Hi All

I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
partially oxidized to boot.

Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.

Thanks in advance.

Rocky

Rocky wrote:
> Hi All
>
> I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
> years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
> partially oxidized to boot.
>
> Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
> strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Rocky


Trisodium phosphate, if you can find it. (Red Devil TSP™ is not
trisodium phosphate anymore.) Ammonia would cut it if you can stand the
smell. The best is lye or oven cleaner, but that will peel most paints.

Best regards,
Bob

In article id>,
Rocky > wrote:

> Hi All
>
> I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
> years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
> partially oxidized to boot.
>
> Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
> strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Rocky

Sheldon will say Ammonia but I've not tried that yet.
I really don't care for the odor personally.

I've used easy off oven cleaner to take heavy (polymerized) grease
deposits off of things. Works and IMHO the fumes are easier to deal
with, but still make darned sure you have GOOD ventilation in the area!
Run a fan or something and open windows!

Both involve bad fumes tho' so wait and see what others say first. :-)
Someone else might have a better suggestion.
--
Om.

"My mother never saw the irony in calling me a son-of-a-bitch." -Jack Nicholson

In article >,
zxcvbob > wrote:

> Rocky wrote:
> > Hi All
> >
> > I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
> > years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
> > partially oxidized to boot.
> >
> > Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
> > strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Rocky
>
>
> Trisodium phosphate, if you can find it. (Red Devil TSP� is not
> trisodium phosphate anymore.) Ammonia would cut it if you can stand the
> smell. The best is lye or oven cleaner, but that will peel most paints.
>
> Best regards,
> Bob

I bought real TSP at Lowe's in the paint section.
It's used to clean the walls prior to painting. Since we have ongoing
remodeling going, I have a box on hand so just looked at it.

I've never tried it for cleaning old grease off of walls. :-)

I try to move the stove out at least a couple of times per year to clean
the walls and floor beside and under it. That keeps it from building up
too badly.
--
Om.

"My mother never saw the irony in calling me a son-of-a-bitch." -Jack Nicholson

"Rocky" > wrote in message
nvalid...
> Hi All
>
> I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
> years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
> partially oxidized to boot.
>
> Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
> strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Rocky

Simple Green works wonders and it's not toxic. You don't even have to wear
gloves. I cleaned a kitchen with it and we took the screen out of the
exhaust fan and tossed it in the sink. It was *solid* with grease. It
soaked overnight and was sparkling clean. You'll find it in the automotive
department.

Ms P

A hand held steemer. I have one and it works wonders.
Our house used to be a rental, no one cleaned behind the stove in 10 yrs or
more ... worked like a charm.


"Rocky" > wrote in message
nvalid...
> Hi All
>
> I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
> years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
> partially oxidized to boot.
>
> Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
> strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Rocky

OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:
> In article id>,
> Rocky > wrote:
>
> > Hi All
> >
> > I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
> > years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
> > partially oxidized to boot.
> >
> > Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
> > strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Rocky
>
> Sheldon will say Ammonia but I've not tried that yet.

How do you know what I will say... and especially since you haven't
tried what you claim I will say... what's wrong with you?!?!?

I wouldn't suggest ammonia in a open living space.

I haven't a clue what kind of surfaces need cleaning, until I know
precisely I have no opinion. I cleaned the windows in my office today,
used Windex commercial formula, contains vinegar... works very well,
but that's glass, don't really know what I'd suggest using to clean
grease from a painted dry wall... may need in the end to replace the
sheet rock, and then cover it with something more durable/washable than
wall paint... perhaps ceramic tile, brick, metal...

Sheldon

In article . com>,
"Sheldon" > wrote:

> OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:
> > In article id>,
> > Rocky > wrote:
> >
> > > Hi All
> > >
> > > I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
> > > years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
> > > partially oxidized to boot.
> > >
> > > Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
> > > strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance.
> > >
> > > Rocky
> >
> > Sheldon will say Ammonia but I've not tried that yet.
>
> How do you know what I will say... and especially since you haven't
> tried what you claim I will say... what's wrong with you?!?!?

It's what you have suggested in the past? :-)

>
> I wouldn't suggest ammonia in a open living space.

Ok, sorry!
"Household" ammonia IS used a lot for cleaning, especially floors and if
you dilute it well, it's ok.

Windex Glass cleaner is primarily diluted ammonia and I DO use that to
clean my glass top stove, and I also use it on the electric grill all
the time.

>
> I haven't a clue what kind of surfaces need cleaning, until I know
> precisely I have no opinion. I cleaned the windows in my office today,
> used Windex commercial formula, contains vinegar... works very well,
> but that's glass, don't really know what I'd suggest using to clean
> grease from a painted dry wall... may need in the end to replace the
> sheet rock, and then cover it with something more durable/washable than
> wall paint... perhaps ceramic tile, brick, metal...
>
> Sheldon

It is my intention to cover all of the sheetrock in my kitchen with
ceramic tile! The counter top too.

I can hardly wait.

Cheers!

>
--
Om.

"My mother never saw the irony in calling me a son-of-a-bitch." -Jack Nicholson

On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:40:20 -0600, zxcvbob wrote:

> Ammonia would cut it if you can stand the smell.

I have no idea what oxidized grease is.... but it stands to reason
that it must be dehydrated, so amonia/water is a good suggestion.
FAIC, the smell of amonia isn't very bad.

On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:57:51 -0600, OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:

> I try to move the stove out at least a couple of times per year to clean
> the walls and floor beside and under it. That keeps it from building up
> too badly.

Oh, man... you're good. Come to my house!

In article >,
sf > wrote:

> On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:57:51 -0600, OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:
>
> > I try to move the stove out at least a couple of times per year to clean
> > the walls and floor beside and under it. That keeps it from building up
> > too badly.
>
> Oh, man... you're good. Come to my house!
>
>

Hee! :-)
The buildup grosses me out... and I have a serious paranoia about fire
hazards! Just ask my dad.

I've even thrown away _all_ the socket expanders and replaced them with
power strips! Those other things are just not allowed here!

Cheers!
--
Om.

"My mother never saw the irony in calling me a son-of-a-bitch." -Jack Nicholson

On Wed, 02 Nov 2005 00:50:13 -0600, OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:

> In article >,
> sf > wrote:
>
> > On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:57:51 -0600, OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:
> >
> > > I try to move the stove out at least a couple of times per year to clean
> > > the walls and floor beside and under it. That keeps it from building up
> > > too badly.
> >
> > Oh, man... you're good. Come to my house!
> >
> >
>
> Hee! :-)
> The buildup grosses me out... and I have a serious paranoia about fire
> hazards! Just ask my dad.
>
> I've even thrown away _all_ the socket expanders and replaced them with
> power strips! Those other things are just not allowed here!
>
I think you're living with false assumptions unless you've also
upgraded your interior wiring.

LOL
Just adding fuel to the fire

In article id>,
lid says...
>
> Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
> strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>

Others have mentioned ammonia and caustic soda.

In the line of solvents, you can go to isopropanol which is plastic-safe
and will take off a limited amount of grease.

If you need more heavy duty than that, there is the stuff spraypainters
use to clean their equipment - here in NZ it's called 2way thinner.
That stuff will take off *everything*, but it will also attack the
surface of many plastics, it will soften paint ... I've used it to clean
some fluorescent light fittings that were under my kitchen ceiling and
it works a treat. Some cocktail of acetone, toluene and xylene for
starters, and I have no idea what else ... huh, I've even managed to
revive a rock hard gluebrush in my wood workshop with that stuff.

-P.

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

"Rocky" > wrote in message
nvalid...
> Hi All
>
> I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
> years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
> partially oxidized to boot.
>
> Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
> strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.
>
> Thanks in advance.

Formula 409 was used with great success when a neighbour needed to clean his
range hood prior to a military housing inspection. He removed it, took it
outside, sprayed it with Formula 409 which took off all the grease & the
paint as well. He then spray painted it and re-hung it. Passed inspection.

Gabby

On Wed, 2 Nov 2005 06:58:46 -0400, "Gabby" > wrote:

>> I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
>> years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
>> partially oxidized to boot.

Paint stores carry a product named TSP. You can find it al WalMart
also.

On Wed, 2 Nov 2005 06:58:46 -0400, "Gabby" > wrote:

>
>"Rocky" > wrote in message
>news:011120052224279159%nydhoggatcomcastnet@host. invalid...
>> Hi All
>>
>> I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
>> years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
>> partially oxidized to boot.
>>
>> Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
>> strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>
>Formula 409 was used with great success when a neighbour needed to clean his
>range hood prior to a military housing inspection. He removed it, took it
>outside, sprayed it with Formula 409 which took off all the grease & the
>paint as well. He then spray painted it and re-hung it. Passed inspection.
>
>Gabby

The brand now has multiple varieties. I had a bottle of one that was
labeled to remove grease and so forth, but when I finished it off I
couldn't find the same one in local stores.

It's not listed here, so I guess they don't make it anymore, but I see
they have a "professional" version of a degreaser. Maybe that's what
your neighbor used.
http://www.formula409.com/409_products.html

Sue(tm)
Lead me not into temptation... I can find it myself!

Kat wrote:
> A hand held steemer. I have one and it works wonders.
> Our house used to be a rental, no one cleaned behind the stove in 10 yrs or
> more ... worked like a charm.

I'll second the hand held steamer! I have one and just love it. It
will clean just about any mess you can imagine. I have the Bissel Steam
Mop for floors as well. Both steamers are excellent, easy to use, and
help eliminate toxic chemical cleaners from your home..

I'd try Simple Green, at full strength it'll remove tar and pitch from
my car without damaging the paint. Greased Lightening is another good
grime removing product, wear gloves though.

Jessica

"~patches~" > wrote in message
...
> Kat wrote:
>> A hand held steemer. I have one and it works wonders.
>> Our house used to be a rental, no one cleaned behind the stove in 10 yrs
>> or more ... worked like a charm.
>
> I'll second the hand held steamer! I have one and just love it. It will
> clean just about any mess you can imagine. I have the Bissel Steam Mop
> for floors as well. Both steamers are excellent, easy to use, and help
> eliminate toxic chemical cleaners from your home..

I'm thinking about the Bissel, but can you use it on wood floors? I think
that the steem would damage the wood, but maybe not if it is quick to dry?
We ripped up all of our carpet and found amazing wood floors under, but w/ 2
dogs and 2 kids, wood floors can be a lot of work.

"Rocky" > wrote in message
nvalid...
> Hi All
>
> I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
> years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
> partially oxidized to boot.
>
> Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
> strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.

When we moved into our house, it was clear that some areas of the kitchen
hadn't been cleaned in years and there was a buildup of grease and dust on
top of the fridge and on the side of the range between it and the pullout
cabinet next to it. Floor, too.

I used baking soda with a very small bit of water and a lot of elbow grease.
The gunk came up amazingly well. I would try that before using all that
caustic nasty stuff. Can't hurt.

sf wrote:

> On Wed, 02 Nov 2005 00:50:13 -0600, OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:
>
>
>> In article >,
>> sf > wrote:
>>
>> > On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:57:51 -0600, OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:
>> >
>> > > I try to move the stove out at least a couple of times per year to clean
>> > > the walls and floor beside and under it. That keeps it from building up
>> > > too badly.
>> >
>> > Oh, man... you're good. Come to my house!
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Hee! :-)
>> The buildup grosses me out... and I have a serious paranoia about fire
>> hazards! Just ask my dad.
>>
>> I've even thrown away _all_ the socket expanders and replaced them with
>> power strips! Those other things are just not allowed here!
>>
>
> I think you're living with false assumptions unless you've also
> upgraded your interior wiring.
>
> LOL
> Just adding fuel to the fire
>
I agree but only if the interior wiring is insufficient or not up to
code. Our wiring was upgraded in the additions to the main what used to
be a summer cottage so the kitchen is all new wiring. The sockets are
split recepticles which means I can operate a toaster in the top plug
and deep fryer in the bottom plug without a problem. The kitchen is
rather small with very little wall space aside of the L. The long L
houses the cabinets, sinks, dishwasher, fridge, & stove. Despite the
lack of wall space there are two recepticles on each arm of the L and a
recepticle on each of the other walls. Code here says there must be a
recepticle every 8 feet. Whoever did the rewiring stuck to code We
have an electrician coming in to re-wire the old main house just to be
on the safe side.

In article >,
sf > wrote:

> On Wed, 02 Nov 2005 00:50:13 -0600, OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:
>
> > In article >,
> > sf > wrote:
> >
> > > On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:57:51 -0600, OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:
> > >
> > > > I try to move the stove out at least a couple of times per year to
> > > > clean
> > > > the walls and floor beside and under it. That keeps it from building
> > > > up
> > > > too badly.
> > >
> > > Oh, man... you're good. Come to my house!
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Hee! :-)
> > The buildup grosses me out... and I have a serious paranoia about fire
> > hazards! Just ask my dad.
> >
> > I've even thrown away _all_ the socket expanders and replaced them with
> > power strips! Those other things are just not allowed here!
> >
> I think you're living with false assumptions unless you've also
> upgraded your interior wiring.
>
> LOL
> Just adding fuel to the fire
>

I'm just going by the fire safety chief at work and recommendations from
the fire dept. All say that socket expanders are NOT SAFE. Power strips
have an internal breaker.

Yes, I may be paranoid, but statistics can be very, very frightening and
house fires are very unforgiving. I have too many pets. No way in hell I
could gather up all the cats and my pet bird and make it out in time. :-(
--
Om.

"My mother never saw the irony in calling me a son-of-a-bitch." -Jack Nicholson

I've ordered my new kitchen and should get it in about 6 weeks. Lovely
washed oak finish, lots of pot drawers, formica chop block finish for
the
sink island. REAL Chopping block counter for the other counter and
quartz
for the baking peninsula. I can't wait!

MoM

PS. Had to post this online. My newserver is screwing up again and I
don't know what's wrong.

On Wed, 02 Nov 2005 14:45:44 GMT, "Chris" >
wrote:

>"Rocky" > wrote in message
>news:011120052224279159%nydhoggatcomcastnet@host. invalid...
>> Hi All
>>
>> I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
>> years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
>> partially oxidized to boot.
>>
>> Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
>> strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.
>
>When we moved into our house, it was clear that some areas of the kitchen
>hadn't been cleaned in years and there was a buildup of grease and dust on
>top of the fridge and on the side of the range between it and the pullout
>cabinet next to it. Floor, too.


I had the same problem. Disgusting. I used razor blades for the
first kitchen cleaning!

Sue(tm)
Lead me not into temptation... I can find it myself!

Kat wrote:

> "~patches~" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>Kat wrote:
>>
>>>A hand held steemer. I have one and it works wonders.
>>>Our house used to be a rental, no one cleaned behind the stove in 10 yrs
>>>or more ... worked like a charm.
>>
>>I'll second the hand held steamer! I have one and just love it. It will
>>clean just about any mess you can imagine. I have the Bissel Steam Mop
>>for floors as well. Both steamers are excellent, easy to use, and help
>>eliminate toxic chemical cleaners from your home..
>
>
> I'm thinking about the Bissel, but can you use it on wood floors? I think
> that the steem would damage the wood, but maybe not if it is quick to dry?
> We ripped up all of our carpet and found amazing wood floors under, but w/ 2
> dogs and 2 kids, wood floors can be a lot of work.
>
>
I'm hoping you can use it on wood floors. We are planning on removing
the carpet in our great room and replacing it with either wood or tile.
If we choose wood we will have a urethane finish on it so from
previous experience the steam shouldn't bother it. I used to wash the
urethane finished wood floors in a previous house with water & murphy's
oil soap. The Bissell steamer works wonders on vinyl floor though!

On Wed, 02 Nov 2005 04:06:08 GMT, "Kat" > wrote:

>A hand held steemer. I have one and it works wonders.
>Our house used to be a rental, no one cleaned behind the stove in 10 yrs or
>more ... worked like a charm.

What's there to clean behind the stove? The only things I've ever
found are utensils that drop behind it (fortunately that won't happen
with my new stove, Darth) and some plaster dust from a previous
owner's work. Otherwise it seems pretty dry and clean.

I don't plan on moving my stove to clean behind it unless necessary
for renovations etc.

Sue(tm)
Lead me not into temptation... I can find it myself!

Curly Sue > wrote in message
...
> On Wed, 02 Nov 2005 04:06:08 GMT, "Kat" > wrote:
> > A hand held steemer. I have one and it works wonders.
> > Our house used to be a rental, no one cleaned behind the
> > stove in 10 yrs or more ... worked like a charm.
> >
> What's there to clean behind the stove? The only things I've
> ever found are utensils that drop behind it [..] and some plaster
> dust from a previous owner's work. Otherwise it seems
> pretty dry and clean.

When we first moved in to Castle Ranger, we went through and cleaned the
entire house starting in the kitchen. The combo stove/oven was the first
item we deemed a necessary removal-replacement. The people that owned
the home prior were not kind to that appliance, let alone worried about
cleanliness. There was an accumulation of grease, sauces and other
less-identifiable goops all over the walls and flooring. We rented a
steamcleaner and bought stock in Viva and TSP. It took most of the day
cleaning that particular area to see the floor and walls again.

The Ranger

> wrote

> I've ordered my new kitchen and should get it in about 6 weeks. Lovely
> washed oak finish, lots of pot drawers, formica chop block finish for
> the
> sink island. REAL Chopping block counter for the other counter and
> quartz
> for the baking peninsula. I can't wait!

That sounds great! Put a lot of thought into it, of course,
it's going to be perfect. Take before and after pictures?
I'd love to see them.

nancy

Kat wrote:
> "~patches~" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Kat wrote:
> >> A hand held steemer. I have one and it works wonders.
> >> Our house used to be a rental, no one cleaned behind the stove in 10 yrs
> >> or more ... worked like a charm.
> >
> > I'll second the hand held steamer! I have one and just love it. It will
> > clean just about any mess you can imagine. I have the Bissel Steam Mop
> > for floors as well. Both steamers are excellent, easy to use, and help
> > eliminate toxic chemical cleaners from your home..
>
> I'm thinking about the Bissel, but can you use it on wood floors? I think
> that the steem would damage the wood, but maybe not if it is quick to dry?

Steam will destroy real wood floors, in fact real wood floors should
never be wet mopped... NEVER use any water whatsoever. To clean a
hardwood floor vacuum and dust mop, then use one of the hardwood floor
maintenance systems, Bonkemi has a good one, I use it all the time,
it's effortless, takes ten minutes an average sized room, and my floors
look better than new. No floor wax either, just use the maintenance
system, that's all you need. Btw, the cheapest place to buy the
Bonkemi maintenance products is from their website... I get the
concentrates and mix em myself, even cheaper... why pay to ship all
that water and extra containers.

> We ripped up all of our carpet and found amazing wood floors under, but w/ 2
> dogs and 2 kids, wood floors can be a lot of work.

No work whatsoever, not if you follow recommendations above and if
initially they're properly finished for the kind of traffic they'll
receive... best done by a skilled professional with professional
equipment, not some putz with a rental sander. The guy who did my new
kitchen floor is an expert (his father did all the other hardwood
floors in this house but is now retired. I was amazed at all the
tricks he employed, and all the unique tools and equipment... I learned
(and was shocked to discover) that a professional sander/buffer costs
some $50,000.00.... floats on an air cushion like a hovercraft, all
computerized, with high precision laser depth/leveling controls, and
sucks up virtually all the dust, but screams like a jet engine, gotta
employ special ear protection. After witnessing how effortless and
perfect my job turned out I would never consider doing it myself, no
putz with a rental sander either. Hunt around until you find someone
who really knows what they're doing, check credentials and refernces.
A first class finishing job should cost about $3.50 a square foot, and
that includes repairs, like filling in splits, nail holes frm tackless
carpeting, and drilled holes from abandoned phone and cable wire, and
buffing out and filling in burns (cigarette burns are common, as are
ember burns in front of fireplaces) ... a professional knows how to do
repairs so you can never find those blemishes again.

Remember, never wash a wood floor, definitely no steam.

Of course if you're a slob no kind of flooring will last long... I
would think if mud, sand, and dreck is constantly tracked in carpet
will hold up the least... have you considered black top? hehe

Sheldon

In article id>, Rocky
> wrote:

> Hi All
>
> I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
> years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
> partially oxidized to boot.
>
> Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
> strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Rocky


Thanks for all the replies!

I'll be trying "Simple Green" first, then perhaps "TSP". The steam
cleaner sounds promissing, too.

I will be putting up new easy clean surfaces when I'm done!

Thanks again,

Rocky

Use an over cleaner, Champion Sprayon 5177, used the stuff for over 20
years.