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Vivid tales of ducks in peril spur city panel to urge delicacy's ban


By Gary Washburn
Tribune staff reporter

October 25, 2005, 9:04 PM CDT

"After hearing a Hollywood actress compare the production of a delicacy made
from the livers of geese and ducks to abuses at a notorious Iraqi prison, a
City Council committee on Tuesday advanced a measure that would make Chicago
a foie gras-free zone.

Only three farms in the U.S. produce foie gras, none of them in Illinois.
And Ald. Joe Moore (49th), sponsor of the measure to ban its sale,
acknowledged that "no more than a dozen or so" restaurants here probably
have it on their menus.

But "laws are reflections of our values and morals," he asserted.

Moore hailed preliminary approval of the prohibition by the council's Health
Committee, saying it will result in "fewer ducks and geese being tortured to
create this product." And he said a ban here would "send a clear message" to
other cities and states that may decide to consider similar measures.

The committee heard a New York veterinarian and activist describe how
feeding pipes are "jammed down the esophaguses" of terrified birds that are
force-fed three times a day to make their livers 10 times normal size to
produce foie gras.

And committee members viewed a graphic video of bloodied birds that had
undergone the process.

"If I sound a little out of breath, I am always overwhelmed listening to
stories of abuse and torture," said actress and animal-rights advocate
Loretta Swit, who testified in support of the ban.

The former star of the "M*A*S*H" television series contended that there are
ties between what happened at Iraq's Abu Ghraib prison, where inmates were
abused by U.S. soldiers, and what happens to ducks and geese whose livers
are harvested for foie gras.

"Violence begets violence," she said. "Brutality begets brutality."

But Didier Durand, chef and owner at Cyrano's Bistrot, 546 N. Wells St.,
insisted that "there is no torture" in the production of the delicacy. And
he told the skeptical aldermen that it is healthy to eat. Durand attributed
low cholesterol levels and a low incidence of heart attacks in his native
region of France to consumption of foie gras, which he said he sells to
about 30 customers a week.

Cyrano's charges $15 for three-ounce servings.

Carrie Nahabedian, owner of Naha, 500 N. Clark St., predicted that a Chicago
ban simply would push foie gras lovers to suburban restaurants, and she said
that a prohibition could send the council "down a slippery slope" leading to
regulation of other food.

"It does set precedents, and it is important outside the city of Chicago,"
said Marcus Henley of Ferndale, N.Y.'s Hudson Valley Foie Gras & Duck
Products.

Henley gave committee members packets with what he said was scientific
evidence that birds are not abused in foie gras production, and he invited
an inspection.

"If there is doubt remaining, visit the farm," he urged.

But the aldermen were unmoved, and the ban proposal now goes to the full
council for a vote next week.

In other City Hall action, the council's Buildings Committee advanced an
ordinance designed to crack down on owners of slum buildings despite fears
by some aldermen that the measure goes too far.

In some cases, a city order could clear the way for the seizure of a
dilapidated apartment building or home whose owner fails to correct
problems."

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