard to explain, easy to demonstrate. There used to be a demo on
foodtv, if I remember right.

Bob Myers wrote:
> "Serendipity" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Can you tell me how you use the sharpening steel properly? The
> > instructions said to hold the steel upright on a sturdy surface

then
> > hold the knife at a 20 degree angle and make 5 - 6 quick sweeps. I
> > tried it on a knife I was tossing but it didn't seem to work.

>
> That's pretty close, but again, realize that the "steel" (which
> these days may be ceramic) isn't a "sharpening" tool (it's not going
> to remove any metal to create a sharp edge). This process only
> works if there's already a sharp edge there, and it's just been
> "bent over" through use (which is normal, and that's what
> the steel is supposed to correct). So you have to get the knife
> sharpened first (and unless you really know what you're doing
> here, have a pro do it), and THEN keep the edge in shape with
> the steel each and every time you use it.
>
> There are various ways you can hold the steel and the knife and
> manipulate the one against the other; holding the steel upright
> with the tip resting on a suitable surface (like a cutting board)
> seems to work pretty well for most who are new to this. The
> important thing is to pass the knife edge over the steel in a way
> that looks like you're trying to shave thin strips off the steel
> itself - imaging that the steel is a piece of wood, and you're trying
> to whittle long, thin shavings. You also want to make sure that
> BOTH sides of the knife get equal steel time - remember, the
> idea is to take an edge that's bent over (and which way it's bent,
> who knows?) and straighten it up again. Just 5-6 sweeps may
> not be sufficient to do this with a knife that's really in need of
> attention, by the way.
>
> Bob M.


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